RGronovius

I think those who tend to attend the seminars are normally intermediate to advanced modelers and not basic modelers. They are looking for new ideas or techniques to improve their own models. Some semi-advanced techniques that you've tried with success.

nice project, what does the conversion include?

Awesome work, I love the unpainted look, it shows all the effort put into the work.

Looks good, I always liked the gray over white with colored markings (as opposed to the subdued markings).

The -102, was that the yellow and black Monogram kit in 1/48? That was an awesome looking plane, I loved building it.

Good job and congratulations on this milestone!

The problem with super glue when you are just beginning to build models is that you have next to zero margin for error when aligning parts. Even after model building for around 45 years, If I need to position a large resin part, I'll use a small drop of Elmer's white glue to position it and then add thin super glue after the part is in the proper position.

Stick a hole saw on the end of your dremel or drill. Easy to do.

Testors makes a liquid cement that is fairly inexpensive and widely available in the US at local hobby shops, Hobby Lobby and Michael's. Tenex is more of a graduate level glue and not something I would recommend for beginners. The tube glue is an old school. You chosen two types of glues on opposite sides of the spectrum. One that will set too quickly and one that will set too slowly. This is the type you should start with, or as also noted, the Tamiya version that is even better, but often harder to find. https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Plastic-Cement-Liquid-Oz/dp/B004Z0PFTC/ref=pd_sim_21_24?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D6MG9PCCCGMWP3JKXVVY I also recommend making a little wooden stand for whatever liquid glue you decide on using. I took a little block of wood and a hole saw to create this one. I drilled a small hole in the corner to put a fine tipped brush in there for handy use. It was quick and easy to make and has kept me from spilling my glue.

Prizes for winning run the gambit from plaques, trophies, medals, certificates. I prefer the little medals because I can place it on the shelf next to the kit. The plaques just end up in a pile somewhere. I know one guy who often turned his plaques into bases for kits.

Archer Fine Transfers click the surface details link http://www.archertransfers.com/

This tip pre-dates the internet by decades. I have some I made based on probably Testors modeling material from my high school days (78-82). I've placed tape on the inner surfaces to prevent damaging the model itself.

Nice job, what's up with the colorful stripes? I'm familiar with Esci, I've built most of their tank kits and once upon a time, I bought a jet (F-5A?) that came with a vacuformed base along with a set of support crew and tractor with bomb cart.

Thanks, which kit would be good for an early Nam era jet?

I imagine in either 1/72 scale or 1/48 scale as I'm not sure how big the aircraft is. I seem to remember a Monogram one from my childhood, late 70s or so. I wouldn't need the best or most accurate, but just a good model kit.

Harbor Freight sells some very cheap airbrushes that are decent enough for a beginner to learn to airbrush with. Learn to paint on what we often refer to as a "paint bomb" or "test kit". This is an old kit that you use to practice airbrushing on or buy some toy from a second hand shop. Don't try to learn on your recently constructed masterpiece or else it might take the wind out of your sails and deter you from continuing to build models.

Are you planning to paint by hand, use an airbrush or spray cans? I like using Testors Model Masters for my armor models, but doing a natural metal aircraft is something outside of my area of expertise. A lot depends on what you can get locally.

Bought the Revell-Monogram Porsche 911 at Hobby Lobby's clearance shelf for a whopping $10. Always like these cars. This one is supposed to be model year 1987, but I wouldn't know the difference.

are these any good I don't know? FMD-8-72 are Jayhawk markings, way down at the bottom is the conversion set FMR-002, but is shown as retired. http://www.fireballmodels.info/

It's been forever since I've seen the old Patton Museum cutaway King Tiger so I don't know what was visible of those areas. Here's a link to someone's photos of that tank. http://www.williammaloney.com/Aviation/PattonMuseum/TigerIIKingTigerTank/index.htm

I like it, it is one of my favorite Tiger tank kits.

Went with the wife to a thrift shop mall on Saturday. Found an old Revell-Monogram A-10 in 1/48 scale in a vendor's booth for $5.99. It was opened, so I peeked inside, but decided not to buy it. A few moments later, the vendor asked why and I told him I wasn't sure it was complete. I could see some empty spots on a sprue and could tell a few parts were rattling around loose in the box. He knocked the price down to $3.99 and I bought it. It was only missing the pilot and the pilot's arm.

looks great, is this the kit currently on the shelves? I know there was an old Lindberg one that last saw life when the Independence Day movie came out.

I recently sold some rare planes vacuformed kits on eBay. Only got like $5 a pop for them.

Richard, you are incorrect. Every M1 version included an M16 version (started as an M16A1, then M16A2, now an M4) as part of the tank components of end items. Just like the older M48/M60 series tanks included the M3 "grease gun" submachine gun. There is even an M16 rack at the commander's station. It was considered a crew served weapon and used for local security and when putting out LP/OPs (listening posts/outposts) forward of a defensive position. Here is a photo of the rifle rack. It stores barrel down into that small metal post hole and the "V" shaped bracket was designed to fit the handguards of the older M16 or M16A1. A welder had to modify that part so it could hold the circular handguards of the M16A2. That short bungee cord held the rifle in place. At least one of the crewmen went to the range to qualify on it once a year. Normally when the company ran the rifle range for the mechanics, supply sergeant, NBC NCO, armorer and the HMMWV drivers (who were armed with M203 grenade launchers). One nitpick I see is the handle on the inside of the TC's hatch. On your kit it looks like a metal bar bent into shape, but it is actually just a nylon canvas web strap bolted into place.