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TimDarrah

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by TimDarrah

  1. Mark, That "undercut" just looks like the edge of the turret hanging off of the hull edge, as the turret is turned. Timmy
  2. I plan on doing an Egyptian AF F-4E in 1/72nd with the orange ID panels. I've found photos of the top and sides, but not the belly. Might anyone know if there was an ID panel on the belly and if so, it's location? I haven't found anyone that does decals for this model, but I have them in my spares box. Thanks for any info that you can provide,
  3. Try going directly to the Customer Service department of Testors, they might be able to help you out. I won an Italeri Spitfire one time without decals, I contacted Italeri via their web site and a month later I had the decals for free. I hope this helps.
  4. Doug, From what I see here at Shaw Transient Alert, air-to-air & air-to-mud missiles are generaly semi-gloss to flat. Bombs are like mentioned above, very rough, so are very flat, but the fins are semi-gloss to flat. I remember during Desert Storm, we opened up AGM-65 Maverick caskets and they were almost a gloss white, but the other ones painted green were almost dead flat. Hope this helps. Timmy
  5. Just found an interesting site from IPMS/London Canada, they show and say that the external fuel tanks on the T-34 were not plumbed into the internal fuel system, the fuel had to manually pumped into the tank. So no fuel lines are needed. Kool problem solved.
  6. One of the many kits that I have going now is the Accurate Armour VT-34 conversion. My Russian armour references are not plentiful, so might anyone know how the side (barrel) fuel tanks were plumbed? Thanks,
  7. I'm reading the SAM Publications Datafile Part 1 on the USAF F-4 Phantoms. They have a couple kool photos of F-4D 66-739 from a Texas Reserve unit in a modified "cloud" variation of the Hill grey scheme. I've done a search for more photos but didn't see any. Might anyone out there know where I could find more photos of this jet or even 1/72nd decals? Thanks,
  8. I have the room over the garage. It's L shaped so as soon as you walk up the stairs, I have my un-builts up against that wall, turn left and walk 10 paces there's my computer desk on the right (to it's right is the beer fridge) and to the left is the messy modeling desk. I have my 6 book cases up there as well with more un-builts on top of those. I do my spraying in the garage with the full display cabinets in the dining room. Hopefully when the daughter moves out in a few years, I can move back downstairs, take over her room for the modeling and use the guest bedroom for the library. As of right now, the wife says no, but...
  9. Wow, one little question and a ton of great answers, ideas and suggestions. That's what I love about IPMS/USA. Thanks for everything.
  10. It looks like my Testors Gloss Coat wasn't enough to prevent the oils & turpintine from eating thru to the plastic. So now I'd like to try to airbrush Future onto another painted bit. My two questions are: a) what do I thin Future with? B) what do I use to clean my Iwata with afterwards? Thanks,
  11. Well I tried it and even though I thought I wiped enough turpintine off the brush, I didn't and it ate thru the paint and gloss coat. So now I'll try it again with very little turpintine. Glad that I tested it first.
  12. Gil, Thanks for the info. I painted up a spare Pz IV side skirts into four different camo schemes, OD, Dunkel Gelb, DG with Grun & Braun, then finally Panzer Grau. I'll experiement with this before I try it on my Marder. Timmy
  13. In various Armour mags, they show the use of small spots of oil paints then dragging a wide brush dipped in terpintine to represent rain streaks, etc. I wanna try this on my Tamiya Marder III Ausf. M, do I need to use turpintine or would mineral spirits work? Thanks for any guideance that you can give me.
  14. I tried the alcohol without sucesss but the WD-40 worked pretty good. I'm still working on it. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
  15. Thanks guys for the info. I was also PM'd suggesting that I use a bit of WD-40 in a Q-Tip. So I'll try a bunch of these suggestions.
  16. Wow!! Thanks for that link to the web site, I'll definately have to order a bunch of kool stuff from them. Thank you very much for the info.
  17. I've started converting my new 1/72nd Hobby Boss NAW-10A into a NAW/OA-10C and need a 1/72nd Sniper targeting pod for her. Might anyone out there know if there might be a resin or plastic one available, or will I have to make my own? Thanks,
  18. Hi guys, I have a problem, besides too many kits and not enough time!! I'm working on the Fine Molds Me bf109F-2 and dipped the canopy into Future. A couple of weeks or so after I did that, I applied Tamiya tape on the dried canopy, it sat on there for about 3 weeks until I could get some Dull Coat. I just pulled off the tape and it has what looks like the sticky residue on it, but doesn't feel that way. A) what did I do wrong? B) how do I get this crap off my canopy? The tape stayed on until all overcoats where finished and dried. Any ideas? Thanks,
  19. Thanks for the offer, but I already have a "Ragin' Cagin' " Hawg so I won't need those decals. I thank you very much for your offer and help.
  20. That would be great, all I really need is the "nose art", wing & squadron patch and the tail code, I can cobble together the rest. But please remember, I need them in 1/72nd. I know that Microscale does them in 1/48th. Thanks,
  21. Might anyone out there know if there are decals in 1/72nd for the Arkansas ANG A-10s with the Razorback on the nose? Thanks,
  22. According to the SAM Publications Datafiles on the -109, they say that ModelMaster #2025 Marine Corps Green FS 344052 is a very close match to RLM 71. I've tried it and agree. They also used the MC Green with ModelMaster #2040 Aircraft Interior Black FS 37031 in a 50/50 ratio to make the RLM 70. I have used Xtracolour enamels in those colours and they are great. Use them if you can get them. I hope that this info helps.
  23. Might anyone out there know where I can get 3 complete sets (12 each) of the FuG220 antenneas in 1/72nd? I have a kool photo & drawing of a Ju-88G-6, C9+AA, that has the SN-2/FuG220 sets on the nose and both sides of the fuselage. I've looked at Squadron and Great Models with out sucess. Thanks,
  24. TimDarrah

    Russian T-34

    Yep, The Dragon/DML T-34/85s do look very nice. I have two of the NVA T-34/85Ms and will work on one soon. Tamiya made a T-34/85 back in the '70s but probably isn't up to modern standards. By the way, the DML kit I have #3318 has markings for 5 vehicles : 2@ Croatia, a Somali, Angolian and a NVA. Only thing that you might need is an aluminum gun barrel and maybe some etched brass to dress it up a bit.
  25. TimDarrah

    Russian T-34

    Yep, The Dragon/DML T-34/85s do look very nice. I have two of the NVA T-34/85Ms and will work on one soon. Tamiya made a T-34/85 back in the '70s but probably isn't up to modern standards. By the way, the DML kit I have #3318 has markings for 5 vehicles : 2@ Croatia, a Somali, Angolian and a NVA. Only thing that you might need is an aluminum gun barrel and maybe some etched brass to dress it up a bit.
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