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  1. 2 points
    My model is the Italeri 1/72 scale Fiat CR-32 Chirri." It represents an aircraft assigned to XXIII Grupo Caccia, Aviazione Legionaria. The unit was led by Lieutenant Colonel Andrea Zotti and based at Puig Moreno, Spain, June-July 1938. The unit formed part of the Italian contingent fighting for the Nationalist cause during the Spanish Civil War. I used the Osprey Fiat CR-32 Aces of the Spanish Civil War (Aircraft of the Aces 94) for inspiration; profile 28. I wanted to model Zotti's aircraft; he flew "3-4", but I only had the decals for "3-6". The model was built out-of-the-box except for the rigging. Took me 3-months to figure out I can't paint Italian camouflage with an airbrush freehand and another 3-months and a lot of Tamiya tape to manage that effort. I enjoyed the build; never worked harder to complete a model...
  2. 2 points
    Kudos for one of the Head Judges and NCC member for monitoring and stepping up to answer a rules question in a concise manner. This gives us an authoritative determination of the rule, as opposed to the rest of us offering our opinions. I hope more Head Judges follow this example! GIL
  3. 2 points
    It's now halfway through March and I'm finally able to post something finished. These are my two latest finished armor models . This first one is of the Military Wheels 1/72 scale Soviet SG-122. It's a 122mm cannon mounted on a PzIII chassis and hull and covered with a casemate. It was a stopgap project that only had a bout a hundred or so built before the SU-122 was accepted: The next one is the Trumpeter 1/72 scale Russian SA-6 Gainful. I made this as an East German machine that was repainted with the West German insignia after the German re-unification: My apologies for the poor pics. These look better in person. Well, that's all I have completed so far. Stay tuned, I have more to come.
  4. 2 points
    Here’s an original that I stripped and rebuilt as best I could, then re-painted.
  5. 1 point
    My name is Oliver. I am a new member. Heres what i working on. Happy to be part of the IPMS forum family. Oliver
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    This is the start of the Hasegawa 1/48 F-22 Raptor. I will also be using Ares resin cockpit and Eduard photo etch to detail this kit. The F-22 Raptor is fourth generation in stealth aircraft technology by the USAF. It is the first operational aircraft to combine super cruise, super maneuverability, stealth, and sensor fusion in a single weapons platform. The Ares resin cockpit required the removal of the dash hood/HUD panel so that it can be replaced by the resin part. The nice thing about resin parts is they have much better detail than the injected plastic kit parts. The cockpit tub just required a couple of photo etch parts like the pedals and levers then was painted. For the resin dash I found a photo of the F-22 dashboard for the F-22 simulator. Using Adobe Photoshop I cut and sized the screens to make decals for the resin dash. Once the decals were applied and coat with clear gloss, the dash buttons and controls were painted. The ejection seat was painted and detailed with the Eduard photo etch parts. After installing the seat into the cockpit tub the cockpit was weathered with dark gray pastel chalk. The dash was then installed into the fuselage and resin details were added to the fuselage for the canopy mating hooks. Next I will be working on the main bomb bay section. For more photos see my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-22-raptor/
  8. 1 point
    Continuing onward this week I am working on the main landing gear bays. After locating reference photos on Google, I started by drilling many, many holes to install the numerous hydraulic lines. Using a .09 drill bit I drilled out the many locations where the lines go to. I then took 32 awg wire and ran the individual lines. I then added the electrical cables and routed them. Still have a couple of more lines to run then need to do all the yellow and blue connections and holders on the lines. Then I can weather and highlight the bays. See all the photos from start at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-22-raptor/
  9. 1 point
    Thanks guys! Gil: Stubo is short for Sturzbomber or dive-bomber . I would have been used to carry one 1000kg bomb. There was a stubbier one - Stubo I - that would have carried a 500kg bomb.
  10. 1 point
    This was a model I've wanted to get out of my stack for a while. The Stubo II is a Fantastic Plastic offering, that comes back in stock every once in a while. It's another one of the German WW2 planes that never made it off the drawing board. I *really* like this genre! 🙂 The kit comes in 14 parts including a seat and stick, which you'll never see, and I left out. The canopy is clear but following the directions, the majority of it gets painted. Being cast by Anigrand, you know you are getting a good kit. As usual, the parts went together with minimal effort. One thing I noticed with this kit is if the fuselage holes don't match the pins in the wings - swap the wings, don't clip the pins. They are made to fit only to one side. Cool idea! A lil seam filling. The process continued effortlessly, and a coat of white paint, for the fuselage, and V. Game Color Gory Red, was the shade of red I chose. Then it was time for the decals. The decals went on just as effortless as the rest of the build. After a short wait the Micro-Sol went on and suck the decals into all the panel lines perfectly. It was here that I noticed that there was no decal for the gun placement. It wasn't sculpted into the fuselage, so I thought it was a decal. Looking closely at the instruction sheet, it says the model was created after the original which didn't have guns. So if I wanted I could carve wells into the fuselage (THAT wasn't going to happen) or I could create a decals for it. Umm, didn't the FP guy create decals for his? Why couldn't his design be added to the decals sheet? Even if it added another $1 to the price of the kit, I'd pay it. Having no ability to create a drawing for a decal, mine will do without. Hard to see - the skid also went in place with no problems. Looking back one thing I should have done that I didn't was paint the inside of the canopy. With the white paint on the outside and the light tan resin showing on the inside, the windows almost disappear. I'll have to keep that in mind for the next time. While I was waiting for the clear coat covering the decals to dry I went apart creating a base for it. It consists of a square of foam that it coated in DAPs Plastic Wood. I started out using a spatula, but it seemed to go on faster and smoother with just a wet finger. Being the craft just has one landing skid, I created a mini sawhorse to level the plane for display. All done. Thanks for looking. I used Chinchilla Dust for the dirt. Is much more in scale than regular sand.
  11. 1 point
    After some marathon building over the past couple days, I finally have a few models to show. These are my armor models completed as of yesterday. I have eight of them finally done. First is the 1/72 scale ACE Italian 508CN Coloniale Staff car: My apologies for the poor pics. This is a tiny one and I seemed to have had a tough time keeping steady on this one. In keeping with the theme of tiny vehicles and such, here is my 1/72 scale Airfix British Airborne Jeep from the British Airborne Set: It also came with a pallet to land this thing from aircraft. Here it is sitting on that pallet: This Jeep above was also equipped with a trailer: It was also equipped with a 75mm Pack Howitzer to assist airborne troops with artillery support: Here is the whole British Airborne Set together: Next up, my Japanese Army takes delivery of the 1/72 scale IBG Type 3 Chi Nu Medium Tank: And finally, my Russian Army has taken delivery of three new vehicles. This first one is the 1/72 scale ACE BREM recovery vehicle: It doesn't show well in these pics, but that hook is painted a steel color. I don't know why it shows up this way. Moving on, I also finished up the 1/72 scale Takom MAZ-537 Tractor: Also, in that same kit was the 1/72 scale Takom KZKT-537 Tractor: And that completes my latest run of models for April. I might even have more finished in a week or three. Stay tuned and thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.
  12. 1 point
    David, FWIW, this survey has nothing to do whatsoever with IPMS/USA switching to GSB. It is merely an informational survey that the E-board asked several members put together to provide an accurate and up-to-date accounting of the memberships' judging preference. It's been a good five years since the last GSB/123 survey was done and the E-board felt it was time for another. IMHO, it should be done every five years since the membership constantly changes.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks Bob! I do enjoy doing commissions as long as I don't have a lot of them to do at the same time. I have also surprised people with models that they never saw coming. One was a Navy nurse who was at Pearl Harbor in WWII on board the USS Mercy, and another was a stage manager for our production of "Ragtime". She got a model of a Model T Ford like the one Coalhouse drove in the show.
  14. 1 point
    Maybe instead of an abstain selection, maybe there could be a "No preference" vote for those who don't care which system is used as long as awards are being offered for competition. I for one really have no preference for the system used; I would enjoy the contest either way. Something to consider.
  15. 1 point
    Very nice, the work is great
  16. 1 point
    Ok, they must have some time on their hands at the museum today. This is the second video release in the last hour.
  17. 1 point
    I follow the Air Force museum Face book page and they just posted this video of the cockpit of their 262. I was somewhat taken back by the simplicity of it. I suppose that is because I am more use to cockpits that have more Nav/aids. At any rate, enjoy.
  18. 1 point
    John.....This is just a personal guess, but my understanding is that the purpose is to find out whether GSB or 1-2-3 is preferred among those who DO care. After all, if you have no strong opinion, you're going to simply go with the flow when you attend, and aren't necessarily interested in the direction of IPMS over the next decade (and probably aren't voting in the first place). If you believe that one or the other is better for IPMS, or if you simply like one better than the other, then your vote needs to be recorded one way or the other. As for having it as needed to actually place a vote in order to vote in the general election, I think that's meant to (again) avoid apathy. Only a fraction of the membership will vote either on-line or by mail. If you allow people to abstain or cast a "don't care" vote; IPMS learns nothing as to the preferences of 1-2-3 vs. GSB. I can see where some people like yourself feel like they're being forced to enter into a fight they don't care about. But, I think if you stop and consider it more as a referendum on whether we should change for the future or continue with the status quo for the future; you can come to an easy decision personally. GIL
  19. 1 point
    Hi Joe Rule I.3 states (emphasis is mine): "Prior Winners. Models that have won First-, Second-, or Third-place, or Outof-the-Box awards in any category of any previous IPMS/USA National Model Contest may not be entered in any subsequent IPMS/USA National Model Contest for awards, except as provided in Section II, Rule 19 (last sentence) and Section III, Rules 5--7. Previous award winners can be used as noted in Dioramas, Collections, Triathlon and Group entries. Models that have won an award as part of a Collection, Triathlon or Group entry may also be entered individually in subsequent National Contests. However, models that have won individually, and as part of a Collection, Triathlon or Group entry, are not eligible for subsequent National Contests." Note that there is no exception for Juniors moving up to Standard categories in subsequent years. There is the qualifier in Rule I.2 that a Junior entrant may choose to enter any or all of his entries [for that year] in the Standard categories. Your son's model, and I am assuming we are talking about his excellent Perry frigate from the Omaha show, may be entered for an award as part of a diorama/vignette (II.19) or as part of a Trathalon, Collection, or Group Entry (III.5-7). It may also be shown as a Display Only entry. I hope this answers your question. Ed Grune NCC Head Ship Judge
  20. 1 point
    Spring snow storm update! Yes it is spring and the middle of April but I think someone forgot to tell Mother Nature. Snowing like crazy here. So spent the day finishing the weapons bays and starting on the landing gear bays. The front landing gear bay is done. I added some wiring and hydraulic lines as well. I drew out the shape and laid out the wires then CA glued them together then fit them inside the bay. The photo etch supplied the wall details. I then glued the weapons and nose landing gear bay into the lower half of the fuselage. Next moving to the main gear then the engines. More photos at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-22-raptor/
  21. 1 point
    That's some fantastic looking detailing! GIL
  22. 1 point
    Weekly update on the Raptor, I started on the weapons bays. First the main bays. I found a photo on Google that gave me a close look at them. Using 32 awg wire with black sleeving I shaped the harness and used CA glue to join them together. I was looking thru my scrap photo etch items to find something I can use for the harness ties. I taped the photo to the wall for reference then realized the blue painters tape was an exact match to the color of the harness ties! I then cut small strips and wrapped them along the harness. Once all the wire harness’ were built and installed I stripped some wire and used the bare wire to simulate the hydraulic lines. I made my own fittings and ran the lines to the individual launchers as well as left some hanging for when I attach the doors. I added some weathering and used a black colored pencil to color in some of the fine wires. Next I started on the starboard missile bay. Eduard provided some photo etch parts for the avionics and I then drilled and installed the wires for each. Still need to do some fine details on the missile rail then I can repeat the process for the port missile bay. You can see all the other photos in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-22-raptor/
  23. 1 point
    You should contact Marie, our office manager, who handles membership to make sure she has your address, etc. correct. Reach her at manager@ipmsusa.org
  24. 1 point
    Thanks guys! I had to make one fix, and it is done. I'll post the pics for it soon.
  25. 1 point
    Here’s another save from someone’s childhood (before pic at end). Stripped, fixed in spots and 100% hand painted back to glory...no airbrushing here. Here’s a few progress pics. Tks for looking and your comments are welcome.
  26. 1 point
    I could have titled this post as "The Rest of the Story." In the November/December 2018 issue of the IPMS Journal, my article on building the AMT 1/25 kit of the 1972 Chevrolet Blazer was printed. Along with the story of building the Blazer, there was a secondary short amount of text on building the MPC Car Trailer as found in the old MPC 1973 Chevrolet Caprice Classic and a brief comment on the car that would be on the trailer. In the magazine, you saw this picture: Now you get to see what was missing . . . because it wasn't done. Now it is. Comments welcome. Ed
  27. 1 point
    Beautiful work man! This is going to be a blast to follow! You did a sensational job on that front office. Way to go!
  28. 1 point
    The Italeri 1/48 F7F-3 Tigercat is complete. The HVAR’s have been replaced with Eduard Brassin rockets. These look way better than the kit rockets. The photo etch mounts look great as well. I then built the base using Tamiya’s accessories, the oil barrel with crate from the kit, resin wheel chocks, and a Scene-A-Rama kit that I found at a local arts and crafts store. The Scene-a-Rama comes with many nice features. It has grass mats, bushes, trees, gravel, and many other items. I did have to purchase the sand mat separately. I bought a wood base and using contact cement spray I attached the sand mat and trimmed the edges. Using the white glue in the kit I put a coat of white glue on the edges and on the edge of the sand mat. I sprinkled the road gravel and built up the area behind the barrels and gas cans. I painted the oil barrel black and the crate green drab then weathered with light and rust pastel chalk. The Tamiya fuel barrels and gas cans were painted olive drab and weathered the same way. The folded tarp was painted desert tan with dark tan in the folds. This was then weathered with tan light tan and brown pastel chalk. I used 80 lbs test braided fishing line to create the rope and weathered with dark gray pastel chalk. The resin wheel chocks were painted safety yellow. To keep the aircraft stable and mounted to the base, I use 28 awg wire and drilled a hole in the bottom of each wheel. Then I drilled corresponding holes into the base. I used CA glue to glue the wire posts to the base. The white glue from the kit was used to attach the other accessories. As for this build, I really like how this came out. Aside from the weight issue trying to keep it from tail dragging and the poor kit HVAR’s this was a nice kit to build. The decals were very good. If you build this kit the only other thing I would like to note is the main landing gear is a little tricky getting mounted. It takes some tedious work to get it inside the bay and lined up. Overall it presents great. Thanks for following along. On to the photos! See the entire build from start to finish at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f7f-3-tigercat/
  29. 1 point
    Took a small break from modeling. Back at it again. Finally finished adding the photo etch to the engine, and cockpit. I purchased 4 sets from Eduard. Engine, cockpit, seatbelts, and gun bays. I also purchased a set of resin tires, and propeller with spinner. The kit rubber tires had nasty seams down the middle. After cutting the engine panels apart, I added photo etch to the inside of each one. I took the paper fuel tanks that came with the kit, and added them to the display. I used Testor's Metalizer Lacquer to simulate metal . This stuff is fantastic. I used it a lot for the engine components. Spray it on, let it dry, then buff it out. I seal mine after buffing. This prevents getting silver finger tips. One of the guys in our local model club was commissioned by the pilots son to build this exact same kit.The son gave him a copy of his fathers flight logs, and a very descriptive book detailing every one of his father's mission during the war. Thanks Ted for letting me use this info while building this kit.
  30. 1 point
    https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/wonder-woman’s-invisible-jet-now-display 🤨😆😉
  31. 1 point
    Blue Tail Flies...impressive. Both look great Gil. I am currently working on the 1/32 Hasegawa TA-4J kit of ancient vintage. I hope it comes out as well as either of these two builds. Bill
  32. 1 point
    They’re a lot of fun and I’d done right, you can really appreciate the expert sculpting by Bill Lemon on those Aurora kits of the 60s.
  33. 1 point
    The Creature Brothers. One on left is my first and a keeper, and I may put the other and future ones up for sale at some point...I don’t know. Neither is finished but I’m happy with the technique so I can reproduce it a couple times.
  34. 1 point
    Here’s another save from the attic. He’s been stripped and reassembled where necessary and primered then hand painted. No airbrushing in this piece. Last pic is what I started with.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I was going through sorting photos last night and realized that over the last 20 years or so, I have done some pretty weird models. I've done my fair share of "normal" models as well, but here are some of the strangers ones for your enjoyment.
  37. 1 point
    Wow, you did some outstanding and unique models Pete! Sensational work! I think I've seen the six-wheeled Marlboro car once. Gil, that submarine was a stroke of genius! With all the models I've built in my life, I think I only have about three or four unique and different models. This first one was a modification of the Tirpitz into a "what-if" modern ship... complete with a helicopter deck! Aside from that, all I have are the Japanese Zero egg plane I did for a one-hour build contest. And yes, I did finish that in one hour as you see it in the pic. My prize was a 1/32 scale Visible P-51 Mustang. ...and the rival set from the anime movie "Porco Rosso" which isn't that unusual, except the Savoia S-21 never existed. Other than that, there are these movie and TV cars along with two Tom Daniel's designs. That's about the extend of my unusual models in my collection.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Gil, I love the old Dave Deal designs! Never built them though. As a kid, I did do a lot of Weirdo's though. We really had a lot of strange stuff when I was growing up. Do you remember the old Flap Jack model. I still have one new in the box. I really need to get around to building that one of these days.
  40. 1 point
    Hi, Peter, I would say you have quite an imagination. I liked every one of these simply because you did not repeat yourself when building them. Excellent quality and details. Thanks for sharing. Ed
  41. 1 point
    Stripped and restored this original Aurora. Missing tree and snake but I’ll find originals for it. First pic is what I started with.
  42. 1 point
    Very nice! That is so cool! Brilliant job Kevin!
  43. 1 point
    More progress on the Tigercat. I first cut out the molded wing tip lights. Later I will add clear parts to make the lens. Next I assembled and detailed the main gear bays with some photo etch and detail painting. Moving onto the engines I used the photo etch wiring harness. The engines were painted with aluminum for the cylinders and black for the pushrod covers. The wiring was painted burnt umber and the front cover was painted light gray with chrome bolts. The landing gear was then detailed. The main struts had the hydraulic lines molded on. I cut them off and replaced them with black sleeved 32 awg wire. I drilled a small hole at each end then stripped the sleeving off to the bare wire and CA glued the wire into the hole. I added the one for the nose gear as well. When assembling the fuselage I filled everything forward of the cockpit to the nose with lead weights. Alas even with all the weights the aircraft still wants to sit on its tail. There just isn’t enough room to add more weight due to the sleek fuselage. I am most likely going to make a display base for the aircraft to sit on so that it displays correctly. The fuselage has been base coated and the decals will be the next step. You can see all the build photos from the start on my blog at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f7f-3-tigercat/
  44. 1 point
    USS Enterprise light leakage test: Detailed blog entry here: https://geekjournal.ch/uss-enterprise-model-build-part-12-light-leakage/
  45. 1 point
    Thanks, Bill, With a meeting theme for March of "anything green," a yellow, orange, white, metallic red, and metallic purple vehicle assembly will fit right in. So I'll be bringing it! Ed
  46. 1 point
    I am proud to announce that my latest E-book is now available. The attached image should give you all the information. Any questions, don't hesitate to reply in this thread or send me a private message. And since a functioning hyperlink can't be inserted into an image, here are working links for your choice of E-book formats at smashwords.com or a printable PDF at scalepublications Now, who do I contact to submit a review copy?
  47. 1 point
    Only the Japanese... Very cool! Bill
  48. 1 point
    MY experience with IPMS "haters" who criticize the importance we place on craftsmanship is that they are modelers who are sorely lacking in craftsmanship themselves. They cannot win a contest so those who can put too much emphasis on craftsmanship. Building a model without trying to do a good job is like playing golf with no particular concern whether the ball ever gets in the cup. Since I joined IPMS in 1964, I have had to listen to the likes of AMSO criticize this venerable organization and its 1/2 century endeavour to raise plastic modelling from the low regard in which it was held ( remember when the wood modelers thought that WE were the ones lacking in craftsmanship?) to the level of excellence it now enjoys. I have long since run out of patience with modelers jealous of what IPMS members have achieved individually and collectively through hard work and a demand for excellence to make plastic modelling every bit as sophisticated and respectable as hand carved balsa and basswood modelling. This was always one of our earliest goals. Hence, I will eschew any semblance of modelling "political correctness!" I will not take back what I said above nor will I apologize for it. As long as such people as AMSO members keep their comments to themselves, I will forbear to criticize them. But once they start the childish nonsense such as was reported above, then they better be prepared to knock the chip off my shoulder that I unashamedly wear for IPMS. Nick Filippone, IPMS #969 and proud enough of it to stick up for it!
  49. 1 point
    PeteJ, I started this thread not as criticism, but as curiosity if others have encountered such groups. In my description of the AMSO group, I have very charitable of them. They are not really that creative, but merely use it as a an excuse to justify poor craftsmanship. I realize everyone builds models for their own reasons and we have several in both the local IPMS chapters who only build for themselves. They have no interests in contests, nor do they try to build at a high competitive level. I like them and have great respect for them for they accept both complements and suggestions with good grace. You can be extremely creative and be a good craftsman, I have seen that constantly at the Nationals. The man I described in the earlier post hardly ever built a model, but from day one was constantly pestering people to trade stuff with him. And he kept at it until I told him to leave me the F alone. This was not a difference in how to build, but about common courtesy. One was posting racist remarks on the internet and another was a drunk constantly stinking of beer. I would disagree that creativity doesn't win or isn't considered, particularly in the final stages of judging. My experience says those who feel the creativity of their model is over looked, are just trying to rationalize their failure, but it is true different groups see "good craftsmanship" differently. These two photos from OHMS show both creativity and good craftsmanship, IMO. That's Manta Ray Charles, by the way. Dak
  50. 1 point
    I'm going to have to defer to our legal eagle to get a ruling and get back to you. I don't want to use the wrong words and convey the wrong thing.
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