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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/2022 in Posts

  1. Don't ever let anyone tell you your work is not IPMS compatible.
    2 points
  2. I jacked an F-105 for tire changes many times. The main gear door had a small door you opened to expose the axle. Then you plugged in an adapter which was in turn used to lift the axle. The tire was inside under the wing, but first you removed a retaining spanner then the axle nut. An old grease ring came off, then the wheel/tire as a single item. Reverse the process to mount the new tire. To change a nose tire you put a collar around the oleo to keep it from extending, then jacked it on a spot on the bottom of the fuselage. The axle was unbolted allowing the tire/wheel set to taken off and the new assembly slid on, then replaced. Both main or nose tire changes were no more than a 20 minute jobs AFTER you took a tow vehicle to supply and come back with the new tire
    1 point
  3. Very nicely done David. I had to do one as part of a Secret Santa build. Yep, the first thing I did was sand the rivets off. Makes all the difference in the world, doesn't it. You talk about having problems with the windows. I was told of a technique I find very effective. Use clear epoxy, the laminating kind. It can be found in most any craft store. This is what I used, though there are other brands. https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Clay-Molding-Sculpting/Casting/EasyCast-Casting-Epoxy/p/27003?msclkid=4d833c0669971f5ee5945e5541ab61bb&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping-Catch All&utm_term=4579534652838142&utm_content=Crafts Hobbies-Clay Molding Sculpting Take some clear packing tape - if you can find the end on the roll. Not touching the adhesive, place it over the windows you want to fill. The Hudson side windows are a prime example. Work the tape down good and tight. Mix up some epoxy and, from the inside, drop it into the window cavity, eliminating any bubbles. I use round toothpicks with a little cut off the end for this. Fill the cavity and set the part up to cure, with the windows as level as possible. Walk away. At room temperature, it will cure in 24 hours or so. Pull the tape off and presto-chango, you have form fitting clear window. It took several sessions, but I did the nose windows also, except for the one spanning both fuselage halves. I find it amazing that the sticky side of the tape produces such clear windows and pulls off easily. Oh, yeah. Should you need to, the epoxy can be sanded and polished out. Another note. The light color ring around the windows is the primer I used. Have not licked that problem yet.
    1 point
  4. I'm a bit of a throw-back and go old school with stretched sprue. Heat it, stretch it to the appropriate thickness, let it cool, cut it a tiny bit longer than needed, glue into place with a drop of white glue. When dry, if it is sagging, put a toothpick in a candle flame and let it light. Blow it out and then place the rigging line into the smoke (or visa versa). Slowly draw closer until the sprue snaps tight. Get too close and it melts, but it's easy to start over and no harm done. Some sprue stretches better than others and maybe best of all, it comes in all sorts of colors. This is the 1/72 Contrail Vacuform Wildebeest.
    1 point
  5. Here they are in the order they are shown in my Completed Models Gallery, starting in January. I''ll be posting the pics that look the best so some will be different: Australian M-113 APC: Russian BTR-70 Early: Russian BTR-70 Late: Ukrainian BTR-3K: US Army M-5 Stuart: US Army M-551 Sheridan: Israeli M-51 Isherman: Now in February, I completed just this one: US Army O-1 Bird Dog: In March, I completed these: Canadian Leopard 1A3: Russian 2S19 MSTA: US Army D-9 Bulldozer: In April I completed these: Russian BRDM-1 with AT-1 Snapper ATGW: US Army (captured) Olympia Sedan: Skipping ahead to June where I had a really productive month. I completed all these: British FV-432 APC: British Chieftain Mk.5: British Chieftain Mk.10: British Chieftain Mk.11: British WWI era Type B Omnibus "Ole Bill": British Type B Omnibus LGOC: US Army M-109A2 Paladin: US Army M-109A6 Paladin: Japanese WWII Isuzu Fuel Truck: British WWI Mk.1 Female, Gaza Strip: Israeli Nagmasho't Heavy APC: Israeli Nagmashon Heavy APC: Israeli Centurion Sho't Meteor: My next one finished was in July: My one and only 1/35th scale M-48A3 Patton tank built for the SoCal AMPS Patton Group Build: The next one I completed was in September: My 1/72 scale Antonov An-124 'Ruslan' NATO Code name: Condor: In October I finished these: US Army M-41 Walker Bulldog: Australian Centurion Mk.5 LR: British Centurion Mk.5: British FV-4005 "JS Killer": Finally in December I finished up all these to round out the year: US Army M-1240 M-ATV: French AMX VCI APC: Japanese Type 96 Wheeled APC A: Japanese Type 96 Wheeled APC B: Italian Centauro B1T: Israeli Centurion Sho't Kal Alef: Fokker F-27 Friendship: And finally, the JMSDF Carrier Izumo: And that wraps up my 2021 modeling year. Forty models finished for the year; not bad, but still under my old average. Regardless, I'm thrilled to have gotten all these done! Thank all for looking in, comments are welcome.
    1 point
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