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mquan

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Posts posted by mquan

  1. Ronald, YOU are the modeler/artist and you should build it to suit your desires.  The youtube modeler replicated the "typical" stance of shore based Tomcats, whereby upon landing, one engine is shut down and the engine nozzle petals open.  The plane taxis on the remaining engine to the ramp and shuts down with the hot engine shut down with the engine nozzle frozen in the closed (taxi) position.  Whether it is "correct" or not depends on your point of view or scenario you want to portray in your model.  HTH.

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  2. Jerry, I think the major recognizable differences between the R-2800 A/B and C series engines is in the reduction crankcase between the cylinders and the propeller. The A/B series engines had a one-piece, smooth crankcase while the C series engines had two piece crankcases fastened together with a row of bolts. That should make them distinguishable. Thus, the Vector instruction that a C-series for the P-47D is incorrect and that a P-47M/P-47N is more appropriate. HTH

  3. Pulling what is close to hand, I took these measurements off 72nd National insignia measuring just the blue circle surrounding the white star, as follows:

     

    Airfix kit A08014 C-47 Skytrain D-Day: 18mm wings and fuselage

    Xtradecal X72083 C-47: (WW2) 18mm wings and fuselage

    Eagle Strike 72052 C-47: (WW2 with bars) 16mm fuselage/20mm wings (WW2 without bars) 18mm wings and fuselage

     

    18mm in 72nd scale comes to about 51" in real life. HTH.

  4. Tim, Steve Ginter's book on the Tigercat has the answers and photos you seek. VF(N)-52 deployed aboard USS Antietam with F7F-2Ns too late for the war. USS Attu delivered USMC F7F-2Ns of VMF(N)-531 to Okinawa the day before hostilities ceased, whereupon they flew formal patrols as VMF(N)-533 until the signing of the formal surrender. VMF(N)-533 flew on mainland China in a "police" role to prevent/quell clashes between the Nationalist and Communist Chinese factions. Photos in the Ginter book show standardized markings on these F7F-3Ns with no nose art, nor kill markings - which would've become unbecoming of a police unit. Many many years ago, I worked with a member of this unit who flew Tigercats in China and he said it was a very tense business to keep the factions apart.

  5. I'll try to answer your questions Chuck.

     

    Question one answer: I think most modelers kind of "eyeball" their projects, so using a single piece of masking tape, they apply it on the nose of the model starting at the canopy, moving forward, then wrapping the tape around the nose, and then back along the opposite side of the fuselage. Eyeball from different angles for appearance and symmetry. Repeat again if necessary until satisfied. I suppose the fastidious would take a tape measure or scale ruler to assure the mask is symmetrical. When using tape, try to use tape that is new or has clean edges. Rolls of masking tape tend to accumulate dirt and dust with time on the sticky edges of the roll when left out. I try to purchase tape that comes in handy plastic containers that keep debris away from the edges of the rolls of tape. Examples are Tamiya tape, and Frog Tape for bigger masking jobs.

     

    Question two answer: The key to success here is not always in the materials, but the tools and technique Chuck. Using scalpels assures a cleaner cut, but as a general rule, whenever I cut masks or cut decals, I ALWAYS use a brand new scalpel blade to assure me that the blade is the sharpest it can be. That gives you cleaner cuts and sharper edges. If your airbrush is not quite adjusted correctly, next time before spraying onto the model, have a handy "mule" or test model to blow paint on to see if the airbrush is adjusted correctly or not. Another tip to avoid raggedy edges is when painting canopy frames, after masking off the windows, first spray a first coat of clear gloss or Future, let dry, and then spray on your color coat. That will in effect, first seal the edges of your mask to prevent subsequent coats of opaque paint from seeping underneath the edges of the tape randomly, giving raggedy edges.

     

    HTH sir! Good luck with your project!

    • Like 1
  6. Beautiful job Ron from that old old John Tarvin kit! The triangular pieces you ask about were fittings on top of the wings (aligned with the top of the support strut underneath), that were to facilitate lifting the airplane with a shipboard crane. A third line stabilized the tail section when lifting the airplane.

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