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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Gary and Jim are both mostly correct. But if it was personal risk only, it is a relatively simple ethical calculus. But when you consider the chance of also infecting others, (at the Convention or subsequently at home) you are in a sense asking them to take on the possible health consequences of a decision they were not involved in making. Each of us, when we risk exposure, are not just choosing for ourselves, but for everyone with whom we come in contact. And, to the observation: ‘But that means we need to avoid ANY non-essential contact and practice social distancing until there is a vaccine’ I would reply: ‘ Well, Yeah!’ This resilient organization has weathered at least one financial disaster ( when Treasurer absconded with the treasury many years ago). I have no doubt we will survive this, as well, if we want IPMS to go on. I know I do. Nick
  2. 3 points
    Hi, A few points and I will be quick. My comments are as a Modeler, IPMS Member, and a Vendor. Postpone the convention until 2023. Getting the already bought items like shirts, awards, etc for this years convention in 2023 would be a unique way to remember this time. So, all of it can be used and we all will have a great story to tell. Who here wants to take responsibility for someone healthy coming to the convention, getting the bug and either having the virus themselves or worse spreading it when they get home. Sure, some of you want to play fast and loose with it but until there is a therapy and/or a vaccine, it is a medical risk for everyone. In reality, while we all love to come to the NATS for the various reasons, it is not required to attend...it is for enjoyment. Yes there are many risky enjoyments that Many of us participate in. None of us will go flying without a preflight and none of us would go skydiving without checking the gear. If someone, with expertise told you there may be a hidden problem somewhere with the Plane or the chute rig, would you chance it?? No, no sane individual would. My wife and I are not in any of the risk categories for COVID-19, but our Doctors, including our Daughter who is a US Navy Doctor, say unnecessary exposure to others is to be avoided....period. To do otherwise is to take unnecessary risk.......and its is with your life people! Gary,GT Resin
  3. 3 points
    Another idea: Instead of trying to change three convention dates and contracts, just change one. Leave Vegas and Omaha as they are. If 2020 gets cancelled, move it to 2023. If the hotel is forced to cancel 2020, that gets us off the hook in San Marcos. That “ get out of contract free” card is only applicable this year, so can’t be played in 2021 and 2022. We keep those dates and contracts, and are free to sign a new one in 2023.
  4. 2 points
    I saw a description of pandemic relief as a three legged stool. Leg one is self quarinitine and social distancing to reduce spread. Leg two was an effective treatment after someone developes it. Leg three of the stool is a vacine to prevent people from getting it. Right now we only have one leg(distancing) and the hint of a second leg(treatments that are showing promise but aren't a sure thing). It is very difficult to stand on such a stool with confidance. I have had three heart procudures since March(the last one in a covid restricted hospital) and much as I would like to attend(had my reservations already) I am not going to sit on that stool this year. Hope to see you all in Vegas
  5. 2 points
    Hi Guys, I am not a Doctor but I trust them with my life every time I have surgery to put my broken body back together, 28 to be exact . I had three more procedures scheduled for this year, two carpel tunnel and a new left shoulder. All of the doctors involved in these procedures, several who are personal friends, have told me to not plan on having any of these done until there is a vaccination or other medical development to affectively deal with the virus presents itself. And of course as friends they tell me to suck it up and deal with it!! LOL Be Safe, Gary
  6. 2 points
    Listen guys, this organization may be imaginary, but they've got standards! 🤣 Gotta love Star Trek, and the Reliant is one of my favorite ships. I really hope you changed that prefix code!
  7. 2 points
    Excellent looking model of a lesser known variant! I've always felt the Hurricane overall gets the short shrift most of the time in the tall shadow of the more storied Spitfire. That's a great tribute to the harder working Hurricane for your collection! Gil
  8. 1 point
    Thanks Peter for the input. Problem solved. Christopher
  9. 1 point
    I picked up one of these from the Small Shop and I like it. It allows me to get very close cuts so I don't have much of a nub to remove. For what nubs I do have, I generally use a diamond file and in a few swipes it's clean. If the part is especially small or hard to file, I'll put the part in a parts bender on the flat side and clamp it down so it doesn't !!PING!! and get eaten by the carpet monster. Just my two pennies!
  10. 1 point
    Nicolas, For me it depends on the piece in question. When dealing with the really small stuff, the object is to not have a stub to trim. If I can gain access to the desired part without damaging anything, a pair of opthomology scissors does a great job. They also are useful for trimming pieces you can actually hold that have stubs that need trimming. Another approach is to hold the fret down on a hard surface such as a piece of ceramic tile, then use a new blade to cut the stub next to the part. Result? No stub. Be sure to cover at least part of the desired piece with your thumb or finger so it doesn't fly off into never never land when you cut it free. Another possibility is to put the fret down onto a piece of low tack tape, sticky side up, then cut close to the part so that there's no stub. Keep in mind that another factor is that all photoetch isn't the same thickness or the same material, so you will have to adjust your approach accordingly. Hope some of this helps. Richard
  11. 1 point
    For my next build I will be building Hasegawa’s 1/48 F-104C Starfighter. This will be detailed with the Eduard photo etch. For the scheme I am building it as a Viet Nam aircraft. Caracal decals has a nice set (#CD48102) that includes 9 different markings. Three of them are the typical silver version that were part of the initial deployment and 6 of them have the Viet Nam camouflage scheme. I will be doing the camouflage version of the “Nancy J / Snoopy Sniper” (Aircraft 56-0891) that was stationed at Udorn Royal Thai Air Force Base in Thailand in 1966. Starting off with the ejection seat, the only part of the kit seat being used is the bottom of the seat. The rest of it is all photo etch. The photo etch includes all the seat belts and side harnesses. Once assembled it fit into the cockpit tub without any problems. The main landing gear bay then was assembled and detailed with some wires and hoses. The instrument panel was then built up and detailed. The fuselage was then fitted together with the cockpit tub and main gear bay. This is where I need to mention an issue with the kit instructions. Step 6 of the instructions has you install the cockpit and main gear bays then the fuselage is put together. The problem is in step 7 they have you install the instrument panel with the HUD section. You cannot put the instrument panel into the fuselage. I ended up cutting the front section of the fuselage apart so I could put it in. While it was not too difficult, it would have been better to install the instrument panel at the same time as the cockpit tub. Next I will be working on the landing gear and exhaust. You can see more photos and follow along in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-104c-starfighter-snoopy-sniper-1966/
  12. 1 point
    I feel like being in isolation I should bet getting more done, but real life is not respectful of how dedicated I am to my hobby. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Here're two more WIP photos where it actually starts looking like a plane.
  13. 1 point
    I’m going to let someone else take this one!🙄🤔😬 Nick
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    I've mostly been buying glues and other supplies, but a while ago, Brookhurst had a sale on select model kits. So, in addition to the paints and glues I bought, I got these three German destroyers: The first two were six bucks each, the last one was eight. I couldn't pass that up! Then I got a PM from a fellow Forum member on another Forums, offering me some 1/72 scale aircraft that he knew he would never build. I accepted; not knowing how many he would send. I was quite surprised at the size of the box and the number of kits he packed inside: Wow! How very generous! Thank you my good man, these are most appreciated. I already started one of them: the Val, which is one Japanese aircraft I haven't ever had in my collection. You can see the start of that in my Maddog Manufacturing Thread. Now I have even more to do during this stay-at-home time. Thanks for looking in. Now to go update my manufacturing thread.
  16. 1 point
    I for one think you nailed that answer perfectly Nick. I don't know how anyone could argue that; it is clear, concise and well spoken. Cameron, I think you have your answer.
  17. 1 point
    According to the IPMS Las Vegas website, the dates are 18-21 August, 2021. Regards, Nick
  18. 1 point
    The B7A2 “Grace” is now complete! This was a very nice kit to build. Everything fit together nicely. The instructions were laid out well t make the build go smoothly. The decals went on well. Just a couple of things about the decals, First the dark green outline on the fuselage and upper wings are an identical match to the Tamiya XF11 J.N. Green paint so they blend in too well, and the insignia’s are two part decals. Getting them line up requires careful alignment. I would recommend applying the base decal first and let it dry then place the top red one. This will keep the bottom from shifting while centering the top. If you are looking for a nice WWII Japanese aircraft that was unique I would recommend this kit. Thanks for following along. You can see this build with photos and details from the start at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-aichi-b7a2-grace-attack-aircraft/
  19. 1 point
    Tamiya 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6, as flown by Constantin “Bazu” Cantacuzino during the LCOL James Gunn rescue mission. You can read the whole crazy story at https://www.historynet.com/pilot-prince-rescue.htm Additions include: Eduard Seat Harness. Eduard LooK instrument panel. Bare Metal Foil to hydraulic oleo struts. “Invisible” thread aerial. Exito decals. Erla Haube canopy sourced from EDU82111X overtree kit. Radio Aerial cone fashioned from plasticard.
  20. 1 point
    Great looking 109 James! Those American marking really add a splash of color not normally seen. Thanks for posting! Gil
  21. 1 point
    The kit had a few issues that needed some attention. EJECTOR PIN MARKS in some of the worst places.. Starting from the front, moving back, these are some of the modifications I made. 1.The propeller. I sanded both the leading, and trailing edges of each blade. They were so thick on the edges, it was funny. 2. The engine. I used Eduard photo etch to detail it. The Ignition wires took some time, but it was well worth the effort. 3. The cockpit. I used Eduard photo etch here to. 4.The landing gear. I used Bare Metal Foil on the Oleo's, and photo etch on the torque links. 5. The gun bay. I used scrap photo etch to detail the inside of each panel that was posed open. I cut open all the latched on each panel, and made new ones. I used plastic sheet, that I put rivet lines on, to line the inside of the bay. The .50 Cals were kit supplied. 6. The intakes on each wing root. I used photo etch screen to replace the kit version, and made new intake vanes. 7. The drop tanks. These were both void of any real detail. One of the big flaws, was no filler caps. I used online photos as a reference to scratch build what I needed.8. I used EZ line for the antennas. 9. The figures were Ultracast, and Blackdog models. 10. The cowl flaps. These bad boys took some engineering to make them work. I used Eduard photo etch for the Tamiya kit to dress them up. I also used EZ line to simulate cables for the pulley systems to open and close the flaps. All in all, an interesting build. Had a chance to try some new weathering techniques. The Model was painted with Testors Model Master Enamels (Insignia Blue FS35044). Any questions, comments, or critiques are welcome. Christopher
  22. 1 point
    That is so cool! Outstanding story too! Beautiful. I'm gonna have to try that on one of my 1/72 scale planes.
  23. 1 point
    Beautiful work ! I never knew a BF 109 flown during WWII could look so good in those colors. You might just start a "What If " trend for Axis aircraft
  24. 1 point
    Dang that's looking great. Love the details on the engine!!
  25. 1 point
    The 2020 Astronomical League Convention (ALCON) was also to be held in Albuquerque this summer. It has been moved to 2021. But that was relatively easy. First, there had been no bidder for a 2021 convention, so the Astronomical League was very happy to fill that gap. Second, the Embassy Suites was cooperative, especially in light of the force majeure clause in the contract. Our exposure was $76K, but the exposure was the League's, not the local club's. And third, our financial analysis indicated that we would loose our shirt, pants, and cowboy hats if we pressed on. Registrations had simply stopped; vendors refused to commit, and speakers were bailing out. HST, I was the Registrar for ALCON, but have bowed out for 2021. Although about 80% of our registration team's preparatory work had been done, I wasn't willing to add another year to the already year and a half's work (hundreds of hours) which had blown my 2020 summer to shreds. Our club bailed out over two months ago; and it has become clear that we made the correct decision.
  26. 1 point
    Gary Nope not mad at all. I just take issues with a few of your points that's all. I'm sorry if you think I came across as ugly but again i was just making my points. I'll copy and paste your comments and answer them from the 1st post, then the second. Your first post> A few points and I will be quick. My comments are as a Modeler, IPMS Member, and a Vendor. Postpone the convention until 2023. Getting the already bought items like shirts, awards, etc for this years convention in 2023 would be a unique way to remember this time. So, all of it can be used and we all will have a great story to tell. Who here wants to take responsibility for someone healthy coming to the convention, getting the bug and either having the virus themselves or worse spreading it when they get home. Sure, some of you want to play fast and loose with it but until there is a therapy and/or a vaccine, it is a medical risk for everyone. In reality, while we all love to come to the NATS for the various reasons, it is not required to attend...it is for enjoyment. Yes there are many risky enjoyments that Many of us participate in. None of us will go flying without a preflight and none of us would go skydiving without checking the gear. If someone, with expertise told you there may be a hidden problem somewhere with the Plane or the chute rig, would you chance it?? No, no sane individual would. My wife and I are not in any of the risk categories for COVID-19, but our Doctors, including our Daughter who is a US Navy Doctor, say unnecessary exposure to others is to be avoided....period. To do otherwise is to take unnecessary risk.......and its is with your life people! Ok, Point one, What will people recieve? T-shirts already bought? Ok fair enough but you can't hand out already purchased and constructed awards. A decal sheet that may or may not have been produced? as well as programs that now would be useless. Also how would you distribute them? mailing would cost money and I would venture a bet that most people haven't registered for the convention yet and they would be the only ones to fairly receive them so now in essence you have maybe 700 to 1000 registration packs with how many registrants right now? and how many would register given the fact it may still be cancelled? So in reality there are not any "already bought items" save for whatever items the planning committee is selling. Point two, Not being mean here just reality, no one is ultimately responsible except for themselves. If you have a fear of contracting something then stay home, or if you fall into one of the associated groups that need to stay home then by all means stay home and do what is right for you. But what may be right for you isn't necessarily right for everyone. So that's when i take exception to your "Fast and Loose" comment. There is currently a vaccine for the flu and how many die of the flu every year? As I said we don't live in a sterile world, we all take chances. Point three, Experts can't agree on this let alone try to fix it as they have done with the flu, yes the flu that kills how many each year? And I agreed with you with on this being a required event, it's not. But my point is everyone is not in the same boat. So when you say Someone with expertise says not to go and I may feel otherwise then, (I'm not sane), or (playing fast and loose) And then finally (And it is with your life people) Those are inflammatory comments with the implication that those who disagree are all the things you just called them. Your second post> I have waited to respond until I had a free few minutes, as you are obviously mad and I wanted to try an understand why. First this is a friendly conversation and no need to get ugly. Second you need to read what I wrote, not what you think I wrote. If you don't like it address it, but be better than accusing me of writing something I did not about character. What does concern me is a 6 figure contact being signed with no legal consultation, and the fact that no contract insurance was purchased. I would be willing to bet though, that if the committee did sat down for a meaningful discussion with the facility, that a deal could be worked out for rescheduling the event until 2023 with minimal if any additional costs, given the current world environment. Cancelling the event completely, or going forward with a very small event that looses money are not in either parties best interests. I guess I would feel better if NATS Committee had a conversation to explore possible rescheduling until 2023 vs acting like we have no way out. So far all we have been told is that the convention center has been receptive to re-negotiation if there is a problem. I say that such a problem is here right now. You're correct it's supposed to be friendly conversation but I think I have already addressed the ugliness with your comments about being insane, playing fast and loose, and it is your life people comments. A 6 figure contract was signed 2 years ago without any thought to a pandemic occurring . I would venture that they probably didn't take into account a possible meteor strike either. Contract insurance, good question, i have no idea if it was bought but would take a guess that if purchased the insurance company would balk as they have with numerous travel insurance plans have balked at people trying to get out of and get money back for lost trips. They weren't covered because they were "Acts of god". So I'm not real confident on how insurance would help in this case. Now betting on the venue rebooking is a BIG assumption and we all know about assumptions. Not saying it couldn't be done or shouldn't tried but don't put all your eggs in that basket because the venue like everyone else needs to recoup lost revenue for the past two months. Letting IPMS off the hook when the city is open for business would be something I don't see happening. I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time and won't be the last. The planning staff may be acting like there is no way out because there is no way out. The convention committee are the boots on the ground there and know the in's and out's of these issues better than any of us. You may say there is a problem now but the venue may not see a problem now especially as the city is opening for business . That's why I'm very sceptical of getting out of or re-negotiating a contract. Jim
  27. 1 point
    Outstanding job. I'm working on the 1/48 P-38 Hasagawa kit now. No doubt the Tamiya kit is better, but the Hasagawa kit only cost me $12.50 back 1992! 🙂
  28. 1 point
    Jim, I have waited to respond until I had a free few minutes, as you are obviously mad and I wanted to try an understand why. First this is a friendly conversation and no need to get ugly. Second you need to read what I wrote, not what you think I wrote. If you don't like it address it, but be better than accusing me of writing something I did not about character. What does concern me is a 6 figure contact being signed with no legal consultation, and the fact that no contract insurance was purchased. I would be willing to bet though, that if the committee did sat down for a meaningful discussion with the facility, that a deal could be worked out for rescheduling the event until 2023 with minimal if any additional costs, given the current world environment. Cancelling the event completely, or going forward with a very small event that looses money are not in either parties best interests. I guess I would feel better if NATS Committee had a conversation to explore possible rescheduling until 2023 vs acting like we have no way out. So far all we have been told is that the convention center has been receptive to re-negotiation if there is a problem. I say that such a problem is here right now. You all be safe< Gary
  29. 1 point
    Nick, perhaps you can answer a medical question about this virus. In the absence of a workable vaccine which does not appear near it seems the only way for a population to deal with this thing is by physical distancing or the hope(?) that a "herd immunity" will develop which certainly will take time and a human cost. I know this a tad off topic but I am curious, Is this assessment correct? Hoping to be able to see you in San Marcos... Stay safe, Pat D
  30. 1 point
    Thanks to Gil & Mark for the suggestion to put some shine back on the gauges. I used a bit of Micro Kristal Klear dabbed on each dial with a toothpick. Actually, it's one of those fancy metal toothpicks you can reuse, and I will say they're a lot more useful than they sound. Some of the "glass" domes are a bit cloudy but they look good on the whole. I think part of the MKK was a bit too dry near the cap so it went on a tad funny. Regardless, like most mistakes you can chalk that one up to "weathering." What pilot wouldn't scratch his dashboard wriggling out of that tiny cockpit? I did think about using Future (or Pledge, or whatever we're calling it now... I have enough for about three lifetimes considering the size of the bottle) but I was afraid it'd run. I think tonight I'll add the oil cooler, which I just finished painting, and then button up the halves of the fuselage! Exciting stuff. I may even break out the somewhat-overly-complex Touch-N-Flow-N-Spill. 😂 Please don't use these close ups to make copies of my fingerprints and frame me for crimes. Thank you.
  31. 1 point
    As I have been told several times, you are the one person that has to look at the model every time you walk by. My suggestion would be, whatever color looks right to your eye IS the right color. If someone tells me the color or a detail of some sci-fi subject i have built isn't correct, my response is "It is in my universe."
  32. 1 point
    Looks sharp to me! My only suggestion would be that after you matte everything, go back and add a drop of Future or Micro-Clear to each of the dials on the main panel. Staying tuned for more! Gil
  33. 1 point
    All My .02 cents for what it's worth. RC Boater hit the nail on the head. If it does get cancelled then move it to 23. But provided it gets cancelled by the hotel or local authorities. Now here is another no win factor for IPMS. Attendance, Vendors may and have pulled out, pre reg and actual walkins I would bet would be down due to fear and also genuine concerns of quite a few of our embers being up their in age and risk factors . So even if the facility goes ahead and lets it continue does IPMS have an out in the contract with these genuine concerns of loosing big bucks due to low attendance. Either way its a no win for us as an organization. Cancel and loose the convention, or hold hit and loose $$$$$. Jim
  34. 1 point
    Apparently, things have changed in even the past two months. Our local HobbyTown (Columbia, SC) was informed in March that the only Testors products that would be available were the square bottle enamels (in boxed sets only), generic aerosols, and the glues. Think back to 1975, and that's what they were laying out as their "new" lansdcape for 2020. As I've posted on several other forums, this may seem a shock, but there is precious little Testors produced that can not be found elsewhere. Do you like enamels? Humbrol is still available, as is Xtracolour. Also, True North Precision Paints makes an alkyd enamel that, from reports I've read, are as good as the Testors Model Master line. Lacquer fans abandoned Testors years ago when they squashed the original Floquil line. Now, we have Mr. Color, MRP, and Tru-Color. Acrylics users never really liked the Acyl line (I must be one of 50 people who got good results with few problems). Today, just look around--Vallejo, Mig, Lifecolour, AK Interactive, Mission Models Paints... Putties? Testors putty has always been the shop vac of suck anyway, and most people steer well clear of it. Brushes? There are literally dozens of places to buy paint brushes equal to or superior than Testors. Glues and cements? The last time I used Testors tube glue, I was still buying Monogram model kits for a dollar. The last time I used their liquid was to thin Squadron Green Putty (the old stuff, $1.98 a tube!) to a brushable consistency. Since then, I have used (in no particular order of appearance) Weld-On #3, Weld-On #4, Plastruct Plastic Weld, Ambroid, Tamiya Extra Thin. All are still available (the Weld-On products in quantity through Tap Plastics). See where this is going? Even the specialty products like flocking (which has been gone for a few years) can be found elsewhere. Metalizers have competition from Alclad, AK, and Vallejo. The only products I have heard lament for (outside the Model Master enamels) are the bottled Glosscote and Dullcote. I might add the Metalizer Sealer to the list, as it was a superb, near-bulletproof clear gloss. But even those have equivalent products available. You just might have to order them. And there is the rub--more on that later. What makes it a shock is that we lose a long-time, well-recognized, name branded product that was available in most any hobby shop and arts and crafts store--and, before that, drug stores, dime stores, discount stores, department stores, hardware stores, convenience stores, toy stores... As much as it pains me to say this, in all but a very few cases the brick-and-mortar hobby ship is on life support. I'm finding that I have to get more and more hobby stuff online. I do buy from the local shops when I see it, and I try to have things ordered through them when I can, but because they can't get everything, I have to do what I must. Look at the short list I gave above--those places also used to carry model kits... By the way, Rustoleum, contrary to what people seem to believe, does NOT own Testors (despite the Rustoleum logo on the recent bottles). Testors (and Floquil/Polly-S, and, later, Pactra) were acquired in the 1980's by Republic Powdered Metals, now RPM International. RPM also owns Rustoleum, Zinser, Bondo, and several other related companies.
  35. 1 point
    Hey Gil, maybe the propeller had just gotten changed out for a better, less damaged one. I'd go with that...
  36. 1 point
    Thanks very much, Gil! Reading John Lundstrom's outstanding book, The First Team, many yeas ago, I knew I wanted to build a model of Rawie's aircraft. It took about 20 years, but I finally did it.
  37. 1 point
    Review Author: Allan Murrell Hauler Brengun Brengun brings a very welcome addition to the model aircraft market with this Extra 300L / 330 CL aerobatic plane. I have always wanted to build one and this release is most welcome. In the box is; 2 x light grey Sprues 1 x Clear canopy 1 x Decal sheet 1x Instruction booklet The sprue is well molded with very little flash and very good detail. The only issue is the plastic is very soft. Construction: First is the construction stages A & B assemble parts of the cockpit. In Stage A where the seats and instrument panel are built, the PE set adds improved instrument panel and also seat belts. These are welcome additions to this very simple layout. In stage B builds parts to the cockpit floor. The part numbers are missing from two parts which are in fact parts 21 and 23. At this stage the PE set replaces the pedals. Stage C assembles the Propeller, and wings stabilizers. The stabilizers are both replaced with PE parts which are far better. Stage D installs cockpit into the fuselage right half which was very easy. The next stage assembles the fuselage and instrument panel, The halves do need some filling once assembled. The wings and tails are assembled next all of which also need filling as they do not line up perfectly. The underside parts and undercarriage are installed next. There is sink marks in parts 29 and 28 that need to be filled. Also, I drilled out the exhaust as this is solid. The wheel struts are very flimsy and are prone to collapsing as they attachments are not very large. I suggest adding a metal pin to both. The PE stabilizers are added next and the tail wheel. Also, the PE set provides addition part to the aircraft like a step, wing tip stabilizers, antenna and tail wheel support. The Canopy is the last part to be attached. Now you paint the scheme you like from the two options included and the relevant decals. Summary This was a very nice and simple kit and was fun to build. I highly recommend this kit. Thanks go to Hauler/Brengun for providing this kit to review and IPMS USA for allowing me to review it for them. View the full article
  38. 1 point
    That would be great Nick. I will check that out. From the photos I have, it appears that the RAF chose large “buzz” or serial numbers for the Tempests and other aircraft at the end of WW II. The ones I have are too small and were left over from past projects. A photo example of what I’m looking for is illustrated below. Many thanks! Mark
  39. 1 point
    I agree, I always like the Soviet light tanks. Your build looks great.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Took this kit out of the pile as it's something different. I don't have any Mad Max on my shelves...until now. This is a 1/4 scale Gyro Captain from Sean Kyle Studios. It came signed and with a numbered certificate of authenticity. Mine is #6. It comes in about 5 parts. There are a bubble or two. But all in all a nicely done kit. One thing tho - there looks like a little blob of flash in the bag of parts. DON'T throw it out! It's actually his cigar!! LOL. If I have to find one thing to critique it would be the auto-gyro's propeller. It looks to be cut out of thin sheet styrene. The cutting was a little uneven, but the main problem was I couldn't straighten it out. It had a little bend it it that was there to stay. It was no problem at all to cut a new one out of slightly thicker styrene, making both blades the same. The sculpt is a very good likeness of the actor Bruce Spence. I started out by priming, and then started laying in the base coat. There were a few images online that I thought made him have a pasty appearance. So the paint went on a little light. Later on I saw other images that showed him with more "color." I'll address that later. While that was drying, I turned my attention to the propeller. As was said it was shaped a little wonky, but the big problem was the curve in the styrene. I was no problem to draw and cut out another. Turning back to the bust I added a little more depth to the colors, tanned him up and gave the engine base a metallic shine. Then I decided that the craft would have minimal care, and after seeing a how to about busted up metal I tried that on the engine. The other thing I was going to do was paint a nice wood grain on the propeller. But I found one image that showed it well, and no wood grain. It was colored black and a dark red. So that's the way I went. A little gloss to the goggles, and eyes and I was done. Thanks for looking.
  42. 1 point
    Is there any chance it could simply be postponed until next year? This what the Santa Fe Railway Historical & Modeling Society have done. Their 2020 convention, which was to have been held in Albuquerque in late June, will now be held there next year. I note too, that IPMS North Central Texas has cancelled ScaleFest, which was to have been June 6.
  43. 1 point
    I'm a big fan of Alclad's metallics - they get a really good shine without that grainy look of, say, a Tamiya Chrome Silver or something. Maybe grainy isn't the right word, but it's all I can come up with at the moment. Gil's right - put on a black gloss primer and make sure it's super smooth and shiny for best results. I haven't had any issues with the Alclad black primer. You may need to polish the primer coat a bit to get it nice and even, but the effect is worth it. I did some candy paint on a sci-fi model I built not too long ago, and the Alclad chrome really made the final color pop.
  44. 1 point
    She is Nocturna, from appropriately Nocturna Models, a stunning 30mm model with excellent detail. Sadly, she's currently OOP. This resin model came in two parts - the figure/base and the top of the cross. Here's the model all primed up. Here I'm starting to work on some base coating. After numerous highlights in the skin, dress and hair. I'm just about done with this one. I bought a few plinths from GreenStuff World, so she'll be glued on to a simple one next session. I also used the smallest grass tufts I had to fill in the ground a bit. All finished with this little mini. It was highly detailed kit and really challenged my steady hands - even with my magnifiers. Thanks for looking. And... my obligatory soda can shot... :lol:
  45. 1 point
    Well done, sir! I like the colors you used. The Deep Red brings out the greens very well. Bill
  46. 1 point
    After recuperating from my surgery, I finally got to my hobby desk and the last figure I was working on was the Cary Cooper Beau Geste bust. the kit was produced by Norbert Ossner and sculpted by Alejandro Lopez Ramirez The kit is in 3 resin pieces - the bust, base, and frame for the movie poster. The movie poster printout is also added. Following the movie poster printout and a colorized photo, I added the base colors: During today's session, I put the finishing touches on Gary Cooper. For the base I put down some glue and then dusted it with Chinchilla Dust. This is stuff you can buy at a good pet store. Evidently Chinchillas don't use water so they take dust baths. This dust is incredible fine, and works well in many scales. I bought the 3lb jug, and it'll last more than a lifetime. When it's all dry I painted it with V's Dark Sand. To give a highlight I added a little Ivory to the Sand color. Then I thought it needed a little something, and made a few bullet holes with a drill bit. Filled in the divot with Vs Orange Brown, but that didn't stand out enough, so I added some black pastels to the holes. Don't know if that would ever happen, but... what the heck. From there I made the wooden frame for the movie poster looked bleached out and again added more glue and dust to make it look like sand blew onto the bottom of the frame. Then looking at the poster it seemed too new, so I mist coated it with matte clear coat to protect the ink, and then aged it with Citadel's Sepia. From there I added a few dust streaks with a pastel that matched the Dark Sand. I glued the poster to the frame, the frame to the wall and I was done. Thanks for looking.
  47. 1 point
    Another excellent sculpt from John Dennett and Moondevil Studios. The 1:5th bust was cast in a light green odorless resin. The kit comes in 2 parts - the bust and the base. After washing with warm soapy water, and giving it a coat of primer I wanted to make Jacob the ghost he was when seen in his scene of A Christmas Carol. I had used Citadel's Nihilakh Oxide on the Ghost Lighthouse Keeper and decided Jacob needed the same treatment. But first he needed his earthly colors. As this movie (1952 film) was in B&W, I was free to use whatever I want. So I decided on a white shirt, black jacket, and maroon tie, pale flesh and auburn hair. Ol' Ebenezer looking on favorably From there I started his ghostly change - The purple is masking fluid to protect painted eyes I went back and forth with Jacob adding and subtracting the green and white, until I got a look I liked. The base was painted, and I added a little snow. Done. Thanks for looking.
  48. 1 point
    This is a kit by Good Fellas Resin, designed to pay tribute to an artwork by Max Dunbar. It's an adult, post apocalyptic, Charlie Brown and Snoopy - It was a well engineered kit, and a pleasure to build and paint. Thanks for looking.
  49. 1 point
    Nothing like a fascinating conversation where definitions are determined by individual perception. Noel, creating something from raw materials is modelmaking and it doesn't matter what the raw materials are or how you create the end creation. In fact, most if not all modelbuilders are also modelmakers. If that sounds strange, consider this: When you take a model kit and then superdetail parts of it using raw materials....or as close to raw materials as most of us get...you are both a modelbuilder and modelmaker. For example, take a model with a basic landing gear and no detail in the gear wells. Build the kit stock and you are a modelbuilder since you add nothing to the kit parts that were provided by the kit manufacturer. However, when you add detailing to that landing gear and/or gear wells by using minute pieces of wire, bits of scrap plastic, etc, then you are a modelmaker. Rusty uses skills developed in the creation of patterns from conventional material. That definitely makes him a scratchbuilder and modelmaker. But when he complements those learned skills with additional skills required for the use of new technology, you would say that he is not a modelmaker. I would suggest that a rethink is required due to the fact resin or whatever material is used by a 3D printer still qualifies as raw material because it has to be changed to create the desired form. And it would not know how to change into that form unless the creative person using the new technology had the scratchbuilding experience to create the program that the 3D printer used to instruct the raw material...resin or whatever...to become the final form. It's really not that different from me creating a pattern from wood of a desired part, then building a mold box, pouring RTV over it and...after it cures...removing the original pattern. Now I pour liquid resin into the RTV mold and when the resin hardens, I remove it. Result? I have a copy of the original pattern. I have combined my skill at scratchbuilding with those needed to use a different technology to create a part that can be reproduced repeatedly and sold to anyone who would like one. Now, here's where it gets to be fun. While, as I have described, Rusty and I would both have legitimate claims to being a modelmaker. But if someone buys that part and uses it as instructed to a kit they are building...without any other detail beyond the commercially manufactured part...they are a modelbuilder, but are NOT a modelmaker unless they add detail of some kind that begins with some type of scratchbuilding material. Bottom line is this: Creativity resides in the mind. Without that spark, all the technology in the world won't help you. It doesn't matter whether you use a block of wood, scalpel & sandpaper or a computer, CAD program & 3D printer. When you have that God given spark or talent, you are a modelbuilder and as soon as you start adding detail created from raw material, you're a modelmaker. You're also an artist, but that's a discussion for another day. Richard
  50. 1 point
    Ok, Rusty! You have simultaneously shamed me and challenged me. You are right. I need to get over the hump, screw up my courage and cast it. I have done a lot of vacu-forming but it has its limitations. I do want to get into resin casting and your metaphorical glove across the cheek may be just what was called for. Thanks- I needed that! Regards, Nick
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