TimDarrah

Ooopps. I realised that I have the Tamiya kit not Hasegawa. That's what happens when I don't put my glasses on

Dick, I have the kit partially completed so I can send you the kit, but I don't see on any tree or in the instructions part # T-11. Please confirm which one you need Tim

James, That's too bad. I have removed it from the "upcoming events" page but can easily change it if need be. I have also notified MJ and The Journal. Tim

I hope to be there, but you never know with work schedules always changing

I wonder who is going to win the Indycar race tomorrow at Barber, that's the one I'll be watching. Well, we do have it TV here at work Saturday night. Just waiting for a KC-10 to come in. Tim

It looks great from here

I wonder if this will be placed at the museum or at the unit's building? Mark, next time you're at the museum, can you please see if that WW1 diorama that we did back in '92/93 is still there? Thanks bud, Timmy

Looks to be glossy Gunship Grey or maybe Euro-1 Grey. Those colours look different on different aircraft. We get in a lot of tankers and transports here at Shaw AFB, SC and they all are painted the same, but look different according to weathering, light conditions, etc. Just my thoughts

I crewed RF-4Cs at Bergstron AFB, TX in 85/86. During that time, we were converting from "normal" engines to "smokeless" engines. I'm not sure how early they came in service, but I did see some flying out of Nellis as early as '79 with smokeless engines. The area of "natural metal" behind the engine exhausts were Titanium, so paint all of that area that colour paint (Model Master has it) first. Then you could over-paint it with black as Gil suggests, but I would suggest that you take black pastels and rub it in. I saw very little staining on the stabs during my times on the Rhino. I hope that this helps.

Which colours/paints did you use on the P-26? I'm going to start working on a PT-17 soon. Thanks

I have informed and reminded the RCs many times about the deadlines for the three National awards - Chapter, Newsletter and Web site of the Year; so I don't know why you say your RC doesn't know. The deadline to me is April 15 as I have to compile the list and get it to the EB NLT April 20. Therefore many of the RCs have used April 1st as their deadline. These dates have also been placed on the IPMS/USA web-based calendar. In order to become Chapter of the Year, the Chapter needs tro supply the RC with supporting documentation on why they deserve the award. For Newsleter of the Year, the Chapter needs to suply the RC with three copies of their newsletter from 2010. It would be great of tey are as Word or pdf files, better if they are avaiable online. A short paragraph is also required. For Website of the Year, the RC is to check out each website in his Region and determine the best one; supporting documentation is also required. I hope that his answers your questions. If you have any more, please e-mail me at dlc@ipmsusa.org. Tim

The Tamiya one builds up very nice and knowing your work my friend, it'll kick "you know what".

I was looking at "Air Classics" magazine today, volume 47 number 2 (it has a me-109E-3 on the cover), and on page 24 it shows a Me 109G-14 from 3/JG300, which is late war, and in the background is a fuel trailer that was a very light colour. So it might have painted Dunkelgelb.

From what I know, they were flat black. That's how they are at the RAF Museum at Duxford and Hendon that I have been to a few years ago.

Like you said, the colour photos that I have seen, they seem to be dark, so I would think Panzergrau, or maybe Luftwaffeblau.

Also, Vallejo is very delicate so before you put a wash, dry-brush, add decals, etc., you need to put an over-coat on it, I use Testors Glosscoat. I have a bottle of their thinne, but rarely use it. To clean my brushes, I use laquer thinner and it works well. To thin it for airbrushing, just add water.

I have bought my sets, and individual bottles, from Squadron

I have both German Camo sets and the Allied one as well, plus over a dozen seperate bottles. You might want to get Iraqi sand,as that is supposed to be a very good "wood" colour. I also like the three "rust" colours they have and the "Dark rubber"

Gil, Yours is cleaner than mine. I have so many tols, bottles of paint, paint brushes and tubes of super glue, I hardly have any room at all. Tim

Mark, When the Ft. Lewis museum re-opens, please look for the 1/72nd WW1 diorama that the club did back in '93/94. Just wondering if it's still there and being used. Thanks, Tim

As said above, you'll need to glue the tracks together. I have used Tamiya Thin Cement, but the links broke apart during handling, so I use the Testors Plastic Cement #3502, in the purple bottle. I have found that it holds the tracks together better than the Tamiya product. But I do use the Tamiya Fine Cement for normal contrstuction.

The zimm that I saw on the Stug III in the WTS Museum in Koblenz, Germany back in '99 looked a light greyish colour. But I don't know if it was original or a reproduction.

Thanks, I think that it'll fit in my case with a problem

How does the Galactica look? I'm thinking about getting it but haven't made up my mind yet. Just how long is the puppy? It'll help me figure out if I can fit it in the display case. Thanks,

I say leave them round, 99.99% of the "pre-flatten" tires depict way under inflated tires (almost flat) and, therfore, are not correct. The modern jet fighter tire, such as the F-16, have tire pressures of around 300 psi.