802chrisg
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Posts posted by 802chrisg
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Thanks Mark. Still along way to go, but will be worth it in the end.
Chris
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Here's what the whole things looks like at this point.
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Here are the corrected mud rings and the commander's MG. The Mud rings are a little more "D" shaped then in the picture of the actual sprocket.
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On other sites, like Fine Scale Modeler, I often hold my tongue because I'd get attacked and called a nitpicker or rivet counter if I made these observations. I normally temper my corrections based on the work the original poster is doing. Had he been building the kit OOB, I would only just pointed out the hatch because it is an easy fix.
Since he was going full out with the PE and down to scale chain for the .50 mount, I figured he might want to know these details. If he didn't appreciate the hatch observation or if other members attacked me for daring to make a suggestion, I would not have followed with the other points.
Thrust me Rob when I say Thank you for pointing these correction out to me. I did not know this info and it was very helpful as I am going for a very accurate dipicted vehicle to display. I have another build going , a ODS Bradley that was part of the Thunder Run on April 5 2003 during the drive to Bagdad. That one is going to be placed in the 3rd ID museum display in Ft. Stewart, GA. The group I'm a part of is always pointing out and giving me feedback on what to do and not to do. Very helpful. It is always good to hear from someone that knows and can provide the info in a positive way, not like sounding like some a-hole rivit counter.
Again Thanks! I did correct the issues that you pointed out last night and will post some updated photos tonight.
Chris G.
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Thanks Rob, That is great info that I did not know. Will make the changes.
Thanks Again,
Chris
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Pedro,
You have really mastered the black & white tech. I have seen it done by Ian Hamelton from AMMO by MIG on soviet armor. Never seen the pre-weathering thou. Looking forward to seeingthe end results.
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Your commander's hatch needs to be straight up and down, perpendicular not leaning back.
If I turn the whole tank a little bit downward will that make it right? LOL Just kidding, I'll correct that. Thanks Rob!!
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Chris,
Where did you get those resin bits (stowage)?
Thanks,
Tim
Tim,
They are a BLAST Models Product.
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Thanks Guys!!
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Here is the latest updates on my M1A1 build.
Was able to get some detailing done on the kit's commanders .50 cal MG.
The road whells have been assembled and the mud/dirt holes drilled out on the kits drive sprockets.
I also added a PE water can rack on the right side of the turret. I previously had added a resin one on the other side in my first post.
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Welcome Steve!
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Nice start Chris!
Where did you source the storage rack from?
Robert,
The storage racks come from Blast Models.
Chris
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That is one beautifuly dirty cat! Weathering is spot on for a AFV in the field.
Chris G. :Smile_sceptic:
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Haven't posted in awhile so here is a project I have been working on. It is the old Tamiya kit of the M1A1 Abrams with Mine plow. I'll be depicting this one used in the "Thunder Run" during the drive to Bagdad, Iraq during OIF. So far I have added the missing front fender springs, added some missing bolts and filled in the gap between the front headlights. I have added or replaced the grab handles with brass wire. The biggest thing that was done is the model comes without the non-skid surface so I added this by carefully masking the pattern with tape and spraying textured paint on it. The turret got a new metal barrel, antenna mounts, wire added to the smoke dischargers, extended stowage racks, and IFF panels. The plow is getting chain added and a few scratch parts. More to come.
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Thanks for the tips guys I will deffinettly take these into consideration . Another thing is do you do chipping before or after the main weathering process.
Before so any washes etc will blend the model...
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Here is an example I did using the hand painted (Shep Paine) method.
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Z,
What Mark said is correct. The hairspray method allows you to do a large area and really bring out the worn/chipped paint look. Thre are several methods to get the small chip effect. The Shep Paine way which is simply taking a small paint brush and dotting and area, the salt method or the hair spray method.
I go with this rule, If it is a small area go with the hand/brush method. If it is a larger area or you want to show worm paint ( like white wash coming off) go with the hairspray method.
Chris G.
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Mark,
Haven't checked in with your work in awhile. Looks good. I like all the tamiya thin cement and the happy face on the train.
Chris G.
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As others have said, nice work.
Chris G. :Smile_sceptic:
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Chris, check out RB models. They have 4cm & 2cm antennas. Also they have mounts (bases) if you want to replace them as well. They are made of brass.
Chris G. :Smile_sceptic:
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Great job, everything just flows together.
Chris G. :Smile_sceptic:
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I so want this kit! Shout out to my wife, hint Fathers Day present?
Chris G.
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Chris as a armor builder I try to build as accurate as possable to the subjuct I build. That being said there are "Rivit Counters" in every type of model subject. Be it cars, airplanes, ships, armor, etc. I would tell you this. Build what YOU WANT and enjoy it. Along the way of enjoying this hobby do some research and pick up some historical info so that you educate youself as to what is what. That is part of the fun of this hobby, learning about the subjects that we modelers try to build and display. Bottom line if your happy with it then that is all that matters.
Chris G. :Smile_sceptic:
M4A3 Sherman 105mm Howitzer
in Armor
Posted
Pedro,
I must say at first when you did the staining, chipping and weathering before you did your base coat of green I was concerned. It seemed to me that all that effects were diminished a little as it did not appear to come throu as well. Now with the filters and other steps it is showing up great. Am watching this build with great interest.
Chris