burner12
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Posts posted by burner12
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Richard,
- I did a little googling and apparently you aren't the only one that has been looking for Silverkite 211 decals. These other guys on ARC and Zone-Five were inspired by some aviation artwork by Philip West of Lt. Dose lining up on the Connie in '72.
- Apparently, Fox One had a sheet, (48-001) in 1/48 scale a few years ago for this aircraft. They are reported to have re-issued the sheet as 48-009! The Big-Ole-Bummer is that it looks like Fox One quit producing decals last Dec 2009!!!
- Still not sure if yer lookin for 72, 48, or 12th!!! scale. But HTH narrow down a sheet number to go looking for on evilbay or to advertise if someones got a sheet that they used the other markings off of. Good luck with the search.
Thanks Ken, that was nice of you. I found the same pages, and keep coming up with the decals that depict the CAG before the deactivation of the squadron, and I too saw those guys on ARC wanting the Fox One decals. I'm wondering if I could make it myself by just finding some good HQ prints and copy those images on to decal paper, and I'm sure with a model kit of a J the rest would come with the sheet provided ie. danger areas no step, us roundel, etc. But the problem I'm coming across is I might be able to make it myself with decal paper but when I find HQ pictures of people who have built that plane they are taken at an angle, and I don't know that if I can just select one spot on the picture to make flat so that it could be a decal. I believe not?
Sorry i'm looking for 1/48
Great news Ken I found this page but don't believe they are selling them any more, can tell if they are in business?
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Thanks for the help ken, unfortunately I can't find any decals of "SilverKite 211"
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I recently bought the Revell F-4C/D kit, and was going to make either Old's or Ritchie's plane. But now am reconsidering, and thinking about making Cur Dose's plane. Problem is i have a C/D and VF-92 flew Js. Plus do the decals for his plane even exist? And is it possible to convert a C/D to a J?
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- Sanding: I think it could be possible to drag the entire model across sanding sticks. When I first started this adventure, I used a sheet of sand paper before sanding sticks became a regular accessory on our model workbenches. However, you hit the nail on the head that it is a risk to breaking the landing gear or "popping" them outta their mounts. Neither one being a good thing. That is why my method evolved to one wheel (gear) at a time for sanding.
- Painting: I have done both, a quick shot with the airbrush or a few brush strokes. While it may depend on the size of the model (wheels) and the amount of sanding, I also fancy myself as a good blender with a brush and that is where I lean towards if I'm too lazy to break out the airbrush and mix up the paint tone. Aaaaaa.....modeling. Finding the happy medium between laziness, relaxation, and too much-like-work.
- Show us some pics when ya get done. Enjoy.
Will do :)
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Hi Richard,
- FWIW, I sand my tires similarly to the way Gil has noted, but slightly different and I think it may address your issue more directly.
- I actually wait until I have the wheels and gear already assembled and on the model. That sometimes includes even having the gear, wheels and the plane already assembled and painted. Like Gil, I too use sanding sticks, but here's where it gets different, (I will use my P-400 (P-39) as an example):
- I place three sanding sticks on my workbench located exactly under each of the three wheels of the model. I then gently grab a hold of one wheel in the area of the axle and while holding it loosely on top of one sanding stick with just the right amount of downward pressure, I pull the sanding stick under that wheel (for several passes) with my other hand to sand it using the coarse grit. This is done while the model remains on top of the other two sticks. With all three wheels/gear assembled and all wheels sitting on the same thickness of sanding stick you can maintain a level and flat result to all three tires. Alternate sanding one wheel to the other and so on until you accomplish your goal. I can usually get it on the first pass of each, but sometimes go back every now and again. I may also use a successive finer grit side of the stick, depending on how coarse I started with. Once I am satisfied with the amount and level, I carefully hold the model with a soft, clean rag and paint the sanded areas an appropriate dark gray or dirty tire color to match the rest of the tire.
- It sounds a little awkward and risky, but I have been making this method work for many years now and I have yet to bust off a wheel, gear, pitot tube, gear door, etc, etc.
- To add a little twist to the above noted method, on occasions with a "tricycle" landing gear airplane, I have sometimes encountered a slight tail heavy model (for those that I did not put weight in the nose and/or not quit enough weight). You can modify my method above by removing the stick from under the nose wheel sooner than the main gear. (But after you have already sanded the nose tire).
- You then sand the main gear with a "nose-down" attitude. The result is that once you remove all the sticks from under the tires, the ever so slight angle under the main gear will add a certain amount of force towards getting the model to sit forward. There is a certain and small amount of flex throughout the gear and axle and this is part of the the ever so slight forcing of the model to sit forward and on the nose gear. To date, I have never encountered a broken or distorted gear on one of my tricycle geared models. Also, note that this only works when there is only a slight in-balance to the tail heavy model. It won't work very well, if your weighting is already way too far off. Hope these tips help and Model on, Brother of the Sprue.
Thanks Ken, that sounds like a good idea to try. i think I will. But 2 questions you hold it by the gear what if you were making a Tomcat, and put 3 sticks under each wheel, 1 for the nose gear. And then taped the sticks down so they wouldn't move and held it by the forward part and the aft section and moved it back and forth over the sand sticks so that all the wheels would be at the same level. would that be a slight variation that could work on the way you do yours? Or could that risk breaking off a gear?
And when you go back and paint them do you airbrush or just a quick stroke with a brush?
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Work each tire independently, but compare the sizes of the spots on each. The main tires should have the same size flat spots, which ensures they'll both be at the same height when you put them on the model. The same would go for nose tires, though their flat spots would be correspondingly smaller due to the smaller tire size.
That's what I was trying to say, but maybe didn't say it in the right way. Should I tape the nose gear and main gear all together and sand them so that they all are sanded at the same height? Or should I do it 1 by 1 and eyeball it to see if it is on the same level as the others.
IMO I'd do it symmetrically so that all are at the same height, cause doing it separately you could risk 1 being lower than the others.
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Ok if they need to be sanded a little should the be sanded universally or sand the main gear separate from the nose gear?
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That's what I thought but didn't know. Thanks
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IS it worth it if you want to put a model in a show to sand down the tires universally so they look like they are on the ground, or just leave them round?
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I dunno...here's a brand new one, c.1973:
http://www.airliners.net/photo/USA---Navy/...9c27d2f7a80b591
The hard edge of that demarcation line may also increase the apparent contrast. Eyeball your model in different light levels and see what you think. Very subtle issue, which is what makes this stuff more art than science. My comment on this color was generic. Personally, I think your model looks great & wouldn't change it. Your call.
I agree I have been mainly viewing it inside, and not in natural sunlight , which is where most planes stay. So when I take it out into the sun the color changes dramatically. So I wouldn't touch it either, plus I used what the directions said FS36440.
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Here's what i have so far almost ready for a final coat but first need to doing some touching up. you think the grey is too dark? I used FS36440
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That looks like they used a "retro" scheme (60-70's) of 36440 gull gray over insignia white with a hard edged wavy demarcation line as an homage for the retirement. This was probably it's first scheme "in service" in the early 70's. Note how the rudders are masked off and painted white. You'll also find all of the flap, spoiler, and aileron surfaces on the wing tops are painted that way too. I love those early schemes. They're much more colorful than the later ones!
GIL
Actually surprisingly I have about 5 pics of this aircraft and the top control surfaces aren't white, I know it surprised me too.
Kinda hard to see from this angle but look at the port flaps
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Well i guess I just didn't add one important fact and that is I'm modeling the last Tomcat at the retirement. Here's a picture.
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I am building a 1/72 usn tomcat, and would like to know for a 80s style camo with light ghost grey and white with the waves on the sides are the waves the same on either side or random since you can't see it at the same time?and was that the correct grey color?and also after airbrushing it i have a lot of dust on some areas can you get that off by sanding?
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Don't despair. At least you got a response and an eta on the parts. Eduard on he other hand, doesn't have the courtesy to answer my emails. Thanks to Squadron's fantastic Customer Service Manager, I was able the get the missing Eduard parts from him. Hasegawa is also a slow shipper. It took me about 2 months to get several parts I needed for two Georges from them.
I just decided to buy another of he same kit, and use the 2nd kits parts for my current project and when the replacements come add them to the 2nd kit.
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I've never used a turntable in my years of modeling--I usually devise a method to hold the model while I paint it. I've used pencils in tailpipes of jets, I've used masking tape loops to hold a car body to the top of a spray can, I've bent up wire that I insert into the landing gear sockets, or, lacking anything else, I'll use the Mk. I hand (suitably protected with a nitrile or latex glove of course).
After you've been airbrushing for a while, you'll develop methods of your own.
R
Hadn't thought of that. Right now the only turntable I have is my mom's who uses it for cooking. So don't want to get paint on it. But a plastic cheap one would be great.
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What is the best way to paint a piece using an airbrush if you don't have a turn table?
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I ordered about six replacement parts for a 1/72 Tomcat that I'm building. To be exact they are all 3 landing gears. Bt anyway I called Revell and they rep said that it'd take 12 WEEKS
just to get them shipped? I can't believe that. I mean I'm not paying for anything, but is Revell good at shipping replacements or not? And does it take that amount of time to ship, sheesh! -
I have finally found a way, possibly described before , of a basic cleaning after each use. And that is take some Q-tips and clean the head and then clean the needle and using micro brushes clean the inside of the nozzle and head til you can see a full circle. And not just a small cresent or circle with bulges, cause then stuff is still in there.
Odd thing is I have a Badger 150 and with the tubes that transfer the paint from the jar into the brush through a small plastic tube, the past few weeks I've been thinking either the brush is broken, or the paint is too thick. Cause all that came out was air, no paint. Then I thought maybe the tube is right at the bottom. So I cut off 1/8 of an in and now it works. All that time for such a small problem. I hate that type of problem in life.
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Well, that depends largely on the paint I'm using...
For the most part I use Tamiya acrylics. To clean up after these I use either rubbing alcohol or Windex.
When I'm using enamels I use cheap Walmart paint thinner.
I've never had any problems with either.
How frequently should you do an overhaul on the entire thing?
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2) All of the "automotive putties" are thinnable with good old Testors liquid cement (in the big clear bottle). I'm sure the Tamiya cement is very good also, but the Testors cement is probably more available across the country. Keep in mind all of these types of putties will shrink a bit, especially if applied too thickly. Also, they cure from the OUTSIDE IN. If you do build up a big area of putty, be sure the bottom layers are fully cured, and not just "dry" before applying more. How do I know this? Well, you should see the nose of my 1/48 F-11F Tiger I built in the 80's where I used 3M Acryl Blue for the majority of the nose extension. It was fine for about a year, and then it slowly "bent" to the right as one side of the putty cured faster than the other!
3) To help presereve your putty in the tube, put a couple of drops of liquid cement into the neck just before you seal it back up. Also, uncap it only long enough to use it (whether dipping from the tube or squeezing out a line). Air is the enemy, so keep it capped when not actually using it.
When you say cure what exactly do you mean? Are you saying that overtime putty will lose its strength and fall out?
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Well recently I have been using enamil paints,and I think that lacquer thinner and enamils don't go together.So if you are using enamils as paints what would you clean the airbrush with besides lacquer thinner?
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I have never tried this technique before but for me it works great. I'm using the Squadron white stuff,and decided so it won't dry on spot I just took the putty knife and stuck it in the tube itself and took out the putty that was at the tip and works well.
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After a painting session, shoot the appropriate thinner through the brush until it comes out clean at the nozzle. That will get most of the "big" stuff out. However, every once and a while you should take the whole thing apart and really clean it. I always do this when I finish a project and/or switch colors dramatically, like blue to yellow or anything to clear. Take the needle out by loosening the set screw in the bottom of the mount. Clean the whole thing, inside and out (see below on what to use) Inside the nozzle itself is a small nut. Get a small slotted screw driver and take it out. Past that is a nylon gasket. Remove it as well. Now clean everything, including the inside of the nozzle with a micro brush or pipe cleaner. Don't push too hard or you'll distort the opening at the business end. Use whatever thinner/cleaner works. For really built up gunk, I cut to the chase and use either lacquer thinner or Testor's liquid cement. Obviously, ventilation is required and keep away from open flames. The usual stuff we hear. Then re-assemble the whole thing. Only tighten that screw inside the nozzle just enough to "squish" out the gasket to form a tight seal around the needle. Don't go too much or you'll distort the gasket permanently and/or damage the nozzle itself. Hope this helps.
Is what you described for airbrushes in general or the parts you described go with the badger 150?
just to get them shipped? I can't believe that. I mean I'm not paying for anything, but is Revell good at shipping replacements or not? And does it take that amount of time to ship, sheesh!
Question on decals fro VF-33 and 142
in Aircraft
Posted · Edited by burner12
Does anybody know where I can find decals for VF-33 or VF-142, MIG Killer back in 1972, in 1/48 scale?