[Academy 1/350 perry class question]

Thanks for the help Rusty, it worked great.

[Academy 1/350 perry class question]

I'll try that thanks Rusty

[Academy 1/350 perry class question]

I recently started the Academy 1/350 Perry class, and read the color for ships is Haze Grey. However is there a need to add white so the color is too scale and not too dark? If so by how much?

[Vandey 76 question]

No I applied it over Tamiya white primer. However I took your advice and put a coat of Tamiya flat red. That made a big difference, thanks for the tip. Here's the result, will have it done by the next meeting.

[Vandey 76 question]

Thanks for the tip

[Vandey 76 question]

Thanks Gil

[Vandey 76 question]

I've been using Insignia Red, but to me when compared to photos it looks too dark. Is it just the lighting or am I using the wrong color?

[Vandey 76 question]

Thanks j

[Vandey 76 question]

The instructions that come with it don't list the colors needed. Does anybody happen to know the exact red, white and blue?

[Vandey 76 question]

Will do

[Vandey 76 question]

Does anybody know the quality of the Hasegawa 1/48 Vandy 76 decals? How much time you have before the glue sets, so you can move them into place? My only concern in building the kit is they're so big I won't have time to align them correctly.

[Swing wings and paint issue]

Thanks for the tip. That's what I did and now the wing doesn't rub against the top fuselage half.

[Swing wings and paint issue]

Jim makes a pertinent point...

 

Do you need the wings/pylons to be operable for demonstration purposes? If so, then you need to solve the paint scrubbing issues. However, if you can be satisfied (personally) knowing how it all works, and also satisfied that when showing the model simply explaining their function to the viewer will suffice; then gluing them in one set position solves your problems.

 

It boils down to what you want and need from the model.

 

Missed at the meeting yesterday, by the way! Cheers!

 

GIL

I do need the wings move to show how it works. I'll mostly likely keep them in 1 position most of the time. However I'm going to sand in between where the wings connect to the fuselage to try and sand away the contact like you said.

[Swing wings and paint issue]

Better yet, eliminate the toy aspect, and I'd the wings in one position.

Possibly but being able to sweep the wings allows the hard points to move like on the real thing.

[Swing wings and paint issue]

I might do that too.Thanks wedfactory.

[Swing wings and paint issue]

That'll work, I'll hardly ever be swinging them. Thanks guys.

[Swing wings and paint issue]

What do you mean leaving the black paint exposed? Don't worry about it? Also the coat is already fully dried.

[Swing wings and paint issue]

I'm currently building an Academy 1/48 F-111F in SEA camo. I've constructed it so the wings can move. When I put on the black coat on the bottom I started seeing whenever I sweep the wings it peels the paint off at the swing joints. I remember that happened to me with my Revell Monogram 1/48 F-14D. So is there anything I can put on top of the paint to prevent it from coming up when I move the wings, not that I'm going to be moving them continuously if ever? I was thinking maybe a gloss coat.

[Wheel well support]

This is what the "contraption" looks like, the molded support, and how it'd work. I'm just wondering if that is enough support to hold the weight?

[Wheel well support]

I'm currently building Revell's 1/48 F-14D. I have the True Details Aftermarket kit, which includes the cockpit and top wheel well. Because the top of the wheel well is the bottom of the kit cockpit. A problem I have is that when i cut the TD wheel well piece off the resin it doesn't fit. There are two vertical pieces that are molded into the bottom fuselage to support the wheel well. But the TD well is too short to connect to them. So I thought adding a piece of sprue longer, than the supports, to the aftermarket wheel piece would work. It does fit, but I'm wondering if gluing the aftermarket piece to sprue and sprue to the supports would that be able to support the aircraft's weight?

[Voodoo armament question]

Interesting, you learn something new each day. May I ask where you found that for future reference please sir?

[Voodoo armament question]

Thanks Ralph, that is very helpful.

[Voodoo armament question]

I'm currently building Kitty Hawk's F-101A/C. I've noticed that A/Cs never carried genies, and have found very few photos of them carrying Falcons. But the plane was designed for the Falcon so did A/Cs ever carry falcons?

[Help with curling decals]

I'm working on a Hasegawa 1/48 Phantom that'll be in Sundowners paint scheme. For the decals I'm using Furballs Bravo MiG Killers Pt 2. The problem I have is there isn't any decal in between each sun Ray. So when I put it on I can see the rays curling over and ruining it. I've thought about cutting it but when I do I always cut it in a way that you can see the slit on the finished product. Also while adding the insignia I found out these decals really don't like to move once on the model. Ive left them in the water until they started to peel off the paper. They still were tough to move. I haven't used MicroSet very much but also dont want those small white spots after I gloss coat it.

I've always wanted to build this one and don't want to ruin it. Any help would be appreciated.

[Best photo etch bending tools?]

I use the 4" Hold & Fold, but it is one of the first generations of the Hold & Folds. It is quite useful and works well with long and short pieces of PE. My main gripe with the original version is the round knob used to clamp down the item. If it was a lever or something knurled, you could get a better grip on it. I've wrapped a thick rubber band around the knob to get a better grip.

Have you ever used the 5.5" 5 Speed Hold and Fold? I've always been hesitant to work with photo etch. But I'm hoping that using one of these tools will help me get some experience. Because I want to work with it but I've never had the right tools.