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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    My model is the Italeri 1/72 scale Fiat CR-32 Chirri." It represents an aircraft assigned to XXIII Grupo Caccia, Aviazione Legionaria. The unit was led by Lieutenant Colonel Andrea Zotti and based at Puig Moreno, Spain, June-July 1938. The unit formed part of the Italian contingent fighting for the Nationalist cause during the Spanish Civil War. I used the Osprey Fiat CR-32 Aces of the Spanish Civil War (Aircraft of the Aces 94) for inspiration; profile 28. I wanted to model Zotti's aircraft; he flew "3-4", but I only had the decals for "3-6". The model was built out-of-the-box except for the rigging. Took me 3-months to figure out I can't paint Italian camouflage with an airbrush freehand and another 3-months and a lot of Tamiya tape to manage that effort. I enjoyed the build; never worked harder to complete a model...
  2. 3 points
    http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-by-gary-kerr/ http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-pt2-by-gary-kerr/
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Two models completed in one year so far!! WooHoo!! 😁
  5. 2 points
    I think what's interesting is that the 1-2-3 description actually is written as a NEGATIVE towards GSB! Here are some examples: 1) " Entries aren’t compared to any “ideal”, “perfect-model”, or “national-standards” criteria". Strictly speaking that's true, but they make it sound like having a standard to WIN an award (NOT enter the contest) is a bad thing. Every club that does GSB KNOWS that to be false! And there IS a Standard in GSB... Those same BASICS! 2) "Judges are your IPMS peers"... Seems to imply that GSB uses wizards or outsiders from the GSB galaxy to judge at those shows. Nope! Turns out it's ALSO your "IPMS peers"! 3) " Recording results for just the 600 winners now requires 8 staff, transcribing scoring from just 200 sheets of paper" (etc)...Implies that GSB judging would be IMPOSSIBLE at the Nats because of the logistics of how 1-2-3 is done. FAILS to point out that EVERY GSB system used or proposed does NOT use that 1-2-3 system of recording. IF GSB were ever to be used at a Nats, the system would be entirely different. 4) " How many ‘extras’ of each award level should a host chapter plan to order, ‘just in case’? Just one per category (200 more)? Two or more per category? 2,350 awards – just in case?" This next paragraph rightly points out the differences between the number of awards needed between the two systems. However, it WRONGLY implies that you could NEVER know how much you need! This is dealt with by EVERY GSB show in the nation EVERY year; so it IS something you can "learn". Would GSB be a "higher cost" system? YES! But then THAT is the crux of the debate: Should IPMSUSA look to reward MORE deserving builds than they do now? And with the profits that are being made, IPMS CAN afford to by some more awards! The debate, and the PURPOSE of this survey is to try to determine if the general membership thinks that's a good idea or not. 5) " Our convention attendees want a ‘contest’ "; THAT is a BLATANT assumption, and actually not true! There's enough of a question about that to lead to this survey being done! It also implies that GSB attendees aren't looking to "win" (as opposed to "contest" attendees). Baloney! GSB contestants want to win as MUCH as they can; they just prefer to do so while NOT "beating" anyone else, and (when they do win) not limit anyone else's ability to win. 6) " How many ‘For Display Only’ entries do you ever see at any of our conventions?" What has THAT to do with models in a CONTEST, be it GSB or 1-2-3? People who want to compete enter the show, be it GSB or 1-2-3. Those who prefer to display do that, no matter what format is being used there! 7) " Want to be the one of the few entrants not even good enough to earn a Bronze award – ‘not up to national standards’? MISLEADINGLY implies that a Standard that determines WINNERS (not the ability to enter the show) is somehow mean. Well, how does it feel in a 1-2-3 show to go home EMPTY HANDED and not knowing if you even made the cut? BOTH systems still have "losers"...but GSB will have FEWER "losers" than 1-2-3! 8- " Our contest results and awards are a fair recognition of our entrants’ outstanding model-making accomplishments" BLATANT BALONEY! In ANY 1-2-3 category with 10-25 entries at the Nats there are 7-22 that go home with NO idea of how they did!! There are HUNDREDS of outstandingly built models that go COMPLETELY unrecognized because the judges decide that there are 3 there THAT day that are "better". The "fair recognition" is ONLY truly fair for the top 3 winners! There's a LOT of advantages for 1-2-3 in IPMSUSA, and the system has some positives that make it preferable to many. There was NO need to write the above in such a negative way. Instead of touting the positives and advantages 1-2-3 offers IPMS members, it's written to PUT DOWN GSB. As the IPMS USA Chief Judge, I could understand if Mr. Persechetti wrote an enthusiastic support for 1-2-3. However, he chose to write it as a condemnation, and actually showed his ignorance of GSB in doing so. I'm greatly disappointed and disgusted with his lack of character and honesty in this matter! Gil
  6. 2 points
    Alcohol! Two parts single malt scotch to 1 part water chilled to 17 degrees Fahrenheit.
  7. 2 points
    Dak, you make a valid point. However, I would suggest that it isn't limited to the IPMS/USA. The current "I'm Offended" culture that has developed in this country has to be a major factor. Keep in mind that practically anything that exists has the potential to offend anyone, but it has gotten completely out of control. Consider the efforts to make the Washington Redskins football team change their name because 'Redskins" is offensive to one small tribe. Other people are offended by the use of certain words, while others by actual historical events. Look at the complaints that started with objections to the Confederate Battle Flag...actually the Battle Flag of Northern Virginia...and expanded to statues of Confederate heros and schools that were named for men who had virtually no connection to the Confederacy other than fighting for the South. Political views are now subject to similar bias. Liberal viewpoints are widely publicized, while those of a conservative bent are castigated or banned. I was unable to market an article to a magazine I wrote for because the model in question....a Peterbilt 377 with an American Bald Eagle w/crossed American & Confederate flags on the air dam....was refused because "it might offend someone". If I did that model today as an ebook, I would be forced to apologize for it, accused of being a racist and required to remove the ebook from the marketplace. And if you want to get an idea of just how hypersensitive people are getting...as well as ignorant...I very recently had a magazine article corrected by my editor because "I've never heard of it, so I'm sure no one else has ever heard of it!" What was it? Believe it or not, a Mexican Jumping Bean. Instead, the editor changed Mexican Jumping Bean to simply 'jumping bean", thereby identifying every bean on the planet as a jumping bean! And if you think all of the above is a recent development, it's just the extreme result. Tony Weddel, a deceased aviation artist and my friend, quit doing heavy combat aviation art back in the late '70s or early '80s because he could no longer sell the art or prints. Why? Because people didn't want to purchase art that depicted violence. Result? He wound up doing pretty paintings of aircraft against storm clouds or toned down combat...unless a client specifically requested heavy combat. That, by the way, leads to your comment about viewing scenes of violence in model dioramas. Incidentally, it's also the reason why I've never created a crucifixion diorama of my own....it would offend virtually everyone who saw it. I have no idea where this is going to end, but if you build models, dioramas, articles and/or books for a living, it's already having an impact on what you can produce without offending someone. And it doesn't matter if it's a group or a single person. Dak, in case you're wondering, I'm 76 and I have no more problem viewing real life scenes than you do. I knew a preacher who I offered a copy of my P-38 CD-ROM to, warning him that it had a lot of nose art images containing pinup or semi-nude figures. His response? It's history. It'll be interesting to see what kinds of responses I get to this little tirade. Richard
  8. 2 points
    Anyway, here is my last acquisition I got last year as a Christmas gift to myself. I didn't post it above because for some reason the camera could not focus on the box and all my pics were blurry. This time, after considerable effort; I have a pic to show: I had wanted that since it came out. I figured it was time since I had Christmas money to burn. I hope to get started on it this year.
  9. 2 points
    Hey Ron...First off...I think you'll enjoy build scale cars, if you like 1/1 cars. OK..to try and answer your questions... Personally... I strip all the chrome(using concentrated laundry bleach...Clorox is what I use) from every build that I do. The Chrome that's applied to most of the the kits are way too brite for the smaller scales. I will leave the chrome for 1/12th and larger builds. To re-chrome....I shoot a Black or Blue High gloss base coats. Alclad II has Chrome that has a little learning curve. You can use Alclad polished Aluminum as it works good too. I also use ALSA Mirror Chrome which has a small learning curve but does not rub off when dry. If you want to leave the chrome and just touch up where it was cut from the sprue...then you can use a small paint brush( 3 0 or smaller) and a dab of Model Master Chrome Silver #FS 17178. Model Master has another chrome paint but it's not as good. I've used both and this one works the best between the two. Put a small amount of paint in a mixing pallet and add a drop or two of Lacquer thinner. Don't mix it in just let the thinner hit the edges of the paint and then load you brush and apply to the spot on the part. NOW...since MOLOTOW has come out with 3 paint pens and a refill bottle...all one has to do is just touch the part with it and it's rechromed. But...the small down side of it is..it takes at least 3-4 days for it to dry. It's is remarkable how well this paint looks when applied. If you can work with the dry time...then Molotow is the way to go. You can do a search on the web and watch a a few videos that's out there on it. Well Ron...I hope I've shed a little light on the chrome thing for you. Just remember there's no right or wrong..it's what ever works best for you. Gary
  10. 1 point
    Simply outstanding work. Congrats. Regards Christopher
  11. 1 point
    After reading the last few comments, I have changed my thinking on using a point system and judging for an open judging system. It would seem that a team of judges (as we have now) should make the "cut" (as we do now) and judge each model to determine what medal (if any) should be awarded. This would be an excellent and much faster way to judge all deserving models. This is how the forum should work and is why I suggest posting any proposal on the forum. The knowledge base is here.
  12. 1 point
    Well, here it is more than a month later and I finally had time to actually work on something; thanks to Hobby Day Weekend. Here's my latest. I tried getting further along on several models, starting with the Russian glider. I managed to get it sanded down now, eliminating a lot of seams and issues: I got the wings and wheels on this bird now: Later I added more Mr. Surfacer to the wing roots and sanded it down. This bird is ready for paint now. After that, I decided to get caught up on some armor. The MAN Pershing tractor-trailer was advanced a bit when I got the missile cradle done on the trailer: The missile is removable for painting. I also completed all the assembly on the tractor. This is now ready for paint: This is looking good so far: Now I wanted to advance my BMP-3 Early a little more. I finished up the wheels, sprockets and tracks as well as the interior: Then I completed most of the upper hull and snapped it down on top, then added the turret to see how it looks: Almost there... After this, I decided the M-1114 Humvee languished long enough. I pushed ahead on this one, finishing the main body and part of the roof: After dry fitting the roof, I saw where other issues were going to happen: Yeah, that's back on the box for now... Moving on, I got the wheels and sprockets on the Nagmachon in preparation for the tracks: Afterward, I added the doghouse after installing the armored glass to it. I also 'primered' the wheels in preparation for the vinyl tracks as recommended so the vinyl doesn't melt the wheels: After this is gonna be a bunch of photo-etch and then some paint, some weathering, and then more photo-etch screens all over this. Fun times ahead! For a little break, I decided to work more on my 1/24 scale Coke truck. First, I had some ejector pin marks to fill: I don't know how much of that will be able to be seen, but I still want it looking good enough. Later I added the fenders to the main floor of this truck. The hood piece is only dry-fit to this: Time to wait on that again.... After this, I wanted something simple, easy and fun. So, remember that Bobcat kit of the airfield support vehicles I got? I pulled that out and got the vehicles all built. They are snap together so I can disassemble them as needed to paint details. For now though, I just played! Here's the Fire Truck: Later I realized that the hose nozzle was not attached to the roof so I drilled the hole and added it. Here's the Fuel truck: Yes, there is glass for the windows; I just left it off for painting purposes. Here are the two together, you can see the nozzle on the roof of the fire truck now: After that was the baggage handling tractor and trailer with the generator trailer: Here's the full set all together: BTW, there's figures with this set too.... After all this, I decided it was time to move on and get my church built. Remember the cross I bought for this? Well, I decided to cement it directly to the original tiny cross so I could use the support for the new cross: Now this will fit well on the church: And it does look good! I like this very much: Later on I painted all the white trim around the windows, doors and ledges: Later I'll get the cornerstones and then try to figure out how to do the stone walls and roof. Well, that completes this small update. Maybe I'll be able to get more done later, but I'm thinking it might be another month! Regardless, enjoy the tour and thanks for looking in!
  13. 1 point
    IPMS Three Rivers does this at Tricon also. Contact info is: Name: Bill Dedig Email: WEDJR@AOL.COM Dave
  14. 1 point
    As IPMS is a society for all genres with a big leaning towards the aircraft modeller that reflects the main plastic modelling interest catered for by manufactureres. I build classic car models, but even at Telford the number of classes for car models is diminutive compared to the number and range of aircraft classes. A couple of years back the scratch build cars class was dropped due to low entry levels, so my models now have to compete against detailed kits. I will still partake though to support the competition generally. Sometimes I wish that there were a number of model car clubs here in the UK like you enjoy in the States. Apart from special interest groups within IPMS UK there is nothing else that I am aware of. Not to say that car modelling is not popular in the UK. Far from it judging by the frightfully expensive kits that Hiroboy and Grand Prix Models sell, not counting the plastic auto kits more generally available. IPMS has to be all things to all modellers unlike specialist modelling groups, and therein lies its strength and it's weakness,. It's strength is that it caters for al!. But it's weakness is its leanings toward certain subjects dictated by the main interests of modellers generally!
  15. 1 point
    Here's a tiny resin kit from TD Cast. This was a 2015 Wonder Festival exclusive. Included a couple w.I.p. pics this time around. Once again hand finished in acrylics and artist inks with a scratch built base. Thanks for looking!
  16. 1 point
    Another great start for a true masterpiece. Regards Christopher
  17. 1 point
    IMHO, for the reasons you describe, too much or too little weathering shouldn't be a consideration when judging. The realism of the technique is what should be considered. If the modeler chooses a factory finish or rust dripping to the ground, what matters is how well (or not) it was done and how realistic (or not) the weathering looks.
  18. 1 point
    I recently scored a kit with an MSRP of $169.99 for under $15 delivered. Guys from my model club in Louisville posted about some deep discounts on Dragon kits at Dragon USA. While the kit they were discussing was a 1/6th scale Panzer II normally $350 for $16 and discounted to $10 after using their Father's Day code, I searched other mistakenly discounted kits. I found the Dragon Iron Man Age of Ultron Mark XLIII kit listed for $10 and change; $7.18 after the 35% off discount code. With shipping, a whopping $14.82 delivered. Others tried to order the giant tank and one guy tried to order Iron Man, but their orders were cancelled. By the time they posted their orders were cancelled, I got a shipping notice. It arrived a two days later. By the time it arrived, the price had risen to $101.99. http://www.dragonusaonline.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=DRA38155
  19. 1 point
    This is a 537 scale kitbash I did last year. USS Akula is a Lynch Class Light Destroyer. Ship design is by Eric Kristiansen who has published several books on Federation ships and technology, most notably the Jackills Guide to Federation Ships. Akula has custom decals from Jbot, lower deflector dish from Federation Models, scratchbuilt connecting dorsal and a 4 color "Aztec" paint scheme using McKenzie water based taxidermy colors. I also put hatches for "life boats" on this build. I am currently working on Akula's sister ship, a 1.350 scale Lynch Class which I am making my first attempt at lighting ( so far so good! lol)
  20. 1 point
    Hello guys These are the things I've been working on lately, as my hands shake more and more with the passing of the years I'm dedicating more time to the 3d designing and some less to the "real" plastic things. Anyway these designs are later 3d printed so I can see them built and painted in the finished models. I hope you like them.
  21. 1 point
    Spring snow storm update! Yes it is spring and the middle of April but I think someone forgot to tell Mother Nature. Snowing like crazy here. So spent the day finishing the weapons bays and starting on the landing gear bays. The front landing gear bay is done. I added some wiring and hydraulic lines as well. I drew out the shape and laid out the wires then CA glued them together then fit them inside the bay. The photo etch supplied the wall details. I then glued the weapons and nose landing gear bay into the lower half of the fuselage. Next moving to the main gear then the engines. More photos at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-22-raptor/
  22. 1 point
    Here’s another save from someone’s childhood (before pic at end). Stripped, fixed in spots and 100% hand painted back to glory...no airbrushing here. Here’s a few progress pics. Tks for looking and your comments are welcome.
  23. 1 point
    Gil, I love the old Dave Deal designs! Never built them though. As a kid, I did do a lot of Weirdo's though. We really had a lot of strange stuff when I was growing up. Do you remember the old Flap Jack model. I still have one new in the box. I really need to get around to building that one of these days.
  24. 1 point
    Nicely written tip! Thanks for the link! GIL
  25. 1 point
    Okay, this is a small update, and an all armor one as well. I did get a lot done, so it's small in reference to the number of models I made progress on. First off, I got my Russian SG-122 clearcoated and then washed with a brown wash. My picture taking still needs some work but with the limitations I have, I think you can see this well enough. Here's the vehicle all glossy and washed up: Now this didn't come with any markings so I decided to rummage around in my decal stash and found some that would fit. I applied these on both sides while it was still glossy: You can see I also painted the tracks. Later, I dullcoated this: Now all that is left is to weather this and then I can call it done. While I was glossing and washing things, I also glossed and washed the Russian BREM: Interestingly enough, this one also did not come with markings so I just dullcoated it: I'm just going to add the remaining detail bits and then weather this and call it done. Moving along, I pulled out my Diamond T wrecker. I had started the painting on the cab as you see here: Afterward, I painted the interior, even though this probably won't be seen after I close it up: Next I added the front windscreen: I might have to adjust those windows. While waiting for them to dry, I started the assembly of the back deck: After that was done, I pulled out my Chi Nu and also painted the tracks along with the SG-122 and BREM: You can't really tell that much in this pic. Anyway, if I was painting the tracks for this, it was time to move on the camouflage pattern. So, I pulled out my trusty Silly Putty and masked off where I wanted the brown to remain: By this time it was too cold to airbrush so I need to wait for a warmer day. Hopefully soon. Finally I got to the project that I made the most progress on. The two Russian tractors received some significant work. First off, I assembled all the axles for these tractors, after painting the wheel hubs. Here is one of the two identical sprues with the work I did: When these were dry, I added them to the two chassis. Here's the first Tractor: And the second tractor: Next I assembled all the parts on the cabs, excluding the delicate fiddly parts that would break with handling. This included the windscreens, dash boards and steering wheels. The dash boards and steering wheels can't be seen in these pics. This is the cab for the second tractor with the bed; it is identical to the first one except for the headlights: Here are the two cabs side by side: Next I assembled the interiors....such as they were. I basically added the seats to the cab floor: With the steering wheels and dash boards already added to the cab tops, you can see they "spared no expense" with these interiors! So I went and painted everything up inside; knowing it wouldn't be seen well, I didn't get fancy. Here it is while still wet: Well after they were dry, the next thing to do was to cement the cabs to the floors and close everything up: Then I added these cabs to their respective chassis, making sure the right cab went with the right chassis. I then added the two other assemblies which hide the empty engine compartment: Unfortunately for me, I didn't notice that you can see right through the grills on the side of the trucks till too late. I don't know if I can fix that now, given that everything is already glued in place. Anyway, here is the two tractors from the rear: Now with that bare plastic showing, I knew I had to mask the windows so I could re-shoot these models. Therefore, I tried a couple different masking agents. First, I found this liquid masking agent from Model Detailers... and liquid it sure is! It runs horribly, so you have to place the masked area horizontal to keep it from running off the area you want to mask. After that fiasco, I went with the Tamiya tape that I had other issues with. The Model Detailers stuff is the purple tint on the windows of the one cab: That's as far as I got on all those so far. I have to wait for a warmer day to try and spray these later. I am happy with the progress so far though. Thanks for looking in, comments are welcome. Stay tuned, more to come.
  26. 1 point
    Attempting to get back to actively building with the old Monogram F9F-5P recon Panther. Planning to mark it as VC-61/VFP-61. Will have to finagle the markings from other sheets as the kit only comes with Marine squadrons. Good kit for its age. Not very many parts. Certainly not up to the detail of the Kitty Hawk Cougar or Banshee. I made 1 major error. I glued the upper halves to the lower wing before installing the lower wing to the fuselage. The instructions read to glue the bottom half of the wing to the completed fuselage. I think I've salvaged it by cutting the port wing off. It will require a little putty work to correct. Won't do that again. The initial primer work is done. Will assemble this weekend & shoot the 1st coat of Dark Sea Blue. Had hoped to have it ready for Blizzcon next weekend. Don't think I'll make it.
  27. 1 point
    Way to go Kevin. "Bob" looks great! I agree with Gil about the shirt. Bill
  28. 1 point
    Awesome. Love the base Dave
  29. 1 point
    I call my stash my hedge fund against inflation!
  30. 1 point
    https://www.aarp.org/personal-growth/life-long-learning/info-04-2009/modelmaking-a-great-hobby-for-your-brain.html
  31. 1 point
    EJ, In the photography forum under "on the bench" there are more pics from when I started this kit back in 2014. I will add some other pictures soon. I used the Squadron "USS Wasp In Action" book for reference and internet photos. I don't know if thatSquadron book is still available. Thanks for looking. Mark, Thank you. This took on a life of it's own and I'm glad it is over. I enjoyed most of the time on it but it did get to me after awhile. Thanks Tony; always appreciated. Bill
  32. 1 point
    This was a "Out of Box" project. This kit I will recommend as not a difficult build but loaded with nice items such as Missiles nice interior,Great Decals. This is my first attempt at a F-14 and their interesting "wear" schemes. Kit decals were by Cartograf and worked very well. Paint was Vallejo for most part with Gunze used for the Cockpit exterior section. Final finish was Testors "Dull-Coat" decanted. A friend of mine with aircraft photography said dirty and flat is accurate. Most photos I found verify this. Thanks for Looking Comments Welcome Regards Bill
  33. 1 point
    Ok, I finally got some shots yesterday of the model that I liked. First of all credit where credit is due. The decals are from Warbird and Ed got me some of the first one out there. That inspired me to try and get this done for Nat's which I did. This is a unique display that I have never seen before and have wanted to try for years. It uses a model cut in half and mounted on a mirror. There are obviously issues with photographing such a model. I solved those by placing it on a our patio table and using the real sky as a reflection. I also positioned it so I could get different effects from the sun and shadow. The last photo shows how the photo was arranged. I really like the way the photos look.
  34. 1 point
    After every build I usually clean up around the desk, and I notice this little mini which had fallen on the floor and got covered by a box. She's Miss Pumpkin Witch, from The Predastore. Since Halloween is right around the corner I decided to move this model to the front of the line. The 1/35 mini is part of the pin-up limited edition series. Mine was number 18 of 200. The model comes in 3 parts - the body/pumpkin, the arm with the knife, and the hat. As usual it's starts with a two tone priming - And then a base coat. What you're seeing here are the stocks before trying a smoky color. That ended up not working and decided to just take it easy and make a very pale purple stockings - Here we have a few highlights on the pumpkin, skin and dress. I also started detailing her face. WOW it's tiny! Thanks for looking.
  35. 1 point
    Thank you Peter @StrikeEagle, for your complimentive words. Glad you like the build log. ______________________________________ Now there was a matter of a partial house within the display boundaries. Assuming standard whole 'feet' measurements. I was able to get a good estimation of the house size. Decided to include interior lighting. Using an electronic ciruit which squences 5 outputs (LED lights). So, I divide the house into five rooms. Also added thin Perspex for windows. It was a bit tricky making the roof. Because the Masonite is 2.5 mm thick, I had to use wood putty to fill on the bevelled gaps. Included a painted figurine into the front enclosed verander. She is now overlooking the construction of the model Tested and created the sequencer circuit. Every 10 seconds one room light will turn off while an adjacent room switches on. This will appear as if someone is going from one room to the next.
  36. 1 point
    I wonder if we could send Adam Savage an IPMS membership?.... hehe... E
  37. 1 point
    Very interesting looking diorama. Well done. Are you going to add a few figurines? I think it would give it some more life and drama.
  38. 1 point
    Sharp looking display, you did great with all the details.
  39. 1 point
    For what it's worth, my Scale Publications website has been completely redesigned for easier use. Check it out and see what you think. Opinions and comments welcome.
  40. 1 point
    Mark, Thanks for very for providing this photo coverage of the Nats. I look forward to seeing the pics very much!
  41. 1 point
    They are part of the Eduard photo-etch set. The set has detail parts for the cockpit, landing gear bays, external panels, and flaps.
  42. 1 point
    Now, that's pretty neat! I'll have to give that a whirl at some point--although I may have to tweak it for 1/350 scale...
  43. 1 point
    Thanks Kev. You reminded me to post final images: Additional images can be found here: Super Jerry F.2
  44. 1 point
    I just found six different box sets of the Pactra International colors in a storage bin, and I have a Pactra small bottle paint rack that is still filled about 60% with unopened Pactra color bottles. Unfortunately, one of my favorite flat metallic colors that I could apply with a brush without streaks--Flat Metallic Gray--is gone. Testors metallics just do not apply well with a brush to any spot larger than 1/16th inch.
  45. 1 point
    Duh...boot scuffing dirt...gee, thanks, Mark! Glad you enjoyed the build. Now to see what my client thinks when he gets the model. Beauty shots coming in the next and last installment and the e-book will be available shortly thereafter.
  46. 1 point
    Last Sunday I was at the Pasadena Valleycon and was able to win the following raffle prizes: One of the last prizes available near the end of the raffle so I grabbed it: Since George had model railroading going on, he added some railroad accessories to the raffle: Now I have enough buildings to build a small town! LOL! I spent the rest of my birthday money in the vendor room but was only able to buy these two models: Now that I have that second Death Dealer, I can start building that one and preserve my San Diego Comicon exclusive! The next day, I found this package in my mailbox from James: Thanks James! Now to figure out what version to do. Man, I want two more now! LOL! Finally, my AMPS club met at Brookhurst Hobbies where I got to use my Brookhurst Hobbies Gift Card to help purchase this: Well, that's it for now. I'll be busy for awhile just working on some of these. I did start some of them; you'll see them in the "Maddog Manufacturing" Thread. Okay, now back to the bench.....
  47. 1 point
    After a few weeks of constant repairs, I finally got ahead of the broken parts and completed the Airfix USAAF resupply set. Since these are four individual vehicles, I'm posting them as individual models and counting them as such as well. Here they are.... First is my Cushman Model 39 Package Car: That Cushman is only about an inch long.... Next is my Chevrolet M-6 Bomb Service Truck: Here is the M-5 Bomb Trailer that the Chevrolet pulls: And finally here is the Autocar U-7144-T Tractor with F-1 Fuel Trailer: I didn't weather these much, given how they spent most of their time on paved runways and inside hangers. I am glad they are finally finished now. Next I'll be finishing up the RAF resupply set.... That's all for now. Thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.
  48. 1 point
    Years ago our Chapter had a building theme of "It Ain't My Type." We were supposed to build a model that was in an IPMS/USA Class where we would not ordinarily enter a model. Each member had to identify the Class(es) he did not like to build in, and then pick a kit and build it during the year. I do not know much about military vehicles, so I do not build tanks, field guns, railroad mortars, softskins, etc. I do like automotive subjects, however, and the nearest thing I could find to automotive in military vehicles was this truck kit. The kit represents a series of Firsts for me. This was my First true military vehicle. It was my First 1/35 scale kit. It was my First attempt at a three-color camo paint scheme. And it was NOT my First model to not be finished by the build deadline. Almost fully painted and detailed, it went back into the box and waited for me to tinker with it off and on for almost ten years. Last August, I was burned out on airplanes from the seven I built for The Magnificent 7's project, so I opened this box and decided to finish the assembly before beginning some new model. The camo scheme was the biggest challenge for me. The decal sheet had decals that spread across several color fields, and the lettering changed color in the middle of words, like "FLAMMABLE" for example. I tried to use the camo layout presented in the instructions, but the scheme did not match the provided decals. I had to draw a revised camo scheme onto the kit's pieces that was close to reference photos I had from the internet and also adjusted to accommodate the decals. Thank goodness there were reasonably close Model Master paints available for airbrush application. I actually liked this kit in spite of its flaws and complications. I have the Italeri sister kit of the Oshkosh M-977 Flatbed in my stash, but this one will get corrected resin wheels and tires and lots of Eduard photoetch details (which I have in the box). Some day I might even build it. Ed
  49. 1 point
    Well, that Tankograd book arrived today. Definitely get "Tankograd American Special #3022 - M60A2, M60A3 & AVLB" if you want to build the AVLB. It doesn't really help if you're going to build a A2 or A3 in my opinion. But then, who am I? ;-)
  50. 1 point
    This just came in. Believe it or not, I ordered this from Publisher's Clearinghouse: This looks like it'll be a fun one!
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