Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/16/2024 in Posts

  1. This is the Revell re-release of the Matchbox Humber Mk II armoured car. It's a neat little kit and has one of their display bases included. I opened the vision slits on the hull sides, added the lifting rings front and rear, removed the molded in tools and tow cable and replaced them from the spares box and drilled out the guns and smoke dischargers. The base is another story. I covered the grassy area with Woodland Scenics products. Then I covered the shell hole with real dirt and filled the puddle in the middle with Klear wax. The last photo is the inspiration for the whole project, a book I recently read.
    3 points
  2. With the news of a new 1/48 B-26 Marauder on the horizon (now just released), I decided I'd build my old Monogram kit that had been languishing in my stash for many years. It's mostly OTB, except for some resin replacement engine cowlings I had in the box' as well as adding some MV lenses for the wing lights and IFF lights, adding clear colored plastic wing tip lights, and substituting some spare resin gun barrels for the kit ones. I also had an Eduard masking set which came in quite handy. The interior is OOTB. The big silver thingy is a Terry Dean nose weight I bought years ago, designed specifically for the kit. The entire model was rescribed using a razor saw for the fuselage and a UMM scriber for the wings and tailplanes. The shiny patches on the kit plastic are due to brushing some Testors liquid cement in the scribe lines to clean them out after the initial sanding. The kit has a bad rep for bad fit, but the only true problem were the extensions on the wing tops for the tops of the nacelles. Both of them simply needed to be gently bent downward (it did create stress marks in the plastic) and then they fit the nacelles quite well. The rest of the seams were average to good, but with no real fit problems, including all of the clear parts. I did, however, use UV cured clear resin for all of the fuselage windows except for the radio/navigator's right side window with the bubble. Also note the wire sticking out of the nose glazing. All of the kit guns were modified with either drilled holes or wire extensions so that the all of the gun barrels could be added at the end of the project. The pink stuff is Silly Putty being used to mask the exposed main gear, which have to be added before adding the underside wing nacelles. The 1-piece replacement resin cowls can also ne seen here. Everything else about the build was straightforward. Clear packing tape was used for the wing leading edges in place of the plastic kit parts. On to the finished pics! I used Alclad Gray Primer for the underside and Model Master 34086 Dark OD for the top, with 34087 OD used for some lighter panel variations. Tamiya brown panel line wash was used and some MIG powders brushed on for additional streaking and for the exhaust staining. The chipping was done with a small sponge and also with a silver colored pencil. I added D-Day stripes because I liked their look, though the decal sheet doesn't show them. The markings for Valkyrie were from Cutting Edge. Got this one done just in time before the new kit is being built by everyone else! Questions, critiques, and comments welcome, as always. Gil
    2 points
  3. This model was built from scratch using brass and plastic stock along with Renshape and resin castings. The soft top is 2 ply tissue with white glue/water mix applied. Paint is Testors olive drab. Tires are painted with Tamiya rubber black. Information was taken from variouss sources including Tankograd publications for both tractor and trailer. Decals were computer generated and ALPS printed. Scale is 1/25.
    2 points
  4. Each to their own. Live and let live. We all have our differences of opinion, skill levels, how we want to model. Does it really matter that much whether someone wants to build straight out of the box of go the Nth degree on a model? The mainstream kit manufacturers it has to be remembered rely on sales from the out of the box modeller rather than modelling nerds to actually make a profit, survive and develop new kits. That said, they are striving to make more accurate kits as their technology develops that are affordable to most. I admit that I personally like the cut and thrust of the competition table but accept that the majority do not. The society must be all embracing to both factions to flourish it has to be said without appearing to be elitist to attract new members. Most model makers out there do not belong to any organisation no matter what genre of model they make, and do not find any reason to want to either. To most of them it is just a form of relaxation like any other hobby to take one's mind off the mundane everyday. As for myself, my personal philosophy is that I am a serious modeller who doesn't take himself too seriously !
    2 points
  5. For the sixth week of the CH-46 project I began detailing the bulkheads between the crew/cargo area and the cockpit. Starting with the cargo area bulkhead I cut open the panels to replicate the ref photos. I used some scrap photo etch pieces to create the panels. I then adding the cables for the avionics on the left side and ran the cables and hydraulic lines on the right side. Just to note the wiring for the upper LED’s will route thru the right side as well once I start hooking all the wires together. In the reference photo there is a folding jump seat by the doorway. I scratch built the seat frame, mount, and support rods out of styrene tubing and then used the 3M glass tape for the seat cloth. Finally, I made a decal for the warning sign on the left. For the cockpit bulkhead I used the 3M glass tape on the panel which was then painted with green drab and then olive drab to give it some color depth. The panels were then mounted to the floor. Next I began the work on the cockpit instrument. I sanded down the face and removed the shroud. I then needed to modify the backside by removing the supports just behind the panel so I can fit the three LED’s and drill out the holes for the gauges. I then scanned the Eduard panels for the gauges and instrument panel into my PC and made a guide for drilling the holes and also make a decal for the gauge faces. The guide for the holes was then taped to the face of the kit instrument panel and I used drills that matched the gauge sizes. With the holes drilled I covered the face of the instrument panel with a 0.001 sheet of white styrene. The photo etch instrument panel was held onto the panel face and checked to make sure the holes lined up with the panel. To keep the gauges from having bright spots due to the LED’s I mounted them facing to the rear. The rear panel I will be making being white will diffuse the light so all the gauges have the same brightness once the instrument panel is finished. I am now working on finishing the instrument panel then I will finish off the cockpit with the detailed seats, control sticks, and pedals. I then need to make the mount on the nose of the cockpit to hold the twin landing lights that shine thru the nose. You can see more photos and details of this build from the start in the build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ch-46a-d-helicopter/
    2 points
  6. The topic about new kits from ukrainian company Clearprop. New releases CP4821 I-16 type 5 (in the sky of Spain early version), 1/48 48211920×1399 287 KB CP4822 I-16 type 5 (in the sky of Spain late version), 1/48 48221920×1398 208 KB Accessories, 1/48 CPA480411333×796 232 KB CPA721191342×836 160 KB Accessories, 1/72 CPA721191342×836 160 KB CPA721211321×782 225 KB CPA721221324×784 247 KB CPA721301325×800 251 KB CPA721311311×787 243 KB CPA721321337×796 258 KB
    1 point
  7. Phenomenal! The modeling is enough, but the electrical work is also an engineering marvel. Those couple of pics of your interior fuselage shots could double for reference pics from a walk-around book! Gil
    1 point
  8. Two Tamiya kits, just having a little fun with these guys.
    1 point
  9. The ninth week is my “challenge week” on the CH-46A/D! I call it challenge week because trying to put the fuselage together with all the wiring routed requires all the subassemblies to be put together at the same time. To start with I scratch built the fire extinguishers for the cabin using styrene rods and some solder. Two of these were mounted near each of the gun mounts. The third one will mount near the rear door later. I then began routing the wiring. Starting with the tail the wiring was routed thru the upper panels into the forward bulk head with the other wiring. I used acrylic gel to hold down the wires so they would not interfere with the forward rotor shaft. They were then routed over the bulk head and between the bulk heads between cockpit and cabin. All of this wiring was routed thru the floor and tied in with the wiring for the instrument panel and lower flashing navigation light. The nose light wiring was then run under the cockpit floor and all of the wires were tied together where the rear landing gear assembly will be mounted. I then performed a light check to make sure all the lights were wired in. The starboard side wires were also routed the same way. I then performed a light check to make sure all the lights were wired in. The fuselage halves were then carefully aligned and were glued together in sections making sure not to pinch any wires. With the halves glued together I used some long tweezers to mount the starboard side seats and the upper panels. The wiring was all dressed up and a second light check was done. The lighting effects are exactly how I wanted them to look. I need to clean up the fuselage seams and then assemble and install the rear landing gear assembly. The wiring will be routed thru each of the rear landing gear and tires so they can pass thru the base. There are still a few more details to add the fuselage as well and then I can start with the base coat of paint. You can see more photos and details of this build from the start in the build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ch-46a-d-helicopter/
    1 point
  10. These are the latest vehicles I finished to add to the collection. These were some simple and kits I started some time ago and left behind, so it was time to just get them finished up. One of them was actually finished in March on the 31st. It's this little 1/72 scale Military Wheels Russian PK-43 Field Kitchen: Next is this Valiant Miniatures German IG-8 Infantry supply train: Here you can see a little bit of the supplies they have loaded up: And last, we have the Syrian T34/85 tank. I used Braille Strike decals to make this a Syrian tank: Yes, the triangle got messed up on the one side of the turret. Someday I'll fix that. And that's what I got done for this month (and last), thank you all for looking in, comments are welcome.
    1 point
  11. here is the update PROJECT # 1 EC-130V version ... (APR 12th ) ..Today , I glued back the nose wheels, done a clear coat on the wing /back section of the fuselages and continue the work on the wing tanks and painted one of them ! Like to view the complete WIP of this project ,follow this Google link .. https://goo.gl/photos/jxfUh5Muw34MqsRY7 Enjoy and it's an 'rendez-vous' next week for more .on this particular project..!.
    1 point
  12. Dear friends I want introduce the not young and not famous ukrainian manufacturer. But this manufacturer offer interesting kits in different scales - 1/35, 1/48, 1/72 and some of 1/144, 1/350, 1/16 Here will be topic concerning news from AMG. To see more from their line you can here So, last news: AMG 72108 - Pz.Kpfw 771(r) Ger Small AFV WW2 era 1/72 AMG 35208 - Pz.Kpfw 771(r) Ger Small AFV 1/35 35208750×554 127 KB AMG 35308 - Max HENSCHEL aerosan (attack version), 1/35 1 353081600×902 163 KB AMG 72308 - Max Henschel aerosan (Attack version), 1/72 723081000×731 188 KB AMG 35305 - NKL-26 Aerosan FINNISH Service , 1/35 353051600×1106 486 KB AMG 48906 - Hawker AUDAX. 1/48 489061000×736 197 KB AMG 72606 - Hawker Audax 1/72 726061000×737 175 KB
    1 point
  13. Thanks for following this WIP, it's quite appreciated EDUARD 1/48 DFW-28 FLOH (APR 09th).. Today I sanded the work done last time and apply more putty on the bottom joint, I also continue the work in the engine bay finally located an old AURORA engine that I plan to details and use for this project .! If you like to view the complete WIP on this project , just follow this GOOGLE link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/uHDXvrXDAzX93vMf7 If you like to view the other WWI kits I have done just follow this Google link : https://photos.app.goo.gl/kHNcWFg6wQ5QgDYp6 Enjoy ! Jmarc
    1 point
  14. Eight weeks into the CH-46D and I am still working on the interior details. The guns are due in this week. While waiting for delivery I started modifying the tail. I opened up the vent on the port side and added a photo etch screen. The inside was then painted flat black to block and light from showing thru. The opto-couplers were mounted to the bottom and I used 0.75mm fiber optics to run to the light points. For the navigation light I melted the tip of the fiber optic to replicate the navigation light. The upper flashing lights will go to the lenses supplied in the kit later after the fuselage is painted. Next I made the twin lights in the nose using two pico sized bright white LED’s. I used kapton tape to mask the nose and the cockpit doors so these can be painted later as well. The guns and ammo belts arrived! The resin guns look way better and their size is more accurate for the scale. I used some scrap photo etch to make the axial mount for the guns. The rear gun sights looked a little thick so I replaced these with photo etch versions. The gun mounts were then cleaned up and painted. I found a few more reference photos that detailed the area around the gun mounts. One thing I noticed was there are a few fire extinguishers near them. I am going to scratch build these. The kit instructions have a very good detail photo of this and the kit section was really bad. The stairs are very thick and the rail was a thick wall. I tried to clean this up and modify it but there was just way too much to modify. I decided to scratch build it from photo etch and styrene scraps. I am hoping to start on the fuselage assembly later this week. You can see more photos and details of this build from the start in the build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ch-46a-d-helicopter/
    1 point
  15. I had the same issue with this kit Gil. About 90-95% fit just right but a few of the ones that didn't were too small.
    1 point
  16. Anyone that followed my models know I'm mostly figures and space/sci-fi. But I saw this kit and as a regular viewer of Night Shift, I had to try - - Meng Models World War Toons Sherman tank. It's one of those "deformed" type models, like the egg planes. There was no scale listed. The biggest bonus to me was that they had the "rubber band" type treads. I couldn't imagine myself sitting there assembling the treads one section at a time. I assembled the major sub-assemblies and then painted it the US Olive Drab green. After that I added the decals which went on very nicely. I then added a little weathering ala Night Shift. The base was done with a piece of cut up foam, and the hedgerow is a plastic aquarium filter material covered in Ground foam. With that I was finished. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  17. HI ! Here another project I have done in the past , the lozange camo where cut one by one, I done this in the late 80' when none of the decals was available, it depic the one in the CANADIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM ,, If you like to view more pics, I have set up an GOOGLE page for it , just follow this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5KcNiB3UkquwpGZ46 Enjoy ! Jmarc
    1 point
  18. Thank you Kevin and I totally agree with your comment about the beauty of a consistent scale! I also cannot wait until I make it to 1000!
    1 point
  19. That rocks! Magnificent work on that toon! Way to go Kevin!
    1 point
  20. The news of April 2024 24081 - "At the Edge of the Universe. Strange Company’s Adventures. Episode IV. "We beat them!", 1/24 Master Box 35235 Russian-Ukrainian War № 9. Ukrainian SOF. Sniper group 1/35 Re-issued items Master Box 3507 - German tank crew, set #1 (4 figures) 1/35 Master Box 3530 Sd. Kfz. 1 Type 170 VK, German Military Staff Car, WW II, 1/35 Master Box 3531 Sd.Kfz. 2 Type 170 VK, German military radio car, WW II, 1/35
    1 point
  21. HI ! Here another project I have done in the past for a modeling sci-fi contest , of course this is an scratchbuilt project , If you like to view more pics, I have set up an Google page , Just follow this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/M1Rzd3esQZfJZcf77 Enjoy ! Jmarc
    1 point
  22. In my quest to build kits that I have been trying to avoid (due to complicated assembly, size, etc.), I dug out the 1/10th scale Bandai “ISS Space Suit” kit. I bought this at an IPMS Nats in 2012 and knew it was articulated and would require a lot of filler and putty to eliminate the “toy” look. I filled in all the movable joints with Apoxie Sculpt and I think it came out pretty nice. I have videos of the build here: https://youtu.be/GQwVegq4TwE.
    1 point
  23. HI ! Here another project I have done in the past , of course it's scratchbuilt , if you like to view more pic of it ,I have set up an Google page just follow this link: https://goo.gl/photos/EFPoMBzrefWJRP9cA Enjoy ! Jmarc
    1 point
  24. WHOOOOO.. Lots of nice stuff in there .. thanks for sharing them with us, it's quite appreciated !
    1 point
  25. Arriving at the seventh week of this CH-46 project I worked on the cockpit. I continued on the instrument panel. I used this sheet styrene to make a light box and then used the photo etch hood on the top. I then used the decal of the instrument faces on the front of the panel. The photo etch face was then mounted on top of the decal. I finished the instrument panel with two coats of flat black paint and verified I had no light leaks. The pilot and co-pilot seats were assembled and detailed with photo etch seat belts. The control sticks, seats and instrument panel were then mounted to the cockpit. During the various steps where the instrument panel was drying I was able to mount the interior walls to the inside of the fuselage. For the side navigation lights I made two opto-couplers to hold the LED’s. I used a 0.75mm fiber optic line and used a flame to slightly melt the one end. This melted end is the lens for the side navigation light. It was fed thru the fuselage and then trimmed flush on the inside. The opto-coupler was then mounted with the LED aligned to the fiber optic. The wiring for the LED’s will be painted and routed to the forward bulkhead to join the rest of the wiring. One of the things that are beneficial is when I post these weekly updates. It allows others to see how I do things but it also allows others to provide insight on details I may have missed or gotten wrong. As an example I was informed by a fellow modeler that the crew seats were not one long bench but rather they are in four seat sections. I searched and found a reference photo that shows this as well as the seat belts. I then modified the seats into sections and using the glass cloth tape I made the seat belts and using some spare photo etch pieces I made the buckles and the mounts for them. Moving forward I have one more detail to add the interior, the machine gun mounts. I looked over the kit guns and these lacked a lot of details. I decided to use aftermarket items to replace these. I ordered a set of Royal Model .50 caliber photo etch ammo belts and the Eduard resin waist guns. These should be delivered this coming week. I will have one aimed outside the port side and the starboard side will be in the stored position with the cover over it. While I am waiting for these to be delivered I am going to start work on the tail rotor section. The tail section has two red flashing lights on the top and a white navigation light out the back. These will be done with LED opto-couplers and fiber optics. You can see more photos and details of this build from the start in the build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ch-46a-d-helicopter/
    1 point
  26. here is the update on the 2 ongoing C-130 projects ..You'le notice there is only one images available on each project , you can view more of the update picture of each projects on the Google link PROJECT # 1 EC-130V version ... (MAR 29th ) ..Today , I complete the decal of the front left side fuselage and add a small antenna to the top side ! Like to view the complete WIP of this project ,follow this Google link .. https://goo.gl/photos/jxfUh5Muw34MqsRY7 Enjoy and it's an 'rendez-vous' next week for more .on this particular project..!.
    1 point
  27. Brilliant work Ed! You sure have the Midas touch when it comes to making these masterpieces!
    1 point
  28. Those are some very cool builds! I've always like the markings on that P-47B and the NMF on the XB-51 is sharp! Thanks for sharing! Gil
    1 point
  29. https://forms.office.com/r/NtNMUumtyK This is the link that gets you on the list for one of the 185 rooms at the new Embassy Suites 1/2 a block from the convention center. The Embassy set up this list and they will turn the list into reservations when their system is set up.
    1 point
  30. Most likely in my mancave.
    1 point
  31. (MAR 22nd ) ..Today , I continue the decals on the front left side fuselage ! Like to view the complete WIP of this project ,follow this Google link .. https://goo.gl/photos/jxfUh5Muw34MqsRY7 Enjoy and it's an 'rendez-vous' next week for more .on this particular project..!.
    1 point
  32. Here I am at the fifth week of the CH-46D build and am still working on the cargo/crew area. To begin with I painted and mounted the overhead lights. I ten ran various wires and lines on the roof. Inside the cargo/crew area are upper panels with what look like moving blankets and folding seats for the crew. The kit crew seats look a little small compared to the reference photo so I opted to build my own. I started with using 0.75mm styrene rods and made the seat frame. I then used some nylon red cloth and created the seats. I am thinking of having one side folded up and the other side folded down or both sides down. Next for the upper panels I have some very thin “L” channel styrene strips. I used these as the upper and lower supports for the upper panels. For the blanket area I used some 3M glass cloth tape. The nice thing about having these panels mounted is they will aid in hiding the wires for the rear door and tail lights which need to be routed forward and then down. I then finally started on the floor. I panted it gunship grey to simulate the non-skid surface. The roller tracks were then taped off and painted. I sanded down the cockpit center console and added the photo etch panel. I still need to add the various levers and details but will wait until I actually start doing the cockpit so they won’t accidently get lost. With all these details in the cargo/crew area I still need to figure out how the order to get all these mounted inside and rout all the wiring. I am now working on the bulkheads between the cockpit and the cargo/crew area. There will be a channel so all the LED wiring can be routed to the bottom of the fuselage. Then I can start working on illuminating the instrument panel and finishing off the cockpit. You can see this build from the start in the build log at: https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ch-46a-d-helicopter/
    1 point
  33. I'm glad you like it ...Thanks gentleman for the kind words, it's quite appreciated !.. I use the canopy top gun are from combat , the round window cut out from clear styrene , I use the TAMIYA LANCASTER front and back guns one
    1 point
  34. Hey Everyone! Here's a few I recently acquired. The tools are some micro chisels from UMM.
    1 point
  35. I got two models recently. One was a gift from a guy clearing his closet. He's more of a gamer so all that mattered to him was that I build models and it was a model he gave me. Yes, I'll build it: This next one was a purchase at my SoCal AMPS meeting that I picked up to start at our build night meeting that was starting that night. I'm going to be making this a Syrian tank: Thanks for looking in.
    1 point
  36. This kit has been in my stash for a long time. After first seeing it, I had to have it, but once a copy was mine I didn't think I could do it justice, and put it in my pile. The mark on the kit says 2013. While I consider myself a pretty good novice, I thought I would give it a try. And the timing was right as my model club (the BPMS), was asking for a kit I would build as part of my pledge. This is where you pledge a model to build in January and by October, you have it finished. Back to the kit. This is another from John Dennett's Crypto Legends series. As mentioned the sculpt is outstanding. I don't think anyone has measured the JD, so I have no idea of the scale of the kit. It comes in 10 pieces and a base, made from very clear cream color resin. Here and there you see a hint of a seam line, but a minute or two of scraping and it was gone. Not having an idea about the devil color yet - most images on the net have it back or a dark color - and I'm kinda tired of too many of my horror models dark - I decided to work on the base first. Being the Devil is always pictured in red I thought I would use reds and browns. Tho for the wings I tried to mimic a little translucent skin - Being that the Devil is supposed to be prowling the NJ Pin Barrens, Dennett put a few pine cones on the ground. But taking it up another notch I thought it cool to cut the bristles of a disposable paint brush - they were tan after all - and use them as pine needles. I sprayed a heavy layer of hair spray on the base (protecting the water area) and started cutting. I didn't notice right away, but the bristle turn out to be transparent when seeing just a piece of one. Arrrggghhh! I figured it would be a bigger headache trying to collect up all the pieces that were now covered in a still drying hairspray, that I decided to just paint each "needle" one at a time. Ugh... Something I saw on YouTube of a guy building an airplane was to get all the instrument details in a cockpit, he painted the whole thing a dark color and then when the paint dried, he lightly scrapped the instruments revealing the lighter color plastic, then he could paint that button whatever color he wanted. I thought "Why couldn't I do that with all the text?" Turns out you can. The white resin looked too stark, so I added some Vallejo Yellow Ink, and now it really pops . With a few other tidbits to neaten things up, I was finished. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  37. Here is my build of the bandai Star Wars Snow Speeder from Empire Strikes back. Kit was painted in lacquer paints, enamel panel liner, acrylic paint and few other mediums. Really enjoyed this build when I painted it early this year. I omitted the clear canopy the plastic is too thick in my opinion. Traditionally a lit of the og props and models didn't have it to my knowledge. So it felt a little more authentic. Hope you enjoy my build
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...