
burner12
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Posts posted by burner12
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Actually the answer to the correct alignment was right in front of my face, I just hadn't thought about it. When you design stealth into an aircraft now they use plan-form alignment, where each angle is the same. And if you
look at the inside angle of each intake it is aligned with the tail. So if you just eye ball the tail by first dry fitting it then glue it and hold it aligned with the angle of the inlet, the you have the correct angle.
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Actually the answer to the correct alignment was right in front of my face, I just hadn't thought about it. When you design stealth into an aircraft now they use plan-form alignment, where each angle is the same. And if you
look at the inside angle of each intake it is aligned with the tail. So if you just eye ball the tail by first dry fitting it then glue it and hold it aligned with the angle of the inlet, the you have the correct angle.
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Actually the answer to the correct alignment was right in front of my face, I just hadn't thought about it. When you design stealth into an aircraft now they use plan-form alignment, where each angle is the same. And if you
look at the inside angle of each intake it is aligned with the tail. So if you just eye ball the tail by first dry fitting it then glue it and hold it aligned with the angle of the inlet, the you have the correct angle.
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I'm trying to find 1/32 F-104 decals when they were in Vietnam, and painted in SEA camo, but haven't had any luck. Anybody know of any place I could get some?
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I am currently working on a hasegawa 1/48 F/A-18E Super Hornet. And I currently have an issue with the vertical stabilizers. When I dry fit them, exactly from the factory w/ no changes, they appear to be too far apart, as in the angles they sit makes them too wide, but the outside doesn't have a gap whereas the inside does. But when i move them closer they look a little better, but then there is a gap on the outside. And when i move them completely inward they look too close together. Now i don't know the correct angle of a Super Hornets vert. stabilizers and am trying to find out which position is correct? Are a Super Hornets vert. stabilizers farther apart than a Legacy Hornets? Or were they just molded the wrong way? because I have seen a photo of this model complete and they don't seem so far apart
So from the photo below, which is my copy and the tails are dry fitted with no changes are they ok or wrong?
http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=185967 4th pic down
my version
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Looking sharp Gil.
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That's what I thought, just making sure thanks.
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Are they major changes, or slight?
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Are there any major external differences between an A model and C model Hornet, or are they mainly avionics internally.
I mean if I chose to do a C model with an A model kit would there be major external differences that people could tell them apart, or so subtle you couldn't tell, except for people who know Hornets by heart.
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You're taking your chances either way. Decals that are designed for a specific kit usually fit; but not always (manufacturer's error, as in the P-26 decals I'm currently using). You probably increase the chances of a misfit if you use a different brand of kit than the one the decals were designed for. That said, it shouldn't be much of a difference. Usually it's things like where a decal wraps around a leading/trailing edge or a compound curve. Those are the places that will be least likely to be identical and cause some problems. Just keep in mind that most modern (post 1990) releases are pretty close in airframe accuracy (sizes). If you start trying to use a MUCH older kit, like an Otaki Mustang from the 70's or a Hawk Mustang from the 60's, all bets are off!
GIL
That's kinda what I thought when i saw it was for a Hasegawa kit. I thought that the biggest differences would be if the decal was slightly too long for the tail or wing. With that all you have to do is just trim it.
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What kit did you buy? If it is the same aircraft the decals should fit. You may need a little alteration for D-Day stripes but usually it is not a problem. Many times Revell Germany uses Hasegawa moulds, as in the case of the Spit Mk XI and Hurricane Mk IIc.
I recently bought some decals that are sized for the Hasegawa kit, but realized after I had bought the model that it was a Revell. Does the sizing of the decal for each kit come into play and cause problems? or could I use decals fro a Hasegawa kit on a Revell, or vice versa?
I bought 2 old Revell/Monogram Blue Angel F/A-18 Hornet 1/48 scale kits.
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I recently bought some decals that are sized for the Hasegawa kit, but realized after I had bought the model that it was a Revell. Does the sizing of the decal for each kit come into play and cause problems? or could I use decals fro a Hasegawa kit on a Revell, or vice versa?
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Thanks helps a lot.
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I'm currently working on a 1/48 F-4J of Lt Curt Dose and his engagement on May 10th. But I was looking at an issue of Fine Scale and saw that for a Phantom most of the time the exhausts were stained black. And I know he went into afterburner during that engagement, so i was wondering does afterburner produce more smoke or less?
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I painted the top and bottom "pads" (chute, seat survival pack pad, whatever) OD. I've seen MB seats painted a myriad of colors. I don't think it was standardized, per se; they just assembled their supplied components in the colors they came in. As I said, I just found color pics of some seats I thought looked good, and copied them.
GIL
Well I have to say the paint job on everything cockpit, interior and exterior looks incredible. great work.
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I just finished painting the seats yesterday, and I painted the belts Testors "engine gray" (the little bottle). I was simply copying (as best I could) a pic of some nicely painted resin seats from a model building book on the Phantom. The engine gray seems to have good contrast against the OD padding, and allows for better contrast with the silver buckles.
By the way, I've gotten the decals onto the left side and wing, and hope to finish decaling the rest of the model this evening. These Two Bob's convention decals are DA BOMB! They are thin, very opaque (no bleed through in the res stripe areas), and lay down perfectly! Cheers!
GIL
I too have been studying cockpits, and I was looking at a site that had many pictures of the MK7 seat, and saw that the top of it was grey, I assume that is that chute. But again I can't figure out which grey to use? Did you paint the top grey or leave it olive drab?
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Looking great Gil, but quick question USAF may be different from the USN but what color did you use on the seat straps? I used light gull grey and the silver blends in too much with it I believe I need to go darker problem is I have about 15 different choices of grey.
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D&S= Detail and Scale. The Navy Phantom book is blue cover as opposed to most of the brownish D&S books.
GIL
Thanks
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The D&S F4 "Navy" Phantoms book does have -J cockpit pics, although not the biggest. However, they are in color.
GIL
What series if I might ask?
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Thanks for the help Kranman, but I just decided that the Detail and Scale can do the job for me. That does have good cockpit pics right?
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Thanks Gil
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I recently downloaded Inkscape to make my own decals, but I can't figure out somethings. One major problem is I have the tail of the aircrat I want to make but can't figure out a way to cut some of the sections out so I can just make those a decal. For example if I had a jolly Roger tail just cut out the skull and cross bones and not the whole thing. Can inkscape do that?
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Thanks, I'll do that.
But 1 question. What is a good set of brushes that can allow you to paint just 1 button in a 1/48 scale resin cockpit? And not get any extra paint on surrounding areas, as i have seen in many models?
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Does anybody have or knwo of any sites that have highly detailed F-4J cockpit and RIO photos? That include the left and right panels?
Help with a 1/48 Super Hornet
in Aircraft
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Sorry, don't know why it put that many post up