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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/2020 in all areas

  1. This is one of the Reaper miniatures, Joy the Ice Fairie. I primed with Tamiya Fine White, bock painted with MSP Color and Vallejo and shaded with oils. A fun figure to paint.
    1 point
  2. Ron and Gil have both spoken monumental truth! I live in Florida too and opted for a CO2 tank. One of the best modelling moves I've ever made.
    1 point
  3. I live in FLA and build in my garage year-round. Humidity is a problem 75% of the year. I've used water traps...but they're only partially successful in high humidity environments. The REAL solution is to switch to a tank of CO2. A 3ft high tank will allow you to paint 10-15 1/48 single engine prop models over a year, including the CO2 used to clean the brush. It's silent, eliminates any worries about moisture in your system, and you can exactly set the pressure to your airbrush. The down side? You CAN run out! But, there's plenty of warning as to when you're getting low, so if you run out, you've just been ignoring the signs to trade it in on a full tank for too long! Gil
    1 point
  4. Hey all. Here are a few of my recently completed builds. The Revell 1/48 F-102, Bandi X-wing, two carrier tractors and two Hasegawa Egg Planes (F/A-18C and MV-22 Osprey).
    1 point
  5. Over the years, I've pretty much stayed away from figures all together, because of painting flesh. An arm or a hand exposed was ok, as long as the face was FULLY covered. About two years ago, I started incorporating figures in my dioramas. A friend of mine, in our local club, does mostly figures, painted strictly with artist oils. His results are amazing. He's given me quite a bit of info on how he does his. His main advice was to check on YouTube for tutorials. I decided to get my "feet wet", starting with acrylics (some enamels for the eyes). The bust was painted with a mixture of Vallejo, and AK Flesh and Skin Colors. The leather jacket was a custom mix of two different Tamiya browns. I would usually apply a wash to his jacket for depth. I instead decided to drybrush just the high areas. I used Testors Model Master bright brown first. After it dried, the high areas looked more bronze than anything. I toned it down Naples Yellow Hue (artist oils). The cord and emblems on his hat were painted with Tamiya flat aluminum. I applied a dark wash on these items after they dried. The yellow bead around his hat is Testors yellow. The brim of his hat was painted with Tamiya gloss black. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Chris
    1 point
  6. Amazingly enough, I was only able to finish three models during this whole stay-at-home order during the past few months. I am finally able to get these posted. One is armor and will be posted there, but since it also came in the same box as one of these aircraft, I'm showing it here with that aircraft. I'll start with my Hasegawa Israeli F-16I Sufa in 1/72 scale: Next is the ancient Italeri German Go-244 Gotha transport aircraft in 1/72 scale: You can see the rear opens and closes. This is why: it comes with this little Kubelwagen kit as a load: More detailed shots of the Kubel will be in the armor section. Meanwhile, thanks for looking in here, comments are welcome.
    1 point
  7. Here is the last of three works I've started over the years, and finally got around to painting. The mounted figure I did about ten years ago and started working on the setting figure sometime later. Both figures are made out of recycled plastics. Most of the mounted figure is from an old HP printer case. There is a howto in this forum and I'll leave a link if anyone is interested.
    1 point
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