Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Today
  3. Thanks Peter for the input. Problem solved. Christopher
  4. Interesting pieces. The paper look much better than the metal. I would like to add a comment trying to not be critical. I see a lot of palm trees in south pacific dioramas and most often they show the trees shaped like an umbrella. The real deals actually have a shape more like a dandy lion, often with dead palm fronds hanging under the green fronds. The classic umbrella shape only seems to happen in areas where the trees are groomed for a garden.
  5. I wanted to pass this along to the group, for anyone that was interested . After looking at the Palm Tree in my Corsair diorama, I wanted to change out the Palm Leaves with something more realistic. The trunk was ok, but the Metal leaves looked hideous. I picked up J‘s Work paper plant leaves at my local hobby store . The most realistic I’ve ever seen. After cutting all the metal leaves off, I took a hot glue gun, and applied a good size blob of glue on top of the trunk to attach some green model railroad lichen. By accident, this blob of glue would act as an attachment point for each leaf. Because the leaves drooped so much without support, I added floral wire to the back of each leaf. The leaves could be formed easily once the wire was attached. I then simply inserted each leaf into the top. Christopher
  6. Yesterday
  7. I am looking for a 1/350 USS Ohio Submarine kit. I believe Dragon and Italeri both did one (same mold?) Please contact me if you have one you are willing to part with. Thanks!
  8. I picked up one of these from the Small Shop and I like it. It allows me to get very close cuts so I don't have much of a nub to remove. For what nubs I do have, I generally use a diamond file and in a few swipes it's clean. If the part is especially small or hard to file, I'll put the part in a parts bender on the flat side and clamp it down so it doesn't !!PING!! and get eaten by the carpet monster. Just my two pennies!
  9. FWIW, I do the same. Cut them off with a sharp knife, use smooth pliers if the part is small and sand the nub off Dave
  10. Last week
  11. Nicolas, For me it depends on the piece in question. When dealing with the really small stuff, the object is to not have a stub to trim. If I can gain access to the desired part without damaging anything, a pair of opthomology scissors does a great job. They also are useful for trimming pieces you can actually hold that have stubs that need trimming. Another approach is to hold the fret down on a hard surface such as a piece of ceramic tile, then use a new blade to cut the stub next to the part. Result? No stub. Be sure to cover at least part of the desired piece with your thumb or finger so it doesn't fly off into never never land when you cut it free. Another possibility is to put the fret down onto a piece of low tack tape, sticky side up, then cut close to the part so that there's no stub. Keep in mind that another factor is that all photoetch isn't the same thickness or the same material, so you will have to adjust your approach accordingly. Hope some of this helps. Richard
  12. I'll do that as soon as possible, some other irons are in the fire right now. I'll get back!
  13. The Accurate Miniatures F-6B that I posted as a WIP sometime ago is almost ready for color so I started on the Tamiya P-51D since it's too hot most of the day to do any airbrushing. I'm using the Eduard PE set that includes the fuselage details. Photo 1 is the left fuselage half. Photo 2 is the right fuselage half. Photo 3 is the instrument panel which includes 5 pieces of PE. Photo 4 is the cockpit floor/battery rack. I've been gluing the PE in place with Ammo by MIG PVA glue except the curved piece on the left side of the cockpit where I used CA. Glued the floor end & let it dry for an hour. Then put a drop of CA on the top section & held it in place for a couple minutes. A question for folks like Gil Hodges or Richard Marmo. How do you remove the stub from PE parts that you've trimmed off the sheet? I've been clipping them off using a small Swiss Army knife scissors then sanding the stubs off with an 800 grit sanding stick. I'm interested in knowing if anybody has a better method. Some of the pieces are extremely small.
  14. Greetings Mike, So far, with regards to the banquet, my discussions with the Embassy Suites General Manager have focused appropriate seat spacing within the banquet room. This means perhaps less people per round table. However, let me stress that as of right now these are all just discussions as we are waiting to see what the exact restrictions are come the time of the convention. We'll make a final decision about 30 days out...which is less than a month from now. A "Food and Drink Minimum" is part of the contract with the hotel that we are going to attempt to meet but given the COVID-19 situation both myself and GM have agreed to make something work. No exact details on this yet...just discussions. Restrictions in-place by the state of Texas are driving our final decisions...and these restrictions are changing (i.e., opening up) almost weekly. -Len
  15. Great work and the camouflage adds the the uniqueness. At first I did not realize it was small scale.
  16. Beautiful job! That is one magnificent looking model. Way to go man!
  17. Oh man, I am totally in agreement here! I should have finished at least fifteen models by now but I've only finished one! Your Mustang is coming along well and definitely does look like an airplane. I love it. Nice paint work so far.
  18. I'm also looking forward to this one! I can't wait to be able to attend!
  19. I have also PM'd you about the paints and brushes. Please let me know the status of those items. Thanks!
  20. Welcome Cameron! Those are some outstanding 'calling cards' you've got there! You work is most welcome here. You are surely going to enjoy your first Nationals. I can't get enough of them myself; I only wish I could go to San Marcos. Welcome once again, feel free to look around, you're gonna fit right in!
  21. The ”Snoopy Sniper” has now been finished. With the canopy detailed, painted and installed the aircraft is now ready for the display shelf. One thing I needed to do also was to change the fins n the back of the wing tip tanks. I had the long fin pointing out and the long fin points in. With careful surgery I was able to correct this. As for the kit itself, aside from the dash issue it went very well. The Caracal decals were great. They went on very well with no problems. I used Mission Models paint for the scheme. The fit of the kit is good. You will need to pay attention to the left wing. I had to do a slight trim on the slot to move the wing to the correct angle. It seems to angle down slightly more. Even after trimming the wing root lines up with the fuselage very well. Thanks for following along. You can see all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-104c-starfighter-snoopy-sniper-1966/
  22. Hi Len, Regarding the banquet, is there a Plan B if buffets are still on the "not recommended" list of activities? Mike
  23. Hi David. Thanks for your reply; to answer your question, no, I didn't prime the body. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. Maybe I should be more consistent if I expect to get consistent results!
  24. Registered, Flights Booked and ready Good Luck all...Look forward to Event Cheers Bill
  25. Very nice work on a very unusual subject, Ron.
  26. As it stands right now, True North will become my Model Master enamel replacement with Tru-Color for pre-thinned solvent based paint and various acrylic brands when I can't get the job done any other way...mainly flesh/skin tones and occasional weathering colors. BTW, Ed, I still have some of the square Testors paint that I brought with me from El Paso back in1961 that are still good. And some Pactra Scale Flats that are also still good. You don't get that kind of shelf like any more!
  27. I am transitioning from Model Master also. I have started using Tru-color. I recently used one of their metallic colours ( applied over their gloss black). Far and away the best natural metal finish I have ever achieved. And their service is excellent . Nick
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...