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Everything posted by TimDarrah

  1. Thanks Rob for the idea. I'll look for them.. By the way, I have also tried Accurate Armour resin tracks without success. Tim
  2. For my up coming birthday, my Wife bought me "Race to the Rhine - Liberating France & the Low Countries" by Leo Marriott & Simon Forty from RZM Imports ($30 & it's a great book). Any way, there are some photos of the Sherman Crab, that got my juices flowing, so I hauled out my Resicast #35.133 Sherman Crab Mk. I. I have built several DML Sherman's and hate the tracks. I have also tried AFV Club's tracks and have the same feeling. Both sets kicked my butt and even though I built the kits very nicely, the tracks let them down. So are there are any aftermarket tracks for the M4A4 that are easy to build? Thanks, Tim
  3. You can use any razor saw, the Xuron one is very good for "bulk" cutting, but the UMM-USA Universal Razor Saw it outstanding for the fine, close in cutting. I use both all of the time. If you ever get the UMM saw, make sure you get some replacement blades as well, as they break easy if mis-used, which I've done a few times. Tim
  4. All, thanks for your ideas. What I ended up doing, is I took Tamiya X-4 Blue and misted it onto a white primer body twice. I then put a full coat on it. Next step was take the X-4 and I added a bit of X-13 Metallic Blue to it and airbrushed that on. It looks the part but I feel I added a bit too much Met Blue but I'm going to deal with it. Unfortunately, I used a water-based gloss coat and it looks fantastic, but when I tried to apply decals, they stuck solid and wouldn't move. Now I gotta try to gently sand off the bad decal
  5. While I haven't seen either kit, I do have some hints for you. First you will need to prime all of the resin bits. I found the best way is to do it on the "sprues" then touch up after you have seperated the part from the "sprue". Tamiya spray primer is what I use, you can also use Mr. Surfacer as both are the same in my opinion. If you can't find those, go to Wal-Mart or K-Mart and buy some spray Krylon sandable-primer as that will work in a pinch. Ensure everything is dry before you paint the items. Consult the film on the colours the items are and anything else you might want/need to add. I feel you also buy the film on DVD or Blu-Ray and take screen shots of all 4 sides of the vehicle, that way you can place the items in their correct place. Of course you'll have to complete the Sherman kit before the Verlinden items can be attached. Remember to make sure the items are held onto the vehicle in some way, not just stuck on there, as if held on by a magnate. Hopefully I have answered some of your questions. Don't worry about it, just have fun with the kit & detail set. Tim
  6. The True Details seat # is 72404, and is listed as F-5 or T-38 Ejection Seats - For all F-5 or T-38 Variants" The Eduard sheet is SS168, here is the link http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/F-5E-Tiger-1-72.html?cur=2&listtype=search&searchparam=F-5E Tim
  7. Starfighter Decals has a sheet called "Peral Harbor Defenders" and I think that the P-40 you are looking for is on that sheet. Eduard has a E/B set for the F-5E, True Details had a seat and Authentic Decals #72-33 is a sheet soley for VF-111. Aggressors do not carry weapons, they might have a "CAP-9" on one wingtip rail and an ACMI pod on the other. They would probably keep the centerline pylon on the aircraft to help prevent flat spins, the external fuel thank is only used for long distance flights, not your normal day-to-day flying. (I know this as I was in the 64th Aggressor Squadron back in 1979-1981 at Nellis.) Hope this helps, Tim
  8. Howdy, I'm working on the Fujimi McLaren MP4/12C and using the Studio 27 decals to make the K-Pax Racing version from the PWC race Long Beach in 2014. According to photos found on the K-Pax Racing web site, the cars were dark blue with a metallic sheen. Any ideas on how to do this? I was thinking of taking Tamiya X-3 Royal Blue and adding a bit of X11 Chrome to it, think that would work? Thanks for any ideas you may have. Tim
  9. Rob, Thanks for the offer but guess what? I have an un-built K 'in stock, and it has everything I need . Thanks again for your help and Merry Christmas, Tim
  10. I'm updating the DML # 9017 Flammpanzer III (F-1) to the late War variant with side skirts. I have raided my spares box and found some of what I need, but I need two more J-13s from DML kit #9015 Pz III Ausf. M/N. Might anyone have those in their spares box that they would be willing to share? And if I might be so bold, if you didn't use the turret skirts your kit, parts J-24 through J-31 and two each of H-17, could I get them? I have the Tamiya Pz III M/N as a parts kit, but the hull skirts and hardware don't fit & I haven't gotten to the turret skirts. Thanks, Tim
  11. I have the kit and will scan that page for ya. Let me know if that will work for you or what else you need. Tim
  12. So is the OD going to be a wash over the black/white? I haven't tried this system of painting yet. Thanks, Tim
  13. Chris, Where did you get those resin bits (stowage)? Thanks, Tim
  14. Recently I bought the 1/24th scale Pit Wall decals for the #49 Oak Racing Pescarolo LMP2 car at 2011 Le Mans. It's black and pink, but very cool looking. The decals are going on now and fit/form very well, they should as they are printed by Cartograf. The decals are going on the SimilR kit of the Pesca. Yesterday, a box came in the mail from Hong Kong with the 1/24th scale, Studio 27 kit of the Ferrari F430GT "Risi Competizione" resin kit. It provides 3 Risi cars, #82 from 2008 Le Mans, #61 & 62 from the 2008 ALMS season, but the one I'm going to do is #83, the Krohn Racing version from the 2008 ALMS season. Love that lime green & blue it's painted in. Yea, it cost quite a bit, but oh well... Also, the 1/24th Fujimi McLaren MP4-12C GT3 car arrived with Studio 27 decals for the K-Pax racing cars at Long Beach in 2014 recently.
  15. Hey guys, Thanks for all of your input. I really liked that T-34/85 book you referenced, might have to pick that up sometime. Tim
  16. Patrick, Thanks. I was able to get my wife to give me the new Kursk book for Christmas (from what she said, that's the only thing I'm getting) so I'm sure if I asked her if I could get this, well...
  17. I bought the ROP o.s. Models decal sheet from Hannants for T-34-76 Model 1941 part 4 as there are two very cool schemes. I looked through my personal library but only have 1 semi-OK book on the T-34 "T-34 Medium Tank 1939-1943" by Mikhail Baryatinskiy, Ian Allan Publishing. Anyone know of a better book on the T-34? Thanks, Tim
  18. According to Squadron/Signal #1040 "P-80/T-33/F-94 in Action" on page 5 it states that 4 YP-80As were sent to Europe, 2 each to England and Italy. The ones in England didn't do too well, one was destroyed testing and the other was converted to carry a Rolls-Royce jet engine. The two that went to Italy did get a few combat missions but they didn't meet any Me-262s. None were sent to the Pacific. That's all they say. I'm sure you could fine more info by Googleing the subject. Tim
  19. TimDarrah

    Bren Gun ?

    I'm working on the Bronco Humber Scout Car Mk. I and the kit provides a Bren gun to mount on the roof, but it provides the Vickers "disc" style magazine, not the normally seen "banana clip". I have only found 1 photo on the Net of this configuration. Is it correct - to have the Vickers style disc drum not the banana clip? Thanks, Tim
  20. Kevin, Thanks for the suggestion about Slixx, since I don't build dragsters or NASCRAP, I don't ha e many of their sheets. I just might have to forget those decals as there is another marking above the NAPA one, but I can't tell what it is. Oh well, I'll just do it as the '97 MOSPORT class winner.
  21. May I point out something? On the real aircraft, you can't really see the panel lines as they are about 2mm's wide (I've been on an Air Force flightline for the past 35 years as a crew chief/contractor servicer). So even in 1/32nd, they would only be a hair width. I say fill them, sand 'em & let it go.
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