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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    This was a bust I found on one of the announcement pages on FB. It's by Grimm. I tried looking for his info for this write up, but after an hr., I could find it. If I do I will make an edit and add it. The kit is one piece sculpt, very well done, in a gray resin - no bubbles, or seam marks. The figured reminded me of one of the villains in a Scooby-Doo cartoon, so decided to make him a ghost. Started with the black primer, and then was working on his navy colored coat. Then added a dark gray drybrush to the face, then added color to the barnicles, seeweed, and sweater. Another lighter gray - I want to make the glow coming from his face and OCL lighting on parts of the beard and coat. A little highlight to the coat and cap. I thought I took a pic of the ghostly glow, but didn't. The bluish,green glow color was made by drybrushing Citadel's Nihilakh Oxide where I needed it. I then highlighted that with V's Foundation White. I touch the Nihilakh Oxide and White to the rips in his coat to make it look like glow was coming out of them, and for a little added color. Thanks for looking.
  2. 2 points
    Model built for a Local Boy Scout Troop to Honor a local pilots service. P-38J from 394th FS of the 367 FG. Pilot perished in the channel on July 20 1944. Pilot was 1st Lt William L Mushrush from Steubenville OH Minecraft 1/48th P-38J with True Details interior, Eduard tires and Karaya gun barrels.The Aftermarket stuff way surpassed the Minicraft kit. Uschi Lines for antenna into a filament spring( Which you really can't see🙃) Alclad Polished Aluminum over Gloss Black Thanks for Looking Regards Bill D.
  3. 2 points
    Let me re-make a point here. Where is it written that a person MUST care if they win or lose at the contest? I know several people who attend, put the model on the table, and enjoy the rest of the convention without another thought about the contest. They enjoy looking at a roomful of models without it impacting their self-worth. Winning an award is gravy.
  4. 2 points
    Continuing forward I assembled the wings and detailed the main landing gear bays. I assembled the rear gun using the resin version and the photo etch gun sight and mounted the cannon gun sight above the dash. I then mount the wings. Found another issue when mounting them. The kit has spars to support the wings. I ended up cutting these off the kit assembly and attaching them to the fuselage. It was not difficult and the wings lined up very well to the fuselage. The engines came then. They were detail painted and then the copper intercooler for the intake was installed. The engines were then put into their cowls and mounted to the wings. The wings were then installed and the entire fuselage was painted with the base coat. Weathered and added the belly 37mm cannon and then the landing gear was painted and installed. Next up will be the camouflage painting. You can see all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-ki-45-toryu-nick/
  5. 1 point
    After reading the last few comments, I have changed my thinking on using a point system and judging for an open judging system. It would seem that a team of judges (as we have now) should make the "cut" (as we do now) and judge each model to determine what medal (if any) should be awarded. This would be an excellent and much faster way to judge all deserving models. This is how the forum should work and is why I suggest posting any proposal on the forum. The knowledge base is here.
  6. 1 point
    Well, here it is more than a month later and I finally had time to actually work on something; thanks to Hobby Day Weekend. Here's my latest. I tried getting further along on several models, starting with the Russian glider. I managed to get it sanded down now, eliminating a lot of seams and issues: I got the wings and wheels on this bird now: Later I added more Mr. Surfacer to the wing roots and sanded it down. This bird is ready for paint now. After that, I decided to get caught up on some armor. The MAN Pershing tractor-trailer was advanced a bit when I got the missile cradle done on the trailer: The missile is removable for painting. I also completed all the assembly on the tractor. This is now ready for paint: This is looking good so far: Now I wanted to advance my BMP-3 Early a little more. I finished up the wheels, sprockets and tracks as well as the interior: Then I completed most of the upper hull and snapped it down on top, then added the turret to see how it looks: Almost there... After this, I decided the M-1114 Humvee languished long enough. I pushed ahead on this one, finishing the main body and part of the roof: After dry fitting the roof, I saw where other issues were going to happen: Yeah, that's back on the box for now... Moving on, I got the wheels and sprockets on the Nagmachon in preparation for the tracks: Afterward, I added the doghouse after installing the armored glass to it. I also 'primered' the wheels in preparation for the vinyl tracks as recommended so the vinyl doesn't melt the wheels: After this is gonna be a bunch of photo-etch and then some paint, some weathering, and then more photo-etch screens all over this. Fun times ahead! For a little break, I decided to work more on my 1/24 scale Coke truck. First, I had some ejector pin marks to fill: I don't know how much of that will be able to be seen, but I still want it looking good enough. Later I added the fenders to the main floor of this truck. The hood piece is only dry-fit to this: Time to wait on that again.... After this, I wanted something simple, easy and fun. So, remember that Bobcat kit of the airfield support vehicles I got? I pulled that out and got the vehicles all built. They are snap together so I can disassemble them as needed to paint details. For now though, I just played! Here's the Fire Truck: Later I realized that the hose nozzle was not attached to the roof so I drilled the hole and added it. Here's the Fuel truck: Yes, there is glass for the windows; I just left it off for painting purposes. Here are the two together, you can see the nozzle on the roof of the fire truck now: After that was the baggage handling tractor and trailer with the generator trailer: Here's the full set all together: BTW, there's figures with this set too.... After all this, I decided it was time to move on and get my church built. Remember the cross I bought for this? Well, I decided to cement it directly to the original tiny cross so I could use the support for the new cross: Now this will fit well on the church: And it does look good! I like this very much: Later on I painted all the white trim around the windows, doors and ledges: Later I'll get the cornerstones and then try to figure out how to do the stone walls and roof. Well, that completes this small update. Maybe I'll be able to get more done later, but I'm thinking it might be another month! Regardless, enjoy the tour and thanks for looking in!
  7. 1 point
    THIS IS ONLY A SURVEY. Its only purpose is to find out which judging system the membership prefers and report our findings to the E-board. I want to publicly thank the E-board because they have supported this survey so well from day one. IF, IF, IF, it was decided by the E-board that IPMS/USA was going to change judging formats, that would only occur AFTER they determined the proposal was workable. If anyone out there wants to propose a medal system of judging, now is the time to start. Grab some folks who agree with you, put together a committee and get started. I WOULD SUGGEST working with the E-board though. If you can't sell them the proposal, you're wasting your time and I promise they will ask critical questions a proposal must answer. Moreover, any proposal doesn't have to be similar to past GSB events as Dave pointed out. If your proposal involves judging teams (or not) and non-numerical scoring (or not), and a different number of awards, so be it. The E-board is always open to new ideas, which is why I suggest working with them. Believe it or not, they want what's best for IPMS/USA and this survey provides information so they can make an informed decision. Everyone knows how fast rumors start and spread on the Internet. Put the proposal HERE on the Forum for transparency! Once the word gets out a proposal is in the works, transparency is your only defense against the rumor mill. Check out the number of views for the survey. You will see it has collected 3,503 views so far! That's by a healthy margin, the most views any subject has yet to collect. My point being, the ideas are here. The knowledgeable people who know our system are here. Most of the E-board is here. Not all suggestions are worth considering, but some sure will be. So the forum is the place to iron out any potential wrinkles before submitting a proposal. I promise you, IF, IF, IF, GSB wins the vote, someone out there will be putting together a proposal. Enough gassing on. I'll be at the nationals somewhere around the registration area with survey forms and copies of the survey for anyone not competing or somehow missed sending in your survey card. If you don't vote, your preference will never be known. I don't care what it is; VOTE! See you there. 😉
  8. 1 point
    There are a number of ways to do this, but: 1. The whole point of the system is that models are judged against an objective criteria instead of each other. This means that you can give out any number of any colour of medals per category (and yes, zero is a number). If you have four amazing gold-tier models in a category, you can give out four gold medals. 2. Since models aren't competing against each other and you can have multiple medals per category, you don't need as many categories in order to have like competing against like and a reasonable number of models per category. You could simply have a few categories, such as aircraft, armour, automotive, figures, etc. 3. One thing to consider is whether you want to judge every single model or a modeller's work within a category as a whole. By this, I mean if I enter eight models in a category, should I get one gold, five silvers, and two bronzes, or should I just get a single gold to represent my best work? There are pros and cons to each; the second way of doing both cuts down on award expenses and doesn't drag on the award ceremony, but it means that entrants have to put all their models within a category next to each other in a little group so you can tell at a glance which models all belong to the same person.
  9. 1 point
    My latest build: Godzilla from Mad Lab Models sculpted by the late Mike Parks. Hand finished in acrylics, artist inks and pigment powders. The goo on his foot is 5-minute epoxy painted in Tamiya clear red. Thanks for looking!
  10. 1 point
    Welcome Trevor! Glad you're here! Sure is nice to know that there are people like you doing what they can to keep hobby shops and plastic modeling alive. GIL
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Decals on and have started the weathering.
  13. 1 point
    " Perhaps they are afraid to admit they indulge in a so called "childish" hobby. " When I hear remarks like that, I tell them what Flagship Models made last year and the argument ends quickly.
  14. 1 point
    If the Vegas guys who bid are the same guys who did in Phoenix; I'd be a bit leery about attending that one. Still, it'll be interesting to see what happens. One day, I might even be able to make an Omaha convention.
  15. 1 point
    Just finished my latest piece. This is a vinyl kit of the 1972 Gigan suit from "Godzilla On Monster Island" a.k.a. "Godzilla Vs Gigan". Kit stands about 12" tall and was finished using acrylics and artist inks. Base was scratch built. Thanks for looking!
  16. 1 point
    This kit is based on the new trilogy of the Planet of the Apes, and it is an excellent story for how it all began. This is a simple kit of two parts the bust and the base. It is expertly sculpted by Mark Van Tine and casted by Paul Gill. It all starts with a black primer. The base looks like it's brickwork covered in stucco, so that the way I went. Thanks for looking.
  17. 1 point
    Finished the Trumpy Vigi this evening. The build was more enjoyable than I anticipated, with the fit being a little better than expected. I used the Nautilus laser-cut wood re-enforcement set for the interior, since Trumpeter designed it with the traditional left/right half fuselages, which leaves the top and bottom center seams weak if not beefed up somehow. I also used a Black Box resin interior I had for it. It fit almost like a glove. The only adjustment to it was to make it mesh properly with the Trumpeter nose gear well, which had to be removed from the kit cockpit structure. The wing fold is a kit option, as are the deflected leading and trailing edge flaps. One of the major drawbacks to the kit is a lack of intake trunking....Trumpeter provides two complete engines, but they just "sit" in the fuselage interior with nothing leading into each of the engine fronts. I left the engines out and added plastic card intake covers. That meant I had to do so cutting and fitting of the engines to install the rear halves of the engine exhausts so they'd fit within the Nautilus supports; but that wasn't difficult, and also allowed me to paint and add the burner cans at the end of the build. I used MM enamels for the gloss white and 36440 Gull Gray. The metal leading edges were done with Alclad. The weathering was done with a wash made from Mig pigments dissolved in water with a drop of dish washing soap. The panel lines were done with a brown colored pencil. I used some Two Bobs decals that came with the very first issue of Aerospace Modeler magazine back in 2005. The markings are for a Vigilante based out of Albany, Ga @1970; just a few years before I lived there. Rumor had it that the Vigilante pilots would take back to back tours of sea duty just to avoid going back to small town "Allbenny"....Anyway....on to the pics! Now I have the recce RA-5C to go along with my A-5A Viglante bomber conversion I did years ago. Questions, comments, and critiques welcome as always. Cheers! GIL
  18. 1 point
    Finished the Saturn Knight. Additional images can be found here: MK44 SaturnKnight And I got the family together for the weekend.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Here's a tiny resin kit from TD Cast. This was a 2015 Wonder Festival exclusive. Included a couple w.I.p. pics this time around. Once again hand finished in acrylics and artist inks with a scratch built base. Thanks for looking!
  21. 1 point
    I love the colors and the slit eyes but am I missing something? Shouldn't there be a string for that bow?
  22. 1 point
    Thank You for the suggestion, Gil. However, I think the taped-over guns flush with wing l.e. cannot be discarded altogether, as this was indeed how the early P-40D/Es were delivered to the front: source: The Hawk's Nest source: Replica In Scale This drawing also suggests that the guns (and shell ejector chutes) were covered with tape: source: Wings Palette Regards, Aleksandar
  23. 1 point
    Glad you're here! Make yourself at home and post some of your work. Cheers! GIL
  24. 1 point
    Another great start for a true masterpiece. Regards Christopher
  25. 1 point
    Noel (and all): I totally agree with you, and IPMSUSA has JUST begun to try to step us in the direction of de-emphasizing the contest. They've recently mandated that beginning this year and at all future conventions the host MUST have as many Display Only tables as their venue can provide. Of course that is AFTER they've taken care of the contest area first, so it will vary from show to show. Still, up til now, "display" has been only an occasional afterthought. Now IPMSUSA is going to encourage guys who don't want to compete to bring their stuff to display. Personally, I've reserved 2 display tables for ANYONE that'll be dedicated vacuform and resin models. There are two major differences here in the USA as compared to the UK and Telford. First and foremost, our Nats is the way it is because it started out with a competition format and has steadily grown from there. It's a VERY successful show, and the old adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" applies to a great degree. Would it be as big and successful with less of a contest here in the USA? Perhaps.....but I'm not sure any host wants to take that financial risk since the current format is a "money maker". In other words, we're sort of stuck with what we have because it's what we've always done and it works well! The second difference, as I mentioned before, is our vast distances to our shows. Anyone in the UK is a day's drive from Telford. Even a lot of Europe can be there in a single day's travel time WITHOUT having to hop on a plane. That makes the transport of models and stuff needed for booths much more practical. I consider the upcoming Chattanooga show to be an easy drive, and it'll be close to 7hrs. I plan to drive to the Texas show in 2020, and that will involve two days of driving and probably no less than 20hrs travel time. The rest of the shows involve airplanes where you're lucky if you can carry more than one model on, not to mention the hassle of TSA security checks! Only in the eastern US, or possibly southern CA, where there's a greater density of clubs per state, could we possibly have what Telford has with club booths...but with no tradition of doing that, the "clubs" never really consider it. Rick Jackson NAILED IT in his post above. Just bring your models, put them on the contest tables and go enjoy the show for the sake of the show and don't worry about winning or losing! GIL
  26. 1 point
    Ralph's comment to a certain extent may be passionate about how he feels. But has competition got to be the be all and end all for IPMS? Telford is an example of how competition and exhibition can go hand in hand without people feeling that they have to compete. Many Modellers are not bothered one jot about competition, yet the models they enjoy just exhibiting would do well in competition! There is room for both within IPMS. We have to ask ourselves if we are a modelling society promoting the hobby or a modelling competition society? Everyone was a novice to start with, and we should be reaching out to those people as well as more established hobbyists. I fear that IPMS is in danger of taking itself a bit too seriously at times.
  27. 1 point
    Another point ( I can’t let go of this thing!) all the kits either with trailers or on launchers are pretty good representation of the real thing. Dick’s model’s trailer does not look anything like that in any photo of the real Snark. I think the trailer does not belong with the missile. To solve the mystery, we need to identify the source of the trailer.
  28. 1 point
    I recently scored a kit with an MSRP of $169.99 for under $15 delivered. Guys from my model club in Louisville posted about some deep discounts on Dragon kits at Dragon USA. While the kit they were discussing was a 1/6th scale Panzer II normally $350 for $16 and discounted to $10 after using their Father's Day code, I searched other mistakenly discounted kits. I found the Dragon Iron Man Age of Ultron Mark XLIII kit listed for $10 and change; $7.18 after the 35% off discount code. With shipping, a whopping $14.82 delivered. Others tried to order the giant tank and one guy tried to order Iron Man, but their orders were cancelled. By the time they posted their orders were cancelled, I got a shipping notice. It arrived a two days later. By the time it arrived, the price had risen to $101.99. http://www.dragonusaonline.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=DRA38155
  29. 1 point
    And yet again, when some low performing modeler berates one of our members with the painfully monotonous myth of IPMS rivet counters, our knee- jerk reaction is to rend our garments, beat our breasts, and fall on our xacto knives in shame. People will believe what they want to believe whether it is written on a bathroom stall wall or on the idiotnet. Nothing we can say or do will change that! Nor should we change. All IPMS has done over the past 50 years is give credibility to a hobby that was not taken seriously, help plastic modelers increase their skills and enhance their enjoyment of the hobby, demand that kit manufacturers take this hobby as seriously as we do and organize competitions that are as scrupulously fair as human integrity will permit! We have NOTHING to be ashamed of or apologize for. My personal experience of the people such as those whose uninformed comments you had to endure is that they are poor modelers whose work will not stand up under the most cursory of assessments. What we should be ignoring is the whining of these cry-babies whose skill level is so low that they are simply not competitive when faced with the standards of excellence that IPMS encourages and rewards in it’s members. Let’s all show a little more spine! Why should we seek an association with such narrow, hateful little minds? Regards, Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge
  30. 1 point
    King Brian is a character from the 1959 Disney movie Darby O'Gill and the Little People. From IMDB.com : The kit was sculpted Joe Laudati and came in 4 parts - His head, body, cape and base. While the figure is cast in resin, the base was cast in plaster. My guess is to give the base some weight, and the figure is dancing, and all the weight is on one foot. Looking at King Brian's costume, the main colors are 3 different shades of green, and then an orange tan for the vest. The shoes looked black, but I thought a very dark brown worked as well. The coins (and crown) were painted gloss black in prep for painting them with Vallejo Metallics Gold. The face was next, and it was impossible for me to find out the actors eye color, so I just defaulted for brown. Most all the colors were painted and when I went to glue on the cape, there was some filling needed. So I broke out the Aves and blended it in. To attach Brian to the base I added a rod thru his heel into the base. To save some weight the cater made part of the base hollow. No worries - the rod will still hold. Thanks Joe for autographing this. For safety, I added a rare earth magnet to his sole and the base. A few tries and it worked fine... until I added the cape. With the cape in place, the balance was lost and wanted to tip over backward. I figured I needed another rod, and to play it safe I thought that I should fill the void in the base with resin, and then add that rod. Check back for the conclusion. Thanks for looking.
  31. 1 point
    I have to say that this movie is in my top ten of favs. The roll of Harry was played by Kevin Peter Hall, a 6'9" actor whose other character of note was The Predator. Our kit comes in 2 pieces- the bust and the base. Molded and casted by Gillman Productions, there is only the smallest of evidence of a seamline across the back of Harry's head. There were no obvious bubbles anywhere on the kit. On the bottom of the base, sculptor Mark Van Tine was kind enough to give me an autograph, along with a little illustration. 🙂 The only negative on the kit was the build in rod to hold the bust to the base somehow got curved backward. So it couldn't just sit without falling over backward. No big deal a brass tube/rod or wooden dowel easily solves the problem. I primed the bust in the tan Stynylrez primer, and then set out to paint the figure. While Harry shows a lot of gray hair, I started off, as usual, with a dark brown. In the pic you can also see I started the lighter first highlight. The teeth was painted with Army Painters Skeleton Bone. This is close to both V's Dark Sand, and Iraqi Sand - it falls in between actually so if one is too dark and the other too light I have my remedy. While that was drying I turned my attention to the base. I knew I wanted to paint the name with the multi color look and I found an example where they used just red and yellow. But first I painted the rock V Gray Black. Sculpted in the flat part there are some leaves, a fern and some twigs. Here you see the leaves and the fern painted. Turning back to Harry, I finished off the first highlight, and then turned to the eyes. All evidence said Harry's eyes were blue, so I started with an Azure circle for the irises. The lines of light and dark blue, and finally a black pupil completed the eyes. I also washed the mouth in Citadel's Reikland Fleshshade, and then highlighted in Ivory. In all the pics, Harry has quite the bright smile. This session, the most obvious change is all the gray hair Harry has. It was actually a surprise how much there was in the mustache area. Next I added a little more dimension to the exposed skin. IIRC I remember added two more levels of highlight. Then final step was attaching it to the base. Rather than go out and look for a brass/plastic rod, I filled the hole in the bottom of Harry with Aves, and then when dry drilled out both Harry and the base. The rod I had was superglued, and held in place until dry. Finally he was finished. Thanks for looking.
  32. 1 point
    My model is the Italeri 1/72 scale Fiat CR-32 Chirri." It represents an aircraft assigned to XXIII Grupo Caccia, Aviazione Legionaria. The unit was led by Lieutenant Colonel Andrea Zotti and based at Puig Moreno, Spain, June-July 1938. The unit formed part of the Italian contingent fighting for the Nationalist cause during the Spanish Civil War. I used the Osprey Fiat CR-32 Aces of the Spanish Civil War (Aircraft of the Aces 94) for inspiration; profile 28. I wanted to model Zotti's aircraft; he flew "3-4", but I only had the decals for "3-6". The model was built out-of-the-box except for the rigging. Took me 3-months to figure out I can't paint Italian camouflage with an airbrush freehand and another 3-months and a lot of Tamiya tape to manage that effort. I enjoyed the build; never worked harder to complete a model...
  33. 1 point
    Thanks for the clarification. He'll have to finish another!
  34. 1 point
    This mini has been in my pile so long, I don't remember where it came from, or even why I bought this. Hmm... :? He comes in two parts the dragon and the egg. I scratch built the base and rocks with foam, and extra long static grass for the nest. Thanks for looking.
  35. 1 point
    This is an approx 1/3rd scale kit I obtained from Mark Warthling. It comes in 9 parts - the head/body, the stone arm, 2 sets of horns (long and short - I chose the short), a base and two name plates. The arm, base and one of the name plates are in translucent resin in case you want to light the kit. Once again it was a case of me jumping into things before taking the start image, but you'll see the clear resin along the way. I started with a tan primer, glued the horns in and then painted the face red. Reddened the face, and painted the hair black - When it came to the arm, I looked around and it was no where to be found. I contacted Mark, and for a little fee he was able to get me another. How can something that big go missing? I have no idea... Here you can see the translucent hand. Anyway, in the background you may be able to see I added a darker brown shadow to parts of the jacket. What I did to highlight the black hair was to use a little blue in it. All shirt references showed it was black, so I mixed a little blue into that to compliment the hair. You can also see the translucent base and the arm with primer. I also painted the zipper steel, and the little emblem on the pull the new Molotow Chrome. That stuff is amazing. Next was tackling the Dark brown leather collar and straps. You can see in the background the arm got it's coat of red - While I thought of it, I painted in the eyes. Hellboy had yellow sclera, with a light brown iris, and then the black pupil. With the squint the model has I just left of the sclera color... I fixed up the coloring on his head and now I'm happy with it. Hellboy is now complete. I didn't mention the base, but being translucent it calls out to be lit. Never having done lighting, I left it open for lights down the road. What I did tho, was dremel out more material in the symbols, and then seeing a miniatures trick I got some matte Mod Podge and mixed it with black craft paint until it was *dark*, then I painted thickly on (avoiding the symbols) the base. Does well with light blocking. It was crazy how many images I went thru before I found an definite image of the emblem on his sleeve. Only found one. Thanks for looking.
  36. 1 point
    Here's a couple shot of my Billiken MechaGodzilla 2 kit. This is a vinyl kit that includes white metal parts for the "fingers". Once again hand finished in acrylics and Tamiya Weathering System palettes. Thanks for looking!
  37. 1 point
    Here's another recent bust just off the work table. verybody's favorite painter, Bob Ross. He's approx. 1/4 scale and done up with Vallejo paints. Over on the Resin Maniac's page on FB, they are having a Bob - Off. Anyne who bought one is urged to paint it up for the show. On tv Bob used a clear palette that was scuffed up to prevent glare from the TV lights. I saw a few guy's WIP and they all used gray for the palette, so I naturally had to go completely the other way and got to practice my wood grain at the same time. Thanks for looking.
  38. 1 point
    In the mood for another bust, I had Daenerys Targareon (sp?) sitting on the shelf for some time. Produced in white resin, she came in two parts - the bust/base, and a strand of hair. Cleanup was minimal, and any seam marks hidden was easily spotted and eliminated after a spray of primer. I started out with a base coat of Rose Beige for her skin - Her hair is almost white, so I base coated that with a coat of Beige to start. A highlight of Rose Beige + Light Skin tone. Thinking I found the costume that was sculpted, it looked like a blue, and the cape was blue on the outside and I light tan on the inside. Moving on I highlighted the hair with Ivory, added the dark brown eye brows, painted the eyeballs the same color and then painted the base a Basalt Gray. Her lips got a coat of Cavalry Brown, which is really a dark red brown color. I also speckled the base with a lighter gray for interest, and used V's Burnt Iron Metallics for the emblem. The inside of the cape got a beige highlight. I didn't want her cape and dress to be the same color, so I painted over the blue with a turquoise color from Army Painter. On the screen grab, there is a design that looks like lots of little arrowheads. The sculpt doesn't have that, but only ridged stripes. I added another layer of turquoise to them, and then over painted the stripes with a Pearlescent paint to create a little added dimension. Also her green eyes were painted in. You can't really tell but the strand of hair was also added. There was a gap, but some Aves filled the gap with nor problems. I sculpted the Aves to match the existing hair. I added a 3rd highlight of white to the top most part of the hair stands, and after looking it up, painted the dragon on the emblem a red color. Her bottom lip was painted Rose to brighten it. Then I tried something new, I used Vs Metallic Varnish to the lips and eyes. It went on a little thicker than the others and made the eyes look deeper. She was ready for her final matte coat. After a day, I looked at the bust and there was something wrong. She looked ... sweaty. I must have sprayed her with satin instead of matte. There was also something else with the skin tone. It was still too dark. I mixed Light skin tone with Ivory and gave a highlight to only the upper areas. That looked better. Then I made sure I sprayed a matte coat to seal it all in. Thanks for looking.
  39. 1 point
    Staying with the sculpts of John Dennett, I picked up his new release in the form of Ebeneezer Scrooge. This is the Alastair Sim portrayal from the 1951 film. The kit comes in just 2 parts ~ the bust and the base. The first decision was whether to do the figure in B&W or color. Despite the box art being in color the movie was in B&W. I spoke with the sculptor, who sent 2 colorized pics at the same time I found my own. This is the one I went with - Starting to add color - Then once again, I got into a groove painting the facial features and forgot to take WIP pics. I used a splatter technique on the base and then applied the woodland Scenics snow with a few layers of PVA. Thanks for looking.
  40. 1 point
    This one came from DcDevitt Studios exclusively for member of his Patreon page who opted for a certain level. Troy does some outstanding work. Anyway here he is. First is the raw resin. Thanks for looking.
  41. 1 point
    Nuts planet bust. mostly done in enamels. Dak
  42. 1 point
    Old figure I finally finished. Mostly painted with oils. Dak
  43. 1 point
    This model is another model from deep in the stash. I remember buying the model from the Buy and Sell section of a forum. The sculptor was Chris Lynch, and looking at Boba's size, I'm guessing it's around 1/10th scale. I have no further info on it. Even doing a web search, that title gets exactly 1 hit from a guy on a Star Wars Models website who had it listed on his "wants" page. It's not from one of the movies, but maybe a comic or some book? The kit came in about 10 parts. Boba's body and the bird; Boba's head, his two arms and rifle, the two sand people heads, a gun in a holster, some bag that had no apparent place to go, and the two parts of the birds restraint. It also came with a length of cord, and a length of "pleather". The resin was mostly in good shape, but it did need a little work. I didn't think to take a pic before starting, but here we are with most of the parts attached - The bird was tackled first. With it supposedly from Tatooine, I figured it was to blend into a sandy, rocky background. So the bird was made up of browns and other neutral colors. I figured the model needed a splash of color, so blue was added to the bird's crest and around his eyes. This color choice will come in handy later. The ground work is just a dark sand and and an orange ocher Next turning my attention to Boba, I started filling in the colors that I remembered. There was a few times where I had to look up exactly what color went where. At this point I also painted in the Sand People heads with Iraqi Sand and White Aluminum for the metal parts. Around their mouth was a brown leather color and the bottom of the mouth looked really dark. I ended up painting it a German Gray. The blaster was painted with VMC Gunmetal, and then highlighted lightly in silver. The silver was also used to create the scratches around his armor. It was here I thought the bird needed a little more color, so I took the Cavalry Red I used for his gauntlets, and highlighted the birds feathers. This is where I left it for the day. A few days later I was back and it was time to finish up Boba. The first thing to do was paint the backpack. Here's where a little indecision came in. He seems to have changed his uniform between ESB and ROTJ. In ESB his back pack was mostly green (also green gauntlets), but in ROTJ the backpack was more colorful including an ocher color, a red, and even blue! So to harmonize the model; the red is the same color as the gauntlets, and I reduced the saturation of the blue by adding black, and then I lightened it by adding the gray from his jumpsuit. While this was drying, I glued in the restraints to the birds collar. When the CA on that dried, I wrapped the pleather around the collar, and then according to the line diagram that came with the kit, around the saddle horn and back to the other part of the collar. I dipped the cord in Citadel's Agrax Earthshade, glued it in loops and then just hung it around the Sand People heads. This was another model I could fiddle with forever, so instead I called this one done. Thanks for looking.
  44. 1 point
    This little figure has been unbuilt on my shelf seemingly forever. It's Freebooter's Bad Fairy. I took one of my orchid mounts where the plant unfortunately died, and used it as a "nest" for the fairy. Everything was painted with Vallejo acrylics - except for the Wings where I used Green Stuff World's Chameleon Colors. Thanks for looking.
  45. 1 point
    http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-by-gary-kerr/ http://culttvman.com/main/a-modelers-guide-to-painting-the-starship-enterprise-pt2-by-gary-kerr/
  46. 1 point
    Seems I'm a broken record in this area with my Airfix locomotives. I get one a year and do them. Nice kits of interesting subjects and they are something different to build. This one is of a Battle of Britain Class locomotive used in the 50's and 60's. Each engine was named after a fighter base, or ace or something linked to the Battle of Britain. This one is the Biggin Hill, a fighter base around London. One quirk is that the name plate on the engine side should have an RAF blue background and not red. Other releases of the same kit have the blue, but I got 'lucky' and go the wrong color. The decals were old and yellow, so they spent sometime in a sunny window and then a coat of gloss coat to keep them from shattering.
  47. 1 point
    This model has been sitting on my desk for a while now about 99% done. Lets have a look. The first thing that's noticed is the base that's on the website is quite a bit different than what you get. I don't know (and didn't think to ask) if it was a mistake on Aradia's part or what. Anyway Posideon just sits on this little ledge of coral. No matter I can model a base. The parts are shown below. On the website you had a choice of either a human type face or a sort of fish mask (arrow). I liked the mask, but in person IMO I felt it made him look like he had a tiny head. This is the problem for me when a model sits. You think you've taken pics that you didn't. But basically the skin was done in a Flesh, and washed with Citadels Reikland Fleshshade. Then the fish part was done in a blue, highlighted with a turquoise with some pearlizing craft paint for the wet look sparkle. The base is simply Sculpt -a-Mould over some foam "boulders. Spray with a tan and then the same turquoise with the pearl. Finally I wanted some sort of backdrop for him. I went looking for some pieces of fan coral at the pet stores. But no good. I guess real coral decorations are taboo now. I found some artificial stuff that looked good in the pics and real life from a distance. But it's kind of cheesy look close up. I sprayed that with white primer and then some blue mixed with the pearl. Done. Thanks for looking.
  48. 1 point
    This is one of the Soda Pop Miniatures, Maid Service, part of the Takoashi University game series. Thanks!
  49. 1 point
    Latest finished piece.
  50. 1 point
    A 1/72 LST would display all that armor nicely.
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