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PhilPalmer

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Posts posted by PhilPalmer

  1. Having problems signing into ipms store to register for nats. Password works for forum but not in store. Tried password recovery. Link in restore message not working. When link entered manually message times out/does not open. HELP !!!!

     

    PHIL PALMER

    #19360

  2. Hobby Lobby here has a large selection of rattle can colors, some 1/4 oz and a very small collection of 1/2 oz.MM paint. They do have a good selection of Valejo acrylics. Virtually no FS colors. The LHS has most MM Acryl colors. Their selection of MM enamels is now down to only one rack. The manager has said that he may drop all RPM (Testors) paints due to their decision to abandon the model RR market. Floquil and Poly Scale were the bulk of his paint sales.

  3. Try to find a fine needle/nozzle specifically for the model Verda that you have. Even within a specific brand ( Iwata for example ) there are needles for each model in their line and for the most part none are interchangable. If you can't find a fine needle for your Verda, I'd look into investing in a name brand AB that offers optional needle sizes and easy parts availibility. Iwata, Badger, Pasche, Grex, H&S all offer several models with outstanding performance and service.

  4. In the 60's and early 70's Oscar Kovaleski's Auto World was a one stop shop for the SCCA's sports car racing crowd. A driver himself, Oscar was one of the top independent competitors in the Can-Am series. If I remember correctly he drove a McClaren. At some point in the late 70's early 80's the business began to shift toward model cars and away from the 1/1 stuff. I was supprised a few weeks ago when I ran across their web site while looking for scale race car decals.

  5. I'm not familiar with the Versa AB but, you may have a cracked nozzle. That's the part where the needle seats. Even a very small crack in the nozzle will prevent proper atomization. Proper paint thinning is also critical. Try using the thinner supplied by the paint manufacturer and make sure your using enamel thinner with enamel paint and acrylic thinner with acrylic paint. I usually thin paint at a 50/50 ratio and almost never spray over 25psi. Usually 15/20psi. Ron's coments about a moisture trap may also help. Lastly, when you're sure the AB is clean, try spraying plain water. If you can't get a fine mist and good spray pattern you may need a complete re-build or a new AB.

  6. I am currently working on a hasegawa 1/48 F/A-18E Super Hornet. And I currently have an issue with the vertical stabilizers. When I dry fit them, exactly from the factory w/ no changes, they appear to be too far apart, as in the angles they sit makes them too wide, but the outside doesn't have a gap whereas the inside does. But when i move them closer they look a little better, but then there is a gap on the outside. And when i move them completely inward they look too close together. Now i don't know the correct angle of a Super Hornets vert. stabilizers and am trying to find out which position is correct? Are a Super Hornets vert. stabilizers farther apart than a Legacy Hornets? Or were they just molded the wrong way? because I have seen a photo of this model complete and they don't seem so far apart

     

    So from the photo below, which is my copy and the tails are dry fitted with no changes are they ok or wrong?

     

     

    http://s362974870.on...howtopic=185967 4th pic down

     

    my version

     

    IMG_0573.jpg

    I haven't built that kit but I have built several other F-18 kits. None of the current releases are set up to positively set the vertical stab angles. I suppose they allow some wiggle room to allow the builder to compensate for other alignment issues. I don't glue the vertical stabilizers till the LG, wings, and horizontal stabs are set to their proper angles and the A/C sits true and level on the LG. I place the model on a dead flat ceramic tile to establish angles and heights. At that point you can make a simple card board template to assure both stabs are at the same angle relative to the ground. If accuracy is important use a drawing or head on photo to cut the template. Gil is correct in that symetry side to side is more important than the exact angle. Probably 98 out of 100 judges don't know the exact angle of the vert stabs on an F/A-18 but 95 out of 100 judges will ding your model is they aren't symetrical. Hope this helps.

     

    Phil

  7. I'm interested in doing an aircraft base that represents the crushed coral airstrips used by the Navy in the early stages of the war in the Pacific. The vegetation is readily available through W K Walthers.The construction of the base is pretty straight forward, it's the coral surface that's the problem. Anyone have a clue about the color and/or texture. I have seen several B/W photos where the surface looks snow white and very dusty. Any suggestions?

  8. I searched the forums for this to no avail, I cant believe no one ever asked before, but maybe its the way i typed it into the search, regardless can anyone tell me what diameter tubing would be equivalent to 20mm in 1/48 scale? or maybe the equation to figure it out for myself would be good also.

     

    thanks in advance for your time.

     

     

    Small Parts Inc. in Miami Fla carries small diameter tubing in several different materials. They also sell assortments, sample packs, and small quantities. Their advantage is that they sell tubing without molded on fittings like you sometimes get with hypodermic supplies. The 20MM barrel that I have is just under 30MM O.D. at the muzzle.

  9. Hi Phil. Good to hear from you again and glad to have you on this forum. Are you planning on coming to Kalamazoo for our show on September 17? Hope you can make it.

     

     

    Clare,

     

    Good to hear from you. I'm planing on going to Omaha. If the vendors don't get all my $ and gas is still under $5.00/gal we'll see you in September.

     

    Phil

  10. Ah-Toledo! The city Ohio tried to give to Michigan-who wouldn't accept it! :smiley2:

     

    Glad to have ya here with us. I spent 20yrs in R-4 (Rickenbackers '79-'99) and went to many a show up Toledo way! Please post some pics of your work. Cheers!

     

    GIL :smiley16:

     

     

    Gil,

     

    I don't yet have a Photobucket account. But, you can see some pictures at www.toledoplasticmodelers . Click on galery and scroll down to my page.

     

    Phil

  11. Hi Phil,

    The resume is impressive and I took particular note of your comment about how much one can learn and improve one's own skills by serving as a judge. True. Very true. Not only do you get to see what other experienced modelers can do but the conversation among the judging team is valuable as well.

    Although I've cruised around Ohio I've never been to Toledo. I'd like to see a Mudhen's game!

     

     

    Great baseball, more action and a lot less expensive than the "BIGS".

  12. I'm a long time IPMS member but new to this forum. I live in Toledo, Ohio home of the world famous Toledo Mud Hens and Tony Packo's Cafe both frequent topics from the TV series Mash. I'm retired from a career in sales and marketing in the Chemical Industry and a retired auto racer. My interests include photography, tennis, volunteer work and of course scale modeling. I'm a member of IPMS Toledo/Toledo Plastic Modelers and have entered lots of contests including the IPMS and AMPS nationals. I frequently judge in the aircraft categories as a way to raise my own skill level. I started aircraft modeling as a kid building Strombecker Kits and haven't stopped since. My tastes change from time to time but I mostly do 1/48th scale aircraft with an ocasional car or tank thrown in the mix. Currently trying to finish a couple of entries for Omaha. Not pertinant to this forum but I recently completed a fully functional1/60th scale RC submarine based on the USS Albacore. Great summer fun at the local lake. That's all for now, talk to you soon.

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