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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Model built for a Local Boy Scout Troop to Honor a local pilots service. P-38J from 394th FS of the 367 FG. Pilot perished in the channel on July 20 1944. Pilot was 1st Lt William L Mushrush from Steubenville OH Minecraft 1/48th P-38J with True Details interior, Eduard tires and Karaya gun barrels.The Aftermarket stuff way surpassed the Minicraft kit. Uschi Lines for antenna into a filament spring( Which you really can't see🙃) Alclad Polished Aluminum over Gloss Black Thanks for Looking Regards Bill D.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    My largest misgiving on this whole survey is that it put the cart before the horse. I stated such when work began, I said so when the questions were being written, and I'm saying it now. The first question that needed to be asked is "What does IPMS/USA envision the purpose of it's National Model Contest to be?" Does IPMS/USA want to simply pick the best models presented at that show on that day? (OR--Does IPMS/USA want to recognize well-built models and more or less ignore the rest?) If that's the goal, they already have it in the 1-2-3, comparative/triage judging currently in use. Does IPMS/USA want to aid modelers in their efforts to become better modelers? (OR--Does IPMS want to offer structured feedback and advice to the modeler in an effort to help them help themselves?) If this is where the aim is, look to the AMPS system. Does IPMS/USA want to recognize a modeler's body of work entered in a given show on a given day? (OR--Does IPMS/USA want to reward a modeler for their effort on that day?) If this is what they're looking for, check out the MMSI Chicago System. (As an aside, I note that several of the IPMS Open Judging systems in use on the local level--Jaxcon, Chattanooga, etc.--are a hybrid of all three.) Those questions needed to be asked before the survey questions were issued. They needed to be asked before the questions were written. Next, a rudimentary structure for said Open Judging system needed to be developed before the survey was released. Why? We now have four (maybe five by now) pages in this thread of "why". The way the survey is worded is akin to asking your kid if he wants baked chicken for dinner, or "something else". When the kid asks, "What's the something else?", the only answer you have for him is "I don't know, and I can't tell you until you choose it--it hasn't been defined." So, the kid either goes with chicken, something he knows and kinda likes, or--if he's adventurous--takes a stab at the pig in a poke, which could be pizza. It could be liver. Or, the kid could spend the next day speculating as to what "something else" is and go hungry. The smart kid goes with the chicken. What infuriates me is the President's Column in the July/August Journal, where Ron Bell stated that, and I quote, "We just thought it was time to get this issue settled once and for all and put it behind us, one way or another." (Emphasis is mine) What this tells me is that the E-Board has a closed mind and has no vision of growing and changing the Society with the times per the membership's wishes. This attitude, I believe, has caused people to leave IPMS/USA and go to AMPS and to other organizations (even forming other organizations--look to the South Carolina Modelers Association as an example), never to look back. I personally know at least a dozen former IPMS/USA members who left and won't come back. One (a former E-Board member, no less) once told me that he tried to change the system, but was met with, as he called it, "the IPMS/USA Good Old Boy's Stone Wall." When I asked why a stone wall, he stated that "it is cold, deaf, uncaring, and unyielding." Couple that to the IPMS/USA Chief Judge's attempts to color the current system as "The Best. Judging. System. Ever.!", and paint Open Judging as an effort to see that "everyone wins a trophy", and it indicates that the E-Board is using this survey merely as an attempt to look like they are listening to the membership without intending to change a thing. The motion will fail, then they will say "We've done that, it failed, end of story" the next time this same issue is brought up. In this thread alone, there's already an IPMS/USA Past President doing that very thing, looking back to a failed effort in 2004--as if nothing changes over time. I am a proponent for Open Judging, believing that a well developed, uniform system could yield good results over time. A well-defined, thought-out system CAN work--but it will require several things to happen. Most importantly, it requires a buy-in from the majority of the membership. If the membership doesn't believe in it, it won't matter what system is used--it will fail. It will take time and a lot of effort to change--it won't happen overnight, and will probably require a years-long phase in. Start at the local level, iron out the bugs, take it to the Regional level, work out the new bugs, then move it to the National level--where, undoubtedly, more issues will come to the fore and will need to be dealt with. Rome wasn't built in one day, nor will any sort of new-to-the-organization judging system. My vision for an Open Judging system extends to more than the Nationals--it needs to be a UNIVERSAL system, required to be used by ALL IPMS/USA Chapters at ALL IPMS/USA sanctioned contests, whether they be local, Regional, or National. Judges will need to have formal training and periodic re-training. Whatever system used needs to be applied consistently and reviewed periodically, updating it as needed. Without these things, all you will wind up with is an Open Judging version of what we have now. The current system is only required to be used at the Nationals--local contests can simply say they will hand out medals to every fifth pink model that comes through the door and call it an IPMS contest, if that's what the host Chapter wants to do. The word, and I've used it many, many times before, is Standardization. Have a standard, uniform, universal system that is required throughout IPMS/USA. "But, how can you require us to do anything?" Easy--it comes with the deal. You wanna be an IPMS/USA Chapter? You agree to the terms set out by IPMS/USA. Period. Don't like it? Don't play. But that probably won't happen. If we talk about the Chicago System, some see it as "limiting the number of models on the table"--when, actually, nothing is limited EXCEPT the fact that the entrant, if the scored model in their group scores enough points, takes home ONE award for their body of work. AMPS, likewise, encourages the entrant to self-asses their work and only enter one model per category. Why? Because they will only take home the award for their model that scores the highest in any given category, so even by entering eight M4 Shermans into Allied Armor, WWII will only yield ONE medal. "But I want the feedback!" Usually, as the models are judged, the same faults are found on all the models entered by that person. How many times do you need to read "Watch the floating tracks" before you realize that you need to do just that? The examples above also serve a purpose--it eases the burden on the judges. They don't have to judge 500+ (or 1000+, or 10,000+) models, the judging goes quickly, and the end result is the same. This is why "Display Only" has been a standard category for AMPS for as long as I've been a member. Submit your best work for evaluation, put the rest in Display Only. The goal of the show isn't about "winning" or "losing", it is about showing off your work. But I am not optimistic that any of what I just wrote will come to pass. IPMS/USA has slowly evolved their contests into bloodsport--the winner take all, "I'm the GOD OF STYRENE!" attitude has eroded any semblance of friendly competition. Even the survey says it--Advantage #2 of the 1-2-3 system is stated as "models vie head-to-head for awards, creating a healthy (really?--me) spirit of competitiveness amongst (sic) our members." And why do we feel the need to compete, anyway? I get it--'Murica and all that. But a very vocal minority has taken an enjoyable pastime and twisted it into yet another way they can climb to the top of the pile, beat their chests, and wail at the moon... I will now go back to my position of a few years ago--Exhibition only, no contest, no awards. Make it about the models, NOT the medals. After all, everyone says they enter shows to show off their work, right? So, by their own admission, the awards don't matter--and following that logic, that means the method used to determine the awards likewise doesn't matter, but some will NEVER enter a contest judged by a system they don't like. Funny, that... Club stands, SIG stands, vendors, food, and friendship. Hang out with a bunch of like-minded people and enjoy the show by looking at, talking about, and sharing techniques for scale models. Screw the contest, screw the judges, and screw the awards... Ralph
  4. 2 points
    This was a bust I found on one of the announcement pages on FB. It's by Grimm. I tried looking for his info for this write up, but after an hr., I could find it. If I do I will make an edit and add it. The kit is one piece sculpt, very well done, in a gray resin - no bubbles, or seam marks. The figured reminded me of one of the villains in a Scooby-Doo cartoon, so decided to make him a ghost. Started with the black primer, and then was working on his navy colored coat. Then added a dark gray drybrush to the face, then added color to the barnicles, seeweed, and sweater. Another lighter gray - I want to make the glow coming from his face and OCL lighting on parts of the beard and coat. A little highlight to the coat and cap. I thought I took a pic of the ghostly glow, but didn't. The bluish,green glow color was made by drybrushing Citadel's Nihilakh Oxide where I needed it. I then highlighted that with V's Foundation White. I touch the Nihilakh Oxide and White to the rips in his coat to make it look like glow was coming out of them, and for a little added color. Thanks for looking.
  5. 2 points
    Let me re-make a point here. Where is it written that a person MUST care if they win or lose at the contest? I know several people who attend, put the model on the table, and enjoy the rest of the convention without another thought about the contest. They enjoy looking at a roomful of models without it impacting their self-worth. Winning an award is gravy.
  6. 2 points
    My model is the Italeri 1/72 scale Fiat CR-32 Chirri." It represents an aircraft assigned to XXIII Grupo Caccia, Aviazione Legionaria. The unit was led by Lieutenant Colonel Andrea Zotti and based at Puig Moreno, Spain, June-July 1938. The unit formed part of the Italian contingent fighting for the Nationalist cause during the Spanish Civil War. I used the Osprey Fiat CR-32 Aces of the Spanish Civil War (Aircraft of the Aces 94) for inspiration; profile 28. I wanted to model Zotti's aircraft; he flew "3-4", but I only had the decals for "3-6". The model was built out-of-the-box except for the rigging. Took me 3-months to figure out I can't paint Italian camouflage with an airbrush freehand and another 3-months and a lot of Tamiya tape to manage that effort. I enjoyed the build; never worked harder to complete a model...
  7. 1 point
    Thanks Gil for the very detailed reply.
  8. 1 point
    I totally agree with the Tamiya Fine White primer as a good starter for any light color paint overcoat. Another need is to then "polish" that primer coat a bit. It usually has a very "baby powder smooth" finish when correctly applied, but I recommend using either a very fine (1000grit or higher) sand paper, or very coarse paper towel (if no fine sand paper is at hand), in order to have a nearly glass smooth surface to apply your gloss paint to. In my experience, as nice as the TFWP is, it's a "dull white", and not a bright white color, which is what you need for an airliner. If you normally use enamels or lacquers, I recommend Model Master Gloss White, thinned with lacquer thinner, and misted on in a few fine coats. It's a much brighter white, which I believe you'll see as soon as you apply it over the primer white finish. Decals can be applied directly over the gloss white, and then you can then apply the clear gloss of your choice to seal them and add a bit more shine. Others who use acrylics can recommend a good acrylic gloss white to use, but the point I'm trying to drive home is that as nice as the Tamiya Fine White primer is, it is not as bright a white as a gloss white paint, especially for airliner liveries. Hope this helps! GIL
  9. 1 point
    You're right.....all of us who tout GSB are really just aiming to undermine IPMSUSA and ruin the Nats. It can't possibly work (because it's never been done). And of course you, like the NCC, want a fully written and detailed proposal to be examined and parsed (and then dismissed) because it doesn't look plausible on paper (to you). That can never be done, so people who want complete assurance that it'll work with no problems or adjustments will never be comfortable with any "proposal". As I said before, I'm not saying you're wrong, but GSB proponents are making it work NOW. But, since you think you have a better idea, exactly where are YOU implementing your SWS? Where are you putting your ideas on the line to be tried? If we agree that the 1-2-3 system (although it does work) is the least beneficial to IPMSUSA for future growth of our Society, then start working towards making a change where you are. You may indeed have a better way, but I guarantee that even if you crossed all your T's and dotted your I's in a "proposal"; it would be dismissed by IPMSUSA and the NCC just as quickly as GSB (or simply put out in a "survey"). Show them how good your idea is by making it work at a successful local and/or regional show. As for our show, Jaxcon, we're looking to keep growing our show so that we HAVE to "scale up" our GSB system. We're already 1/3 the size of the Nats and hope to hit 1/2 (1000+ models) in the next 5yrs. We currently judge those 600+ models in 4-5hrs with only 20 or so judges. So yes, I DO think that 4 to 5 times that number of judges over 2-3 days could judge 2000-2500 models. Until that's actually put to the test, you and I will just have to agree to disagree. Part of this debate and discussion has a LOT to do with breaking "traditions". As I stated above, IPMSUSA does NOT like to do that, and thus not only do you have to prove a new system will work, you have to overcome people's wanting to poke holes in new ideas and their loathing of change. Best of luck, whichever side you end up on, I've covered everything I can think of. Y'all can have at it the rest of the way! GIL
  10. 1 point
    Well, here it is more than a month later and I finally had time to actually work on something; thanks to Hobby Day Weekend. Here's my latest. I tried getting further along on several models, starting with the Russian glider. I managed to get it sanded down now, eliminating a lot of seams and issues: I got the wings and wheels on this bird now: Later I added more Mr. Surfacer to the wing roots and sanded it down. This bird is ready for paint now. After that, I decided to get caught up on some armor. The MAN Pershing tractor-trailer was advanced a bit when I got the missile cradle done on the trailer: The missile is removable for painting. I also completed all the assembly on the tractor. This is now ready for paint: This is looking good so far: Now I wanted to advance my BMP-3 Early a little more. I finished up the wheels, sprockets and tracks as well as the interior: Then I completed most of the upper hull and snapped it down on top, then added the turret to see how it looks: Almost there... After this, I decided the M-1114 Humvee languished long enough. I pushed ahead on this one, finishing the main body and part of the roof: After dry fitting the roof, I saw where other issues were going to happen: Yeah, that's back on the box for now... Moving on, I got the wheels and sprockets on the Nagmachon in preparation for the tracks: Afterward, I added the doghouse after installing the armored glass to it. I also 'primered' the wheels in preparation for the vinyl tracks as recommended so the vinyl doesn't melt the wheels: After this is gonna be a bunch of photo-etch and then some paint, some weathering, and then more photo-etch screens all over this. Fun times ahead! For a little break, I decided to work more on my 1/24 scale Coke truck. First, I had some ejector pin marks to fill: I don't know how much of that will be able to be seen, but I still want it looking good enough. Later I added the fenders to the main floor of this truck. The hood piece is only dry-fit to this: Time to wait on that again.... After this, I wanted something simple, easy and fun. So, remember that Bobcat kit of the airfield support vehicles I got? I pulled that out and got the vehicles all built. They are snap together so I can disassemble them as needed to paint details. For now though, I just played! Here's the Fire Truck: Later I realized that the hose nozzle was not attached to the roof so I drilled the hole and added it. Here's the Fuel truck: Yes, there is glass for the windows; I just left it off for painting purposes. Here are the two together, you can see the nozzle on the roof of the fire truck now: After that was the baggage handling tractor and trailer with the generator trailer: Here's the full set all together: BTW, there's figures with this set too.... After all this, I decided it was time to move on and get my church built. Remember the cross I bought for this? Well, I decided to cement it directly to the original tiny cross so I could use the support for the new cross: Now this will fit well on the church: And it does look good! I like this very much: Later on I painted all the white trim around the windows, doors and ledges: Later I'll get the cornerstones and then try to figure out how to do the stone walls and roof. Well, that completes this small update. Maybe I'll be able to get more done later, but I'm thinking it might be another month! Regardless, enjoy the tour and thanks for looking in!
  11. 1 point
    Also, Chattanooga has a version they use. You might wait until after the Nationals to contact them, they'll be a tad busy until then. (I'm speaking from experience here...) http://www.chattanoogascalemodelers.com/chattanooga-model-show/ For the awards themselves, contact Mission Awards. Their product is excellent, and they are affordable--we ordered 100 each Gold, Silver, and Bronze medals, and paid a little less than $3 per medal in 2018. That gave us enough for two shows (we still run a traditional IPMS 1-2-3 format contest). We designed a simple medal with the club logo, and it can be used from eyar to year as it is generic. They cost a whole lot less than engraved or sublimated plaques or traditional trophies, and a whole heap less than Lucite spears. https://www.missionawards.com/ Cheers! Ralph
  12. 1 point
    My latest build: Godzilla from Mad Lab Models sculpted by the late Mike Parks. Hand finished in acrylics, artist inks and pigment powders. The goo on his foot is 5-minute epoxy painted in Tamiya clear red. Thanks for looking!
  13. 1 point
    As I posted some time ago, the camera setup in the Kitty Hawk Banshee kit doesn't resemble any aerial camera I ever saw. The mounting rack is a tubular affair with 3 vertical positions & several oblique positions. Attempting to scale it down to 48th scale is beyond my abilities & the tubing is thin enough I suspect it would be almost impossible to replicate. So, since the rack isn't visible once the access panels are closed, I figured it wouldn't make that much difference. Photo #1 is the original setup built as supplied in the kit. Photos #2 & 3 are my solution This is a fairly typical setup for a mapping mission. The cameras are from a CMK resin kit designed for the Tanmodel RF-84 but, they're the right scale and very similar to the cameras the Banshee would have carried. All that's required now is some paint & permanently mounting the cameras.
  14. 1 point
    Beautiful work so far. Keep it going man, it's great following another masterful build from you.
  15. 1 point
    How hilarious! What a scream! Fantastic job man, and thanks for posting this.
  16. 1 point
    Trevor Harm! I'm so thrilled to see you here. It's been awhile since we conversed on the old LEM; I'm also so glad you are still in the Hobby. Good luck on your venture and I hope to see you around more.
  17. 1 point
    Decals on and have started the weathering.
  18. 1 point
    Just finished my latest piece. This is a vinyl kit of the 1972 Gigan suit from "Godzilla On Monster Island" a.k.a. "Godzilla Vs Gigan". Kit stands about 12" tall and was finished using acrylics and artist inks. Base was scratch built. Thanks for looking!
  19. 1 point
    Finished the Saturn Knight. Additional images can be found here: MK44 SaturnKnight And I got the family together for the weekend.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Here's a tiny resin kit from TD Cast. This was a 2015 Wonder Festival exclusive. Included a couple w.I.p. pics this time around. Once again hand finished in acrylics and artist inks with a scratch built base. Thanks for looking!
  22. 1 point
    I love the colors and the slit eyes but am I missing something? Shouldn't there be a string for that bow?
  23. 1 point
    Tedious painting on the Ki-45 camouflage continues. I tried masking the pattern and realized it was actually easier to just hand paint the jungle camouflage. The base coat is Japanese Army light green and the camouflage is Japanese Army dark green. In the end I really like the look of this camouflage. I then painted the wing leading edges yellow and the white fuselage stripe just forward of the tail. For the wing landing light I painted the light bezel chrome silver and filled it up with acrylic gel to simulate the lens. See all the details and photos in the blog build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ki-45-toryu-nick/ At this point I move the model to another table and upgraded the work bench area by adding work table to organize the work surface. Check out the updated photos of the working area on my blog at https://davidsscalemodels.com/gallery/the-studio/ The new workspace
  24. 1 point
    From the UK perspective LV would be great as a tourist with Nellis near by and a direct flight from London but i can see the vendor room taking a big hit like it did in Florida with so many other things to spend money on.. Omaha however has a good record every time they do the show and i really enjoyed going downtown and would love to go back. Hopefully we will get a two year announcement? But every year I do wonder as trader if it is time to address the length of the show, nowhere else does a show for so long with its high room costs to add to your travel. At Telford we do a show that has twice as many traders and two to three times as many customers through the doors on a Saturday and Sunday and our take can be as much as four time higher than we manage at the US Nationals. Now I know the scale of the US is slightly different but surely it is easier for people to attend a short show rather than have to take four to six days off work in the middle of summer? Every year we find it harder to justify coming over the pond and we need just one poor show now for us to have to seriously consider if we can afford to carry on which is a shame as this year will be our 22nd US Nationals. Ans i would like to thank all the chapters and who have made me so welcome over the last 6 years I have travelled across the pond representing SAM Publications. D Francis Editor SAMi
  25. 1 point
    Hey GIl - Thanks very much for your support - yeah - I think if I heat them a bit they might return to shape. But the halves will still be ratty looking....a lot of filler and supporting tabs under the joins will be needed. Frankly, I am so discouraged I probably will just build the stock kit. Couldn't believe the owner of Greymatter, what a pill. He actually emailed me repeatedly bragging that he was continuing to sell the parts, despite the negative ebay feedback.
  26. 1 point
    Glad you're here! Make yourself at home and post some of your work. Cheers! GIL
  27. 1 point
    You have made some good points Gil. Our geographical dispositions dictate to a greater extent the show format. Telford has developed over many years to what it is today. For many years the UK Nats as they were then ran for over 25 years in a very similar fashion to your own annual event. The competition still remains the core of the show as does yours. It is just that our show has developed slowly into today's format and the US has retained the format that works best for IPMS USA. Telford, because of how it developed naturally gives more opportunity to show models out of the competition, whereas the US Nats may be a bit more constricted for display space. Regarding winning or losing, a bit of philosophy. Your model will be no better or worse when you take it off the competition table to when you placed it on the table!
  28. 1 point
    Another great start for a true masterpiece. Regards Christopher
  29. 1 point
    Ralph's comment to a certain extent may be passionate about how he feels. But has competition got to be the be all and end all for IPMS? Telford is an example of how competition and exhibition can go hand in hand without people feeling that they have to compete. Many Modellers are not bothered one jot about competition, yet the models they enjoy just exhibiting would do well in competition! There is room for both within IPMS. We have to ask ourselves if we are a modelling society promoting the hobby or a modelling competition society? Everyone was a novice to start with, and we should be reaching out to those people as well as more established hobbyists. I fear that IPMS is in danger of taking itself a bit too seriously at times.
  30. 1 point
    I recently scored a kit with an MSRP of $169.99 for under $15 delivered. Guys from my model club in Louisville posted about some deep discounts on Dragon kits at Dragon USA. While the kit they were discussing was a 1/6th scale Panzer II normally $350 for $16 and discounted to $10 after using their Father's Day code, I searched other mistakenly discounted kits. I found the Dragon Iron Man Age of Ultron Mark XLIII kit listed for $10 and change; $7.18 after the 35% off discount code. With shipping, a whopping $14.82 delivered. Others tried to order the giant tank and one guy tried to order Iron Man, but their orders were cancelled. By the time they posted their orders were cancelled, I got a shipping notice. It arrived a two days later. By the time it arrived, the price had risen to $101.99. http://www.dragonusaonline.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=DRA38155
  31. 1 point
    Here are the final photos of my conversion of a Monogram F-105D kit into the prototype YF-105A, and here is the Build Thread And for a little comparison, the original Monogram F-105D alongside: If you check out the build thread, you will see that it was a long ride... Ed
  32. 1 point
    King Brian is a character from the 1959 Disney movie Darby O'Gill and the Little People. From IMDB.com : The kit was sculpted Joe Laudati and came in 4 parts - His head, body, cape and base. While the figure is cast in resin, the base was cast in plaster. My guess is to give the base some weight, and the figure is dancing, and all the weight is on one foot. Looking at King Brian's costume, the main colors are 3 different shades of green, and then an orange tan for the vest. The shoes looked black, but I thought a very dark brown worked as well. The coins (and crown) were painted gloss black in prep for painting them with Vallejo Metallics Gold. The face was next, and it was impossible for me to find out the actors eye color, so I just defaulted for brown. Most all the colors were painted and when I went to glue on the cape, there was some filling needed. So I broke out the Aves and blended it in. To attach Brian to the base I added a rod thru his heel into the base. To save some weight the cater made part of the base hollow. No worries - the rod will still hold. Thanks Joe for autographing this. For safety, I added a rare earth magnet to his sole and the base. A few tries and it worked fine... until I added the cape. With the cape in place, the balance was lost and wanted to tip over backward. I figured I needed another rod, and to play it safe I thought that I should fill the void in the base with resin, and then add that rod. Check back for the conclusion. Thanks for looking.
  33. 1 point
    I have to say that this movie is in my top ten of favs. The roll of Harry was played by Kevin Peter Hall, a 6'9" actor whose other character of note was The Predator. Our kit comes in 2 pieces- the bust and the base. Molded and casted by Gillman Productions, there is only the smallest of evidence of a seamline across the back of Harry's head. There were no obvious bubbles anywhere on the kit. On the bottom of the base, sculptor Mark Van Tine was kind enough to give me an autograph, along with a little illustration. 🙂 The only negative on the kit was the build in rod to hold the bust to the base somehow got curved backward. So it couldn't just sit without falling over backward. No big deal a brass tube/rod or wooden dowel easily solves the problem. I primed the bust in the tan Stynylrez primer, and then set out to paint the figure. While Harry shows a lot of gray hair, I started off, as usual, with a dark brown. In the pic you can also see I started the lighter first highlight. The teeth was painted with Army Painters Skeleton Bone. This is close to both V's Dark Sand, and Iraqi Sand - it falls in between actually so if one is too dark and the other too light I have my remedy. While that was drying I turned my attention to the base. I knew I wanted to paint the name with the multi color look and I found an example where they used just red and yellow. But first I painted the rock V Gray Black. Sculpted in the flat part there are some leaves, a fern and some twigs. Here you see the leaves and the fern painted. Turning back to Harry, I finished off the first highlight, and then turned to the eyes. All evidence said Harry's eyes were blue, so I started with an Azure circle for the irises. The lines of light and dark blue, and finally a black pupil completed the eyes. I also washed the mouth in Citadel's Reikland Fleshshade, and then highlighted in Ivory. In all the pics, Harry has quite the bright smile. This session, the most obvious change is all the gray hair Harry has. It was actually a surprise how much there was in the mustache area. Next I added a little more dimension to the exposed skin. IIRC I remember added two more levels of highlight. Then final step was attaching it to the base. Rather than go out and look for a brass/plastic rod, I filled the hole in the bottom of Harry with Aves, and then when dry drilled out both Harry and the base. The rod I had was superglued, and held in place until dry. Finally he was finished. Thanks for looking.
  34. 1 point
    She's from the Reaper Miniatures Mousling series. Thanks for letting me share!
  35. 1 point
    I recently completed the Sword 1/72nd scale kit of the Northrop N-9M Flying Wing. The aircraft (later, slightly different version N-9MB) has been in the news lately, since the restored prototype, owned by Planes of Fame, suffered a horrific crash, killing her pilot. Description of my model project can be found on my own Web site: https://www.somanyaircraft.com/models/projects/2019/n9m/
  36. 1 point
    This mini has been in my pile so long, I don't remember where it came from, or even why I bought this. Hmm... :? He comes in two parts the dragon and the egg. I scratch built the base and rocks with foam, and extra long static grass for the nest. Thanks for looking.
  37. 1 point
    In an effort to collect Medusa kits whenever possible, I came across this kit at a not so recent JerseyFest (or was it the old Resintopia?). The kit came fro the Morland Studios. The kit comes in 6 parts plus a 60mm round base and the figure is scaled to 32mm. Following the card, I tried to copy the image. The small size of kit was a real trial to my limited abilities. The sculpted base comes in 2 parts, and they are made to attach together, but sitting on the round base, there was extra room. I decided to fill the black base. In the pic you can see gray Aves to fill the basesplitting the difference between rocks and sea. I also used V's Plastic putty to fill the seam between the monster/sea and the rocks. I made the tip of the snout of the monster shades of gray as if it was turning to rock, again a la the Clash of the Titans remake. Don't know how well that comes across being so little of the monster is seen. From there, I concentrated on the TINY details for the figure. There was no decal for the shield, so I tried my best, thinking of the Clash of the Titans remake, and painted on a scorpion. Finally adding some gloss to the scene, and gluing Perseus in place, I was finished. Thanks for looking. Size comparison to a Quarter
  38. 1 point
    This is an approx 1/3rd scale kit I obtained from Mark Warthling. It comes in 9 parts - the head/body, the stone arm, 2 sets of horns (long and short - I chose the short), a base and two name plates. The arm, base and one of the name plates are in translucent resin in case you want to light the kit. Once again it was a case of me jumping into things before taking the start image, but you'll see the clear resin along the way. I started with a tan primer, glued the horns in and then painted the face red. Reddened the face, and painted the hair black - When it came to the arm, I looked around and it was no where to be found. I contacted Mark, and for a little fee he was able to get me another. How can something that big go missing? I have no idea... Here you can see the translucent hand. Anyway, in the background you may be able to see I added a darker brown shadow to parts of the jacket. What I did to highlight the black hair was to use a little blue in it. All shirt references showed it was black, so I mixed a little blue into that to compliment the hair. You can also see the translucent base and the arm with primer. I also painted the zipper steel, and the little emblem on the pull the new Molotow Chrome. That stuff is amazing. Next was tackling the Dark brown leather collar and straps. You can see in the background the arm got it's coat of red - While I thought of it, I painted in the eyes. Hellboy had yellow sclera, with a light brown iris, and then the black pupil. With the squint the model has I just left of the sclera color... I fixed up the coloring on his head and now I'm happy with it. Hellboy is now complete. I didn't mention the base, but being translucent it calls out to be lit. Never having done lighting, I left it open for lights down the road. What I did tho, was dremel out more material in the symbols, and then seeing a miniatures trick I got some matte Mod Podge and mixed it with black craft paint until it was *dark*, then I painted thickly on (avoiding the symbols) the base. Does well with light blocking. It was crazy how many images I went thru before I found an definite image of the emblem on his sleeve. Only found one. Thanks for looking.
  39. 1 point
    Here's a couple shot of my Billiken MechaGodzilla 2 kit. This is a vinyl kit that includes white metal parts for the "fingers". Once again hand finished in acrylics and Tamiya Weathering System palettes. Thanks for looking!
  40. 1 point
    Here's another recent bust just off the work table. verybody's favorite painter, Bob Ross. He's approx. 1/4 scale and done up with Vallejo paints. Over on the Resin Maniac's page on FB, they are having a Bob - Off. Anyne who bought one is urged to paint it up for the show. On tv Bob used a clear palette that was scuffed up to prevent glare from the TV lights. I saw a few guy's WIP and they all used gray for the palette, so I naturally had to go completely the other way and got to practice my wood grain at the same time. Thanks for looking.
  41. 1 point
    In the mood for another bust, I had Daenerys Targareon (sp?) sitting on the shelf for some time. Produced in white resin, she came in two parts - the bust/base, and a strand of hair. Cleanup was minimal, and any seam marks hidden was easily spotted and eliminated after a spray of primer. I started out with a base coat of Rose Beige for her skin - Her hair is almost white, so I base coated that with a coat of Beige to start. A highlight of Rose Beige + Light Skin tone. Thinking I found the costume that was sculpted, it looked like a blue, and the cape was blue on the outside and I light tan on the inside. Moving on I highlighted the hair with Ivory, added the dark brown eye brows, painted the eyeballs the same color and then painted the base a Basalt Gray. Her lips got a coat of Cavalry Brown, which is really a dark red brown color. I also speckled the base with a lighter gray for interest, and used V's Burnt Iron Metallics for the emblem. The inside of the cape got a beige highlight. I didn't want her cape and dress to be the same color, so I painted over the blue with a turquoise color from Army Painter. On the screen grab, there is a design that looks like lots of little arrowheads. The sculpt doesn't have that, but only ridged stripes. I added another layer of turquoise to them, and then over painted the stripes with a Pearlescent paint to create a little added dimension. Also her green eyes were painted in. You can't really tell but the strand of hair was also added. There was a gap, but some Aves filled the gap with nor problems. I sculpted the Aves to match the existing hair. I added a 3rd highlight of white to the top most part of the hair stands, and after looking it up, painted the dragon on the emblem a red color. Her bottom lip was painted Rose to brighten it. Then I tried something new, I used Vs Metallic Varnish to the lips and eyes. It went on a little thicker than the others and made the eyes look deeper. She was ready for her final matte coat. After a day, I looked at the bust and there was something wrong. She looked ... sweaty. I must have sprayed her with satin instead of matte. There was also something else with the skin tone. It was still too dark. I mixed Light skin tone with Ivory and gave a highlight to only the upper areas. That looked better. Then I made sure I sprayed a matte coat to seal it all in. Thanks for looking.
  42. 1 point
    This one came from DcDevitt Studios exclusively for member of his Patreon page who opted for a certain level. Troy does some outstanding work. Anyway here he is. First is the raw resin. Thanks for looking.
  43. 1 point
    Nuts planet bust. mostly done in enamels. Dak
  44. 1 point
    1/35th Stalingrad beach girl series. The accessories are mostly from Meng. All painted with enamels. Dak
  45. 1 point
    Seems I'm a broken record in this area with my Airfix locomotives. I get one a year and do them. Nice kits of interesting subjects and they are something different to build. This one is of a Battle of Britain Class locomotive used in the 50's and 60's. Each engine was named after a fighter base, or ace or something linked to the Battle of Britain. This one is the Biggin Hill, a fighter base around London. One quirk is that the name plate on the engine side should have an RAF blue background and not red. Other releases of the same kit have the blue, but I got 'lucky' and go the wrong color. The decals were old and yellow, so they spent sometime in a sunny window and then a coat of gloss coat to keep them from shattering.
  46. 1 point
    This model has been sitting on my desk for a while now about 99% done. Lets have a look. The first thing that's noticed is the base that's on the website is quite a bit different than what you get. I don't know (and didn't think to ask) if it was a mistake on Aradia's part or what. Anyway Posideon just sits on this little ledge of coral. No matter I can model a base. The parts are shown below. On the website you had a choice of either a human type face or a sort of fish mask (arrow). I liked the mask, but in person IMO I felt it made him look like he had a tiny head. This is the problem for me when a model sits. You think you've taken pics that you didn't. But basically the skin was done in a Flesh, and washed with Citadels Reikland Fleshshade. Then the fish part was done in a blue, highlighted with a turquoise with some pearlizing craft paint for the wet look sparkle. The base is simply Sculpt -a-Mould over some foam "boulders. Spray with a tan and then the same turquoise with the pearl. Finally I wanted some sort of backdrop for him. I went looking for some pieces of fan coral at the pet stores. But no good. I guess real coral decorations are taboo now. I found some artificial stuff that looked good in the pics and real life from a distance. But it's kind of cheesy look close up. I sprayed that with white primer and then some blue mixed with the pearl. Done. Thanks for looking.
  47. 1 point
    This is one of the Soda Pop Miniatures, Maid Service, part of the Takoashi University game series. Thanks!
  48. 1 point
    Latest finished piece.
  49. 1 point
    The major step this session was painting in the eyes. A web check of the eye color of Kevin Peter Hall turned up nothing. Most of the images show him with green eyes so that's where I went. When dry, onto the tree he went. Merry Christmas and thanks for looking everyone.
  50. 1 point
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