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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/14/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    I agree, but at the same time realize these are things often hard to judge without first hand knowledge. Every operational vehicle I have been on or in is covered with foot prints. Still, many build their models as a case of immaculate perception. But it isn't fair for someone to do things correctly, but lose to a model with a lot of inaccurate, but aesthetically appealing details. I would love to see someone do a piece for the Journal on the basic dos and don'ts of modern armor stowage. It wouldn't have to be an in depth thing, just a photos and such showing authentic things. The more people know will make them better builders and judges. Dak
  2. 2 points
    I just got my first box of True North paint in. Haven't used it yet and know nothing about it beyond their website and a couple of telephone conversations with the company president. I'll let you know what I think about it as I start using it. About all I can tell you right now is that I'll be using it in my next Modelbuilding Guide ebook, I opened a couple of bottles and I like what I see, definitely thick enough to hand brush nicely, still thin enough to airbrush without being prethinned AND it isn't an acrylic. Oh, yeah, one more thing. The FS numbers are on the back of the label in font that's large enough to actually read. Odd place, you say? Well, it beats having it squeezed down to the point you need an Optivisor in order to read it on the front of the label.
  3. 2 points
    Excellent work. Just for comparison, here's the first model of this vehicle in 1/35/2 scale, the old Monogram one. What a difference 40 years makes.
  4. 2 points
    Since when did abdominal laparotomy sponges become a household item? 😳 Does the Health Department know about this? 😀 Nick Filippone
  5. 2 points
    This is what I have been working on for the last few weeks. Love these kits. This makes #6. The base kit builds like this: MK44 AmmoKnight. But I glued on a few greeblies and used lots of putty. To get to this point. I'm still tinkering with tiny details but the majority is finished.
  6. 2 points
    I don't like their paints anymore so no effect for me. Using Tamiya and others Dave
  7. 1 point
    Mike, Yes, white can be tricky. Only way I can get it right is that since white covers so poorly and you may have different colored things on your model such as fillers, PE parts or other colored plastic, to get one color that the white can cover, first apply a light grey primer, then a coat of FLAT white that covers the primer evenly. When that is set, if it is at all rough, go over it with either very fine sandpaper (600 grit or higher) or very fine steel wool being careful to avoid burning through the white. Gil Hodges has even been known to use a small piece of burlap as a buffer as it is soft yet has just the right amount of "grit". When you've removed any orange-peel, apply fine coats of gloss white until a nice even color is achieved. As painters say, keep a wet edge. If you apply gloss white over gloss white that has started to "skin" over, it won't mix with then paint already applied and will sit on top and may orange peel. Then leave it alone for at least a day so the top coat can set. It's a little involved, but does produce an even coat of white. You can use this same procedure for other "problem" colors such as red or yellow, just use the flat version of those colors for the coat between the primer and top coat.
  8. 1 point
    The 1/48 Hasegawa F-8E Crusader is now complete. This was a decent kit to put together. The fit was pretty good except the canopy. It seems it’s just a hair to thin for width. Trying to fit it to the fuselage was difficult and still ended up with a slight edge. The cutting edge decals were a little thick. The rest of the kit was fine and the instructions were very good. So now it sits on the display shelf with the other VF-111 aircraft. Check out the entire build from start to finish at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-8e-crusader-from-vf-111/
  9. 1 point
    For those who might be interested :BUILD THREAD Here are the finished pictures of my 1/72 scale Muroc Models F-8C conversion of the Academy F-8E kit, with raised wing and dropped flaps and slats: Had a few little glitches here and there, but I'm glad to have it in the collection! Thanks for looking in... Ed
  10. 1 point
    Hi Gil, No the conversion kit came with only the nose, canopy, a new launch bridle attachment point and some decals. The wing, etc. rework was first done with the kit parts, as I was only going to do the flaps, etc. When I finally decided to do this aircraft, the wing tips looked so cool that I just had to raise them, and used the Wolfpack designs conversion kit for that. But, the Wolfpack kit didn't want you to raise the wings, so I had to modify them also. Everything is explained in the build thread, linked to in the first sentence above. Ed
  11. 1 point
    First you have to designate whether you're discussing your topic as applied to contests and judging, or just building for yourself. If you're building for yourself, anything goes. BUT, the caveat to that is when you build something of spurious genealogy with weird paint and it looks funky (as you intended); expect to be questioned on it at a meeting or on line. You cannot build "outside the ballpark" and expect others to understand, agree that it's "right" the way you built it, or like what you produced. The only aesthetic involved there is whatever beauty your eye beholds. In the context of contests, there ARE expectations to met. To answer your first question, craftsmanship is always more important than accuracy. A poorly built but accurate model will not attract many second looks, nor impress any judges. The BASICS that IPMSUSA judges by are simply expectations of craftsmanship that must be met to be competitive and win. As for accuracy, IPMSUSA doesn't judge it. It's discussed a LOT because (usually) it allows Joe Blow to show off his area of expertise to others at the meeting or on line.However, it's craftsmanship that almost always determines the winners and losers, with degree of difficulty being the first tie-breaker, and "accuracy" only as an absolute last resort. As for the aesthetics, I prefer AUTHENTICITY over accuracy. By that, I mean there's a ballpark you can stay inside of and meet people's (and judges) expectations while straying from absolute accuracy. If your scheme calls for OD over Neutral Gray, then the top better be some sort of muted camo green and the bottom better by some shade of gray. BUT, there's plenty of room withing shades of both of those colors to allow for variations that some experts might raise an eyebrow at. The same goes for any other myriad of details or markings....if you get it in the ballpark, generally the aesthetics will be acceptable. The only time I believe that accuracy must equal craftsmanship would be a build for posterity, say for a museum, or for a veteran. That type of build comes with higher expectations, especially if your model will be used to educate any viewers. GIL
  12. 1 point
    Talk about a blast from the past. This is another that has been on my shelf since 2012! Sculpted by Chris Elizardo, and produced by "Teddy Novak". It came as a one piece bust approx 1:4 scale. With no eyes, It was also another easy one to do. Using the following image, I matched up the colors the best I could. First step, as usual was to get the base colors down - A few days later, I was able to get another session in and get the bust finished. I was thinking about added the snow and what not, but decided to keep it simple. Thanks for looking.
  13. 1 point
    This week’s work on the Hasegawa 1/48 F-8E Crusader starts at the wings. I detailed the bay under the main wings by adding some styrene rods and 32 AWG wire. I used some reference photos to duplicate the placement of them. The wings were then installed in the raised position and the aircraft wa base painted with Gull Gray and white. The kit only comes with rockets for weapons and I wanted to use missiles so I looked through my extras bin and found two AIM-9 sidewinders. I used decals from a spare decal sheet then I added the IR head using the tutorial in my tips and tricks section: https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/how-to-make-laser-and-ir-sensor-heads/ The jet exhaust was weathered with blue, brown, gray, and black pastel chalk. The decals are being placed now. The Cutting Edge decals were a little on the thick side so getting them to lay down took lots of effort as well as lots of MicroSol. Most of them are on just need to do the small stencils the finish up the cockpit and canopy. Check out all the details from start to finish on my blog at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-8e-crusader-from-vf-111/
  14. 1 point
    Spurious Works For Me. It is all about having fun, right! Were you able to carbon date that plastic?
  15. 1 point
    A blob of glue is sloppy modeling, lousy craftsmanship, pure and simple! It is what eliminates an entry loooong before accuracy is even thought about in the judging process. Nick Filippone, Seniors National Judge
  16. 1 point
    Dragon kit with some minor additions to make it an earlier production version. Figures are from Warriors and D-Day. Used Fruilmodel tracks. I'm taking this to San Marcos next year. Note all the foot prints on the vehicle. Dak
  17. 1 point
    Here's the IPMS review of the kit http://www.ipmsusa.org/reviews/Archive/Kits/Aircraft/Trumpeter_32_P-38L/Trumpeter_32_P-38L.htm Dave
  18. 1 point
    Chris, Haven't built the kit, but I have one. Whenever I get around to it, I'm hoping to convert it to a P-38G. Nothing like being a glutton for punishment, is there? Anyway, good luck on your project. Sounds like it'll be a spectacular model when its finished. and also an ideal entry in the 2020 Nats in San Marcos, Texas. Richard
  19. 1 point
    This is simply not true in IPMS judging. While we may give the builder the benefit of the doubt, we do judge gross accuracy and often in the specific. GENERALLY SPEAKING....While an airplane with a crooked part may not be "good craftsmanship", it is also not "accurate". Tanks with floating tracks are not accurate, but it is also considered poor craftmanship. We may not judge specifics like the location of a unit marking or the shade of color, but we do judge accuracy. If not, then why put so much time into the effort? We could just pick the ones we think are pretty. Generally speaking, heavy rubble with a neatly cleared path for a tank's tracks shows a lack of consistency, which is a consideration in judging. Many times I have seen vehicles put into locations where it would be impossible to get into...or out of.... without a helicopter. This is poor craftsmanship and shows a lack of consistency. Dak
  20. 1 point
    I do not disagree, but it is not realistic and counts heavily (or should) against the builder when it comes to a contest. If I didn't want to do seatbelts in an airplane because I found it difficult, people would not be sympathetic. Dak
  21. 1 point
    Per the hotel website, they have 283 rooms, so a 260 room block is a decent set-aside
  22. 1 point
    Everyone has their own style. That’s what makes it art. Dak
  23. 1 point
    Bill: IPMS does run mostly on the honor system. The requirement is that ALL officers AND the Chapter Contact MUST be IPMS members. It does NOT say how many officers you have to have nor limit anyone from doing more than one "job" in the club. Thus, if you list a President, who is also the CC; and he/she is an IPMS member; you met those requirements. The only real "check" that can be run is that the 5 national members you list are indeed current IPMS members and that none of them are in the "list of 5" (being counted) for any other IPMS club besides yours. Believe me, if you plan to do anything club-wise on public property, it PAYS to be chartered and have the insurance. You cannot get it privately for anywhere near the cost of chartering the club and joining IPMS. Why else should you charter? To support the ONLY plastic model organization that promotes ANY and EVERY model genre! There are other groups out there that concentrate on armor, or cars, or figures (etc.); but only IPMS encourages model building of any kind AND provides categories in their contests for all those at most of their shows. If you want your club to grow as quickly as possible, then you need to be willing to welcome model builders of all types. Being an IPMS CLUB states right up front that THAT is what you're aiming to do. Hope this helps! GIL
  24. 1 point
    Revell's big Saturn-V with a few minor mods. Botched it at age ten; still a challenging kit. Still got my scrapbook, too.
  25. 1 point
    Finished the Saturn Knight. Additional images can be found here: MK44 SaturnKnight And I got the family together for the weekend.
  26. 1 point
    I have always wondered what kind of upfits or refits occurred before the Motion Picture Enterprise hit the big screen so I came up with my version of a "tweener" Kongo represents the time period between the Star Trek tv series and the Motion Picture Enterprise. Kongo has phaser bumps/turrets, a scratchbuilt torpedo pod on the connecting dorsal, the deflector has been recessed into the secondary hull, I painted/added the windows for the arboretum and gave the ship custom nacelle caps at both ends courtesy of JT Graphics. The ship was finished in a 4 color Aztec pattern to more closely resemble her big screen sister.
  27. 1 point
    Some updated pics, kind of gives an idea where I'm going with this. Pictured are the arm positions and some of the TA-50 equipment of the figure, not pictured are the grenades, AN-PRC25 field radio, butt pack ect…..
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