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  1. 3 points
    http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-by-gary-kerr/ http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-pt2-by-gary-kerr/
  2. 2 points
    I think what's interesting is that the 1-2-3 description actually is written as a NEGATIVE towards GSB! Here are some examples: 1) " Entries aren’t compared to any “ideal”, “perfect-model”, or “national-standards” criteria". Strictly speaking that's true, but they make it sound like having a standard to WIN an award (NOT enter the contest) is a bad thing. Every club that does GSB KNOWS that to be false! And there IS a Standard in GSB... Those same BASICS! 2) "Judges are your IPMS peers"... Seems to imply that GSB uses wizards or outsiders from the GSB galaxy to judge at those shows. Nope! Turns out it's ALSO your "IPMS peers"! 3) " Recording results for just the 600 winners now requires 8 staff, transcribing scoring from just 200 sheets of paper" (etc)...Implies that GSB judging would be IMPOSSIBLE at the Nats because of the logistics of how 1-2-3 is done. FAILS to point out that EVERY GSB system used or proposed does NOT use that 1-2-3 system of recording. IF GSB were ever to be used at a Nats, the system would be entirely different. 4) " How many ‘extras’ of each award level should a host chapter plan to order, ‘just in case’? Just one per category (200 more)? Two or more per category? 2,350 awards – just in case?" This next paragraph rightly points out the differences between the number of awards needed between the two systems. However, it WRONGLY implies that you could NEVER know how much you need! This is dealt with by EVERY GSB show in the nation EVERY year; so it IS something you can "learn". Would GSB be a "higher cost" system? YES! But then THAT is the crux of the debate: Should IPMSUSA look to reward MORE deserving builds than they do now? And with the profits that are being made, IPMS CAN afford to by some more awards! The debate, and the PURPOSE of this survey is to try to determine if the general membership thinks that's a good idea or not. 5) " Our convention attendees want a ‘contest’ "; THAT is a BLATANT assumption, and actually not true! There's enough of a question about that to lead to this survey being done! It also implies that GSB attendees aren't looking to "win" (as opposed to "contest" attendees). Baloney! GSB contestants want to win as MUCH as they can; they just prefer to do so while NOT "beating" anyone else, and (when they do win) not limit anyone else's ability to win. 6) " How many ‘For Display Only’ entries do you ever see at any of our conventions?" What has THAT to do with models in a CONTEST, be it GSB or 1-2-3? People who want to compete enter the show, be it GSB or 1-2-3. Those who prefer to display do that, no matter what format is being used there! 7) " Want to be the one of the few entrants not even good enough to earn a Bronze award – ‘not up to national standards’? MISLEADINGLY implies that a Standard that determines WINNERS (not the ability to enter the show) is somehow mean. Well, how does it feel in a 1-2-3 show to go home EMPTY HANDED and not knowing if you even made the cut? BOTH systems still have "losers"...but GSB will have FEWER "losers" than 1-2-3! 8- " Our contest results and awards are a fair recognition of our entrants’ outstanding model-making accomplishments" BLATANT BALONEY! In ANY 1-2-3 category with 10-25 entries at the Nats there are 7-22 that go home with NO idea of how they did!! There are HUNDREDS of outstandingly built models that go COMPLETELY unrecognized because the judges decide that there are 3 there THAT day that are "better". The "fair recognition" is ONLY truly fair for the top 3 winners! There's a LOT of advantages for 1-2-3 in IPMSUSA, and the system has some positives that make it preferable to many. There was NO need to write the above in such a negative way. Instead of touting the positives and advantages 1-2-3 offers IPMS members, it's written to PUT DOWN GSB. As the IPMS USA Chief Judge, I could understand if Mr. Persechetti wrote an enthusiastic support for 1-2-3. However, he chose to write it as a condemnation, and actually showed his ignorance of GSB in doing so. I'm greatly disappointed and disgusted with his lack of character and honesty in this matter! Gil
  3. 2 points
    Dak, you make a valid point. However, I would suggest that it isn't limited to the IPMS/USA. The current "I'm Offended" culture that has developed in this country has to be a major factor. Keep in mind that practically anything that exists has the potential to offend anyone, but it has gotten completely out of control. Consider the efforts to make the Washington Redskins football team change their name because 'Redskins" is offensive to one small tribe. Other people are offended by the use of certain words, while others by actual historical events. Look at the complaints that started with objections to the Confederate Battle Flag...actually the Battle Flag of Northern Virginia...and expanded to statues of Confederate heros and schools that were named for men who had virtually no connection to the Confederacy other than fighting for the South. Political views are now subject to similar bias. Liberal viewpoints are widely publicized, while those of a conservative bent are castigated or banned. I was unable to market an article to a magazine I wrote for because the model in question....a Peterbilt 377 with an American Bald Eagle w/crossed American & Confederate flags on the air dam....was refused because "it might offend someone". If I did that model today as an ebook, I would be forced to apologize for it, accused of being a racist and required to remove the ebook from the marketplace. And if you want to get an idea of just how hypersensitive people are getting...as well as ignorant...I very recently had a magazine article corrected by my editor because "I've never heard of it, so I'm sure no one else has ever heard of it!" What was it? Believe it or not, a Mexican Jumping Bean. Instead, the editor changed Mexican Jumping Bean to simply 'jumping bean", thereby identifying every bean on the planet as a jumping bean! And if you think all of the above is a recent development, it's just the extreme result. Tony Weddel, a deceased aviation artist and my friend, quit doing heavy combat aviation art back in the late '70s or early '80s because he could no longer sell the art or prints. Why? Because people didn't want to purchase art that depicted violence. Result? He wound up doing pretty paintings of aircraft against storm clouds or toned down combat...unless a client specifically requested heavy combat. That, by the way, leads to your comment about viewing scenes of violence in model dioramas. Incidentally, it's also the reason why I've never created a crucifixion diorama of my own....it would offend virtually everyone who saw it. I have no idea where this is going to end, but if you build models, dioramas, articles and/or books for a living, it's already having an impact on what you can produce without offending someone. And it doesn't matter if it's a group or a single person. Dak, in case you're wondering, I'm 76 and I have no more problem viewing real life scenes than you do. I knew a preacher who I offered a copy of my P-38 CD-ROM to, warning him that it had a lot of nose art images containing pinup or semi-nude figures. His response? It's history. It'll be interesting to see what kinds of responses I get to this little tirade. Richard
  4. 2 points
    Anyway, here is my last acquisition I got last year as a Christmas gift to myself. I didn't post it above because for some reason the camera could not focus on the box and all my pics were blurry. This time, after considerable effort; I have a pic to show: I had wanted that since it came out. I figured it was time since I had Christmas money to burn. I hope to get started on it this year.
  5. 2 points
    Hey Ron...First off...I think you'll enjoy build scale cars, if you like 1/1 cars. OK..to try and answer your questions... Personally... I strip all the chrome(using concentrated laundry bleach...Clorox is what I use) from every build that I do. The Chrome that's applied to most of the the kits are way too brite for the smaller scales. I will leave the chrome for 1/12th and larger builds. To re-chrome....I shoot a Black or Blue High gloss base coats. Alclad II has Chrome that has a little learning curve. You can use Alclad polished Aluminum as it works good too. I also use ALSA Mirror Chrome which has a small learning curve but does not rub off when dry. If you want to leave the chrome and just touch up where it was cut from the sprue...then you can use a small paint brush( 3 0 or smaller) and a dab of Model Master Chrome Silver #FS 17178. Model Master has another chrome paint but it's not as good. I've used both and this one works the best between the two. Put a small amount of paint in a mixing pallet and add a drop or two of Lacquer thinner. Don't mix it in just let the thinner hit the edges of the paint and then load you brush and apply to the spot on the part. NOW...since MOLOTOW has come out with 3 paint pens and a refill bottle...all one has to do is just touch the part with it and it's rechromed. But...the small down side of it is..it takes at least 3-4 days for it to dry. It's is remarkable how well this paint looks when applied. If you can work with the dry time...then Molotow is the way to go. You can do a search on the web and watch a a few videos that's out there on it. Well Ron...I hope I've shed a little light on the chrome thing for you. Just remember there's no right or wrong..it's what ever works best for you. Gary
  6. 1 point
    Yeah, it was so streamlined that it hardly impeded the airflow. 😲 In a strong head wind, at max speed I think it could hover
  7. 1 point
    Greetings all, Just got back to San Antonio from Phoenix last night - 13+ hour drive, not too bad...and I-10 is a rather pleasant and easy drive. It also helps that the speed limit is 80 mph in some of the more remote locations. I first wish to thank Steve Collins and Team Phoenix for an absolutely outstanding National Convention. I had an absolute blast and I hope we can return to Phoenix someday in the near future for another convention. I wanted to take some time to put some facts out there about our bid that was approved by the E-Board and announced Saturday night. I have been reading and hearing a few things over the past few days and wanted to help with some clarification. The date and location of the 2020 convention will be 29 July - 1 Aug 2020 at the Embassy Suites and San Marcos Conference Center located in San Marcos, Texas. I, along with other members of the bid team, are members of Alamo Squadron in San Antonio; there is no chartered IPMS/USA club in San Marcos. During our research for a suitable hotel and conference center (Thanks to Dick Montgomery for his groundwork here) we found that San Antonio is just too expensive. As it turns out, San Marcos, just a short drive up I-35, is the right size and price for our needs and the city is hungry for our business. The Embassy Suites have been a pleasure to work with - I even received a supportive call from their corporate HQ in Atlanta on the Friday before the convention - and the San Marcos Convention and Visitors Bureau is in constant contact with me. I will be sharing the good news with them later today. The most important note I can make today is that the core leadership team for 2020 is comprised of more than just Alamo Squadron. We have several members of IPMS Houston on the team as well as IPMS Central Texas. Austin Scale Modeling Society members will also be joining the team soon. While it was nice to be recognized as Alamo Squadron in the bid results announcement Saturday night our team really is larger than just Alamo Squadron...we are Team Texas...and this is how I will be referring to us from here on out. Thank you to those of you that came up to me both before the location was announced and after expressing your support for the 2020 show...and especially those that said you would help out any way you could. This is very much appreciated. I will be checking the forum from time to time for questions about the 2020 convention but I want to emphasize that for the next year, Team Texas will be supporting Chattanooga in any way possible and will be on the ground in force next summer to help out. As is practice with other shows we will not put anything online until after next summer's show is complete. After Chattanooga 2019 I will "hang-out" here on the forums on a daily basis to help answer any questions that may pop-up. My initial thoughts are to have web site and hotel reservations up in September of 2019. Stay tuned and see you all in Chattanooga on 7 August 2019 with all of your "wrong" models. -Len Pilhofer
  8. 1 point
    Simply outstanding work. Congrats. Regards Christopher
  9. 1 point
    After reading the last few comments, I have changed my thinking on using a point system and judging for an open judging system. It would seem that a team of judges (as we have now) should make the "cut" (as we do now) and judge each model to determine what medal (if any) should be awarded. This would be an excellent and much faster way to judge all deserving models. This is how the forum should work and is why I suggest posting any proposal on the forum. The knowledge base is here.
  10. 1 point
    This kit is based on the new trilogy of the Planet of the Apes, and it is an excellent story for how it all began. This is a simple kit of two parts the bust and the base. It is expertly sculpted by Mark Van Tine and casted by Paul Gill. It all starts with a black primer. The base looks like it's brickwork covered in stucco, so that the way I went. Thanks for looking.
  11. 1 point
    As IPMS is a society for all genres with a big leaning towards the aircraft modeller that reflects the main plastic modelling interest catered for by manufactureres. I build classic car models, but even at Telford the number of classes for car models is diminutive compared to the number and range of aircraft classes. A couple of years back the scratch build cars class was dropped due to low entry levels, so my models now have to compete against detailed kits. I will still partake though to support the competition generally. Sometimes I wish that there were a number of model car clubs here in the UK like you enjoy in the States. Apart from special interest groups within IPMS UK there is nothing else that I am aware of. Not to say that car modelling is not popular in the UK. Far from it judging by the frightfully expensive kits that Hiroboy and Grand Prix Models sell, not counting the plastic auto kits more generally available. IPMS has to be all things to all modellers unlike specialist modelling groups, and therein lies its strength and it's weakness,. It's strength is that it caters for al!. But it's weakness is its leanings toward certain subjects dictated by the main interests of modellers generally!
  12. 1 point
    Here's a tiny resin kit from TD Cast. This was a 2015 Wonder Festival exclusive. Included a couple w.I.p. pics this time around. Once again hand finished in acrylics and artist inks with a scratch built base. Thanks for looking!
  13. 1 point
    Tedious painting on the Ki-45 camouflage continues. I tried masking the pattern and realized it was actually easier to just hand paint the jungle camouflage. The base coat is Japanese Army light green and the camouflage is Japanese Army dark green. In the end I really like the look of this camouflage. I then painted the wing leading edges yellow and the white fuselage stripe just forward of the tail. For the wing landing light I painted the light bezel chrome silver and filled it up with acrylic gel to simulate the lens. See all the details and photos in the blog build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ki-45-toryu-nick/ At this point I move the model to another table and upgraded the work bench area by adding work table to organize the work surface. Check out the updated photos of the working area on my blog at https://davidsscalemodels.com/gallery/the-studio/ The new workspace
  14. 1 point
    IMHO, for the reasons you describe, too much or too little weathering shouldn't be a consideration when judging. The realism of the technique is what should be considered. If the modeler chooses a factory finish or rust dripping to the ground, what matters is how well (or not) it was done and how realistic (or not) the weathering looks.
  15. 1 point
    This is a 537 scale kitbash I did last year. USS Akula is a Lynch Class Light Destroyer. Ship design is by Eric Kristiansen who has published several books on Federation ships and technology, most notably the Jackills Guide to Federation Ships. Akula has custom decals from Jbot, lower deflector dish from Federation Models, scratchbuilt connecting dorsal and a 4 color "Aztec" paint scheme using McKenzie water based taxidermy colors. I also put hatches for "life boats" on this build. I am currently working on Akula's sister ship, a 1.350 scale Lynch Class which I am making my first attempt at lighting ( so far so good! lol)
  16. 1 point
    Hello guys These are the things I've been working on lately, as my hands shake more and more with the passing of the years I'm dedicating more time to the 3d designing and some less to the "real" plastic things. Anyway these designs are later 3d printed so I can see them built and painted in the finished models. I hope you like them.
  17. 1 point
    Beautiful aircraft Ora! You did an exceptional job on it. Well done!
  18. 1 point
    Hi all, This was supposed to be a quick build, which it basically was. I started putting things together and before I knew it, it was practically done. I added some seatbelts in the cockpit and some brake lines and such on the landing gear. I also took the step out of the the leading edge slat area (the red area) where the top of the wing transitions to the slat well. The paint scheme came from the Classic Air Frames 1/48 kit. Paints used were Vallejo and Model Master. I resized the CA decal sheet from the kit and printed it on my computer. Overall they came out pretty good. I like the color scheme with the three blues/grays. This kit is ancient but it fit great. The detail is accurate and there aren't a million pieces. What's not to like? Any comments always welcome. Bill
  19. 1 point
    Hi Joe Rule I.3 states (emphasis is mine): "Prior Winners. Models that have won First-, Second-, or Third-place, or Outof-the-Box awards in any category of any previous IPMS/USA National Model Contest may not be entered in any subsequent IPMS/USA National Model Contest for awards, except as provided in Section II, Rule 19 (last sentence) and Section III, Rules 5--7. Previous award winners can be used as noted in Dioramas, Collections, Triathlon and Group entries. Models that have won an award as part of a Collection, Triathlon or Group entry may also be entered individually in subsequent National Contests. However, models that have won individually, and as part of a Collection, Triathlon or Group entry, are not eligible for subsequent National Contests." Note that there is no exception for Juniors moving up to Standard categories in subsequent years. There is the qualifier in Rule I.2 that a Junior entrant may choose to enter any or all of his entries [for that year] in the Standard categories. Your son's model, and I am assuming we are talking about his excellent Perry frigate from the Omaha show, may be entered for an award as part of a diorama/vignette (II.19) or as part of a Trathalon, Collection, or Group Entry (III.5-7). It may also be shown as a Display Only entry. I hope this answers your question. Ed Grune NCC Head Ship Judge
  20. 1 point
    I am proud to announce that my latest E-book is now available. The attached image should give you all the information. Any questions, don't hesitate to reply in this thread or send me a private message. And since a functioning hyperlink can't be inserted into an image, here are working links for your choice of E-book formats at smashwords.com or a printable PDF at scalepublications Now, who do I contact to submit a review copy?
  21. 1 point
    Nicely written tip! Thanks for the link! GIL
  22. 1 point
    LOL...great..I need to buy more paint Dave
  23. 1 point
    Attempting to get back to actively building with the old Monogram F9F-5P recon Panther. Planning to mark it as VC-61/VFP-61. Will have to finagle the markings from other sheets as the kit only comes with Marine squadrons. Good kit for its age. Not very many parts. Certainly not up to the detail of the Kitty Hawk Cougar or Banshee. I made 1 major error. I glued the upper halves to the lower wing before installing the lower wing to the fuselage. The instructions read to glue the bottom half of the wing to the completed fuselage. I think I've salvaged it by cutting the port wing off. It will require a little putty work to correct. Won't do that again. The initial primer work is done. Will assemble this weekend & shoot the 1st coat of Dark Sea Blue. Had hoped to have it ready for Blizzcon next weekend. Don't think I'll make it.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks! I wish I had the set up for SBS photos but I work at the diner table most of the time. 😑
  25. 1 point
    Very cool! It has that Japanese mythical look to it. Very well done. Bill
  26. 1 point
    https://www.aarp.org/personal-growth/life-long-learning/info-04-2009/modelmaking-a-great-hobby-for-your-brain.html
  27. 1 point
    Thanks Kevin! That is about eight coats of white and nine of clear gloss! It's the closes thing I've ever come to getting a smooth coat of paint.
  28. 1 point
    EJ, In the photography forum under "on the bench" there are more pics from when I started this kit back in 2014. I will add some other pictures soon. I used the Squadron "USS Wasp In Action" book for reference and internet photos. I don't know if thatSquadron book is still available. Thanks for looking. Mark, Thank you. This took on a life of it's own and I'm glad it is over. I enjoyed most of the time on it but it did get to me after awhile. Thanks Tony; always appreciated. Bill
  29. 1 point
    Ok, I finally got some shots yesterday of the model that I liked. First of all credit where credit is due. The decals are from Warbird and Ed got me some of the first one out there. That inspired me to try and get this done for Nat's which I did. This is a unique display that I have never seen before and have wanted to try for years. It uses a model cut in half and mounted on a mirror. There are obviously issues with photographing such a model. I solved those by placing it on a our patio table and using the real sky as a reflection. I also positioned it so I could get different effects from the sun and shadow. The last photo shows how the photo was arranged. I really like the way the photos look.
  30. 1 point
    Great work and idea Kev! Definitely a change of pace from real space modeling. Have fun modeling Mike
  31. 1 point
    We have three more coming up in November and one in December. The big hindrance to seeing the launches is the on shore flow in the evening and the decreased visibility especially this time of year. Sunny SoCal only happened when Sonny Bono was mayor of Carmel!😄
  32. 1 point
    After every build I usually clean up around the desk, and I notice this little mini which had fallen on the floor and got covered by a box. She's Miss Pumpkin Witch, from The Predastore. Since Halloween is right around the corner I decided to move this model to the front of the line. The 1/35 mini is part of the pin-up limited edition series. Mine was number 18 of 200. The model comes in 3 parts - the body/pumpkin, the arm with the knife, and the hat. As usual it's starts with a two tone priming - And then a base coat. What you're seeing here are the stocks before trying a smoky color. That ended up not working and decided to just take it easy and make a very pale purple stockings - Here we have a few highlights on the pumpkin, skin and dress. I also started detailing her face. WOW it's tiny! Thanks for looking.
  33. 1 point
    Work continues on the Accurate Miniatures 1/48 SB2U-2 Vindicator, the gun and bombs have been detailed. I painted the base coat on the aircraft. This is kind of a new area as I am trying out Vallejo paints for the first time. I usually use Model Master and Tamiya paints for many years. With Model Master now owned by Krylon, they are cutting back of many of the military colors. The Vallejo paints work very well and gives you a nice even coat. Build log with all photos at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-sb2u-2-vindicator/
  34. 1 point
    Good to know Kevin. Thanks.
  35. 1 point
    See our review of the incredible book Strange Worlds on the visionary dioramas of Matthew Albanese at https://midnightoilstudios.org/2018/07/31/the-illusionist/. Train Wreck - Matthew Albanese
  36. 1 point
    Ah, ha! Name now attached to face. Enjoyed judging with you.
  37. 1 point
    Very interesting looking diorama. Well done. Are you going to add a few figurines? I think it would give it some more life and drama.
  38. 1 point
    Using CA glue. I use the glue looper to apply the glue. It is a very nice tool and applies an accurate amount of glue. http://www.creativedynamicllc.com/the-glue-looper.html
  39. 1 point
    Sharp looking display, you did great with all the details.
  40. 1 point
    Detailed info on Southwest's colors and logos can be found in Southwest's Brand Style Guide, a 184-page PDF which can be downloaded here: https://swa.adcompliance.com/SWA_Docs/Brand_Style_Guide.pdf
  41. 1 point
    They are part of the Eduard photo-etch set. The set has detail parts for the cockpit, landing gear bays, external panels, and flaps.
  42. 1 point
    The work continues on the interior of the J2F duck. The interior and landing gear are basically installed. Have many more details to add. I drilled out the exhaust pipes to look more realistic. I did watch “Murphy’s War” last night while working on it. Grabbed some screen shots for details of the engine area. Many scenes of the engine without the cowl provided some nice references. All the build photos can be seen at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-j2f-duck/
  43. 1 point
    Now, that's pretty neat! I'll have to give that a whirl at some point--although I may have to tweak it for 1/350 scale...
  44. 1 point
    Thanks Kev. You reminded me to post final images: Additional images can be found here: Super Jerry F.2
  45. 1 point
    Thanks for the tip.
  46. 1 point
    Gil, as far as the packing and shipping is concerned...I took the box in a box approach. An 18" x 22" x 9" box held the model...contained in a cradle of 4" urethane foam with 4" urethane foam holddown pieces over the outer wings. That box was then contained in a 22" x 28" x 13" outer box with styrofoam peanuts in the surrounding space for padding. The entire package weighed 10 pounds and shipped via USPS for $38.70. So did it get there intact and did the client like it? I don't know. I received and email stating that the model arrived. That's it. No idea whether or not it arrived intact or damaged, nor do I know if the client liked it. That's the way it goes when you do commission builds.
  47. 1 point
    I just found six different box sets of the Pactra International colors in a storage bin, and I have a Pactra small bottle paint rack that is still filled about 60% with unopened Pactra color bottles. Unfortunately, one of my favorite flat metallic colors that I could apply with a brush without streaks--Flat Metallic Gray--is gone. Testors metallics just do not apply well with a brush to any spot larger than 1/16th inch.
  48. 1 point
    The Be2C gets a bit of a bad rap in as much as it was very good at what it was designed for when it was designed, but it was used for the wrong purpose way after it shouldn't have been used at all. It was an excellent recon/spotting a/c, being very stable with good range. However, being stable is the last thing you want in a fighter, but with no other designs ready, the British were forced to use it as just that and accordingly they were shot out of the skies in droves. When better designs finally replace it in the front line in France, it found a home for a while with the Home Defense Forces during the first Blitz by Germany's dirigibles. They were modified in some cases with the front cockpit being filled with an extra fuel tank and then faired over. The m/g was also moved to either a mount just in front of the pilot facing up or in the case of this model, into a Ross mount on top of the wing. While they had mixed success, a night fighting Be2C brought down the first dirigible shot down over England, earning a VC for it's pilot, Lt. W. Leefe-Robinson, in 1916. Here's a Be2C piloted by Flt. Sub. Lt. Buck out of RNAS Eastchurch in Sept. 1916. Painted all black with the white of the insignias and fin flash eliminated, and converted with a faired over front cockpit and top of the wing gun mount. The kit is Airfix's new tooled and very nice kit that goes together like a dream.
  49. 1 point
    Well, that Tankograd book arrived today. Definitely get "Tankograd American Special #3022 - M60A2, M60A3 & AVLB" if you want to build the AVLB. It doesn't really help if you're going to build a A2 or A3 in my opinion. But then, who am I? ;-)
  50. 1 point
    Did you notice that the men working on the models dressed properly to go to work? White shirts, ties, and jackets even in a paint shop. :smiley14: Fast forward a century and reflect on how workers (or people in general) dress today. :o Ed
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