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nmertes

IPMS/USA Member
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Posts posted by nmertes

  1. Thanks Mark.  That's about what I expected.  BTW I've been using self-adhesive wheel weights for a couple years.  They are in ¼ ounce segments and can be pounded very thin & folded/molded into almost any shape you need.

  2. Work at Batteries Plus in Chandler, AZ.  We're considered essential so, we've been open since the beginning.  Early on we reduced our hours a couple hours a day.  No we're back to business as usual.  The retail side dropped off for awhile but have slowly come back.  Commercial sales have actually risen beyond what they were this time last year.  I've been working more hours because some of our folks decided they didn't want to risk the chance of exposure. 

    My model building has never been prolific.  I have 2 kits waiting for the temperature to drop during the day so I can airbrush in my shed (Phoenix set records for the most 100 degree plus & 110 degree plus days this summer as well as 1" of rain for 1 of the driest monsoon seasons on record) and a Monogram F-106 on the bench.

    It hasn't affected my buying much.  I already have most of the kits I want(very limited stash storage space) so most of what I have purchased is paint, resin, & PE.

  3. I'm very slowly building a Monogram 1/48th scale F-106.  Any of you that have built either the Monogram or Trumpeter kit recall how much nose weight you used?  It probably won't be very much as the main gear is set fairly far back on the airframe.

  4. The P-51's are put away for awhile.  I pulled out the Monogram & Trumpeter F-106 kits to finish in 48FIS markings.  I have Detail & Scale markings that Bert sent me when I was with the 48th 1983-1985.  The Monogram seat has good detail but, it's all molded in.  The Trumpeter seat consists of 6 parts with no harness or other detail on the seat and there are 2 complete seats in the kit.  PE harness is included but has to be painted the correct colors.  Eduard to the rescue.  Set 49714 was designed for the Trumpeter kit.  Most of it should work with some careful modifications.  I'm reasonably satisfied with how the seat turned out other than I got too much glue in several places.  I tried using CA but, couldn't get parts settled where I wanted them before it setup.  Ultra Glue from Ammo by Mig seems to work just fine.  It gives the extended working time I like to get pieces settled where/how I want them.  The seat now consists of 21 pieces.  The 2 small hook pieces on side of the head rest are flattened solder.  The PE parts were gobbled up by the floor monster.

    F-106 Seat Front.jpg

    F-106 Seat Left Side.jpg

    F-106 Seat Right Side.jpg

  5. You’ll get lots of good suggestions from this crowd.  My favorite is Sprue Brothers (spruebrothers.com).  I’ve never had them show an item in stock & then find out they didn’t have it.  That has happened several times with squadron.com.  There are a number of good overseas online stores but, you have to be prepared for very lengthy shipping times.  I’ve had orders take as long as 6 weeks to get here from Eastern Europe.  

  6. Instructions are posted for SOME kits on Scalemates.  Just not the Monogram F-106.  If you click on the box art picture & scroll down past the timeline, there is a link to a downloadable copy of the instructions.  I checked several other kits in my stash & they show instructions available.

  7. I've had responses from some folks on modeling facebook pages with the same result, Gil.  It looks like Ludwig took the library down.  Not sure what happened.  Somebody mentioned that scalemates.com has kit instructions.  I haven't figured out how to get to that page.

  8. I've used Ludwig's Modeler's Library several times over the past few years looking for kit instructions that have come up missing.  When I attempted to open it today I got a can't be reached www.cavallar.ch/model took too long to respond error.  Have any of you attempted to visit this site lately or know what's happened to it?

  9. Thanks for the info, Gil.  I also have spent a lot of time at the museum in Dayton & have plenty of photos of the RF-86.  I found the kit on ebay from a seller in Japan but, he wants $98.00 for it.  Guess I'll keep it on the back burner for awhile.

    • Like 1
  10. In the June 2018 Fine Scale Modeler, Chuck Davis converted an Academy 1/72nd scale F-86E into an RF-86F.  Somewhere down the road on my build list is to convert an Eduard (Hasagawa) 1/48th scale F-86F to an recon version.  Does anybody know of a conversion kit or plans to do it without spending years in the process?

  11. Taking a long shot.  I ordered & (finally) received Kasl Hobbies 1/48th scale RF-5E detail set.  The only problem is most of the information is in Chinese.  I checked the website shown on the instructions.  The website is all in Chinese with no option for an English translation.  The paint call outs are for Gunze Mr. Color which I should be able to cross to Model Master & Tamiya and I think I understand the diagrams well enough that I shouldn't have any problems.  It would be nice to have a translation of the instructions.  Do any of you read Chinese well enough to translate the attached.

    Scan0001.thumb.jpg.9f9b310b8296cbc941f9a7d0d07e52b4.jpg

  12. Nothing in the world wrong with that system.  I'm making my 1st serious attempt at using Eduard PE on both P-51's.  I can usually get 1 or 2 small pieces glued in place.  Then I have to walk away from it for a couple hours.

    I usually paint light to dark colors.  That way you won't have a problem with darker colors showing through the lighter colors.  The only exception to that rule would be to use a white primer before spraying any other colors.  That will give you a good base color to build on.  Allow plenty of time for the paints to cure before applying any tape.  Otherwise you may windup lifting paint.  Since the AIM-54's were overall white, you might start with a white primer, add your other colors, & finish with a gloss or semi-gloss clear finish.  I like whatever name Johnson & Johnson is calling Future these days (It looks like Pledge Multi-Surface Floor Finish is the current name).

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