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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Model built for a Local Boy Scout Troop to Honor a local pilots service. P-38J from 394th FS of the 367 FG. Pilot perished in the channel on July 20 1944. Pilot was 1st Lt William L Mushrush from Steubenville OH Minecraft 1/48th P-38J with True Details interior, Eduard tires and Karaya gun barrels.The Aftermarket stuff way surpassed the Minicraft kit. Uschi Lines for antenna into a filament spring( Which you really can't see🙃) Alclad Polished Aluminum over Gloss Black Thanks for Looking Regards Bill D.
  2. 2 points
    Let me re-make a point here. Where is it written that a person MUST care if they win or lose at the contest? I know several people who attend, put the model on the table, and enjoy the rest of the convention without another thought about the contest. They enjoy looking at a roomful of models without it impacting their self-worth. Winning an award is gravy.
  3. 2 points
    Continuing forward I assembled the wings and detailed the main landing gear bays. I assembled the rear gun using the resin version and the photo etch gun sight and mounted the cannon gun sight above the dash. I then mount the wings. Found another issue when mounting them. The kit has spars to support the wings. I ended up cutting these off the kit assembly and attaching them to the fuselage. It was not difficult and the wings lined up very well to the fuselage. The engines came then. They were detail painted and then the copper intercooler for the intake was installed. The engines were then put into their cowls and mounted to the wings. The wings were then installed and the entire fuselage was painted with the base coat. Weathered and added the belly 37mm cannon and then the landing gear was painted and installed. Next up will be the camouflage painting. You can see all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ki-45-toryu-nick/
  4. 1 point
    Well, here it is more than a month later and I finally had time to actually work on something; thanks to Hobby Day Weekend. Here's my latest. I tried getting further along on several models, starting with the Russian glider. I managed to get it sanded down now, eliminating a lot of seams and issues: I got the wings and wheels on this bird now: Later I added more Mr. Surfacer to the wing roots and sanded it down. This bird is ready for paint now. After that, I decided to get caught up on some armor. The MAN Pershing tractor-trailer was advanced a bit when I got the missile cradle done on the trailer: The missile is removable for painting. I also completed all the assembly on the tractor. This is now ready for paint: This is looking good so far: Now I wanted to advance my BMP-3 Early a little more. I finished up the wheels, sprockets and tracks as well as the interior: Then I completed most of the upper hull and snapped it down on top, then added the turret to see how it looks: Almost there... After this, I decided the M-1114 Humvee languished long enough. I pushed ahead on this one, finishing the main body and part of the roof: After dry fitting the roof, I saw where other issues were going to happen: Yeah, that's back on the box for now... Moving on, I got the wheels and sprockets on the Nagmachon in preparation for the tracks: Afterward, I added the doghouse after installing the armored glass to it. I also 'primered' the wheels in preparation for the vinyl tracks as recommended so the vinyl doesn't melt the wheels: After this is gonna be a bunch of photo-etch and then some paint, some weathering, and then more photo-etch screens all over this. Fun times ahead! For a little break, I decided to work more on my 1/24 scale Coke truck. First, I had some ejector pin marks to fill: I don't know how much of that will be able to be seen, but I still want it looking good enough. Later I added the fenders to the main floor of this truck. The hood piece is only dry-fit to this: Time to wait on that again.... After this, I wanted something simple, easy and fun. So, remember that Bobcat kit of the airfield support vehicles I got? I pulled that out and got the vehicles all built. They are snap together so I can disassemble them as needed to paint details. For now though, I just played! Here's the Fire Truck: Later I realized that the hose nozzle was not attached to the roof so I drilled the hole and added it. Here's the Fuel truck: Yes, there is glass for the windows; I just left it off for painting purposes. Here are the two together, you can see the nozzle on the roof of the fire truck now: After that was the baggage handling tractor and trailer with the generator trailer: Here's the full set all together: BTW, there's figures with this set too.... After all this, I decided it was time to move on and get my church built. Remember the cross I bought for this? Well, I decided to cement it directly to the original tiny cross so I could use the support for the new cross: Now this will fit well on the church: And it does look good! I like this very much: Later on I painted all the white trim around the windows, doors and ledges: Later I'll get the cornerstones and then try to figure out how to do the stone walls and roof. Well, that completes this small update. Maybe I'll be able to get more done later, but I'm thinking it might be another month! Regardless, enjoy the tour and thanks for looking in!
  5. 1 point
    THIS IS ONLY A SURVEY. Its only purpose is to find out which judging system the membership prefers and report our findings to the E-board. I want to publicly thank the E-board because they have supported this survey so well from day one. IF, IF, IF, it was decided by the E-board that IPMS/USA was going to change judging formats, that would only occur AFTER they determined the proposal was workable. If anyone out there wants to propose a medal system of judging, now is the time to start. Grab some folks who agree with you, put together a committee and get started. I WOULD SUGGEST working with the E-board though. If you can't sell them the proposal, you're wasting your time and I promise they will ask critical questions a proposal must answer. Moreover, any proposal doesn't have to be similar to past GSB events as Dave pointed out. If your proposal involves judging teams (or not) and non-numerical scoring (or not), and a different number of awards, so be it. The E-board is always open to new ideas, which is why I suggest working with them. Believe it or not, they want what's best for IPMS/USA and this survey provides information so they can make an informed decision. Everyone knows how fast rumors start and spread on the Internet. Put the proposal HERE on the Forum for transparency! Once the word gets out a proposal is in the works, transparency is your only defense against the rumor mill. Check out the number of views for the survey. You will see it has collected 3,503 views so far! That's by a healthy margin, the most views any subject has yet to collect. My point being, the ideas are here. The knowledgeable people who know our system are here. Most of the E-board is here. Not all suggestions are worth considering, but some sure will be. So the forum is the place to iron out any potential wrinkles before submitting a proposal. I promise you, IF, IF, IF, GSB wins the vote, someone out there will be putting together a proposal. Enough gassing on. I'll be at the nationals somewhere around the registration area with survey forms and copies of the survey for anyone not competing or somehow missed sending in your survey card. If you don't vote, your preference will never be known. I don't care what it is; VOTE! See you there. 😉
  6. 1 point
    Also, Chattanooga has a version they use. You might wait until after the Nationals to contact them, they'll be a tad busy until then. (I'm speaking from experience here...) http://www.chattanoogascalemodelers.com/chattanooga-model-show/ For the awards themselves, contact Mission Awards. Their product is excellent, and they are affordable--we ordered 100 each Gold, Silver, and Bronze medals, and paid a little less than $3 per medal in 2018. That gave us enough for two shows (we still run a traditional IPMS 1-2-3 format contest). We designed a simple medal with the club logo, and it can be used from eyar to year as it is generic. They cost a whole lot less than engraved or sublimated plaques or traditional trophies, and a whole heap less than Lucite spears. https://www.missionawards.com/ Cheers! Ralph
  7. 1 point
    IPMS Three Rivers does this at Tricon also. Contact info is: Name: Bill Dedig Email: WEDJR@AOL.COM Dave
  8. 1 point
    David: email me at slowhandshodges@bellsouth.net and I can send you an outline. Otherwise, you can search some of the GSB topics on here and get a LOT of explanations of verious ways to do it. GIL
  9. 1 point
    My latest build: Godzilla from Mad Lab Models sculpted by the late Mike Parks. Hand finished in acrylics, artist inks and pigment powders. The goo on his foot is 5-minute epoxy painted in Tamiya clear red. Thanks for looking!
  10. 1 point
    As I posted some time ago, the camera setup in the Kitty Hawk Banshee kit doesn't resemble any aerial camera I ever saw. The mounting rack is a tubular affair with 3 vertical positions & several oblique positions. Attempting to scale it down to 48th scale is beyond my abilities & the tubing is thin enough I suspect it would be almost impossible to replicate. So, since the rack isn't visible once the access panels are closed, I figured it wouldn't make that much difference. Photo #1 is the original setup built as supplied in the kit. Photos #2 & 3 are my solution This is a fairly typical setup for a mapping mission. The cameras are from a CMK resin kit designed for the Tanmodel RF-84 but, they're the right scale and very similar to the cameras the Banshee would have carried. All that's required now is some paint & permanently mounting the cameras.
  11. 1 point
    Beautiful work so far. Keep it going man, it's great following another masterful build from you.
  12. 1 point
    How hilarious! What a scream! Fantastic job man, and thanks for posting this.
  13. 1 point
    Trevor Harm! I'm so thrilled to see you here. It's been awhile since we conversed on the old LEM; I'm also so glad you are still in the Hobby. Good luck on your venture and I hope to see you around more.
  14. 1 point
    Gil has summed up the PR problems in his last paragraph, but there is another. Many people outside the society still have the notion that we are just aircraft modellers. Why this still persists after fifty odd years is anyone's guess!
  15. 1 point
    Welcome Trevor! Glad you're here! Sure is nice to know that there are people like you doing what they can to keep hobby shops and plastic modeling alive. GIL
  16. 1 point
    Decals on and have started the weathering.
  17. 1 point
    " Perhaps they are afraid to admit they indulge in a so called "childish" hobby. " When I hear remarks like that, I tell them what Flagship Models made last year and the argument ends quickly.
  18. 1 point
    This build is the 1/48 Hasegawa Ki-45 Toryu (nicknamed “Nick”) and the scheme is the Manchukuo Air Corps version. The Ki-45 is a twin engine heavy fighter and was used for ground attack and as an interceptor. Manchukuo was a puppet state of Japan in located Manchuria that aided Japan in their Indo-China operations and later intercepting U.S. B-29’s that were fire bombing Japan. For this build I will be using the CMK resin cockpit detail set. I started by removing all the parts from the resin casting. The cockpit tub required very little trimming to fit in the fuselage. After some detail painting and adding some photo etch accessories I started installing the cockpit. I then found some errors in the CMK instructions. The first was the instructions show the dashboard mounted too far forward and does not show the control pedals. I had to remove it then relocated it to the correct position and added the control pedals. The second issue is the instructions do not inform you that the top of the dash on the kit needs to be notched in order to fit the cannon gun sight. Once these minor issues were corrected the cockpit tub fit in without any problems. I am now moving on to the wings and engine/landing gear bays. You can follow along on my blog in the build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ki-45-toryu-nick/
  19. 1 point
    Noel, IPMS/USA is what I consider a supply-and-demand organization where the contest is concerned. There are a lot of A/C categories because they are the most popular plain and simple. As an ex-head ship judge for the society, Nationals chairman, and ex-NCC member, I can tell you our categories are based on what shows up on a consistent basis. The head judges for each category have yearly records for numbers entered as well as the type of models. When I was a head judge, if there was a consistent and potential growing number of say, Martian aircraft carriers over a three year period, I would put in a request to the Chief Judge that a category or split be added to next year's contest to accommodate the increase in those models. If the request was granted by vote of the NCC, the category was added on a three year trial basis. This was done to insure that it wasn't a one time occurrence, and could be removed if numbers went down for three consecutive years. Under-attended categories also face removal by the same system. I realize this sounds like it would take some time to expand category numbers such as automotive, but that's the tried and true way IPMS/USA regulates its categories. Furthermore, the NCC must consider the cost to the host chapter when adding categories. Ideally, every category should have a sponsor which never happens; so the host chapter must foot the bill for un-sponsored categories from their profit margin. In short, "build it and they will come".
  20. 1 point
    Doesn't seem to be black electrical or "friction" tape either, which was common at the time. Of course, they could have simply painted masking tape....easy enough to do and it would account for the "blending in"..... GIL
  21. 1 point
    Here's a tiny resin kit from TD Cast. This was a 2015 Wonder Festival exclusive. Included a couple w.I.p. pics this time around. Once again hand finished in acrylics and artist inks with a scratch built base. Thanks for looking!
  22. 1 point
    I love the colors and the slit eyes but am I missing something? Shouldn't there be a string for that bow?
  23. 1 point
    Thank You for the suggestion, Gil. However, I think the taped-over guns flush with wing l.e. cannot be discarded altogether, as this was indeed how the early P-40D/Es were delivered to the front: source: The Hawk's Nest source: Replica In Scale This drawing also suggests that the guns (and shell ejector chutes) were covered with tape: source: Wings Palette Regards, Aleksandar
  24. 1 point
    Tedious painting on the Ki-45 camouflage continues. I tried masking the pattern and realized it was actually easier to just hand paint the jungle camouflage. The base coat is Japanese Army light green and the camouflage is Japanese Army dark green. In the end I really like the look of this camouflage. I then painted the wing leading edges yellow and the white fuselage stripe just forward of the tail. For the wing landing light I painted the light bezel chrome silver and filled it up with acrylic gel to simulate the lens. See all the details and photos in the blog build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ki-45-toryu-nick/ At this point I move the model to another table and upgraded the work bench area by adding work table to organize the work surface. Check out the updated photos of the working area on my blog at https://davidsscalemodels.com/gallery/the-studio/ The new workspace
  25. 1 point
    Hey GIl - Thanks very much for your support - yeah - I think if I heat them a bit they might return to shape. But the halves will still be ratty looking....a lot of filler and supporting tabs under the joins will be needed. Frankly, I am so discouraged I probably will just build the stock kit. Couldn't believe the owner of Greymatter, what a pill. He actually emailed me repeatedly bragging that he was continuing to sell the parts, despite the negative ebay feedback.
  26. 1 point
    FYI, it is farther from my house to Chattanooga than from Scapa Flow to London. In the UK, they think 100 miles is a long way. In the US they think 100 years is a long time. Dak
  27. 1 point
    You have made some good points Gil. Our geographical dispositions dictate to a greater extent the show format. Telford has developed over many years to what it is today. For many years the UK Nats as they were then ran for over 25 years in a very similar fashion to your own annual event. The competition still remains the core of the show as does yours. It is just that our show has developed slowly into today's format and the US has retained the format that works best for IPMS USA. Telford, because of how it developed naturally gives more opportunity to show models out of the competition, whereas the US Nats may be a bit more constricted for display space. Regarding winning or losing, a bit of philosophy. Your model will be no better or worse when you take it off the competition table to when you placed it on the table!
  28. 1 point
    Another great start for a true masterpiece. Regards Christopher
  29. 1 point
    Noel (and all): I totally agree with you, and IPMSUSA has JUST begun to try to step us in the direction of de-emphasizing the contest. They've recently mandated that beginning this year and at all future conventions the host MUST have as many Display Only tables as their venue can provide. Of course that is AFTER they've taken care of the contest area first, so it will vary from show to show. Still, up til now, "display" has been only an occasional afterthought. Now IPMSUSA is going to encourage guys who don't want to compete to bring their stuff to display. Personally, I've reserved 2 display tables for ANYONE that'll be dedicated vacuform and resin models. There are two major differences here in the USA as compared to the UK and Telford. First and foremost, our Nats is the way it is because it started out with a competition format and has steadily grown from there. It's a VERY successful show, and the old adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" applies to a great degree. Would it be as big and successful with less of a contest here in the USA? Perhaps.....but I'm not sure any host wants to take that financial risk since the current format is a "money maker". In other words, we're sort of stuck with what we have because it's what we've always done and it works well! The second difference, as I mentioned before, is our vast distances to our shows. Anyone in the UK is a day's drive from Telford. Even a lot of Europe can be there in a single day's travel time WITHOUT having to hop on a plane. That makes the transport of models and stuff needed for booths much more practical. I consider the upcoming Chattanooga show to be an easy drive, and it'll be close to 7hrs. I plan to drive to the Texas show in 2020, and that will involve two days of driving and probably no less than 20hrs travel time. The rest of the shows involve airplanes where you're lucky if you can carry more than one model on, not to mention the hassle of TSA security checks! Only in the eastern US, or possibly southern CA, where there's a greater density of clubs per state, could we possibly have what Telford has with club booths...but with no tradition of doing that, the "clubs" never really consider it. Rick Jackson NAILED IT in his post above. Just bring your models, put them on the contest tables and go enjoy the show for the sake of the show and don't worry about winning or losing! GIL
  30. 1 point
    Ralph's comment to a certain extent may be passionate about how he feels. But has competition got to be the be all and end all for IPMS? Telford is an example of how competition and exhibition can go hand in hand without people feeling that they have to compete. Many Modellers are not bothered one jot about competition, yet the models they enjoy just exhibiting would do well in competition! There is room for both within IPMS. We have to ask ourselves if we are a modelling society promoting the hobby or a modelling competition society? Everyone was a novice to start with, and we should be reaching out to those people as well as more established hobbyists. I fear that IPMS is in danger of taking itself a bit too seriously at times.
  31. 1 point
    Thanks Bill. All the sub assemblies have been completed. The missiles took quite a long time to paint and apply decals. I got this kit at a swap meet from a vendor. After a closer inspection of the kit, I noticed that it had been subjected to a lot of moisture. There was actually a light film of mold on top of the decal sheet. With a damp rag, it wiped right off. The staples were rusted on the instructions. The decals were a challenge. I experimented with pre-shading on the rudders, and elevators. I did something pretty stupid. I assembled the wings with the leading edge slates installed , WITHOUT looking at the instructions first. When it came time to attach the wings to the fuselage, they would not fit. After using a few #11 blades to carefully remove the slates and some sandpaper, the problem was fixed. I'll never do that again. Regards Christopher
  32. 1 point
    And yet again, when some low performing modeler berates one of our members with the painfully monotonous myth of IPMS rivet counters, our knee- jerk reaction is to rend our garments, beat our breasts, and fall on our xacto knives in shame. People will believe what they want to believe whether it is written on a bathroom stall wall or on the idiotnet. Nothing we can say or do will change that! Nor should we change. All IPMS has done over the past 50 years is give credibility to a hobby that was not taken seriously, help plastic modelers increase their skills and enhance their enjoyment of the hobby, demand that kit manufacturers take this hobby as seriously as we do and organize competitions that are as scrupulously fair as human integrity will permit! We have NOTHING to be ashamed of or apologize for. My personal experience of the people such as those whose uninformed comments you had to endure is that they are poor modelers whose work will not stand up under the most cursory of assessments. What we should be ignoring is the whining of these cry-babies whose skill level is so low that they are simply not competitive when faced with the standards of excellence that IPMS encourages and rewards in it’s members. Let’s all show a little more spine! Why should we seek an association with such narrow, hateful little minds? Regards, Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge
  33. 1 point
    King Brian is a character from the 1959 Disney movie Darby O'Gill and the Little People. From IMDB.com : The kit was sculpted Joe Laudati and came in 4 parts - His head, body, cape and base. While the figure is cast in resin, the base was cast in plaster. My guess is to give the base some weight, and the figure is dancing, and all the weight is on one foot. Looking at King Brian's costume, the main colors are 3 different shades of green, and then an orange tan for the vest. The shoes looked black, but I thought a very dark brown worked as well. The coins (and crown) were painted gloss black in prep for painting them with Vallejo Metallics Gold. The face was next, and it was impossible for me to find out the actors eye color, so I just defaulted for brown. Most all the colors were painted and when I went to glue on the cape, there was some filling needed. So I broke out the Aves and blended it in. To attach Brian to the base I added a rod thru his heel into the base. To save some weight the cater made part of the base hollow. No worries - the rod will still hold. Thanks Joe for autographing this. For safety, I added a rare earth magnet to his sole and the base. A few tries and it worked fine... until I added the cape. With the cape in place, the balance was lost and wanted to tip over backward. I figured I needed another rod, and to play it safe I thought that I should fill the void in the base with resin, and then add that rod. Check back for the conclusion. Thanks for looking.
  34. 1 point
    I have to say that this movie is in my top ten of favs. The roll of Harry was played by Kevin Peter Hall, a 6'9" actor whose other character of note was The Predator. Our kit comes in 2 pieces- the bust and the base. Molded and casted by Gillman Productions, there is only the smallest of evidence of a seamline across the back of Harry's head. There were no obvious bubbles anywhere on the kit. On the bottom of the base, sculptor Mark Van Tine was kind enough to give me an autograph, along with a little illustration. 🙂 The only negative on the kit was the build in rod to hold the bust to the base somehow got curved backward. So it couldn't just sit without falling over backward. No big deal a brass tube/rod or wooden dowel easily solves the problem. I primed the bust in the tan Stynylrez primer, and then set out to paint the figure. While Harry shows a lot of gray hair, I started off, as usual, with a dark brown. In the pic you can also see I started the lighter first highlight. The teeth was painted with Army Painters Skeleton Bone. This is close to both V's Dark Sand, and Iraqi Sand - it falls in between actually so if one is too dark and the other too light I have my remedy. While that was drying I turned my attention to the base. I knew I wanted to paint the name with the multi color look and I found an example where they used just red and yellow. But first I painted the rock V Gray Black. Sculpted in the flat part there are some leaves, a fern and some twigs. Here you see the leaves and the fern painted. Turning back to Harry, I finished off the first highlight, and then turned to the eyes. All evidence said Harry's eyes were blue, so I started with an Azure circle for the irises. The lines of light and dark blue, and finally a black pupil completed the eyes. I also washed the mouth in Citadel's Reikland Fleshshade, and then highlighted in Ivory. In all the pics, Harry has quite the bright smile. This session, the most obvious change is all the gray hair Harry has. It was actually a surprise how much there was in the mustache area. Next I added a little more dimension to the exposed skin. IIRC I remember added two more levels of highlight. Then final step was attaching it to the base. Rather than go out and look for a brass/plastic rod, I filled the hole in the bottom of Harry with Aves, and then when dry drilled out both Harry and the base. The rod I had was superglued, and held in place until dry. Finally he was finished. Thanks for looking.
  35. 1 point
    I recently completed the Sword 1/72nd scale kit of the Northrop N-9M Flying Wing. The aircraft (later, slightly different version N-9MB) has been in the news lately, since the restored prototype, owned by Planes of Fame, suffered a horrific crash, killing her pilot. Description of my model project can be found on my own Web site: https://www.somanyaircraft.com/models/projects/2019/n9m/
  36. 1 point
    Thanks for the clarification. He'll have to finish another!
  37. 1 point
    In an effort to collect Medusa kits whenever possible, I came across this kit at a not so recent JerseyFest (or was it the old Resintopia?). The kit came fro the Morland Studios. The kit comes in 6 parts plus a 60mm round base and the figure is scaled to 32mm. Following the card, I tried to copy the image. The small size of kit was a real trial to my limited abilities. The sculpted base comes in 2 parts, and they are made to attach together, but sitting on the round base, there was extra room. I decided to fill the black base. In the pic you can see gray Aves to fill the basesplitting the difference between rocks and sea. I also used V's Plastic putty to fill the seam between the monster/sea and the rocks. I made the tip of the snout of the monster shades of gray as if it was turning to rock, again a la the Clash of the Titans remake. Don't know how well that comes across being so little of the monster is seen. From there, I concentrated on the TINY details for the figure. There was no decal for the shield, so I tried my best, thinking of the Clash of the Titans remake, and painted on a scorpion. Finally adding some gloss to the scene, and gluing Perseus in place, I was finished. Thanks for looking. Size comparison to a Quarter
  38. 1 point
    Here's a couple shot of my Billiken MechaGodzilla 2 kit. This is a vinyl kit that includes white metal parts for the "fingers". Once again hand finished in acrylics and Tamiya Weathering System palettes. Thanks for looking!
  39. 1 point
    Here's another recent bust just off the work table. verybody's favorite painter, Bob Ross. He's approx. 1/4 scale and done up with Vallejo paints. Over on the Resin Maniac's page on FB, they are having a Bob - Off. Anyne who bought one is urged to paint it up for the show. On tv Bob used a clear palette that was scuffed up to prevent glare from the TV lights. I saw a few guy's WIP and they all used gray for the palette, so I naturally had to go completely the other way and got to practice my wood grain at the same time. Thanks for looking.
  40. 1 point
    Right from the start, I must admit I'm not the biggest Fantastic Four fan. But I thought the plan for the kit where Susan herself could be cast in clear resin was ingenious. The kit was sculpted by Tony Spangler, and molded and casted by Mark Kaelin. The kit comes in 5 parts - the head and shoulders, the body, a "4" base and a nameplate. Looking at the kit the clear head and shoulders casts was an excellent idea. Pulling it off I'm sure was problematic. Giving it a close look small bubbles can be seen inside and there was one under her nose. Now with it clear, it can't be filled. But with a bath of Future, many of the bubbles became invisible or at least less emphasized. Next up, looking at the colors for Susan's uniform, between the comics, cartoons and now the movies + fan art there are a multitude of colors and styles. So in the end I chose a simple light blue color and a dark blue stripe. I also added a steel color and medium blue to the emblem on the chest. While all that was drying, I turned my attention to the base. Both were colored in a light Steel color, and then then highlighted in blue. Masked up for the blue paint. I felt something else needed to happen with the seams in the clothing. I have some Gundam Markers and thought I could run some blue into the seam lines... no blue. I wanted to do this, so in the end I used the black pen. They are very easy to use, and fairly simple to clean up if you go outside the lines. With that I was all done. Thanks for looking.
  41. 1 point
    The best place I've found to "hang out" is a forum called The Clubhouse ( www.theclubhouse1.net) . They have a bunch of sub forums, but it's majority is figure kits. Three sub- forums in particular are the "Sculptors Forum" where guys show off their sculpting work, many of which go on to become kits. Susan was discovered this way. I actually watched the sculpt come together. The other one is "New Kits, Special Offers, Coming soon" is a place where you can talk to the sculptor/producer to make your purchases of these new kits. The 3rd is "Members Swap and Sell" where members of the group sell off kits they no longer want. The admins take special care to keep ppl from getting ripped off, in that one has to be a member for a certain amount of time, and is active in the forum community to become a registered seller. Two other places are for those who go to Facebook. One group is Figure Model Kits. It's a Show and Tell type of group, but the admins also allow sales. Another similar group is called Resin Maniacs. Both have friendly people who will give advise when asked, and you see kits for sale from time to time. HTH.
  42. 1 point
    This one came from DcDevitt Studios exclusively for member of his Patreon page who opted for a certain level. Troy does some outstanding work. Anyway here he is. First is the raw resin. Thanks for looking.
  43. 1 point
    1/35th Stalingrad beach girl series. The accessories are mostly from Meng. All painted with enamels. Dak
  44. 1 point
    Old figure I finally finished. Mostly painted with oils. Dak
  45. 1 point
    This model is another model from deep in the stash. I remember buying the model from the Buy and Sell section of a forum. The sculptor was Chris Lynch, and looking at Boba's size, I'm guessing it's around 1/10th scale. I have no further info on it. Even doing a web search, that title gets exactly 1 hit from a guy on a Star Wars Models website who had it listed on his "wants" page. It's not from one of the movies, but maybe a comic or some book? The kit came in about 10 parts. Boba's body and the bird; Boba's head, his two arms and rifle, the two sand people heads, a gun in a holster, some bag that had no apparent place to go, and the two parts of the birds restraint. It also came with a length of cord, and a length of "pleather". The resin was mostly in good shape, but it did need a little work. I didn't think to take a pic before starting, but here we are with most of the parts attached - The bird was tackled first. With it supposedly from Tatooine, I figured it was to blend into a sandy, rocky background. So the bird was made up of browns and other neutral colors. I figured the model needed a splash of color, so blue was added to the bird's crest and around his eyes. This color choice will come in handy later. The ground work is just a dark sand and and an orange ocher Next turning my attention to Boba, I started filling in the colors that I remembered. There was a few times where I had to look up exactly what color went where. At this point I also painted in the Sand People heads with Iraqi Sand and White Aluminum for the metal parts. Around their mouth was a brown leather color and the bottom of the mouth looked really dark. I ended up painting it a German Gray. The blaster was painted with VMC Gunmetal, and then highlighted lightly in silver. The silver was also used to create the scratches around his armor. It was here I thought the bird needed a little more color, so I took the Cavalry Red I used for his gauntlets, and highlighted the birds feathers. This is where I left it for the day. A few days later I was back and it was time to finish up Boba. The first thing to do was paint the backpack. Here's where a little indecision came in. He seems to have changed his uniform between ESB and ROTJ. In ESB his back pack was mostly green (also green gauntlets), but in ROTJ the backpack was more colorful including an ocher color, a red, and even blue! So to harmonize the model; the red is the same color as the gauntlets, and I reduced the saturation of the blue by adding black, and then I lightened it by adding the gray from his jumpsuit. While this was drying, I glued in the restraints to the birds collar. When the CA on that dried, I wrapped the pleather around the collar, and then according to the line diagram that came with the kit, around the saddle horn and back to the other part of the collar. I dipped the cord in Citadel's Agrax Earthshade, glued it in loops and then just hung it around the Sand People heads. This was another model I could fiddle with forever, so instead I called this one done. Thanks for looking.
  46. 1 point
    The stencil for the scales hasn't arrived yet, but I'm finished with her besides that I couldn't resist a few pics. Now, I'm reconsidering even needing the scales ... Thanks for looking.
  47. 1 point
    This is one of the Soda Pop Miniatures, Maid Service, part of the Takoashi University game series. Thanks!
  48. 1 point
    Latest finished piece.
  49. 1 point
    A 1/72 LST would display all that armor nicely.
  50. 1 point
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