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Everything posted by dsteingass

  1. I was able to make a quilted texture for a plush seat cushion by spreading some Squadron Green Putty, and then pressing a peice of granny grating (crosstitch fabric) into it until it cured enough (about 30 mins) Sort of like a reverse pressmold ;)
  2. WOW! I can't tell you how much I am digging that armored train!! DId the kit come with any extras of the PE bitz? I would hate to lose or bend one of those awesome hinges. Is it possible that you could take a close-up shot of that hatch hinge next to a ruler or something for scale?
  3. Inspired by the Games Workshop Imperial Guard Sentinel, I wanted to build something a mad Tycoon might have built in an alternative post-Civil war history. The 19th century equivalent of private armies of today, like Blackwater Security (or whatever they are now) ..It all started when I bought a couple of small bags of watch parts from ebay I still need to add highlights and give it all a general paint cleanup and weathering down yet.
  4. Oh Man! That is great! Red goes Fasta!! -That is an ACTUAL rule for Orks! I'm so glad to see someone else here doing GW kits! I'm even happier to see the IPMS community recognizing it!
  5. For dissimilar materials CA will always work, but if you need a stronger, more permanent bond, try Weldbond (it's like space-age elmers- dries clear) http://www.weldbond.com/ or try Beacon's 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue http://www.beaconadhesives.com/cgthree.html - you know how hot glue is heat-activated? Well this stuff is hot glue that is air-activated- so it becomes solid as it dries, not as it cools
  6. With acrylics, it all depends on the container and your sealing habits. I have some citadel acrylics from the 90s that are still perfect, (in pots like modern P3 acrylics) then I have some Citadel acrylics from a year ago that are dried out (in their stupid new pots). - Think it's either marketing genius or buyer stupidity, not sure ;)
  7. Cool idea! If you need more sprue , PM me, I have several large boxes you can have for the cost of shipping it all.
  8. Thanks Keith and Kjun! I really appreciate it!
  9. The kit wasn't difficult to build, they used the .cgi files from the movie to design it digitally, so all the alignment pins fit together perfectly, filling and sanding the seams was the difficult part. With all those panel lines, it was really hard not to get putty where it didn't belong, and even more difficult not to sand something that belonged.
  10. Thanks Rob! Since the kit captured so much of Robert Downey Jr.'s swagger in the pose, and he is a scrapper, I thought it was appropriate ;)
  11. I just submitted this for an IPMS review, but I thought I might post it here for anyone who is interested in looking. Painted with Vallejo Acrylics, airbrush and brush.
  12. Thanks Mark! - Those crates and boxes are a mix of Armorcast Resin pieces and my own homemade bitz box scrounges.
  13. Me too, I have the tool now, I just need to jump in and spray a tank, practicing on paper won't help much ;)
  14. Thanks man! I see, you use a very dry brush then..hmm
  15. Badger actually does some professional artist endorsements. If anyone is interested, here is the set of terrain so far:
  16. Yeah, I'd order direct from Walthers- that's all any local HS will do anyways, most aren't stocked from my experience.
  17. I did some buildings and random wagons, but primarily for wargaming in 20mm
  18. Even the stripes? Wow! I must be doing something wrong when I use decals then.
  19. That is GORGEOUS! Well done! I am completely floored by your mad masking skills!
  20. I love your brush painted camo, I do that a lot too.
  21. Wow!, THat is pretty amazing! Did you make your own masks for markings?? Those look too good to be decals?
  22. Man, I really like how you do your edge highlights. Do you start with a solid edge highlight, then later break it up in random places with basecoat color? My edge highlights end up always looking garish, or somewhat reflective in spots, like this: Especially because from your awesome pics, I think we are using the same highlight color (panzer buff interior?), although my camo stripes are a shade of mustard darker than your paint.
  23. Here I have tried your advice, not on a panel line, but as the shading between the deck and side panels. Here we can plainly see my aim and arm movement needs work, And I probably should have used an ink or wash rather than the same black acrylic that I used to touch up the ironwork eh? Ooops, oh well, live and learn huh?- I am still having fun btw. ps. And in my defense, it is DIFFICULT to airbrush in your right hand whilst shooting a pic in digital macro with your left hand, hoping the focus is on the right thing ;)
  24. OK, so the black shade in the panel line survives after the semi-transparent basecoat? And then the lightened base coat for the panel interiors allows the darker shade near the outside of the panels? I always wondered how you guys did that! Thank you! I am also scribing a lot of recessed panel lines and rivets on my plasticard Necromunda terrain buildings. However, i have realized that my scribing tool leaves a pile on either side of the scribe. When I drybrush highlights over it, I get a ghastly highlight line on either side of the scribe. You can see that on my first photo.
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