Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Yesterday
  2. Yes, I am a great believer in the get involved concept. I have seen many whine and complain, but never bother to step up and help out. That is part of what I mean by enthusiastic good intentions. Now that I am retired, I think I may run in the next election for president. Dak
  3. Well said David! 👍 Some time ago I tried my shot at running for President, but lost. 😭 You're right. The only way things will change is to have an E-board that shares common goals. My (losing) strategy at the time was to have two folks run with me to hopefully get elected. Unfortunately, the membership seems to be happy with the "If the house isn't on fire, and the Journals get to us on time, let's keep the status quo." Hopefully a group of like minded folks with similar goals will run and affect real change. Good luck.
  4. Wow! this has been such fun. Reading all the things - wanting change in the National Convention & Contest, reading how folks have left the Society over the years for one thing or another, and realizing that everyone has an opinion - or at least the 18 to 20 members that have taken the time to get involved in the conversation on this thread. It all comes down to one thing - get involved, period. It is the only way change can be done. If you look at the ballot in the May/June 2019 issue (not the July/August 2019 issue as printed on the cover of the latest issue) you will find that each office being elected is unopposed! Why is that? Because we all want our ideas used but we don't want to get involved we want someone else to make the decision so we can complain! You want to change the system? Then do something about it - run for National Office. No I have never been an elected officer at the National level but I did served on the IPMS/USA Executive Board for almost 17 years. And, things have not changed in the years since I left my position on the E-Board. Have a nice day and build a model. David Von Almen, Gentleman Modeler (now in the islands)
  5. Ralph, thanks for explaining AMPS and Jaxcon for me. In the UK the AMPS equivalent is the MAFVA (Miniature Armoured Fighting Vehicle Association) that is just about modelling AFV's and not full size vehicle preservation. Naturally MAFVA members would also be interested in the preservation of full size vehicles and have many contacts within museums and AFV preservation groups although not directly involved with preservation as an association.
  6. Just finished the Hobby Boss kit while waiting for leave for the National. The figure is from Platoon. Dak
  7. Last week
  8. Dakimbrell

    Pilot and Dog

    Kellerkind Miniaturen RFC pilot playing with his puppy. Dak
  9. I'll support Privateer1533's wish for 1/48 scale kits of the HH-3 (USAF and USCG versions) and a CH-54A/B. I might add a decent CH/HH-53 (Air Force version) to that list.
  10. We have to downsize our household and, as a result, I've decided to dispose of my back issues of the IPMS Quarterly, Update and Journal. I have the Quarterlies/Updates going back to Volume 7 (two Quarterlies published in 1972) up through the current issue of the Journal. There are too many to list them individually but if there is a particular year/volume you're interested in, please e-mail me directly at robbelothe@aol.com and make a reasonable offer. I'll ship them to you via your choice of carriers at cost. Of course, this is a "first come, first served" offer. Thanks.
  11. I've built a number of models from this fledgling company, and must state one basic observation: they provide some fascinating subjects. I probably don't need to go into a lot of historical background regarding the revolutionary Arado Ar234, except to say that it was the world's first jet bomber and a truly amazing aircraft in many ways. I became fascinated with it during my teens when I built the venerable Lindberg kit, enthralled by the design. Leave it to Fly to come up with not one, but several different configurations of this pivotal aircraft in my favorite scale, with more to come. I checked up on the Fly internet site and was not at all surprised to see that the two earlier releases are now sold out. Get them while you can! read more View the full article
  12. Thanks Mark! I'd hate to see the aftermath of their visit to the Thomas Kinkade Studios! Hey Phil - Thanks man!
  13. The new Airfix P-40B is an excellent example of the iconic fighter made famous by the Flying Tigers. The kit is nice but there are some things in the cockpit that need to be 'fixed'. Aires has released this new cockpit set for the kit. Inside the typical Aires blister pack are 21 pieces molded in light grey resin. My example was flawless despite damage to the blister package. The set also has a small fret of photoetch that includes the instrument panel and seatbelts. A film of acetate is also provided for the instruments. This set will require some thinning of the sidewalls to get it to fit properly. But once you get past that, the set fits together simply and easily. The parts breakdown is very similar to the kit breakdown. The pour stubs are easy enough to remove. read more View the full article
  14. Hi. I'm looking to trade for a complete and unstarted 1/35 IBG Models KTO Rosomak APC "The Green Devil" Model Kit (35032). I have tons of armor kits, accessories and books to trade. I also have some aircraft and Sci-Fi items as well. US only due to high shipping costs. Contact me at patrix1@sbcglobal.net. Thanks. Patrick Keenan Mundelein, IL
  15. Thanks Gil for the very detailed reply.
  16. I totally agree with the Tamiya Fine White primer as a good starter for any light color paint overcoat. Another need is to then "polish" that primer coat a bit. It usually has a very "baby powder smooth" finish when correctly applied, but I recommend using either a very fine (1000grit or higher) sand paper, or very coarse paper towel (if no fine sand paper is at hand), in order to have a nearly glass smooth surface to apply your gloss paint to. In my experience, as nice as the TFWP is, it's a "dull white", and not a bright white color, which is what you need for an airliner. If you normally use enamels or lacquers, I recommend Model Master Gloss White, thinned with lacquer thinner, and misted on in a few fine coats. It's a much brighter white, which I believe you'll see as soon as you apply it over the primer white finish. Decals can be applied directly over the gloss white, and then you can then apply the clear gloss of your choice to seal them and add a bit more shine. Others who use acrylics can recommend a good acrylic gloss white to use, but the point I'm trying to drive home is that as nice as the Tamiya Fine White primer is, it is not as bright a white as a gloss white paint, especially for airliner liveries. Hope this helps! GIL
  17. IPMS/USA thanks a new supplier, DN models, for supporting the IPMS USA reviewer corps with one more of their prolific releases. I have only recently been selectively purchasing masking sets, and am finding them almost exclusively a must-use item. And of course, thanks to IPMS leadership for sending it to me to be reviewed. One of the benefits of procrastinating at assembling a kit is occasionally something comes along which makes it easy to move said kit up in the building queue. In this case, the availability of DN models masking sets to IPMS was an epiphany to me: These addressed the dread I had of painting the final B-2 model scheme. Even though B-2 fleet has had a change in RAM (Radar Absorbing Material) read more View the full article
  18. Hi Rick, I'll do automotive if no one has spoken for it yet. My contact info is Hamy3@aol.com for e mail, and 203 461 0534 for my cell. Give me a call in the next few days to work out the details of what's set up in terms of image transfer and such. Doug
  19. Thank you Nicholas, and Michael.
  20. Doug

    Do you have a preference as to which class to focus on?



  21. Revell's big Saturn-V with a few minor mods. Botched it at age ten; still a challenging kit. Still got my scrapbook, too.
  22. The weekly update on the J-35 Draken has the build up and detail of the ejection seat. This is all resin and photo etch details. I found some reference photos of the seat and copied the detail as best as I could. After being painted I added some scratch built details then moved on to adding the photo etch details and seat belts. The seat was installed into the cockpit tub and I started painting the aluminum center and the gray bottom. Moving to the top I painted the base coat of the camouflage and the tail. Finally the aluminum leading edges were painted. I also realized the tail required a wire to be added as this detail is not included in the kit. The aircraft is now ready for decals and weathering. Check out all the build photos from start to finish in the build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-j-35-draken/
  23. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, White. Use from the spray can or decant for airbrush use. When it's fully cured, polish it to a smooth, satin finish. Apply decals, then a final semi-gloss or gloss coat.
  24. What exactly do you need the letters and numbers for? There are actually a lot of letter and number sheets available but the style or font, if you will, varies. RAF differs from U.S. for example. British aircraft civil codes have a different style than military. Nick Filippone '
  25. The CF-188A Hornet, more commonly known as the CF-18, is a multi-role fighter that first flew with the Royal Canadian Air Force in 1977. It was chosen as a replacement for the CF-101 Voodoo and CF-104 Starfighter. The CF-188s were upgraded through two incremental Modernization Programs, with a new radar and avionics from the F/A-18C/D as well as a new targeting pod. This new kit from Kinetic is the latest special edition of the CF-188 Hornet and it covers the commemorative scheme for 20 years of service with the RCAF. read more View the full article
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...