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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    The new 1/72 Airfix Gladiator is a real sweetheart of a kit. No flash and any mold seams are slight and easily dealt with. Fit is as with all new Airfix kits, precise to the point that you need to be very careful during clean up not to remove too much anywhere before checking. I did mine OOTB with the exception of using the S.B.S. rigging wire set. (#72046). It gives you a complete set of rigging all pre-made to the correct lengths. You do, however, need to pre-drill holes to receive the wires, so advanced planning is necessary. As they are made in a silver metal, I painted mine a darker metallic color before cutting them from the fret. Almost all the wires fit spot on, but a few needed a slight bit of tweaking, probably due more to my assembly technique than any error on their part. The only thing missing is the antennae. It would have been nice to get that as well, but it's either easily made or can be omitted entirely from some versions on the a/c. I did mine in the camo of the Swedish volunteer unit that flew for the Finns during their war with Russia. (P.S. Notice how I forgot to remove one of the pieces of masking from the left rear of the canopy. What a twit. Problem has since been solved.)
  2. 3 points
    Greetings All I did not want to highjack the Hasagawa Harrier Thread ,so here is my finished VMA 211 Wake Island Avenger. I had to install the gun pods as a Marine Aircraft without weapons seemed "Unnatural". This is probably my final aircraft for this collection. I have 7 Aircraft from the Wildcat thru the F-35 in collection. This is the Hasagawa kit with Super Scale decals,Resin Seat,Resin Exhaust vents, and Flying Leatherneck Det.- Cord. Two tone gray scheme with true Marine Tail.I used Gunze paints for colors and GX 100 clear for decal base and Mr Hobby Matt for final finish Last addition was the Resin FOD covers. The Hasegawa intake has too many issue to be left open and I like a little more colors these add to the aircraft. Thanks for Looking Comments Welcome Regards Bill
  3. 2 points
    Just about a year ago we as a society gathered in Chattanooga TN. The world has turned upside down since then. With all the modeling shows being cancelled. I would like to suggest that we take a look back and share some stories and pictures. It would be a great feeling to remember the fun and models. Looking forward till we meet again. RONBO. Head Bottle Washer.
  4. 2 points
    Wayne taught me and many of the other Judges of my vintage how to judge. He always displayed tact and charm and a civilized, cultured demeanor. However, like the good soldier and leader that he was, he demanded excellence in modeling and judging. He inspired us to be discerning and scrupulous in examining every aspect of the model when judging. I recall some of his noteworthy and characteristically pithy aphorisms: “A hole ( cockpit, landing gear bay, bomb bay) is to look in.” “ The modeler finished before he was done.” Even more importantly, he demanded absolute integrity from his Judges. We all sought to be as wise and Solomon-like as Wayne. He was a courageous patriot and pilot. His courtly manner exemplified “an officer and a gentleman. “ His was a life well led. I consider myself fortunate to have been his student. I will always recall him with respect and fondness. Respectfully, Nick Filippone
  5. 2 points
    Wayne was not only the head aircraft judge, he was the Chief Judge of the National Contest for years. He basically created the system we have now. I learned how to judge while he was in charge. He was a great leader and a good man. Thank you, Wayne, for all you did.
  6. 1 point
    I pulled this one out of the stash as it looked like a quick build. Yikes was I wrong. Tho the kit looked good while on the sprue - no flash, delicate panel lines etc... It had one big flaw. Being a jet you see a rounded intake and exhaust. But the top of the plane is nearly flat. So all the rounded supports on top need to be cut away. I didn't want to just cut it all away, so it became cut a bit, try a fit, cut some more, try a fit... Ugh. I got the front and rear all set but it still wouldn't close up. Then I discovered that with the engine running straight thru the plane and the cockpit off set, the kit puts the cockpit and wheel well one over the other. This means I need to break out the dremel again and carve down both components. Tho it didn't need it, I added some of those Liquid Gravity beads. Finally it was time to combine halves and get some paint on. Since no prototype existed, they offered two variations of '46 German colors, a US capture scheme as well as a soviet scheme. I chose one of the German ones. Adding a few other details, like the wheels, I was done. Thanks for looking.
  7. 1 point
    I will limit my model photos and try to go with the Social aspect Pittsburgh Guys "SMOKIN" Great little Italian Restaurant a couple of blocks form convention. Canadians, Pittsburghers, Michigan guys..Fantastic time. One of my Favorite Characters Even the Theme had you smiling Love the creative nature of the modeling mind And the display of unbielievable Talents A bit of work is required,(Not like working in a coal mine work) And Just keep Smiling Cheers Bill D. Pittsburgh,PA
  8. 1 point
    I'm sure that you've all heard the phrase "my eyes are bigger than my stomach"? Meaning don't bite off more than you can chew. I've always been intrigued by dioramas. The stories that they tell can be awesome. I've always felt that the best aspect of a good diorama is one that each new time that you look at it you find some new hidden detail that you missed the previous time. I finally decided, a few years back, that I was going to build my first diorama. Being a car guy it almost made sense that I would do a garage with vehicles, tools, supplies, etc. I also like nature so I wanted to incorporate some added outdoors scene as well. So, one thing led to another and the next thing you know my design is way out of control and taking up a tremendous amount of space. It was fun but finding somewhere to store it/display it when it was done was no easy task. I also only took this to one contest after it was done because of the size and weight. Here it is. I framed the garage completely out of wood. Removable roof, real shingles, opening garage door and as much detail as I could throw at it without it becoming too busy. It was great learning experience that mainly taught me that if I ever did any more dioramas, (which I have) to keep the size in check.
  9. 1 point
    For my next build I will be building the Roden 1/48 OV-1C Mohawk. I will be detailing it with Eduard photo etch for the cockpit, exterior, and undercarriage as well as Quick Boost resin accessories like the exhaust, accurate propellers, and accurate scoops. This is one of the unique aircraft that you rarely see them built in scale models. Roden makes three versions in 1/48 the A, the C, and the D. I chose the C as it was the more widely used version during the Viet Nam war. The Mohawk's mission includes observation, artillery spotting, air control, emergency resupply, naval target spotting, liaison, and radiological monitoring. Built by Grumman in 1959, it was used for monitoring the DMZ in Korea then used during the Viet Nam war. It remained operational even during Desert Storm and until it was retired in 1996. Starting with the cockpit, I built up and detailed the seats with over 20 pieces of photo etch. The cockpit tub was then assembled and detailed and finally the instrument panel was detailed. The nose gear bay has photo etch details except where the wheel sits so I dug through my extra photo etch bin and located a panel that resembled the reference photo and installed it. I need to do a little more work on the nose gear and bay and look for areas to add some weight so it sits on the gear correctly once built. You can more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ov-1c-mohawk/
  10. 1 point
    The build continues on the OV-1C Mohawk. The first thing I did was to detail the nose gear bay with more photo etch so I could install the cockpit/nose gear assembly into the fuselage. Once done, I was able to assemble the fuselage together. The instructions call out to add 19 grams of weight to the nose so the model will sit on the gear rather than its tail. I actually added about 22 grams. Only 15 grams fit in the nose so I added the rest on the sides of the nose gear bay between the bay and fuselage wall. I then began work on the wings. The first step was to cut out the entire main gear bays as these were completely replaced with photo etch parts. The bays were then primed with white primer. The main struts were then detailed with photo etch details. The engine exhaust area was detailed with photo etch and the kit exhaust was replaced with the upgraded resin version. The resin version is a seamless casting and shaped a little better than the kit version. The exhaust was painted then weathered with pastel chalk. The wing halves were then put together and finally the main gear was installed onto the wings. Next up is the tails and fuselage detailing. You can see all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ov-1c-mohawk/
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I think one thing that's probably affecting the room reservations is the idea of WIVES and families going to the Vegas show, which in turn means a person such as myself will not be splitting a room with another attendee. Thus, two people who normally buddy up and use one room need two rooms, and so on, depending on the number of buddies being "split" for Vegas! Gil
  13. 1 point
    Now just put a couple drops of cinnamon essential oil down it's gullet. 🙂
  14. 1 point
    There’s gonna be a lot of models to judge! Nick
  15. 1 point
    Nick, even if that's the case, Vegas looks to be a big show! Maybe the biggest West Coast show ever. Way to go, Vegas!! And those of us who haven't booked yet (myself included) need not worry; Vega has just about the most hotel rooms of any city... there will be plenty of rooms, even if we have to drive a mile or so.
  16. 1 point
    Could it also be that some members, especially from different parts of the country, who might share a room under ordinary circumstances, might be social distancing by rooming alone? This would increase the rooms per registrant count. Who would dare to predict what the recommendations and requirements related to the pandemic will be even 13 months from now? I know I sound like a Cassandra and no one will be happier than I will be to be seen as having taken an unnecessary precaution, but unpredictability seems to be the only consistently predictable feature of Covid 19. One thing I am confident of is that we all want this National - and all the future Nationals- to go off without a hitch. Let’s all try to do whatever we can to control this pandemic, however inconvenient, in hopes of us all getting together again in Las Vegas! Nick Filippone
  17. 1 point
    Bob, glad to see the response was just about what I thought it might be. A lot of people very disappointed that San Marcos was canceled, so my guess is there is going to be some pent-up demand for this one. Also, the first time since Disney world in Florida that there was a reason for family members(spouse) to join the modeler. It is going to be a great show. I just hope you guys in Vegas don't get overwhelmed. This is going to be huge!
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for the info, Gil. I also have spent a lot of time at the museum in Dayton & have plenty of photos of the RF-86. I found the kit on ebay from a seller in Japan but, he wants $98.00 for it. Guess I'll keep it on the back burner for awhile.
  19. 1 point
    Room reservations can be made now! Visit www.natslv2021.com
  20. 1 point
    Very easy reservation process. Well done!
  21. 1 point
    Well, it's been a slow week so there's only a small update this time. I did manage to get the photo etch on the Redstone capsule; these panels make it into the Friendship 7: Later I shot that black, even though it doesn't show well in this pic: Sorry about the blurriness in that pic; the camera had a difficult time focusing on that capsule. Now for a gloss coat and then decals. Moving on, I stopped working on the rocket to get going on the tank transporters I've had languishing while I worked on the Abrams and Paladin. First off, I added more details to the HEMMTT tank transporter chassis. This was starting to take shape: After that, I built the engine and added it to the chassis, along with the exhaust and other platform framework: Once I got done with that, I assembled the cab for this truck. In the process of holding it together, I got some glue under my finger and smeared it all over the windscreen: Yeah, that looked really bad. So I disassembled the cab, removed the windscreen and went to work trying to fix it. After some persistent and constant sanding and polishing with ever higher grit levels (from 600 to 12000) I dipped it in Future to try and clear it even more. The final result isn't as great as I had hoped, but there's at least no sign of glue smear: Time to move on with that. Before I put it aside for the day, I dry-fit everything together that I had done: Moving on from there, I finally assembled the cab for the M-1070 tractor: After that, I wanted to build up the chassis and suspension to mount that cab on, so I built the first two axle sub-assemblies 'A' and 'B': Then I got called away so I put them both aside before I left. A couple days later, I return to start on this again and sub-assembly 'B' is gone! I tore the room apart for hours looking for it and finally gave up. I assembled the last two axle sub-assemblies 'C' and 'D' and cemented all three to the chassis frame. So now this will be the "light" version of this truck until I either find that sub-assembly or buy a whole new kit to replace it: Later I cut off the fenders to add to the chassis. One of them flat out broke when I tried cutting it off: It's like that hole on the left half was inside waiting for the any pressure to be applied so it could break! I glued it back together and added it to the chassis: Later I added Mr. Surfacer 500 to that crack, but not before this pic was taken. Here is the whole chassis with most of the extra parts added to it: Later I dry fit the cab to this to see how it would fit: It's gonna take some finagling, but it'll fit well. After that I can build the winch platform. Until then, I moved on and started the new Japanese Type 73 tank transporter. First was the chassis and engine which went together very fast and easy: There's still more detail parts to add to that,, but not before I get the cab mounted on it. So, I started the cab; building the interior first: Naturally I get everything done on this except the steering wheel. When I tried cutting that from the sprue, it tumbled down to the floor and disappeared. After another hour of frustrating search; I finally decided that it would not be noticeable enough once the cab was closed so to hell with it; I'm moving on! Life is too short and I have too many models to build to screw around with extra tiny pieces that refuse to stay on the table. I then added the windows to the cab and popped the interior in to see if my premise was correct. It certainly does not show unless someone really looks hard: Onward we go from here to start assembly on the trailer: After that I was ready to get back to tanks. Since the Missing Lynx was running the Churchill Group Build, I pulled out two Churchills from Dragon to get started on. First was the Churchill III AVRE, starting with the turret: That petard mortar was a real pain to build, but I got it done. Then I added the five parts to the upper hull that are supposed to go on it and then added the turret for the pic: After that, I built the lower hull and roadwheels: Here's a test fit after all that was done: There's still a bit more to do on that, not least of which is to add the tracks. Until then, I started the Churchill IV AVRE; building the turret: By that time it was late so I stopped until I have more time to build later. Until then, thanks for looking in, comments are welcome.
  22. 1 point
    Always on the lookout for the obscure, odd or prototype planes, I found this little gem on the pages of SAMI where the kit was being reviewed. Having gotten these models few times this way, a quick trip to eBay, and I had a choice of a number of these kits. The Sam-13 (Cam-13) was designed in pre-war Russia, and based around Renault 6 cylinder engines. One prototype was built. But this was destroyed as the Soviets fell back against the German invasion of the eastern front. The design was never revisited. It came with 2 sprues of gray plastic, one (mostly) clear canopy, a fret of PE, and a small sheet of decals. There was a few oops' along the way but all in all it was a fun kit. The instructions are the typical exploded views, where the exact location of some parts are hard to determine. The other issue with the kits was that the plastic was pretty fragile. I broke the back off the seat off twice, by apparently leaning on it too heavily. There were no locator pins so the parts wanted to wander until the glue set up. It wasn't mentioned but with that rear boom, I didn't want to take any chances, and added Liquid Gravity to keep it from being a tail sitter. The horizontal tail fin was a tight fit, and I should have done something about it. While it was drying, it popped out a little on one side and the glue dried that way. 😞 Lesson learned. Also after folding a piece of semi-large PE it jumped, hit the ground and was eaten. I actually laid on the floor looking for it to no avail. 😞 With no specific color call outs I used what I had. The gray was Vs Sky Gray and the blue was RLM 24. I did blacken the panel lines a bit with Vs NATO Black. The real plane was wooden so I left it with a matte clear coat. Sitting the canopy on the plane, I was amazed to see that the canopy was a perfect fit - until it came time to glue it on the the fuselage. What happened? 😞 After adding the landing gear I called it done. Thanks for looking.
  23. 1 point
    Well, the last time that I built a F-105G, I was in the 6th grade. Man, she’s a BIG one. A good friend of mine in our club gave this to me to build. It came in a box the size of a small suitcase. The assembly on this one is relatively straightforward. I’ve purchased an Aires cockpit, with all the Fixin’s. Chris
  24. 1 point
    Bob, Well done, well said. Looking forward to making a reservation on Wednesday.
  25. 1 point
    It wasn’t my fault! Gil made me do it! 🙀 LOL! Nick
  26. 1 point
    Yup, they snuck in. No link to hotel anymore. Guess I gotta wait 'til the 15th with all the rest.
  27. 1 point
    I also just made my reservation. Very easy. Gil, thank you for the heads-up! Regards, Nick
  28. 1 point
    Ron and Gil have both spoken monumental truth! I live in Florida too and opted for a CO2 tank. One of the best modelling moves I've ever made.
  29. 1 point
    I live in FLA and build in my garage year-round. Humidity is a problem 75% of the year. I've used water traps...but they're only partially successful in high humidity environments. The REAL solution is to switch to a tank of CO2. A 3ft high tank will allow you to paint 10-15 1/48 single engine prop models over a year, including the CO2 used to clean the brush. It's silent, eliminates any worries about moisture in your system, and you can exactly set the pressure to your airbrush. The down side? You CAN run out! But, there's plenty of warning as to when you're getting low, so if you run out, you've just been ignoring the signs to trade it in on a full tank for too long! Gil
  30. 1 point
    Awesome work! That looks magnificent!
  31. 1 point
    Hey all. Here are a few of my recently completed builds. The Revell 1/48 F-102, Bandi X-wing, two carrier tractors and two Hasegawa Egg Planes (F/A-18C and MV-22 Osprey).
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    I am not sure if you can see the guts I put into the sensor turret. I cut some sprues and hollowed them and then cut some clear sprues and made lenses.
  34. 1 point
    Over the years, I've pretty much stayed away from figures all together, because of painting flesh. An arm or a hand exposed was ok, as long as the face was FULLY covered. About two years ago, I started incorporating figures in my dioramas. A friend of mine, in our local club, does mostly figures, painted strictly with artist oils. His results are amazing. He's given me quite a bit of info on how he does his. His main advice was to check on YouTube for tutorials. I decided to get my "feet wet", starting with acrylics (some enamels for the eyes). The bust was painted with a mixture of Vallejo, and AK Flesh and Skin Colors. The leather jacket was a custom mix of two different Tamiya browns. I would usually apply a wash to his jacket for depth. I instead decided to drybrush just the high areas. I used Testors Model Master bright brown first. After it dried, the high areas looked more bronze than anything. I toned it down Naples Yellow Hue (artist oils). The cord and emblems on his hat were painted with Tamiya flat aluminum. I applied a dark wash on these items after they dried. The yellow bead around his hat is Testors yellow. The brim of his hat was painted with Tamiya gloss black. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Chris
  35. 1 point
    Amazingly enough, I was only able to finish three models during this whole stay-at-home order during the past few months. I am finally able to get these posted. One is armor and will be posted there, but since it also came in the same box as one of these aircraft, I'm showing it here with that aircraft. I'll start with my Hasegawa Israeli F-16I Sufa in 1/72 scale: Next is the ancient Italeri German Go-244 Gotha transport aircraft in 1/72 scale: You can see the rear opens and closes. This is why: it comes with this little Kubelwagen kit as a load: More detailed shots of the Kubel will be in the armor section. Meanwhile, thanks for looking in here, comments are welcome.
  36. 1 point
    This is one of the Reaper miniatures, Joy the Ice Fairie. I primed with Tamiya Fine White, bock painted with MSP Color and Vallejo and shaded with oils. A fun figure to paint.
  37. 1 point
    Here is the last of three works I've started over the years, and finally got around to painting. The mounted figure I did about ten years ago and started working on the setting figure sometime later. Both figures are made out of recycled plastics. Most of the mounted figure is from an old HP printer case. There is a howto in this forum and I'll leave a link if anyone is interested.
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