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mimike

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Posts posted by mimike

  1. I have recently joined a club and we are discussing entering a group build in an IPMS event next year.

     

    It is generally accepted we will be doing a single engine WWII era aircraft used by multiple nations.

     

    I have never done anything like this before and I am nervous.

     

    I’ve been modeling for years but never showed any of them. From examples I see in magazines I have so far to go and my air brush skills are nil, although I am working on this.

     

    In these contest how critical are colors? I.E. exact match’s of shades on the aircraft and accessories. To me OD is OD; grey is grey, but some people talk of various shades. The interior color, Zinc Chromate, Interior Green/Yellow don’t seem critical to me but will the judges feel the same? Tires - I have never found any pre prepared rubber paint that looks real; nor have I been able to make a mix that totally agrees with me. How critical are the judges?

     

    After Market parts or parts from another model kit (whether or not the part is from the same manufacture) - are they acceptable. I have never put spark plug cables on any model; I don’t like resin buy know I will have to start; I’ve never used photo etched parts and know I will have to learn how to now.

     

    Decal location - how critical are judges going to be?

     

    Fortunately I have a good amount of time to work on this project and I want to present a respectable product.

    My greatest problem is my impatience - I’m in a hurry to get the model on the shelf and have in the past taken short cuts in the building process and accepted less than satisfactory results. I know I have to overcome this now.

     

    I would be most grateful for any input from any of you out there.

  2. I have recently joined a club and we are discussing entering a group build in an IPMS event next year.

     

    It is generally accepted we will be doing a single engine WWII era aircraft used by multiple nations.

     

    I have never done anything like this before and I am nervous.

     

    I’ve been modeling for years but never showed any of them. From examples I see in magazines I have so far to go and my air brush skills are nil, although I am working on this.

     

    In these contest how critical are colors? I.E. exact match’s of shades on the aircraft and accessories. To me OD is OD; grey is grey, but some people talk of various shades. The interior color, Zinc Chromate, Interior Green/Yellow don’t seem critical to me but will the judges feel the same? Tires - I have never found any pre prepared rubber paint that looks real; nor have I been able to make a mix that totally agrees with me. How critical are the judges?

     

    After Market parts or parts from another model kit (whether or not the part is from the same manufacture) - are they acceptable. I have never put spark plug cables on any model; I don’t like resin buy know I will have to start; I’ve never used photo etched parts and know I will have to learn how to now.

     

    Decal location - how critical are judges going to be?

     

    Fortunately I have a good amount of time to work on this project and I want to present a respectable product.

    My greatest problem is my impatience - I’m in a hurry to get the model on the shelf and have in the past taken short cuts in the building process and accepted less than satisfactory results. I know I have to overcome this now.

     

    I would be most grateful for any input from any of you out there.

  3. I use an old military or office style, 36” x 60” metal desk. Large work surface and drawers built in. I have two goose neck lamps (one on each side) and a lighted magnifying light in the center.

    I mount wooded bases for the lamps to the desk and I get plenty of light and no shadows. With the normal overhead room light, this works well for me.

  4. I have my man cave out in the yard which like most of my build is a perpetual work in progress. Pretty much assembled it from stuff I was able to score on job sites so it pretty well a kit bash as well. I have reworked it a few times, but here is what it looks like right now. Have my area on the right and the boys have their area on the left, which seems to constantly shift more and more to the right.

     

    workbench_v20002sfh.jpg

     

    workbench_v20006.jpg

     

    workbench_v20004.jpg

     

    workbench_v20005.jpg

     

    workbench_v20003-1.jpg

     

    And of coarse the door says it all.

    workshop_2007001.jpg

     

    Just wish it was still as organized as the pics show it. But then again I can't find anything when it is like that.

     

    Looking good but way, way too neat! You must have cleaned up prior to taking the pics.

  5. Two regulators should work fine, but I can't think of any benefit from using more than one. The brush will get whatever the lower pressure setting is. (As long as you have them in series with one another, not in parallel.)

     

    I started with a Sears version of a Badger 200 single-action in the late 1970s (I think) with a 1.5 hp compressor and 10-gal tank. Just upgraded to a Grex TG3 (or TG2; I forget) and dedicated airbrush compressor last year. No tank on the new one, but it seems to work just fine. I still have to do a lot of sanding and repainting, but that's operator error and not the fault of the equipment.

     

    Thanks for your response. What is the advantage of a "dedicated airbrush compressor" over my Home Depot one?

  6. I got my first AB in 1995, a Model Master Double Action, and used canned air to run it. At that time I thought it was more trouble than it was worth (especially the cleaning) and never actually learned how to use it.

     

    I have recently joined a local club (as well as the IPMS) and bought a newer Paasche Sing. Action AB.

     

    I have dug out all the references I can find on Air Brushing and I’m determined to learn to use them.

     

    My question is on compressors. I have a new 1.5 hp comp. w/a 3 gal tank and a built in regulator. I have installed another regulator and a moisture trap. I think this will work fine - am I wrong?

  7. You can find miniature cloths pins in gen hobby shops. These small sizes take up less room and work better on smaller parts.

     

    Wooden Cocktail Sticks, a little longer than toothpicks and flat on one end, make great paint stirrers.

     

    Finger Nail Polish Thinner (not remover - different stuff) works the same a Ambroid Pro Weld or Tenax 7R. Get it at high end beauth supply stores (Sally's), sometimes harder to find but cheaper per ounce.

     

    Find a large plastic container (like potato salad comes in) then find a smaller container which fits in it but does not go all the way to the bottom. Drill holes in the bottome of the smaller one and insert it in the larger, fill both with water. Makes a great paint brush cleaner, the holes let paint fall to the bottom and keeps the brushes cleaner.

     

    I keep a "Dust Buster" next to my model desk. These small vac's can help find "fly away" parts.

  8. I am a retired US soldier now living in E. TX.

     

    I have modeled all my life and got more serious about it about 15 years ago when my youngest son left home.

     

    I grew up with a kid whos father flew recon P-38's and B-25's in WWII. He (the father) along with another pilot, bought a P-38 (w/a second seat) in the early '50's and I got to go up in it when I was 8 years old, I have been hooked on aircraft of this era ever since.

     

    I just joined a club in my area and, alon with sites like this one, hope to advance my modeling skills.

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