Ron Bell

This kit comes in a two pack along with a Baffin. The Baffin was developed from the Ripon and is almost identical with the exception of a radial instead of inline engine. It's a typical Contrail kit. You make your own struts, undercarriage, interior and all details. I had no real reference info to go on, so a lot is "imagineering". The surface detail, what there is, is "mushy" and indistinct, so it makes for a rather bland looking model. But, it looks more like a Ripon than anything else in my display case.

The scalloped masking was amazing enough, but how did you do the pin striping?

Moving along in my Monogram project, here's their Deuce and a Half they called "Eager Beaver". It went together pretty well with only a couple of problem, all minor. Nicely detailed kit for it's age, it is the only one of their military series that did not have figures included. Perhaps other releases of it did, but this one, the green box, did not. Even the decals worked. They're thick, but they went on fine to the flat surfaces that prevail. I've only got an M-8 Armored car and the Grant Tank left to do. I've got the M-8, but the Grant is hard to find and when you do, it's expensive. I'll keep looking, but for now, the M-8 is up next. I just noticed in this photo that the canvas top is crooked. It's removable, so it just didn't get set on correctly. I just have to re-position it.

Two more and you can qualify for the "Collections" category.

Didn't Heller do one?

I've got an assortment I've pulled from my photos. Dragon's Churchill III as in Tiger Force at Alamein Frog's Martin Baltimore. Hasagawa Humber armored car. ESCI Bishop. Dragon Sherman I MMS Marmon Harrignton Frog Martin Maryland

Good points all. It seems odd that a company making detail items for ship models would not take into account one of the basic add-ons of ship modeling, railings. Anyone else out there got ideas/hints/tips?

I just got an Artwox wood veneer deck for the 1/700 Trumpeter Warspite 1915. I've never worked with these before and have not been able to find any info on basic "how to's", such as how to safely remove the adhesive backing, how to remove the cut outs, how to actually apply it to the model. I have visions of it sticking where it's put, never to be able to be moved for adjustment. Is there anyone that can either provide such info or point me in the right direction to find it myself?

I've got an old release of the Airfix Firefly, but I have the decal sheet from a newer release and it is much more elaborate. Don't ask how I have this mis-match, it's a sad story. Anyway, the old instructions do not give the location for all decals on the newer release sheet. Does anyone have a scan and/or copy that they can share?

My local has informed me that they are having trouble getting Tenax again. Last time there were all sorts of rumors. Anyone out there got a guess why this time?

Remember, you will not be able to register your models in advance. You will be able to fill out the forms to have them ready to do so on site, but you can't do it in advance. If you've got them made out and ready to go, it only takes a minute or so, depending on how many you have.

That's what "not much luck making it look good" looks like? Geez, I should have such "bad luck". Nice work on the natural metal finish.

This is just for fun. A history of the British Cruiser tank in 1/72/6 scale. First, this is the MMS A-9 Then, an MMS A-10 Next, an MMS A-13 Mk II Final MMS kit, a Convenenter This is a combo of Airfix and Hasagawa producing a Crusader Mk I The excellent Revell Cromwell The toylike, but only one in town, Matchbox Comet. Not a true cruiser, but more of a move toward a true universal battle tank. And I know it's a post war model, but the last Cruiser tank of WWII, the Airfix Centurion. Same as the Comet, more of a universal tank than a cruiser, but shares the lineage all the same.

Beware the new "green" pseudo-mineral spirits. They are NOT the same and do not react the same. Stick to the old formulas if you use them as the new stuff is unpredictable.

I have three, two of them RR and one of them only "sort of" commercial. Airfix Stephenson's Rocket Airfix Prairie Tank Engine And finally, the Airfix Four Stroke Engine

Very nice job on a cute little aircraft. Wish I could find some of those old blister pack models. They're just fun to build.

Very nice job. In my minds eye, I can see all the seams on those fuel tanks/etc. and fuselage in that shot of the bottom, but in my real eye, I can't see a one. Great job.

Patton thought our equipment was the best in the world (it wasn't) and that to fight effectively, the GIs should have complete confidence in the equipment they were issued. Adding all that extra stuff for armor kind of put a lie to all of that and he didn't like it. In addition, it was very 'untidy", and we all know what a spit and polish enthusiast he was.

Any armor builder that's been around since the 70's know's this kit. It's currently in re-release by Revell. Overall, not bad for it's age, but it certainly shows that age. All accessories are molded separately with the exception of the gun cleaning rods and why not them I do not know. The figures are over molded, meaning the detail is a bit over accentuated, but they paint up well, In this version of the M-4, you can add the extra sandbag and wood plank armor that use to tick ol' Patton off so much. It's pretty nicely detailed and makes for a different look if used. This marks the end of the Monogram tanks that I have to do. Left in the stash, an M-29, Deuce and a Half and M-3 halftrack. I may finish this project sometime in the next six months.

Beautiful job on the seams! Hardly any detail lost and the seams on this beast must have been massive. Not even any loss at the wing/tail roots. How'd you do dat?

Be careful with adding that hull plating. Even adding a .005 sheet plastic over the existing hull plate would simulate a inch and three quarters difference and not too many ships have that kind of difference in hull plate thickness. You might be better off with what the aircraft guys do with pre and/or post shading to "suggest" the plate lines. I've even seen the lines drawn in with pencil that look convincing.

The mark of a craftsman is that you can have all these head/heart aches, but none of it shows in the final model, and your's never do.

This is an oldie for sure. Dates from 1961 and it shows. The lipstick I used for this pig was a Tom's Modelworks PE set and some stretched clear spru for a basic rigging job.

I've been to all the St. Louis' Nationals and they were all excellent.

I believe Dallas was in 2000. As to that list, it's been on this Forum in several guises over the years. There's a thread (last in the list at the bottom) over in "General Information" and "About IPMS Convention" about it with several rather complete lists.