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  1. These circular discussions are entertaining, but I’m waiting to see how it will be run, which depends, I’m sure, on local rules, CDC guidance, and best practices in play at the time. I’ll likely make my decision about two weeks out based on knowns at that time. I feel for the organizers, have paid my registration including the banquet, and bought a trophy package. I don’t want a refund if it cancels, just hoping it helps in some small way. If it doesn’t cancel, it’s just a choice we all have to make based on what we think the level of risk is for ourselves and others. I have my own ideas, and
    6 points
  2. The other alternative--one I favor, and one I've discussed on this forum before--is to limit out of box models to being just that--out of the box. Period. No added seat belts, rigging, spark plug wires, etc., unless it comes in the kit and is shown on the instruction sheet. Aftermarket decals should be allowed, but that's as far as it really should go. People then argue along the lines of "well, the model will seem to be lacking if I don't add seat belts" or "it won't be accurate if there are no railings" (that one still confuses me, since, last time I checked, accuracy was not a jud
    4 points
  3. Hi to all, I present my latest work performed with the MWP technique (Metal Work Panels) or with the complete covering of the model with aluminum panels (self-adhesive tape). This is the Hong Kong Models kit for the 1/32 scale B-25 J Mitchell 'The Strafer' model: the kit has been further improved with the following optional accessories: The version chosen (optional Zotz Decals) is the following: North American B-25 J Mitchell "Lady Lil" (correct nose for this version ) Hong Kong Models kit 1/32 scale model - version: 498thBs "Falcons"
    4 points
  4. "Why being required to wear a mask upsets so many, ....is such an unbearable burden....I will never understand." Agreed. It's meant to protect others, in case you're infected and don't know it. To me, not wearing a mask is like purposely farting in public, only with possibly fatal consequences.
    4 points
  5. OK, my previous post skirted the edge or trolling and I was told by others how rude and so forth that I was. I apologize for any offense I gave. No one was talking about it (the previous post on the subject was like 3 weeks prior) and I figured it would get some discussion going. It did. I was just a little too - as my fellow Phoenix chapter members remind me often - a little too curmudgeonly. We have to be realistic about whether or not the show can go on. As was just pointed out, work schedules, travel arrangements and not incurring a cancellation penalty at hotels and the like all come
    4 points
  6. For my next build I will be taking on the 1/48 Airfix Junkers JU-87B-1 Stuka. This was a World War II dive bomber use by Germany. I am not using the scheme in the kit. Instead the scheme will be that of the Staffelkapitan, 4th Staffel, Stukageshwader 77. It represents how it looked in June 1940 in France. I purchased the Eduard “Big ED” photo etch detail set (#49166) and will also be scratch building some other details. Starting with the cockpit I added the photo etch details to the ammunition cartridges. Then I detailed the seat with the photo etch seat belts. The cockpit floor required
    3 points
  7. There's one other lesson I've learned over the years about buying model kits...... My very first Nats was in Atlanta in 1978. I didn't even know they had a vendors area and sold models! Talk about the gates of heaven opening up for me..... Anyway, I found a 1/48 Aurora SBC Helldiver...at that time the ONLY game in town for that subject in 1/48, AND Aurora was "out of production". The guy wanted EIGHT DOLLARS for it!! Now remember, this is 1978....you could still occasionally find Aurora stuff on the shelves in old hardware stores and dime stores for their original prices of anywhere
    3 points
  8. This is the last aircraft model that I started and completed a few months back. It’s the old Monogram A-7B. I did a few add ons in the cockpit, and changed out some of the kit ordnance using Hasegawa items based off of photos that I found online. Markings are from a couple decal sheets that I cobbled together to build a VA-95 bird off USS Midway during Operation Linebacker in Spring and Summer of 1972.
    3 points
  9. Greetings All I did not want to highjack the Hasagawa Harrier Thread ,so here is my finished VMA 211 Wake Island Avenger. I had to install the gun pods as a Marine Aircraft without weapons seemed "Unnatural". This is probably my final aircraft for this collection. I have 7 Aircraft from the Wildcat thru the F-35 in collection. This is the Hasagawa kit with Super Scale decals,Resin Seat,Resin Exhaust vents, and Flying Leatherneck Det.- Cord. Two tone gray scheme with true Marine Tail.I used Gunze paints for colors and GX 100 clear for decal base and Mr Hobby Matt
    3 points
  10. The new 1/72 Airfix Gladiator is a real sweetheart of a kit. No flash and any mold seams are slight and easily dealt with. Fit is as with all new Airfix kits, precise to the point that you need to be very careful during clean up not to remove too much anywhere before checking. I did mine OOTB with the exception of using the S.B.S. rigging wire set. (#72046). It gives you a complete set of rigging all pre-made to the correct lengths. You do, however, need to pre-drill holes to receive the wires, so advanced planning is necessary. As they are made in a silver metal, I painted mine a darker meta
    3 points
  11. Gil. Will you QUIT already!! You are making the rest of us look bad. Love your work, BTW.
    3 points
  12. The eternal optimist, I'm waiting a couple more weeks before I cancel any reservations. Personally, I blame the French. I'm sure this is all a plot by them to destroy the Texas wine industry for remarks by a Texan about the quality of French wine during WWII. They have only waited this long to put off suspicion. Dak
    3 points
  13. David, I'm with you, unfortunately. I'm also disappointed in the weak response from Texas leaders...and this includes most local as well as State. Worse is the lack of common sense on the part of ordinary Texans. If the great majority had managed to rub two brain cells together, not only would this State be open and functioning, we wouldn't be having this discussion about the Nats. We'd be looking forward to a great time in San Marcos. Instead, a high percentage of Texans have demonstrated that they're at least one brain cell short of the number needed to rub together. And before anyone s
    3 points
  14. It is unquestionable that masks reduce the spread of microorganisms that exist on the secretions of the upper respiratory system. This has been known since the early 20th century in studying the epidemiology of tuberculosis and streptococcus- related disease, amongst others. At the same time, surgeons such as myself, as well as any other person in the operating theater, were mandated to wear a mask to prevent the projection of microorganism- laden secretions into the patient’s wound. Why wouldn’t it be effective in reducing the spread of this virus? Of course masks will not stop the disease. T
    3 points
  15. Dave, More testing is not causing more Covid cases. I know the powers that be in government would have us think so, but that is not the scientific realty. Testing is up 17% in Arizona. Covid cases are up 138%. Infection rate among those tested is 7.8% - that is a jump from 5.3%. That is most definitely not the result of more testing. This is a result of our opening up in Arizona way too early and few people taking precautions once we did. Florida the same. Texas is very, very similar. And the San Marcos area is a hotspot. As to the effects of Covid: some people have very mild symtoms
    3 points
  16. I am surprised that no one has posted this here or anywhere else on the the rules for the national convention. This is on the main home page of IPMS. It tells me that IPMS is aware for potential legal liability for injury resulting from catching Covid 19 by attending any contest or show and that the risk is higher than normal. Each of us needs to decide if the risk is worth it, but we stand warned. No complaining if you go and get sick. You have been warned. Going forward, the following disclaimer needs to be added to all show flyers as well as your posting on the IPMS/USA event pag
    3 points
  17. Gary and Jim are both mostly correct. But if it was personal risk only, it is a relatively simple ethical calculus. But when you consider the chance of also infecting others, (at the Convention or subsequently at home) you are in a sense asking them to take on the possible health consequences of a decision they were not involved in making. Each of us, when we risk exposure, are not just choosing for ourselves, but for everyone with whom we come in contact. And, to the observation: ‘But that means we need to avoid ANY non-essential contact and practice social distancing until there is a vacc
    3 points
  18. Hi, A few points and I will be quick. My comments are as a Modeler, IPMS Member, and a Vendor. Postpone the convention until 2023. Getting the already bought items like shirts, awards, etc for this years convention in 2023 would be a unique way to remember this time. So, all of it can be used and we all will have a great story to tell. Who here wants to take responsibility for someone healthy coming to the convention, getting the bug and either having the virus themselves or worse spreading it when they get home. Sure, some of you want to play fast and loose wit
    3 points
  19. Another idea: Instead of trying to change three convention dates and contracts, just change one. Leave Vegas and Omaha as they are. If 2020 gets cancelled, move it to 2023. If the hotel is forced to cancel 2020, that gets us off the hook in San Marcos. That “ get out of contract free” card is only applicable this year, so can’t be played in 2021 and 2022. We keep those dates and contracts, and are free to sign a new one in 2023.
    3 points
  20. This is the Platz 1:72 kit with Eduard photoetched interior panels, modified control columns, and True Details seats. I added wiring the seats, scratch-built the canopy piston housing and the canvas cover over the rear panel from CA-impregnated tissue paper, and cut the kit canopy. The wheel wells were detailed and the airbrakes were re-built and their bays were detailed. Anti-torque scissors were stolen from an F-80 photo etched sheet. The decals were sourced from 14 different sheets from Iliad, SuperScale, Fox One, AeroMaster, an Italeri B-66, and even a MicroScale railroad sheet. Weathering
    3 points
  21. Vinyl kits. Don't like the fish Dave
    2 points
  22. I’m calling this one finished. I built this as a quick project, with minor modifications, so as not to slow me down. I did not correct the rear suspension, which Academy molded as the A2 type, but then again, no one will see that on my display shelf. I painted in the 70’s era MASSTER scheme used in Europe by 7th Army units using Humbrol enamels. Markings are a mix of kit decals and decals from my decals drawer. I tried scratching up the antenna using telescoping brass to better replicate the tapered shape of those things, but it did not turn out as well as I wanted. Better luck next time I gue
    2 points
  23. Yep! Out of the Box should be strictly OOB that includes any crappy decals and therefore just a pure test of model building, painting and decal application. So David I am 100 percent with you on that one! Like you, many modellers build 90 percent OOB and add extra details to enhance their models. At SMW Telford that is classed as kit detailed or something very similar. I would imagine the US Nationals has a similar class category for this. The IPMS UK competition rules can be downloaded from their website if you want to have a look and make any comparisons out of pure interes
    2 points
  24. Recent build. I kit-bashed the B-29A and the KC-97G to create this KB-50J Superfortress, 420th ARS, RAF Sculthorpe, 1959. Decals are cobbeled together from the parts box and the wingtip hose pods are 136 gallon drop tanks from the Airfix 1/72nd scale P-51D. Tamiya acrylic paints and Future floor wax.
    2 points
  25. Mark, you have not stirred up a hornets nest, just asked a few questions for which you wanted answers. Basically you were looking for clarification about the OOB category about what is allowed or not, As Pete said that the tenet of the Nationals (and for that matter any other competition) is that people generally are honest and abide by the rules.
    2 points
  26. The Stuka is coming together very well. With the cockpit tub assembled I worked on the instrument panel and pedals assembly. The pedals are photo etch. This was attached to the instrument panel as well as the belly window. For details I mounted the window panel in the open position. The Inside of the fuselage was detailed with photo etch details, weathered, then assembled. There were only a few small areas that required some putty but overall the fit is very good. The wings, rudder and rear horizontal stabilizers were added and the control linkage photo etch parts were added. The kit incl
    2 points
  27. This week I worked on building and detailing the cockpit on the Stuka. Once the ejection holes were filled and sanded I added the photo etch details. Some reference photos I found online included a B-1 Stuka that was found in a forest and was getting ready to be restored at a museum. The photos show the cables and wiring had a yellow and white covering. I then added some yellow and white cables using 30 AWG wire. I routed them the same way the reference photos had them routed. The cockpit walls were then weathered using pastel chalk. The instrument panel was then detailed with photo etch
    2 points
  28. I wanted to post progress photos of my build of the Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito. It would be great to read comments on how I can improve. Several photos were posted in the “techniques“ forum where i received very productive comments and i have put an aircraft weathering how-to book and some weathering products on my wishlist for Xmas. There is a specific issue that i wanted to discuss (although there is nothing i can do about it now). The wheel/tire assembly consisted of many pieces in order to mimic the flat spot at ground contact. I took great care in putting all of it together. However,
    2 points
  29. Here's my latest completion: the FROG re-pop of the Academy F-16C Block 52. The kit's overly-pointy nose was replaced with a Wolf Pack nose. Also lending a hand was a Wolf Pack burner and tailpipe, Aires cockpit, CMK main gear bay, and Master Models pitot, AOA probes and static discharge wicks. To get a Night Vision Goggles-compatible canopy, I swapped the tinted kit canopy from one from an old Hasegawa kit. The paints were a mix of ModelMaster and Humbrol enamels. Weathering was applied with a Payne's gray sludge wash, followed by the application of fluid leaking with a Staedler .05mm pigment
    2 points
  30. Here's another trip down memory lane. This kit dates from 1970. For those not familiar with FROG, they were making wooden model aircraft kits as far back as the 1930's and were one of the first to transition to all plastic kits. The name, FROG, stands for "Flies Right Off the Ground", as most of their early rubber band powered models did. I had to do a little research as I knew very little about this a/c. It's got an Allison engine instead of the later Merlin and came with two 20mm cannons, although the British models exchanged these for four 50 cal. mgs. From what I read, it was not intended
    2 points
  31. Another oldie but good from Fantastic Plastic! From their site: In the mid-1950s, the U.S. Air Force flirted seriously with the idea of producing long-range strategic bombers powered by atomic energy. The main advantage of such a weapon would be its ability to stay aloft for weeks at a time, thus serving as the aerial counterpart to the Navy's fleet of nuclear-powered submarines. Jack Northrop, America's number-one proponent of "flying wing" aircraft, proposed several configurations for such an atomic-powered bomber. The most exotic of these was an asymmetrical design that p
    2 points
  32. Just about a year ago we as a society gathered in Chattanooga TN. The world has turned upside down since then. With all the modeling shows being cancelled. I would like to suggest that we take a look back and share some stories and pictures. It would be a great feeling to remember the fun and models. Looking forward till we meet again. RONBO. Head Bottle Washer.
    2 points
  33. This is a MACH 2 Plastic kit from 1992. It really shows its age as a challenge.Throw glue in ,shake around, glue comes back out crying like a baby.🤕 I will say my Photography has carried the day. No Photoshop other than correcting exposure issues. Lots of scratch built detail in the Clear cockpit that you can barely make out. Pilot sat in the center of the intake..What could go wrong ???? Thanks for Looking Comments Welcome Bill
    2 points
  34. Let there be light! This week’s work on the Thunderbolt II is installing the aircraft lights. Starting with the navigation lights there are five locations. The locations are the aft of the fuselage, each side of the tails, the dorsal light and the belly light. The kit provides a clear lens for the tail which is 1mm in diameter. So to start I drilled a 1mm hole all the way into the fuselage cavity. The clear lens was placed and then a 1mm fiber optic line was placed against it. For the belly light a 1mm hole was drilled and a piece of styrene stock was added to provide strain relief. I then us
    2 points
  35. Both of my metal F-104s together
    2 points
  36. This is from the old Airfix Refueling set. Between this model, with has the twin axel in the rear and the earlier Airfix Matador with the 5.5" gun, which has a single axel, you have all sorts of possibilities for conversions. This one, however, is pretty much OOTB. I did replace the rear doors out of sheet plastic as the kit ones would have looked out of armor plate. I also "busied up" the pumping equipment as that supplied with the kit is a little sparse. Only other additions are headlights, which the kit omits, and glazing for the windows.
    2 points
  37. I have finished the Mohawk. This was a difficult kit to build. The fit requires a lot of work especially the canopy sections. The decals were also difficult to get them to sit down. They did not soften easily with decal set/solvents. Even with a base coat of Future they did not adhere or conform well to the surface details. The photo etch and resin accessories worked and fit well. If you build one of these the instructions state to use 19 grams, you need closer to 24 grams to keep it from sitting on the tails. Aside from the difficult issues it is a good representation of a unique aircraft. Th
    2 points
  38. And here's how it looks when done.....seems the site is limiting how many I can post now... This model represents an A-18 Shrike II of the 13th Attack Squadron @1937.... Question, comments, and critiques welcome! Gil
    2 points
  39. 2 points
  40. Yeah, another completed aircraft build. I've said this before but I'll say it again so that everyone knows my abilities. I'm primarily a car builder. Been around cars/race cars my entire life so I know where everything goes. So, when it comes to building and detailing it pretty much comes natural. Aircraft, however, a whole different scenario. I have to do research for every build and hope that I get it right, or relatively close to right. The technical aspects of building aircraft are totally different than car/truck subjects. I am in total awe of so many aircraft builders and their abil
    2 points
  41. Wayne was not only the head aircraft judge, he was the Chief Judge of the National Contest for years. He basically created the system we have now. I learned how to judge while he was in charge. He was a great leader and a good man. Thank you, Wayne, for all you did.
    2 points
  42. Len, a big thank you to you and the San Marcos Convention team for all the hard work you put into this. We are all disappointed that there won’t be a 2020 Convention, but it was the right thing to do. We can all look forward to great conventions in Las Vegas, Omaha and San Marcos in 2021-2023. Mike
    2 points
  43. Again, I would like to hear something from the IPMS National leadership as well as the local Nats leadership. Why are they remaining absolutely silent? Totally irresponsible, especially our National leadership. No, I am not going - I cancelled - so I don't really have a horse in this race, but as a member of IPMS, I want to hear from our National leadership as to what their thinking is. Frankly, shame on them for their stonewalling.
    2 points
  44. Amazingly enough, I was only able to finish three models during this whole stay-at-home order during the past few months. I am finally able to get these posted. One is armor and will be posted there, but since it also came in the same box as one of these aircraft, I'm showing it here with that aircraft. I'll start with my Hasegawa Israeli F-16I Sufa in 1/72 scale: Next is the ancient Italeri German Go-244 Gotha transport aircraft in 1/72 scale: You can see the rear opens and closes
    2 points
  45. Your metaphor is faulty. If you suffer lung damage from inhaling too many paint fumes, it's terrible - but it isn't contagious to others. Wearing a mask in a pandemic is less to protect you than to protect OTHER PEOPLE. If I have to explain to you why it's important to care about other people, we really don't have anything to talk about.
    2 points
  46. I'm a big fan of Alclad's metallics - they get a really good shine without that grainy look of, say, a Tamiya Chrome Silver or something. Maybe grainy isn't the right word, but it's all I can come up with at the moment. Gil's right - put on a black gloss primer and make sure it's super smooth and shiny for best results. I haven't had any issues with the Alclad black primer. You may need to polish the primer coat a bit to get it nice and even, but the effect is worth it. I did some candy paint on a sci-fi model I built not too long ago, and the Alclad chrome really made the final color pop
    2 points
  47. Another step on my journey down the road of the old Aurora WW I kits. This is their DH-4. It comes with the four bladed prop instead of two and with the dual rear Lewis guns. That gun mount was disliked by the gunners as being bulky, hard to bring to bear and used up a LOT of ammunition. I added my usual basic interior, but the rest is OOTB.
    2 points
  48. I heard "if it ain't broke don't fix it" from my Dad starting about age 12. He was a mechanic and that was his frame of mind: cars either worked or were broke, and if they were broke you put them back the way the manufacturer built them. He sent me off to engineering school, where we learned that the people who designed things were constantly innovating and making tradeoffs trying to make things work better, because their competitors were doing the same thing. It's not obvious to me that everyone who didn't win would leave on Saturday morning. Many attendees would have already made trave
    2 points
  49. Here's a trip down memory lane for you modelers "of a certain age". This kit was first released in 1958 and It was state of the art at the time. It has decent engraved panel lines, was light on the rivets (but I sanded them off anyway), and had the embossed decal locators, which had to be removed. I replaced the gear doors as the kit ones were just too thick and the decals are cobbled together from my spares as the ones in the kit were much too yellowed to use. The finish is Alclad over some panels primed in flat and the rest in gloss black. It I could have produced this model and taken it to
    2 points
  50. Here is another 2020 completed build. This build started life as a Jimmy Flintstone resin body and interior and morphed into what you see here by utilizing a lot of scratchbuilding and kitbashing. I used more different materials on this from brass, resin, styrene sheet, old necklaces for chain, Bic pens for exhaust stacks and a little bit of 3D printed parts.
    2 points
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