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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/09/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Wayne taught me and many of the other Judges of my vintage how to judge. He always displayed tact and charm and a civilized, cultured demeanor. However, like the good soldier and leader that he was, he demanded excellence in modeling and judging. He inspired us to be discerning and scrupulous in examining every aspect of the model when judging. I recall some of his noteworthy and characteristically pithy aphorisms: “A hole ( cockpit, landing gear bay, bomb bay) is to look in.” “ The modeler finished before he was done.” Even more importantly, he demanded absolute integrity from his Judges. We all sought to be as wise and Solomon-like as Wayne. He was a courageous patriot and pilot. His courtly manner exemplified “an officer and a gentleman. “ His was a life well led. I consider myself fortunate to have been his student. I will always recall him with respect and fondness. Respectfully, Nick Filippone
  2. 2 points
    Wayne was not only the head aircraft judge, he was the Chief Judge of the National Contest for years. He basically created the system we have now. I learned how to judge while he was in charge. He was a great leader and a good man. Thank you, Wayne, for all you did.
  3. 2 points
    Looking Great Also on that Aircraft only using the VMA 211 "Wake Island Avengers... Will post after completion...Complete Dullcoat ??? Cheers Bill
  4. 1 point
    Very easy reservation process. Well done!
  5. 1 point
    Always on the lookout for the obscure, odd or prototype planes, I found this little gem on the pages of SAMI where the kit was being reviewed. Having gotten these models few times this way, a quick trip to eBay, and I had a choice of a number of these kits. The Sam-13 (Cam-13) was designed in pre-war Russia, and based around Renault 6 cylinder engines. One prototype was built. But this was destroyed as the Soviets fell back against the German invasion of the eastern front. The design was never revisited. It came with 2 sprues of gray plastic, one (mostly) clear canopy, a fret of PE, and a small sheet of decals. There was a few oops' along the way but all in all it was a fun kit. The instructions are the typical exploded views, where the exact location of some parts are hard to determine. The other issue with the kits was that the plastic was pretty fragile. I broke the back off the seat off twice, by apparently leaning on it too heavily. There were no locator pins so the parts wanted to wander until the glue set up. It wasn't mentioned but with that rear boom, I didn't want to take any chances, and added Liquid Gravity to keep it from being a tail sitter. The horizontal tail fin was a tight fit, and I should have done something about it. While it was drying, it popped out a little on one side and the glue dried that way. 😞 Lesson learned. Also after folding a piece of semi-large PE it jumped, hit the ground and was eaten. I actually laid on the floor looking for it to no avail. 😞 With no specific color call outs I used what I had. The gray was Vs Sky Gray and the blue was RLM 24. I did blacken the panel lines a bit with Vs NATO Black. The real plane was wooden so I left it with a matte clear coat. Sitting the canopy on the plane, I was amazed to see that the canopy was a perfect fit - until it came time to glue it on the the fuselage. What happened? 😞 After adding the landing gear I called it done. Thanks for looking.
  6. 1 point
    Well, the last time that I built a F-105G, I was in the 6th grade. Man, she’s a BIG one. A good friend of mine in our club gave this to me to build. It came in a box the size of a small suitcase. The assembly on this one is relatively straightforward. I’ve purchased an Aires cockpit, with all the Fixin’s. Chris
  7. 1 point
    Bob, Well done, well said. Looking forward to making a reservation on Wednesday.
  8. 1 point
    It wasn’t my fault! Gil made me do it! 🙀 LOL! Nick
  9. 1 point
    This next build is the1/48 Hasegawa AV-8B Harrier II Plus. It will be detailed with Eduard photo etch and the scheme is going to be the infamous VMF-214 Blacksheep. The squadron was started by Major Gregory Boyington back in World War II. The Blacksheep transitioned to the Harrier in 1989 and deployed to their home base of MCAS Iwakuni, Japan. The decal set is produced by Caracal decals (set # CD48115) I will be doing the blue tailed scheme from 2015. For the first week of work I started with the cockpit and added the photo etch details to the cockpit tub, ejection seat and instrument panel. With the details added they were all painted and assembled. I then detailed the cockpit walls which are part of the fuselage with photo etch panels. The cockpit tub was then installed into the forward fuselage section. The next detail was the vectored exhaust. The vanes inside were thick plastic. These were removed and photo etch vanes were added. I am now working on the rear part of the fuselage and detailing the intake section. So far the build is moving along very well. You can see more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-av-8b-harrier-ii-plus/
  10. 1 point
    Ron and Gil have both spoken monumental truth! I live in Florida too and opted for a CO2 tank. One of the best modelling moves I've ever made.
  11. 1 point
    Lovely build! I'd be happy to have that in my display case. Congrats! Gil
  12. 1 point
    I live in FLA and build in my garage year-round. Humidity is a problem 75% of the year. I've used water traps...but they're only partially successful in high humidity environments. The REAL solution is to switch to a tank of CO2. A 3ft high tank will allow you to paint 10-15 1/48 single engine prop models over a year, including the CO2 used to clean the brush. It's silent, eliminates any worries about moisture in your system, and you can exactly set the pressure to your airbrush. The down side? You CAN run out! But, there's plenty of warning as to when you're getting low, so if you run out, you've just been ignoring the signs to trade it in on a full tank for too long! Gil
  13. 1 point
    Beautiful work Paul! You nailed this!
  14. 1 point
    That is a sharp looking Mustang Paul. Congrats on a great build. Looking forward to more of your work. Chris
  15. 1 point
    Ok, stick a fork in this build cause I'm calling it done! I decided against doing a panel wash on this one, because I was too afraid I'd screw up the paint even using an acrylic wash. To be honest, I'm not sure it really needed one anyhow. Looking at the photos, there are a few decals I may treat with Mr. Marksofter to try to take care of some slight silvering, and I do need to fix one of the gear bay door position. But those are minor things that are more repairs than adding to the build. Overall, I'm fairly pleased with how this came out, especially since it's my first (completed) aircraft build and my first extensive bare metal finish. I like the lightly weathered look it's got, and I think it'll make a decent addition to the display case. Thanks to you all for the encouragement and advice!
  16. 1 point
    Hey all. Here are a few of my recently completed builds. The Revell 1/48 F-102, Bandi X-wing, two carrier tractors and two Hasegawa Egg Planes (F/A-18C and MV-22 Osprey).
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I am not sure if you can see the guts I put into the sensor turret. I cut some sprues and hollowed them and then cut some clear sprues and made lenses.
  19. 1 point
    Over the years, I've pretty much stayed away from figures all together, because of painting flesh. An arm or a hand exposed was ok, as long as the face was FULLY covered. About two years ago, I started incorporating figures in my dioramas. A friend of mine, in our local club, does mostly figures, painted strictly with artist oils. His results are amazing. He's given me quite a bit of info on how he does his. His main advice was to check on YouTube for tutorials. I decided to get my "feet wet", starting with acrylics (some enamels for the eyes). The bust was painted with a mixture of Vallejo, and AK Flesh and Skin Colors. The leather jacket was a custom mix of two different Tamiya browns. I would usually apply a wash to his jacket for depth. I instead decided to drybrush just the high areas. I used Testors Model Master bright brown first. After it dried, the high areas looked more bronze than anything. I toned it down Naples Yellow Hue (artist oils). The cord and emblems on his hat were painted with Tamiya flat aluminum. I applied a dark wash on these items after they dried. The yellow bead around his hat is Testors yellow. The brim of his hat was painted with Tamiya gloss black. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Chris
  20. 1 point
    Amazingly enough, I was only able to finish three models during this whole stay-at-home order during the past few months. I am finally able to get these posted. One is armor and will be posted there, but since it also came in the same box as one of these aircraft, I'm showing it here with that aircraft. I'll start with my Hasegawa Israeli F-16I Sufa in 1/72 scale: Next is the ancient Italeri German Go-244 Gotha transport aircraft in 1/72 scale: You can see the rear opens and closes. This is why: it comes with this little Kubelwagen kit as a load: More detailed shots of the Kubel will be in the armor section. Meanwhile, thanks for looking in here, comments are welcome.
  21. 1 point
    This is one of the Reaper miniatures, Joy the Ice Fairie. I primed with Tamiya Fine White, bock painted with MSP Color and Vallejo and shaded with oils. A fun figure to paint.
  22. 1 point
    Here is the last of three works I've started over the years, and finally got around to painting. The mounted figure I did about ten years ago and started working on the setting figure sometime later. Both figures are made out of recycled plastics. Most of the mounted figure is from an old HP printer case. There is a howto in this forum and I'll leave a link if anyone is interested.
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