burner12
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Posts posted by burner12
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Does The Bug work for 350 scale kits?
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I had actually look at The Bug before, but didn't know the quality of it. Just curious an xacto handle wouldn't be good for rolling?
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I'm starting to work with photo etch parts and am wondering what are the best bending tools that you can buy? I've seen multiple variants, and do any come with a way to curve parts? Or are they for bending only?
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Thanks Rusty, I've never built a resin kit. So I'm trying to buy the best quality one for the first time.
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I heard White Ensign's Benjamin Stoddert is sold out, but Ironwright has a Barney for sale as does L'Aresnal. I've never heard of those 2 and was wondering are their any reviews of those kits? I'm hoping I can find a kit that allows you to build different Adams class variants, such as twin missile launchers, and not a single,
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Interesting thanks for the info Rusty. I've only dealt with 1/48 aircraft5 photoetch parts, idk but maybe 1/350 parts are a little easier to work with. TBH the reason I'm considering it is my granddad had command of the Sampson, plus I'm part of an organization trying to bring the Adams to Jax Fl as a museum.
I also built Dragon's 1/700 Adams, which was extremely hard,and imo is too small.
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Thanks Chris, I have very little experience with photoetch. Of course I'm a 1/48 aircraft builder, so the pieces are extremely small, and I assume 1/350 pieces would be easier to work with than 1/48 aircraft. But this is the only 1/350 Adams class model I could find. I've already build Dragon's 1/700. I was thinking maybe purchase it, before it goes out of stock, then like you said first gain experience, then start building it once I feel confident.
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I have been thinking about purchasing White Ensign Models 1/350 USS Benjamin Stoddert. But saw the photo etch parts it comes with, and the price.I haven't had much experience with photo etch. However thought maybe buy it then shelve it until I'm better with photo etch. What is the quality of the kit, is it worth that much?
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Thanks really appreciate it
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I may have a set. I'll check and get back.
Thanks
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Thanks for the advice. I let them get bleached for 1 day and see a dramatic improvement. I'll do it for another day but after that I think they might be done. But I will coat it and scan it as a back up. And upload a photo
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So it really depends on location? Inside a car have them in plastic ,and inside a house no plastic ? Right now I have them in plastic taped to a window inside my house. So I'll take them out and leave a small gap between the window and decal sheet, so they aren't flat against it.
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When you are sun bleaching decals should they be in pastic or out? And how long should the duration be? I have a set that are partially yellow, not too bad and can't find any aftermarket.
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I'm looking for 1/48 F-4J Phantom "Jolly Rogers" VF-84 decals. I can't find any. If anyone has a set, and is will to sell them pm me.
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I was thinking outside the box. How well would a black sharpie work? Seems like there might be more control with it, i don't know or have any experience using one.
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Thanks guys
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Richard,
Sorry to confuse you, like some else said above, paint the dials black then dry brush the white onto the gauges. I wouldn't use silver as the numbers and dial arms are white.
Richard,
Usually once or twice with the colored pencil works out well. You can use it for some othere effects also, ie...artificial horizon, half blue/ half black. Silver pencil for small chips or nat metal bezels, etc. Experiment with different colors, you can even blend them together. Dry brushing results with the whole area a little bit painted while the pencil can be used with little more precision in my opinion.
Bill
No problem Tim would you recommend masking around the area that'll be drybrushed?
Bill how sharp should the pencil be, to a point? Cause I'd think if it was sharpened to a point when using it it'd chip off a little
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Like here how there are small areas painted black but a majority is grey
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Thanks Dave, what if you are trying to paint only an MFD black, and avoid the grey. would you mask around it?
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Do you have to go over the needles multiple times with a pencil?
Tim are you saying drybrush with thinned black, how thin would you recommend?
and I have seen cockpits that are grey but have small boxes that are painted black,while keeping the base color grey. do you do that by masking around the area you are painting?
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So to paint the gauges black use a toothpick as well and not a brush?
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I'm currently building the revell 1/48f-5e. I got an aftermarket cockpit and have been studying photos, and the console is grey but the gauges are black with white needles.
So I'm trying to figure out how to do a triple drybrush. Painting the whole thing grey then drybrushing black and finally white. But don't want to have one coat cover the other, and read that on some website, I forgot which, that said to add future to make some gauges gloss. Any ideas?
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That "horseshoe" is the rain removal system nozzles. It blows hot air across the windscreen. I used to work F-5s at Nellis back in 79-81.
Interesting, Didn't know it even had a purpose. Glad i didn't remove it, thanks Tim
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To me, the darker, duller blue looks a LOT like WWII USN Medium Blue. I know it's NOT (technically), but it sure seems to match that color to my eye. You might check a Soviet color for the brighter blue, or even perhaps the old USAAF Trainer Blue.
My suggestion is to buy a few bottles of the colors you think look close (in the bottle) and then spray them on a test card to see how they look by comparison next to each other, and match up the colors to match the pic you linked.
GIL
hadn't thought of that gracias Gil
Best photo etch bending tools?
in Tools, Tips & Techniques
Posted
I've never used any bending tools, but it seems The Bug is made for small parts. I was looking at the SMS003 Photo Etch Bending Tool 4" Mk IV RTH Hold & Fold. It seems bigger for bigger and smaller folds? Has anyone tried that?