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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/09/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Greetings All I did not want to highjack the Hasagawa Harrier Thread ,so here is my finished VMA 211 Wake Island Avenger. I had to install the gun pods as a Marine Aircraft without weapons seemed "Unnatural". This is probably my final aircraft for this collection. I have 7 Aircraft from the Wildcat thru the F-35 in collection. This is the Hasagawa kit with Super Scale decals,Resin Seat,Resin Exhaust vents, and Flying Leatherneck Det.- Cord. Two tone gray scheme with true Marine Tail.I used Gunze paints for colors and GX 100 clear for decal base and Mr Hobby Matt for final finish Last addition was the Resin FOD covers. The Hasegawa intake has too many issue to be left open and I like a little more colors these add to the aircraft. Thanks for Looking Comments Welcome Regards Bill
  2. 2 points
    The new 1/72 Airfix Gladiator is a real sweetheart of a kit. No flash and any mold seams are slight and easily dealt with. Fit is as with all new Airfix kits, precise to the point that you need to be very careful during clean up not to remove too much anywhere before checking. I did mine OOTB with the exception of using the S.B.S. rigging wire set. (#72046). It gives you a complete set of rigging all pre-made to the correct lengths. You do, however, need to pre-drill holes to receive the wires, so advanced planning is necessary. As they are made in a silver metal, I painted mine a darker metallic color before cutting them from the fret. Almost all the wires fit spot on, but a few needed a slight bit of tweaking, probably due more to my assembly technique than any error on their part. The only thing missing is the antennae. It would have been nice to get that as well, but it's either easily made or can be omitted entirely from some versions on the a/c. I did mine in the camo of the Swedish volunteer unit that flew for the Finns during their war with Russia. (P.S. Notice how I forgot to remove one of the pieces of masking from the left rear of the canopy. What a twit. Problem has since been solved.)
  3. 2 points
    Wayne taught me and many of the other Judges of my vintage how to judge. He always displayed tact and charm and a civilized, cultured demeanor. However, like the good soldier and leader that he was, he demanded excellence in modeling and judging. He inspired us to be discerning and scrupulous in examining every aspect of the model when judging. I recall some of his noteworthy and characteristically pithy aphorisms: “A hole ( cockpit, landing gear bay, bomb bay) is to look in.” “ The modeler finished before he was done.” Even more importantly, he demanded absolute integrity from his Judges. We all sought to be as wise and Solomon-like as Wayne. He was a courageous patriot and pilot. His courtly manner exemplified “an officer and a gentleman. “ His was a life well led. I consider myself fortunate to have been his student. I will always recall him with respect and fondness. Respectfully, Nick Filippone
  4. 2 points
    Wayne was not only the head aircraft judge, he was the Chief Judge of the National Contest for years. He basically created the system we have now. I learned how to judge while he was in charge. He was a great leader and a good man. Thank you, Wayne, for all you did.
  5. 2 points
    Looking Great Also on that Aircraft only using the VMA 211 "Wake Island Avengers... Will post after completion...Complete Dullcoat ??? Cheers Bill
  6. 1 point
    For my next build I will be building the Roden 1/48 OV-1C Mohawk. I will be detailing it with Eduard photo etch for the cockpit, exterior, and undercarriage as well as Quick Boost resin accessories like the exhaust, accurate propellers, and accurate scoops. This is one of the unique aircraft that you rarely see them built in scale models. Roden makes three versions in 1/48 the A, the C, and the D. I chose the C as it was the more widely used version during the Viet Nam war. The Mohawk's mission includes observation, artillery spotting, air control, emergency resupply, naval target spotting, liaison, and radiological monitoring. Built by Grumman in 1959, it was used for monitoring the DMZ in Korea then used during the Viet Nam war. It remained operational even during Desert Storm and until it was retired in 1996. Starting with the cockpit, I built up and detailed the seats with over 20 pieces of photo etch. The cockpit tub was then assembled and detailed and finally the instrument panel was detailed. The nose gear bay has photo etch details except where the wheel sits so I dug through my extra photo etch bin and located a panel that resembled the reference photo and installed it. I need to do a little more work on the nose gear and bay and look for areas to add some weight so it sits on the gear correctly once built. You can more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ov-1c-mohawk/
  7. 1 point
    The build continues on the OV-1C Mohawk. The first thing I did was to detail the nose gear bay with more photo etch so I could install the cockpit/nose gear assembly into the fuselage. Once done, I was able to assemble the fuselage together. The instructions call out to add 19 grams of weight to the nose so the model will sit on the gear rather than its tail. I actually added about 22 grams. Only 15 grams fit in the nose so I added the rest on the sides of the nose gear bay between the bay and fuselage wall. I then began work on the wings. The first step was to cut out the entire main gear bays as these were completely replaced with photo etch parts. The bays were then primed with white primer. The main struts were then detailed with photo etch details. The engine exhaust area was detailed with photo etch and the kit exhaust was replaced with the upgraded resin version. The resin version is a seamless casting and shaped a little better than the kit version. The exhaust was painted then weathered with pastel chalk. The wing halves were then put together and finally the main gear was installed onto the wings. Next up is the tails and fuselage detailing. You can see all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ov-1c-mohawk/
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    This next build is the1/48 Hasegawa AV-8B Harrier II Plus. It will be detailed with Eduard photo etch and the scheme is going to be the infamous VMF-214 Blacksheep. The squadron was started by Major Gregory Boyington back in World War II. The Blacksheep transitioned to the Harrier in 1989 and deployed to their home base of MCAS Iwakuni, Japan. The decal set is produced by Caracal decals (set # CD48115) I will be doing the blue tailed scheme from 2015. For the first week of work I started with the cockpit and added the photo etch details to the cockpit tub, ejection seat and instrument panel. With the details added they were all painted and assembled. I then detailed the cockpit walls which are part of the fuselage with photo etch panels. The cockpit tub was then installed into the forward fuselage section. The next detail was the vectored exhaust. The vanes inside were thick plastic. These were removed and photo etch vanes were added. I am now working on the rear part of the fuselage and detailing the intake section. So far the build is moving along very well. You can see more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-av-8b-harrier-ii-plus/
  10. 1 point
    I think one thing that's probably affecting the room reservations is the idea of WIVES and families going to the Vegas show, which in turn means a person such as myself will not be splitting a room with another attendee. Thus, two people who normally buddy up and use one room need two rooms, and so on, depending on the number of buddies being "split" for Vegas! Gil
  11. 1 point
    Now just put a couple drops of cinnamon essential oil down it's gullet. 🙂
  12. 1 point
    There’s gonna be a lot of models to judge! Nick
  13. 1 point
    Nick, even if that's the case, Vegas looks to be a big show! Maybe the biggest West Coast show ever. Way to go, Vegas!! And those of us who haven't booked yet (myself included) need not worry; Vega has just about the most hotel rooms of any city... there will be plenty of rooms, even if we have to drive a mile or so.
  14. 1 point
    Could it also be that some members, especially from different parts of the country, who might share a room under ordinary circumstances, might be social distancing by rooming alone? This would increase the rooms per registrant count. Who would dare to predict what the recommendations and requirements related to the pandemic will be even 13 months from now? I know I sound like a Cassandra and no one will be happier than I will be to be seen as having taken an unnecessary precaution, but unpredictability seems to be the only consistently predictable feature of Covid 19. One thing I am confident of is that we all want this National - and all the future Nationals- to go off without a hitch. Let’s all try to do whatever we can to control this pandemic, however inconvenient, in hopes of us all getting together again in Las Vegas! Nick Filippone
  15. 1 point
    Bob, glad to see the response was just about what I thought it might be. A lot of people very disappointed that San Marcos was canceled, so my guess is there is going to be some pent-up demand for this one. Also, the first time since Disney world in Florida that there was a reason for family members(spouse) to join the modeler. It is going to be a great show. I just hope you guys in Vegas don't get overwhelmed. This is going to be huge!
  16. 1 point
    Thanks for the info, Gil. I also have spent a lot of time at the museum in Dayton & have plenty of photos of the RF-86. I found the kit on ebay from a seller in Japan but, he wants $98.00 for it. Guess I'll keep it on the back burner for awhile.
  17. 1 point
    Room reservations can be made now! Visit www.natslv2021.com
  18. 1 point
    Very easy reservation process. Well done!
  19. 1 point
    Well, it's been a slow week so there's only a small update this time. I did manage to get the photo etch on the Redstone capsule; these panels make it into the Friendship 7: Later I shot that black, even though it doesn't show well in this pic: Sorry about the blurriness in that pic; the camera had a difficult time focusing on that capsule. Now for a gloss coat and then decals. Moving on, I stopped working on the rocket to get going on the tank transporters I've had languishing while I worked on the Abrams and Paladin. First off, I added more details to the HEMMTT tank transporter chassis. This was starting to take shape: After that, I built the engine and added it to the chassis, along with the exhaust and other platform framework: Once I got done with that, I assembled the cab for this truck. In the process of holding it together, I got some glue under my finger and smeared it all over the windscreen: Yeah, that looked really bad. So I disassembled the cab, removed the windscreen and went to work trying to fix it. After some persistent and constant sanding and polishing with ever higher grit levels (from 600 to 12000) I dipped it in Future to try and clear it even more. The final result isn't as great as I had hoped, but there's at least no sign of glue smear: Time to move on with that. Before I put it aside for the day, I dry-fit everything together that I had done: Moving on from there, I finally assembled the cab for the M-1070 tractor: After that, I wanted to build up the chassis and suspension to mount that cab on, so I built the first two axle sub-assemblies 'A' and 'B': Then I got called away so I put them both aside before I left. A couple days later, I return to start on this again and sub-assembly 'B' is gone! I tore the room apart for hours looking for it and finally gave up. I assembled the last two axle sub-assemblies 'C' and 'D' and cemented all three to the chassis frame. So now this will be the "light" version of this truck until I either find that sub-assembly or buy a whole new kit to replace it: Later I cut off the fenders to add to the chassis. One of them flat out broke when I tried cutting it off: It's like that hole on the left half was inside waiting for the any pressure to be applied so it could break! I glued it back together and added it to the chassis: Later I added Mr. Surfacer 500 to that crack, but not before this pic was taken. Here is the whole chassis with most of the extra parts added to it: Later I dry fit the cab to this to see how it would fit: It's gonna take some finagling, but it'll fit well. After that I can build the winch platform. Until then, I moved on and started the new Japanese Type 73 tank transporter. First was the chassis and engine which went together very fast and easy: There's still more detail parts to add to that,, but not before I get the cab mounted on it. So, I started the cab; building the interior first: Naturally I get everything done on this except the steering wheel. When I tried cutting that from the sprue, it tumbled down to the floor and disappeared. After another hour of frustrating search; I finally decided that it would not be noticeable enough once the cab was closed so to hell with it; I'm moving on! Life is too short and I have too many models to build to screw around with extra tiny pieces that refuse to stay on the table. I then added the windows to the cab and popped the interior in to see if my premise was correct. It certainly does not show unless someone really looks hard: Onward we go from here to start assembly on the trailer: After that I was ready to get back to tanks. Since the Missing Lynx was running the Churchill Group Build, I pulled out two Churchills from Dragon to get started on. First was the Churchill III AVRE, starting with the turret: That petard mortar was a real pain to build, but I got it done. Then I added the five parts to the upper hull that are supposed to go on it and then added the turret for the pic: After that, I built the lower hull and roadwheels: Here's a test fit after all that was done: There's still a bit more to do on that, not least of which is to add the tracks. Until then, I started the Churchill IV AVRE; building the turret: By that time it was late so I stopped until I have more time to build later. Until then, thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.
  20. 1 point
    Always on the lookout for the obscure, odd or prototype planes, I found this little gem on the pages of SAMI where the kit was being reviewed. Having gotten these models few times this way, a quick trip to eBay, and I had a choice of a number of these kits. The Sam-13 (Cam-13) was designed in pre-war Russia, and based around Renault 6 cylinder engines. One prototype was built. But this was destroyed as the Soviets fell back against the German invasion of the eastern front. The design was never revisited. It came with 2 sprues of gray plastic, one (mostly) clear canopy, a fret of PE, and a small sheet of decals. There was a few oops' along the way but all in all it was a fun kit. The instructions are the typical exploded views, where the exact location of some parts are hard to determine. The other issue with the kits was that the plastic was pretty fragile. I broke the back off the seat off twice, by apparently leaning on it too heavily. There were no locator pins so the parts wanted to wander until the glue set up. It wasn't mentioned but with that rear boom, I didn't want to take any chances, and added Liquid Gravity to keep it from being a tail sitter. The horizontal tail fin was a tight fit, and I should have done something about it. While it was drying, it popped out a little on one side and the glue dried that way. 😞 Lesson learned. Also after folding a piece of semi-large PE it jumped, hit the ground and was eaten. I actually laid on the floor looking for it to no avail. 😞 With no specific color call outs I used what I had. The gray was Vs Sky Gray and the blue was RLM 24. I did blacken the panel lines a bit with Vs NATO Black. The real plane was wooden so I left it with a matte clear coat. Sitting the canopy on the plane, I was amazed to see that the canopy was a perfect fit - until it came time to glue it on the the fuselage. What happened? 😞 After adding the landing gear I called it done. Thanks for looking.
  21. 1 point
    Well, the last time that I built a F-105G, I was in the 6th grade. Man, she’s a BIG one. A good friend of mine in our club gave this to me to build. It came in a box the size of a small suitcase. The assembly on this one is relatively straightforward. I’ve purchased an Aires cockpit, with all the Fixin’s. Chris
  22. 1 point
    Bob, Well done, well said. Looking forward to making a reservation on Wednesday.
  23. 1 point
    It wasn’t my fault! Gil made me do it! 🙀 LOL! Nick
  24. 1 point
    Yup, they snuck in. No link to hotel anymore. Guess I gotta wait 'til the 15th with all the rest.
  25. 1 point
    I also just made my reservation. Very easy. Gil, thank you for the heads-up! Regards, Nick
  26. 1 point
    Ron and Gil have both spoken monumental truth! I live in Florida too and opted for a CO2 tank. One of the best modelling moves I've ever made.
  27. 1 point
    Lovely build! I'd be happy to have that in my display case. Congrats! Gil
  28. 1 point
    I live in FLA and build in my garage year-round. Humidity is a problem 75% of the year. I've used water traps...but they're only partially successful in high humidity environments. The REAL solution is to switch to a tank of CO2. A 3ft high tank will allow you to paint 10-15 1/48 single engine prop models over a year, including the CO2 used to clean the brush. It's silent, eliminates any worries about moisture in your system, and you can exactly set the pressure to your airbrush. The down side? You CAN run out! But, there's plenty of warning as to when you're getting low, so if you run out, you've just been ignoring the signs to trade it in on a full tank for too long! Gil
  29. 1 point
    Beautiful work Paul! You nailed this!
  30. 1 point
    That is a sharp looking Mustang Paul. Congrats on a great build. Looking forward to more of your work. Chris
  31. 1 point
    Ok, stick a fork in this build cause I'm calling it done! I decided against doing a panel wash on this one, because I was too afraid I'd screw up the paint even using an acrylic wash. To be honest, I'm not sure it really needed one anyhow. Looking at the photos, there are a few decals I may treat with Mr. Marksofter to try to take care of some slight silvering, and I do need to fix one of the gear bay door position. But those are minor things that are more repairs than adding to the build. Overall, I'm fairly pleased with how this came out, especially since it's my first (completed) aircraft build and my first extensive bare metal finish. I like the lightly weathered look it's got, and I think it'll make a decent addition to the display case. Thanks to you all for the encouragement and advice!
  32. 1 point
    Awesome work! That looks magnificent!
  33. 1 point
    Hey all. Here are a few of my recently completed builds. The Revell 1/48 F-102, Bandi X-wing, two carrier tractors and two Hasegawa Egg Planes (F/A-18C and MV-22 Osprey).
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    I am not sure if you can see the guts I put into the sensor turret. I cut some sprues and hollowed them and then cut some clear sprues and made lenses.
  36. 1 point
    Over the years, I've pretty much stayed away from figures all together, because of painting flesh. An arm or a hand exposed was ok, as long as the face was FULLY covered. About two years ago, I started incorporating figures in my dioramas. A friend of mine, in our local club, does mostly figures, painted strictly with artist oils. His results are amazing. He's given me quite a bit of info on how he does his. His main advice was to check on YouTube for tutorials. I decided to get my "feet wet", starting with acrylics (some enamels for the eyes). The bust was painted with a mixture of Vallejo, and AK Flesh and Skin Colors. The leather jacket was a custom mix of two different Tamiya browns. I would usually apply a wash to his jacket for depth. I instead decided to drybrush just the high areas. I used Testors Model Master bright brown first. After it dried, the high areas looked more bronze than anything. I toned it down Naples Yellow Hue (artist oils). The cord and emblems on his hat were painted with Tamiya flat aluminum. I applied a dark wash on these items after they dried. The yellow bead around his hat is Testors yellow. The brim of his hat was painted with Tamiya gloss black. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Chris
  37. 1 point
    Amazingly enough, I was only able to finish three models during this whole stay-at-home order during the past few months. I am finally able to get these posted. One is armor and will be posted there, but since it also came in the same box as one of these aircraft, I'm showing it here with that aircraft. I'll start with my Hasegawa Israeli F-16I Sufa in 1/72 scale: Next is the ancient Italeri German Go-244 Gotha transport aircraft in 1/72 scale: You can see the rear opens and closes. This is why: it comes with this little Kubelwagen kit as a load: More detailed shots of the Kubel will be in the armor section. Meanwhile, thanks for looking in here, comments are welcome.
  38. 1 point
    This is one of the Reaper miniatures, Joy the Ice Fairie. I primed with Tamiya Fine White, bock painted with MSP Color and Vallejo and shaded with oils. A fun figure to paint.
  39. 1 point
    Here is the last of three works I've started over the years, and finally got around to painting. The mounted figure I did about ten years ago and started working on the setting figure sometime later. Both figures are made out of recycled plastics. Most of the mounted figure is from an old HP printer case. There is a howto in this forum and I'll leave a link if anyone is interested.
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