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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/2021 in all areas

  1. When I started building this kit I decided to re-scribe the model and it went well for a while. As I progressed AMS got hold of me because I felt some of the panel lines weren't perfect and so I put it away. Then one day I just said phooey to AMS and started building as is. So here is the A-20 out of the box that AMS caused so much anxiety.
    1 point
  2. I got this kit in a grab bag of kits I bought. It's from the 1956 molds and even had the pilot's head molded in halves integral to the fuselage sides. There are many inaccuracies and omissions, so to build it 'right' would be a real waste of time as there are now many other much better representations, including Airfix's own excellent re-tooled one. But I decided to do it just for fun, so I did it as a desk model and since it was to be in flight, I added the 'spinning' prop. I also rigged it, which was not called for in the instructions, and added the antenna, which you may notice is the wrong configuration, but since there were so many other 'problems' and it was simpler to do this way, I settled for it amongst all the other inaccuracies, which includes the markings. The kit's decals were useless, so I got some out of the spares box. They actually belong to a Hawker Fury of First Squadron, but hey, in for a penny in for a pound, inaccuracy-wise.
    1 point
  3. Airfix Stug I've built this kit several times. This is the latest version; I suppose it should be painted dark yellow. It is out of box except for the machine gun, which I later learned were stored inside. I used to staple the tracks together but I did learn by trial and error that one can glue the tracks with brute force using superglue (CA glue) and a pair of needle nose pliers. Glue the two ends together with superglue and with a firm grip hold down the ends with the pliers for about 30 seconds. It works. On the kit the level of detail is quite good for such a tiny model and with careful and delicate weathering one can bring it out. I used the yellowed kit decals which worked well. The road wheels are a bit of unusual in that some seem to have slightly different detail. I think it's due to the age of the tooling. Well here's my little Stug ready to save a squad of infantry.
    1 point
  4. Classic Kit: Airfix A-20 Havoc (1962) This is the classic A-20 first issued in 1962. It is built out of the box with only a couple of additions, namely a shim on the dorsal fuselage halves. The top fuselage is too thin as molded. Also I added guns on the nose. It is marked with an old ESCI decal sheet. I did not use putty on the wing joins. Since the nose clear parts were worn and thick I decided to use thin strips of tape for the framing. I used Model Master paints. Any info on the real aircraft and pilot is appreciated.
    1 point
  5. And they're fini! The Tamiya short nosed FW-190A3, OOTB, and in kit markings... And the classic Monogram FW-190A6 (with a few enhancements) using Aeromaster decals for Hermann Graf's Butcher Bird.... I'm satisfied with my initial attempt to shake off the rust and do some "real" airbrush camo, though it also taught me I have a ways to go before I can get the most from my new airbrush. Questions, comments, and critiques welcome as always. Thanks for playing along! Gil
    1 point
  6. As the Brits say, I got the models "deckled" today........ Tamiya kit decals were used on the green one, while the gray one got markings from Aeromaster. I used hot water to help the Tamiya decals soften up and go down easier and they worked well. The Aeormaster decals needed more care in handling since they were thinner, but also went down well. I was actually quite impressed with how they snuggled down around the nose with a copius application of Champ decal solvent. The models have had all but the seats, props, and rear canopies added and have been flat coated so I can take them to my meeting tomorrow "done". This should be finished up tomorrow evening! Gil
    1 point
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