jcorley

DragonUSA just sent me this: Greetings! Dragon Models USA is please to announce that it has been appointed the exclusive distributor for Bronco Models for the United States of America. Bronco Models is a manufacturer based in China that specializes in high quality military subject plastic model kits. Their Armor, Aircraft, Ship and Accessories kits encompass a variety of interesting and unique subjects in a selection of popular scales. Both of these kits are on the list with a retail that'll be somewhere in the $50 range, so buy it from a local hobby shop owner while you still have a local hobby shop! Otherwise, you'll have to get your paint and glue from eBay, too, and wait to finish the model... perhaps even missing the show you wanted to take it to.

The wavy lower boundary seemed to disappear in about 1978 or so. The early tomcats sometimes had a shape wavy line as if they were painted the old fashioned way with a rubber mat to cover the white/gray.

The only problem is that Bronco has lost their importer and, AFAIK, nobody else is lined up.

Don't worry. It'll never sell and they'll abandon the RA market. Actually, Dragon has discovered there is quite a good market for Artillery. Rumor has it they are on Pelileu looking at a 200mm IJA field gun emplacement. I, for one, would love to see a serious of the US Rail Guns to complement the German ones. A 14/45 railway gun in France in WW1... I'd love it!

David, It's all in the lighting. It looks to me like many of the models you are talking about are shot: inside, under flourescent bulbs, in flashless conditions, with a longer exposure. The ABSOLUTE best way to photograph models is under natural sunlight, as most photos of the prototypes were taken outdoors under natural lighting. You don't have to go outside, in front of a large window will work (if you can run the cat out of the sunny spot!) Use your smallest aperture f-stop (f/22, f/16 or such), fastest practical shutter speed (1/120th or so), low film number (ASO25 or ASO100 if real film) and natural light.

Ralph, It's really sad to see the names of old shops I used to support (even after I bought AAA) that are now gone forever. In this economy it's really tough to keep the doors open. All too often the guys can get things online from Asia and pay the shipping for about what I have to spend wholes to get it at the shop. When all of the hobby shop owners decide it's time to retire, what are they gonna do for paint and glue?

Regular Aircraft category. A diorama is supposed to tell a story and have figures. Primary (flight) crew are allowed in a regular category. In this case, an aircraft with a motorized prop isn't much of a story. Now, if you include the pilot, a few mechs and some gear, plus groundwork on a rough field setting then it starts to become a diorama. From this year's rules: 9. BASES/DIORAMAS. Bases will be allowed in all categories and will not be considered in the judging except in the Diorama classes. A base may be a piece of undecorated wood, plastic or glass or it may simulate the natural surface on which the prototype would be found; however, nothing other than that surface may be used. Aircraft and military vehicles may rest on simulated ground or paving, and aircraft that need beaching gear or dollies may be so equipped. Ships may be displayed in water (no drydocks). The base must not be the predominant feature of the entry and must be of a size proportionate to the model. The Contest Chairman and Judges reserve the right to exclude oversize bases. The model may include primary crew figures. The addition of any other figures or equipment outside or not attached to, the model (e.g., support equipment, shell splashes, or buildings) will make the model a Diorama, which must then be entered in the proper Diorama category. Dioramas are judged not only on the technical merit of their construction but also on the strength of the theme or story they present, so that if two dioramas were technically equal the one having the stronger theme or story would win. A previous national contest winner may be used as part of a diorama as long as it not the primary focus of the diorama. HTH, James

Dave, There used to be a 72 & 48 vacuform available. Welsh Models I think. Hannants shows a resin 1/72 402 http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/GREM7204 There's also a desktop wood model that's somewhere around 1/32

No, and it was a repeat, too! It was so good I watched it again.

It's Raptor 03. It is NOT in an operational paint job. This paint looks to be a standard paint, not eh special paint they apply here at the factory. The colors that work well on the 5 or so kits I've seen here in our club are all Alclad II #103 mixed with either of the Mod Eagle colors plus a light gray similar to Light Gull Gray on the leading edges.

That sure looks great. Now if I can only get the gumption to work in my 1/100 Tamiya F! Love those F model BUFFs.

There's a guy in Miami that makes both the markings and the conversion set. I can't remember his name but maybe Gil can. Great guy, he's an Argie which explains his focus.

Nick, Have a look at these images of her original construction: http://www.papermodelers.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=570 Also tell your friend that the aircraft in the NASM is not in the historic flight configuration. And the Llindbergh site has lots of period photos where these 'dump tubes' (for lack of a better term) are not visible www.charleslindbergh.com

neat work Ed. did you ever enter any of these in the old model photo category?

That should make the model a 2009.5 Gen 3 sold only in Japan... dang it! Maybe the exterior lines arent that different from my straight 2009. The biggest exterior change was the raised area for the nose emblem, might be correctable. Who knows at this point. Could you email me a scan of the instructions? I'd like to know before I order it. jdcorley@bellsouth.net

Jay, 6th year? Not quite. The Prius was introduced in Japan in 1999. Gen 1 cars were model years 97-03, Gen2 04-09, Gen3 10-? They weren't even introduced in the USA 6 years ago. The first year for US imports was the 01, with almost all of them going to California. I own a wrecked 05 Prius with 88K, thanks to a U-turning Nigerian Taxi Driver. I managed to avoid all the online scams so they sent a representative to give me personal attention. While we wait for the litigation to percolate (they offered me 10,500 for a car with 8,500 in damage and their own book value showed 16K - I declined) I bought a 09 Prius. Looked at the Gen3 10s, but I absolutely hate the changes they introduced. Apparently so do a bunch of Gen2 owners based on the forums I read. All that being said, I can't wait to get this one!! It looks like a Gen3 body. Does the interior have that funky bridge going from the center console to the dash?

Guys, I was asked a few questions a few days ago by a reporter. Here is the article: http://www.examiner.com/examiner/x-51466-M...Model-Expo-2010 Maybe this will get a few more through the door.

Gil, I have a sneaky feeling you & I would be charter members!

Ed, It looks to me that you simply posed the model in front of the posters that were all over my room! How did you get in?!?! I guess that mostly because the entire model is never seen. The first shot shows mot of the kit, except for the part which went onto the display stand. A photog who knows enough to step down the f-stop to a pinhole (f/22 or similar) knows the field of focus will be very deep and not much will be lost. #2 is the only one with significant focus issues and the length of the model is the culprit IMO.

That's not what I said at all, but we need the guys with experience to step up not slink away. Besides, I think I remember seeing you judge before! Scoundrel!!

Guys, the biggest area where we will need volunteers is the Judging. And we need EXPERIENCED judges to volunteer. Gil, I'm counting on you!

WooHoo!! Nope, no 'official' hotel. If you want to stay as cheap as possible, there is the Days Inn at exit 262 which are about $35/night... but avoid the Scottish Inn next door, their rates are hourly. The map is fixed now, btw. Also, hit the refresh. I noticed my old file was still loading... the new poster has the correct date.

My experience has been that the Mr Thinner (of various names) works better with Mr Color than the cheaper thinners I can buy in bulk. Also, the 'stringy mess' comes from the thinner drying as the mix exits the nozzle of the brush. The physics is pretty simple, but basically it forms a long polymer thread and looks like 'cotton candy' - I have never had to thin it to 80/20, 50/50 is about as far as I've ever gone. It's also entirely dependant on the air source and atmospherics. I have found if you dail the flow way back and paint at a very close range to the model, most of the cotton candy never gets a chance to form.

We found out a few weeks ago that the lady handling our contract had retired. The new manager had called and was asking about what time we needed to be set up on Friday afternnon. It appears the Cobb County Civic Center has a county function that morning and our contract was never written to include the Friday opening of the show. We will be contacting all the vendors and refunding the portion of their table costs to reflect a one-day show. Last year our tables were $25 for the day, so there will be a $10/day reduction for those who have already paid. We do apologize for the ommission on our part and hope it doesn't impact anybody's travel plans too negatively. Thank you, James Corley IPMS Marietta

Ken, Dunno what happened to the link, but here it is: http://ipmsmetroatlanta.org/rules.pdf Its a big file, but the philosophy and criteria are all there James