Kent
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Posts posted by Kent
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Always good news when there is enough volunteers Mark. It's a drag that you can't make it. I'll look forward to seeing you next year!
Kent
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Wow no Mark this year. Too bad. Did you get enough volunteers?
Kent
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Great friends to reunite with, great modeling on show, great vendors to take my money, and a great complimentary breakfast! It doesn't get much better than this folks!
Kent
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It''s the Ultracast figure in 1/32 er 54mm scale. Link
HAHA...Seriously, I can help here...what scale figure are you using?
Because I was using the Master Class video as a tutorial and the builder uses enamels. I've tried acrylics and like them but the technique for faces escapes me. No online tutorial or video makes sense to me. The pilot figure I'm working on was first painted with Andrea and Vallejo. Turned out looking like Tammy Faye Baker had joined the Luftwaffe! Thanks for the response!
Kent
May I ask why? Vallejo Acrylics are perfectly suited right out of the dropper tube for figure skin, blending is really an oil-painting technique adapted to the wonderful technology of acrylic paints and the plethora of pigments they can bring to your painting bench. In my experience, enamels are best left for things that had enamel in real life.....57 Chevys and bathtubs ;) Enamels can take days to harden, oils can take a week, collecting every bit of dust that lands in the wet paint whle acrylics dry quickly, and so give you the perfect amount of time to blend one wet layer into the previous wet layer. May I suggest experimenting with just the acrylics and either a chestnut or appropriately-colored ink or wash (for caucasian skin) ? It will run into the recesses where human skin has it's rosy bits. Then you can apply lighter shades of your base color as extreme highlights (bridge of nose, ears, etc.).
How long should I allow enamels to dry before blending on a face? I'm using Vallejo acrylics as an undercoat with Model Master Enamels for the top coats as show in the Master Class Figure video. There's no discussion on how long to allow the base coat of enamel or enamel shading to dry before blending.
Thanks!
Kent
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Because I was using the Master Class video as a tutorial and the builder uses enamels. I've tried acrylics and like them but the technique for faces escapes me. No online tutorial or video makes sense to me. The pilot figure I'm working on was first painted with Andrea and Vallejo. Turned out looking like Tammy Faye Baker had joined the Luftwaffe! Thanks for the response!
Kent
May I ask why? Vallejo Acrylics are perfectly suited right out of the dropper tube for figure skin, blending is really an oil-painting technique adapted to the wonderful technology of acrylic paints and the plethora of pigments they can bring to your painting bench. In my experience, enamels are best left for things that had enamel in real life.....57 Chevys and bathtubs ;) Enamels can take days to harden, oils can take a week, collecting every bit of dust that lands in the wet paint whle acrylics dry quickly, and so give you the perfect amount of time to blend one wet layer into the previous wet layer. May I suggest experimenting with just the acrylics and either a chestnut or appropriately-colored ink or wash (for caucasian skin) ? It will run into the recesses where human skin has it's rosy bits. Then you can apply lighter shades of your base color as extreme highlights (bridge of nose, ears, etc.).
How long should I allow enamels to dry before blending on a face? I'm using Vallejo acrylics as an undercoat with Model Master Enamels for the top coats as show in the Master Class Figure video. There's no discussion on how long to allow the base coat of enamel or enamel shading to dry before blending.
Thanks!
Kent
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How long should I allow enamels to dry before blending on a face? I'm using Vallejo acrylics as an undercoat with Model Master Enamels for the top coats as show in the Master Class Figure video. There's no discussion on how long to allow the base coat of enamel or enamel shading to dry before blending.
Thanks!
Kent
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I'll be there trying not to spend my kid's college tuition while I help with the photo coverage. It's gonna be a blast!!
Kent
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Use the self timer- if your camera has one that is.
Something that bugs me about the current crop of cameras is that unless you take the plunge for something pretty pricey, you can't get a remote shutter release. That means man-handling your camera to take the picture, which means movement, which means blurring, especially with extreme close-ups. I've got a tri-pod I can use, but the camera still moves if you have to put your hand on it to push the shutter.
Of course, it doesn't help that the shutter is now the size of a pin head and my fingers are now the size of sausages!
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Mark,
I bought one at Walmart that looks just like this one, except for the camera stand, for $50. I'd shop around before taking the plunge for $90 plus shipping.
Mark
I have the Walmart studio too. It does an OK job but it's to small IMO.
Kent
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It moves around the country and is only opened for a few days in August. The Nationals Vendors hall !!!
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Very nice Gill! I started this kit when it first came out with the same scheme in mind. It's still on the shelf of doom. I like seeing the shading process in action- something I haven't mastered.
Kent
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It's a shame that the M-50 is so bad. I've considered buying one if I could get it cheap. It does build up nice-
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Splendid finish on a great looking jet.
Kent
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As others have said the UMM tool is excellent and would be my first choice if I were new to scribing. One priceless tip I got from Roy Sutherland was to 'pre-scribe' the panel lines that cross over assembly joints like wing and fuselage halves. If these lines are deepened before sanding after assembly then they never get lost and are easily restored prior to painting. Try it- you'll like it!
Kent
Looking For IPMS nats decal sheet for EC121
in Aircraft
Posted
I've searched but can't find the gallery. Can you post a link?