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Posts posted by BobHolmes

  1. Thank you Gil and others. Afraid we don't have any of the art type stores you talk about. We do have an Office Depot but they don't carry the things y'all refer to. Closest would be San Antonio or Austin. That's why Squadron and I have become such good friends again after 40+ years. Anyhow, thank you for your time. My concern is that when I try to do this camouflage thing as per the instructions, I might pull the paint off that we first put on. We will try what you have suggested. I keep remembering way back when I had and used an airbrush when a bunch of these things weren't such an issue (unless I am forgetting (completely possible)).

  2. I could only dream about our model looking as good as yours does. I don't have a scanner as you mentioned, so maybe I can just draw some on tape. You mention low tack tape. Can you tell me what that would be? That laying thread under tape sounds really cool. But my hands have begun to shake pretty badly that we may not be able to handle that. Thank you for your ideas, Gil. You guys really know some stuff. Thank you again for your time and your ideas.

  3. Hi Bob:


    Cutting Edge was from Meteor Productions who is long out of business. Their masks were vinyl and Ok.


    If you are looking for masks that are currently available, can I suggest Eduard masks. Here's a link from Sprue Brothers:




    They are tape and pretty nice. I find them especially useful for the complicated greenhouse canopies like TBM's to BF110's.


    Another company EX Masks makes them also:






    Dave, thank you very much for your response. We have bought ourselves a Spitfire (Tamiya) to work on next and the instructions show how the camouflage is supposed to be. I have to say - we don't do that very well. Years ago I did OK with an airbrush, but with a brush or spray can or both, it has become much more difficult. And then we noticed that Cutting Edge had that kind of mask (previously), that got our interest. I figure from now on we will try to work on models that are single color ones. I guess we'll just have to tough it on this one. Thank you for your answers, the links, and your patience with us.

  4. I have read someplace about those masks. Since grandson and I are always on the lookout for "best" methods for doing things, and more importantly those that require the least skill, these Cutting Edge things look like our kind of deal. I googled it but without luck. Anyone here have any idea where these things come from and how you might get them? Of course cost might be an issue for us, but we are interested anyhow. Thanks for any info.

  5. YES! It can be easily applied with a brush, BUT watch the following:

    1) apply it slowly with a wide brush to avoid air bubbles or at least keep them to a minimum

    2) Apply sparingly until you get an idea of how much you can brush on at a time without getting runs

    3) You may need to do all horizontal surfaces at once, let dry, and then do other surfaces each in turn to avoid runs

    4) It may take longer to completely cure (more than just dry to the touch) than when it's airbrushed on


    Hope this helps!


    GIL :smiley16:


    Yep, that does help considerably. We may try it on our next endeavor. I don't think we are gonna go the airbrush route anytime soon. Health issues, you know. If my son wants his son to get into it, I'll let them. For now, I foot the bill for our models and paint and stuff. Navy retired pay and social security don't allow for much more. :D Thank you.

  6. Robert- Glad you and your grandson are having fun together. Model building is a great thing to pass down. I am sure that he will look back on those hours when he is older and remember the time fondly.


    Frankly, by picking up a Tamiya model, you pretty much hit the cream of the crop. For fit and accuracy, Tamiya is generally the standard by which the rest of the manufactures are judged. In point of fact, a lot of models say that all you have to do with a Tamiya kit is throw the paint and glue in the box and give it a good shake and out pops a great model. Now that is a gross exaggeration, but it says a lot about Tamiya. Tamiya kits do sell at a bit of a premium, but they are in most modelers opinion, worth the extra cost.


    Keep at it and enjoy the time with your grandkids.

    Thanks very much for your response (quick). Yeah, afraid I have two kinds of cancer now and so he may have to start remembering quicker than we both would like and start these on his own. I am figuring we will kinda stick with Tamiya as you have recommended. It seems to be in our price range and they seem to have the models we are interested in, and except for our missteps ours did go together well. Thank you again for your recommendation.

  7. As I had originally posted, my grandson (ten yrs old) and I (seventy-one) are getting into modeling WW2 aircraft. We don't have the skills or do near the job you guys here do, but we are having fun anyhow. Our first attempt was a Tamiya P-51B 1/48 scale, and even if I must say so myself, it turned out pretty well, although we are our only two critics. :smiley14: My question though, in your opinions, is, what brands would be the "best" for us as far as pieces fitting, accuracy, etc? That Tamiya kit was really good although we did have a couple of issues gluing stuff together, but I strongly suspect that was us and not the Tamiya guys. We are pretty much limited to 1/48 because from what I have seen, anything bigger than that is just too danged expensive for us. Back forty-five plus years ago when I built my first models, I can remember that some of those kits had parts that you would swear weren't even for that model. Putty and a lot of glue was my friend. We'd like to stay away from those, but they may not be around anymore anyway. Anyhow, we are looking for advice. Thank you for any you are willing to give.



  8. Welcome to the Ying/Yang of modern model building! Those aftermarket resin and PE parts offer "better and more accurate" detailing, but also increase the stress and workload in the project. ONly YOU can decide how important it is to use them! But, if you do, you will need at least some of the following to make it easier...


    1) MAGNIFICATION- almost all of us use Optivisors and/or lighted magnifiers while working with such small parts, in addition to whatever glasses we already wear!


    2) TWEEZERS/TOOLS- you need tools to handle those small parts. However, once a small PE part is off its sprue, you can use some Playdoh on the end of a toothpick to pick it up and move it.There are also specialty sticky "micro-brushes" you can buy for that purpose. You can even simply lick the end of your hobby knife (carefully!) and use that "wetness" to pick up and transfer a small part!


    3) ANNEALING- metal pe parts have a certain '"springiness" or "memory" that works against you when you try to bend it to shape. Heating the parts (annealing) helps kill that. Simply place the entire fret of parts on a stove burner and heat it until it slightly discolors and then allow it to cool. Now, when you bend a belt or another part, it should bend easier and retain that shape better. BUT, the part has also been weakened (a little) so if you bend it a LOT of times, it could break!


    4) MOTOR TOOL- an inexpensive battery powered rechargeable motor tool comes in handy for grinding off detail, which I find easier than "shaving" it off. That motor tool can also be used for drilling and sanding, depending on the accessories you buy for it!


    That "film" you describe is for use with a panel that has HOLES in it. If you look closely, it probably resembles a film negative. The "markings" are actually clear while the rest of the instrument is black. If you paint the BACK of that film white, it'll only show up on the front where the "tic marks" and pointers show! You then glue that film behind the main panel so that the instruments show through the holes. Since it's also already a shiny plastic, the surface of it also helps it look like the glass of the instruments. All in all, it's a very effective way to make a panel look more realistic.


    Using resin and photo-etch is a choice, not a requirement. It can give you a more realistic and satisfying model provided THAT'S your goal to start with! Hope this helps!


    GIL :smiley16:

    Thanks. I had tried wetting the end of my finger to pick up the part, but then when it came off a couple fell into the carpet or some place and haven't been seen since. And even though seeing the part of hard, trying to get it where it is supposed to go and having it stay there, well, back to the shaky hands it is just pretty much impossible. When my grandson saw the hard time I was having, he pretty much understands. But our instrument panel looked really good. I had no idea about the film. We didn't have anything that had holes in it. At least those parts were of a decent size and we could work with them sort of. Thank you for all your other info. It is showing how much model building has changed since back in the mid 70's, or how maybe how little I knew even back then. Thank you again.

  9. When my grandson and I started on our P-51B, he swindled me into buying the subject add on stuff. Well, we got it, and, number one, except for the instrument panel things there was no way in the world a 71 yr old with not so hot eyesite and shaky hands and a ten year old (you know how they are) were gonna be able to use those little parts. And we don't have capability to "shave" off interior molded in detail so some of them can be used as the instructions told us to do. I tried one of the seatbelts and that was a joke. It was too long for one thing and required some serious bending and was just too little. We gave it up pretty quickly. That is my sad story. But my question - included was what they called "film" of the instruments. What is that for? The little metal parts already have the instruments on them. Oh, and just one more thing, important to us but probably not to you skilled guys. We also got some already cut masking that we used on the canopy. Boy, is that a God-send. That wasn't around that I know of when I was modeling in earnest, but it really, really does make painting easier. Thanks for listening, and for any info you might want to impart.

  10. Basically, all of the types work best plastic to plastic. This is because if a glue only binds itself to the paint layer, then THAT is what it holds onto, and not the part itself. Most plastic model cements (tube, liquid, or weld type) will eat through that paint at least to some degree to give you a better bond. But, once more, plastic to plastic is always the strongest bond..


    Most of us use liquid cements or liquid "weld" types instead of tube glue. It's just as strong, easier to apply with a small brush, and sets faster. You apply it differently than the tube stuff, in that you hold the parts together and apply a drop to the seam, letting capillary action carry the glue about 1/2" down the seam. Press it tightly together to get it to "weld" together. When used properly, you can even get a "molten" bead of plastic to pop up from the seam helping fill it as you work your way around the part. The liquid actually evaporates away for the most part, so there's not really any "glue" there holding the parts (unlike the tube cement).


    Superglue is VERY convenient, but don't try to apply it from the bottle! First of all, more superglue does NOT make for a better bond or faster setting. In fact, it usually works the opposite way! I use an old butter tub lid to put a drop or two onto, and then use a toothpick or small wire to apply the glue where needed. Since you have less time for adjustments, you want to use this only where you're pretty sure of a positive fit and alignment on the first go. It's main advantages are speed and tensile strength (when you pull on it). The down side is poor shear strength (if bumped from the side).


    White glues, Elmers, the Gorilla Grip glue (not to be confused with the Glorilla brand superglues) do not evaporate away. It's the glue itself that "sticks" to the parts and makes the bond, which is also why plastic to plastic is better than paint to paint. The strength of the glue doesn't matter if it's only the strength of the paint to the plastic that's holding it together! Their advantages are that they do not attack plastic or paint, and thus are much less likely to ruin a paint job or fog a clear part (like superglue fumes can). Their disadvantage is that they're not as strong. They work well for holding parts in place that bear no load (like a canopy).


    All of them have their advantages and disadvantages depending on the job at hand and your level of patience! Hope this helps!


    GIL :smiley16:

    Thank you very much for your response. I have learned from this, and will share it with my "partner" (grandson). Unfortunately, I forgot one other glue. It's epoxy that I order from Golfsmith. I have this around the house all the time since I make golf clubs and that's what I use to attach shafts to clubheads. Only negatives I can think of about it is that it smells to high heaven, takes pretty long to set up, and dries black. Would it be good to use for landing gear and those type parts where I could hide it? It is definitely strong. I haven't lost a clubhead yet that I know of. Is the plastic to plastic thing as relevant as with the others? Thanks again for your help for one old and not very smart.

  11. As my grandson and I get further along in this a/c modeling thing, I have a general question or two about the glues we are using. From way way back in my beginning modeling days I remember that it is very important to make sure there is no paint on the two surfaces to be glued together and that we need to scrape off any that is. This is for our tube of Testors. I seem to remember that the same wasn't necessarily true for Elmer's, which I always used to attach canopies. Am I correct? And to carry my question further, how about Super Glue (although I used to try and avoid it because all I seemed to glue together was my fingers, and this was when I was a youngster)? And - my grandson found something online called Gator's Grip Hobby Glue and we ordered some of that (that is what granddads are for). In the little bottle it looks like Elmers to me, although thicker. If you have used it, do surfaces need to be paint free for it also? I'd appreciate your thoughts on this, and maybe sharing your expertise with us. Thank you very much.

  12. Many points there. Decal on decal won't be a problem. What might be a problem is the whites may not match, so you would trade one "oops" for another. Same deal on paint. It won't harm the decal either, unless you use lacquer and you probably aren't. But, again, the whites may not match plus you'll have brush marks.


    Best thing I could think of is if there is an unused portion of the kit decal that has any white on it. Stripe, star, whatever. Cut your patch out of that. At least the whites will match. Wait a day or more to make sure the decal on the kit is completely set, then put on your patch. If you use setting solution, use very, very little. You don't want to re-soak the decal that's already there.


    Or just call it battle damage and don't worry about it. Like you said, it's on the bottom. Use it as a teachable moment and move on.


    Thanks very much for your response. Far as a "teachable moment", at my age there certainly are a bunch of them still out there, but I am getting way too thick to absorb 'em. (at least according to my bride of the last 49 yrs) I do, in fact, have a decal from the Tamiya sheet that I won't use, and it is the same color white as the other so I may give it a try. Battle damage is good also. I enjoy building/repairing PCs for friends and family. But as with my re-attempt at model building I'm afraid of screwing something up worse than it was in the first place. And in most cases, I don't know what to do from there. Thanks again Ron.

  13. My grandson and I are in the final stages of completing a Tamiya P-51B. Yesterday when he was attaching bomb racks and ordnance I guess the MicroSol stuff hadn't completely dried on one of the bottom wing stripes and he scuffed a fairly large portion of the stripe. My question - in you feller's opinion what is the best/easiest way to fix it? I have some spare white striping but I don't know about putting a decal on a decal; filling in the damaged portion with paint but then how does paint react to the decal?; other? Of course my first thought is to just leave it the way it is, but it doesn't really look to good. It is on the bottom of the wing though. Any thoughts and recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

  14. Was invited to introduce myself - here goes. First and foremost, I am 71 yrs old. I was heavy into scale model aircraft back in the mid 70's until probably the late 80's. But then I just kind of gave it up. Gave away all my stuff (airbrushes, compressor, all other hardware, etc) and my models. I have threatened to start again over the years but my eyes are the same age as the rest of me, and my hands are pretty shaky now and so I just put it off. About six months ago, however, one of my grandsons asked me to help him build a 1/48 P-61 he had gotten for his birthday, and so now I am hooked. No more expensive equipment this time though, only spray paints and brushes, and the bare essentials. None the less, here I am. I said I was "kinda" new. I think I was a member of IPMS a lot of years ago, but that was back in the days when my kids did all their "computing" on an Atari 800 (no internet) so it was all done by mail. Heck, I can't remember what I had for breakfast this morning much less what I did some forty years ago. I am joining this forum primarily so I can "pick the brains" and observe the posts of all you smart, talented folks who build really super models and maybe some of it will rub off on me. One thing I'm figuring that will really change. Back then I built nothing but contemporary 1/72 scale Navy jets (I am retired from the USN back in '82) and now I am gonna have to step it up to at least 1/48 out of necessity. Goes back to my nerves and eyes. Well, that is about it. Live down in S. Texas where walk in access to hobby shops isn't happening, so I guess I will get well acquainted with Squadron as in the past. Thanks for listening, and bare with me if I ask a stupid question. :smiley14:

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