I often see fantastically painted Armor kits accompanied by plain, featureless, faceless figures. This breaks my heart, since figure painting (especially faces) is very easy to do, but it can understandably be scary. With smaller scale figures features such as eyes can be painted, but arent necessary, because you really wouldnt see the whites of their eyes at the altitude you are looking at it on a tabletop. Sometimes with 1/72 scale soft plastic figures the mold is the enemy, casting a featureless or malformed face. With 1/35 you have a little more real estate, and your figure, being cast in resin is even better.
CLEAR DEFINITION is more important than neatness here, being able to clearly differentiate shadows and highlights are important, just like when painting clothing.
1. free your mind- don't get settled on one face-painting technique until you are comfortable with it. The Internet is chock-full of face-painting articles,but I will show you my method for 28mm and please just take it for what it is, take parts, some, all or none, just practice. practice makes perfect, like all things.- Pick up a cheap set of Tamiya 1/35 figs to practice on before committing to your expensive resin model.
color twice, and clean-up is easy. Acrylics in the 21st century come in sooo many pre-mixed, high-pigment colors, that you can save yourself a lot of time buying pre-mixed shades.
3. understand light: When you airbrush a car-body with a metallic color, light will reflect and shine realistically, causing highlights and shadows when you paint a face a *generic flesh color* it will not do this, you need to create the illusion of shadows and highlights. Look at a real face, the color appears lighter where the light plays: bridge of nose, ears, eyelids, cheek bones.
4. Choose 3 flesh shades to start with a darker shadow color, a base color, and a highlight color. These will all be based on the same base color. Alternatively, you can mix a tiny bit of white or brown with a base color but as previously mentioned, this is a pain.
5. If using pre-mixed Vallejo Game color, I would use Dark Flesh (or rosy flesh for that red tint white skin has), as the shadow, Bronze Flesh or Dwarf flesh as the base color, and Pale Flesh or Elf Flesh as the highlight. You can of course, substitute any brand you wish, but at first, limit yourself to three.
6. Prime/Basecoat: priming white or priming black: you can find many articles arguing the finer points of either white or black basecoats, suit yourself. White basecoat will give you brighter colors, black basecoat will give you darker colors, since most acrylic paints are not truly opaque but more translucent. Exceptions of course are high-pigment paints (or as the Home Depot calls them HD paint), Games Worksho's Foundation paints are high-pigment, so they cover even over black.
7 I find layering easier than blending. to layer: start with the shadow color, paint all the skin solidly the shadow color, then paint the base color, leaving the shadow color in the recesses, then paint the highlight color only on the raised parts.
Don't get FRUSTRATED: when you paint the shadow color, the face WON'T look right. When you paint the base color, the face WON'T look right...PERSERVERE, when you add the highlight, the face WILL start to look right. your mind will start to recognize the human face once the highlight is added.
8. you can then wet you brush and blend the layers together if you wish , but make sure you leave CLEAR DEFINITION lines.
7. Use a Wash: Flesh washes are amazing, you can wash a highlighted face with a chestut or other red-tinted wash to give the face it's deep skin rosy color it gets from human blood beneath the skin. Once the wash is dry- re-apply your highlights on the prominent features of the face. your face will now pop out, and you will smile
I would always recommend rading through Dr. Faust's painting clinic here