Dick Montgomery

Dunno....never had cable tv.

You can watch the current space mission by going to NASA TV . Your mileage may vary but I use Real Player....and choice under the "Other Viewing Options" label on the right. Cool stuff!

Not up to your standards but I'm doing the Revell X-15A-2 in the ablative scheme. Its in 1/72nd and for all intents and purposes it will be oob. I hope I can get the same nice finished product you got. And when that Tamiya hits the shelf I'll just have to spring for one!

Sa-wheat!!!! How about sending one of the pics, or all of them, to Larry for the Member's Gallery?

Adding to Pyman's comment.... I use Gator Glue exclusively when attaching canopies. It even tends to fill in the small seams around the glazing. If you are going to the R6 Convention in Little Rock in Oct I believe that Gator will be vending there. I'm sure he'll have some of the sticky stuff....

Looking good. I've used Alclad for a number of projects and have had problems on only one. (My bad...easily fixed with some sanding) and I love the stuff! A bit price challenged but one gets terrific results.

Ok...I'm a rookie when it comes to figs. What do you prime it with if it is Plastic? Metal? Resin?

Extremely cool website! I'll try to make sure that all of the car clubs receive the URL for this new website.

How'd you miss this thread? Well...the subject matter isn't British and your radar only locates BAC, Hawker, or Gloster. And I can build the big ones as well as I can build the small ones. That ain't sayin' much though. If there were a 4th place award I'd be a contender!

Thanks, but I doubled the fun! I built two of these babies side by side with the commission client getting the better of the subassemblies. Some of those seams were nasty also...especially around the nacelles. And the tailplanes.... geez, who designed this kit? Fortunately the fuselage seams were very easy to prepare. The 2nd B-29 is now within minutes of completion and isn't that much less in "quality" than the first. I use the " " around quality because, after all, I'm the builder and, well.... it ain't an award winner. Enola Gay #2 will be donated to the ROTC unit at my high school. I guess I'll have to drive my Klingon Battlecruiser to work to take it since my usual method of transport is on a scooter..... now that would be a sight. Me cruisin' to school with a B-29 strapped to the handle bar!

I've got some approached two+ years...no change from its original clear appearance.

Nice! Don't tell anyone but I also dabble in HO scale trains and have found that the scenery building skills carrry over to the modeling world nicely. I often use "BBQ brickettes" for rockface, especially volcanic type scenes. Not the charcoal...but there are rocks that act as heat transmitters for BBQ pits...can't think of what they are called....

Closer up? Ain't gonna happen....then you'd see all the mistakes. My already shakey rep as a modeler would further erode! Good thing there's no requirement that national officers win at the convention !

I don't think there's sufficient room forward of the CG to get this thing to sit on its gear! The first one I ever built was screwed to its base and I always worried about the nose gear fatiguing and pulling out of the wheel well. I'm building a 3rd one now (built two at once and put the better subassemblies on a single airframe for the "client") which will be wheels up. It will be donated to the local AFROTC at my high school.

Revell kit? No...this was back in the day when Monogram was Monogram, men were men, and glue didn't smell like bananas. This is the Monogram 1/48th 5202 kit. I believe 5200 was the original version, without the atomic bomber props. 5202 had the wide blade props contained in the kit. This kit included the flush plugs that fit over the gun turret mounts and the side blisters but one needs to remove the turret fairings molded on the fuselage. Being a person who cuts first and then measures I got the holes too big but 3M Acryl Blue body putty and loads of sprue can fill the grand canyon. I made the base. Its a highly technical and very difficu.......aw heck.... it took five minutes to cut the three parts out of scrap acrylic which I buy at the Plastic Supply for 50 cents a pound. BTW- the wings are not glued on. The owner of the model ( a non-modeler) thinks he's going to display this thing on a coffee table. (Right!) I convinced him that it would be easier to move it and store it if he could pull the wings off and slip them back on at will. The fit on this old bird is just that good!

That will have to be a long distance smootch. Tom is in New Braunfels, TX and Matt is 6 hours away in Lake Charles. LA. Welcome aboard Matt! Does this mean I have to bow and kiss the ring when I go to CALMEX? Oh, and my boy won at TMS on Sunday!!!!!

Ok...Finally found a setting in which the image actually shows up. For those viewing for the 1st time I couldn't get the image to "stick" here. Ken and Tim made comments before I found a way to get this image to "stick". ">Visit My Website

Try http://www.gatorsmask.com/

Gator Glue works wonders for the attachment of clear parts and also P.E. parts. I've been working on a B-29 (the old Monogram kit) and G.G. worked quickly to "stick" the two nose glazing pieces in place. It even fills the gap around the canopy and then dries clear. Love this stuff!

Wow! That is a great story....living near the scene of the crash. And a great way to relieve stress! Great Job!

There was some similar information on another website....bottle or liquid being blue...etc. One person reported usage was identical to Future. A second person reported that new product didn't dry as clear. Any follow up on the new stuff by anyone?

Steve, I also found "scotch" tape to be less than adequate. I use bits of masking material for the carriers sheets from Cutting Edge, Gator Masks or any other brand of vinyal masking material. I also use blue "painter's tape". It comes in different widths and behaves like masking tape...much less "stick" but sufficient for modeling.

Dang Tim! That looks great!

I completed an OOB build of the Trumpeter HMS Hood for an IPMS Review submission some time ago. Now that I am about to add some photo etch to the model I thought it wise to put it under cover. I learned how to build inexpensive display cases out of scrap acrylic some years ago and have quite a number of them in the War Room. The process is not difficult, and with the proper tools (a high quality table saw is important) which I, unfortunately do not have, one could build these cases at a "professional" level and at very low cost. I purchase the acrylic sheet pieces from a local plastic supply business at 50 cents per pound and this particular case weighs less than two pounds. The acrylic sheet is 3/16 thick so its strong and solid. Using a jig saw to cut the pieces to size took about an hour. Assembly of the case (its like building a model!) took another 2 hours, mostly letting the adhesive dry. After cutting the wood base to fit the size of the case (don't do it the other way around.....) and then attaching some inexpensive wood trim to the base, today I applied the first layer of Medium Gel simulating the ocean surface. By this evening I'll have some color on the "waves" and over the next few days I'll add some ocean spray and more color. I'm not that skilled in this technique but if I can get decent results so can you. If you wish to see some pics "in progress" please go here: Visit My Website Its a Photobucket album of four pics.

MV lenses are top notch. You may also want to go to the Dollar Store or Hobby Lobby and look for a package of Googly Eyes.....those little clear plastic bubbles with the black dots in them that scrapbookers use as "eyes" on cards and stationary.