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  2. Very nest looking work! In fact, being Russian...it may be neater and nicer that they actually install! Looking forward to more, comrade! Gil
  3. Wow! That's some sharp looking work! Glad to have you here on the forums with is. Make yourself at home! Gil
  4. Today
  5. Thanks to both for the replies. This model has been quite a challenge and I want to do it justice as best I can. It quite often has challenged my patience but its a wonderful model. Stuart
  6. Yesterday
  7. Yeah, wooden toothpick is one of the best. I also take a Popsicle stick and carve it into a chisel edge to do the same thing. Either way works fantastic.
  8. Impressive work! Looks like I can just sit in the cockpit and start flipping switches.
  9. Yes, the improvements do look much better and more natural! Excellent work.
  10. Wonderful - i was afraid there would be more trouble. Thanks so much! Stuart
  11. It really depends upon whether you want to emulate the filming model or the appearance of the ship on screen. The TOS entrprise went through several iterations between the pilot and the following three seasons, very different paint schemes. There's a great set of videos on YouTube on the Smithsonian restoration of the filming model and the considerations they took to make it look right. Toss in the movie versions and you have a lot of variety! I really like the iridescent, sparkly white paint on the various movie's Federation ships. The nice thing is that there's almost as much 'reference' material on Star Trek as there is on our military subjects! Now I have to go watch a couple episodes . . . 😁
  12. Hello group. I am building the 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire. I cut out and attached all of the masking before painting the frames on the clear canopy parts. Of course, being a newbie I guess I was not perfect and paint leaked under the masking and onto the “glass”. Can someone help with the best way to remove the unwanted paint without damaging the canopy? Stuart
  13. This next build I will be building the 1/48 Revell Mi-24D HIND Helicopter. For detailing I am using the Pavla Models resin cockpit set and the Master Model 12.7 machine gun and DUAS Probe set. For the scheme I will be using Caracal’s “Last Hinds of NATO” (#48104) decal set for the Polish Air Force in 2014 for the Mi-24D. Starting with the instrument panel, the resin panel has many fine details. This required some very tedious detail painting of the gauges, knobs, and switches. Then the same goes for the many side panels in the cockpit tub for the two positions.. The seats were then detail painted and installed. The resin cockpit as well as the kit fuselage required some minor trimming and sanding to fit together. The only tricky part is the floor of the cockpit to the nose gear bay. The top of the gear bay needed to be sanded a little to get it to fit with the cockpit. The nose gun turret came next. The barrels of the gun in the Master Model kit are resin and brass parts. They require you to trim the kit barrels off. I decided to wait until the end of the build to install the new barrels to avoid accidentally breaking them off while other work was being done. Next came detailing the crew area. I used some bare wire for the hand holds and different colored sleeved wires for cabling base on the reference photos. I also added some D-rings on the floor that were from my photo etch extras. Lastly I made a decal for the first aid box. Next week I will be the detailing of the fuselage and engine parts so the fuselage can be assembled together. You can see more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-mi-24-hind-helicopter/
  14. Luvspinball

    Plastic Sails

    I would do the paper sails, but leave the main and fore lower yards with sails furled. This will allow you all your hard work on the deck, and makes it a touch easier to get to all the belay pins for the running rigging. You might also try looking at HiS Models (www.hismodel.com). Radimer has a FANTASTIC set of hand sewn sails that he sells. https://www.hismodel.com/articles-category-15 Bob
  15. Absolutely glue them together first. You will notice that the deck surface does not line up perfectly. By gluing them together ahead of time, you can add some reinforcements under the deck using stock styrene. This will really firm up the deck and allows you to get everything even. And yes, you can still spread the hull apart enough to get it in. I did a complete wooden deck on a single sheet of styrene which was popped in and out several times to check for fit and lighting placement (yes, I lit the gun deck with LEDs). To slide the glued up deck in, start by putting the bow section in about 4 to 5 inches back - about where the opening in the gunwales starts. As you spread the deck apart aft, just continue to slide the deck forward until it meets the bow. In reality, getting the gun deck in is MUCH harder than the spar deck. All of my hints and complete build (thus far) are on the FineScale Modeler site under "Luvspinball." Bob
  16. Last week
  17. Thanks Peter for the input. Problem solved. Christopher
  18. Interesting pieces. The paper look much better than the metal. I would like to add a comment trying to not be critical. I see a lot of palm trees in south pacific dioramas and most often they show the trees shaped like an umbrella. The real deals actually have a shape more like a dandy lion, often with dead palm fronds hanging under the green fronds. The classic umbrella shape only seems to happen in areas where the trees are groomed for a garden.
  19. I wanted to pass this along to the group, for anyone that was interested . After looking at the Palm Tree in my Corsair diorama, I wanted to change out the Palm Leaves with something more realistic. The trunk was ok, but the Metal leaves looked hideous. I picked up J‘s Work paper plant leaves at my local hobby store . The most realistic I’ve ever seen. After cutting all the metal leaves off, I took a hot glue gun, and applied a good size blob of glue on top of the trunk to attach some green model railroad lichen. By accident, this blob of glue would act as an attachment point for each leaf. Because the leaves drooped so much without support, I added floral wire to the back of each leaf. The leaves could be formed easily once the wire was attached. I then simply inserted each leaf into the top. Christopher
  20. I am looking for a 1/350 USS Ohio Submarine kit. I believe Dragon and Italeri both did one (same mold?) Please contact me if you have one you are willing to part with. Thanks!
  21. I picked up one of these from the Small Shop and I like it. It allows me to get very close cuts so I don't have much of a nub to remove. For what nubs I do have, I generally use a diamond file and in a few swipes it's clean. If the part is especially small or hard to file, I'll put the part in a parts bender on the flat side and clamp it down so it doesn't !!PING!! and get eaten by the carpet monster. Just my two pennies!
  22. FWIW, I do the same. Cut them off with a sharp knife, use smooth pliers if the part is small and sand the nub off Dave
  23. Nicolas, For me it depends on the piece in question. When dealing with the really small stuff, the object is to not have a stub to trim. If I can gain access to the desired part without damaging anything, a pair of opthomology scissors does a great job. They also are useful for trimming pieces you can actually hold that have stubs that need trimming. Another approach is to hold the fret down on a hard surface such as a piece of ceramic tile, then use a new blade to cut the stub next to the part. Result? No stub. Be sure to cover at least part of the desired piece with your thumb or finger so it doesn't fly off into never never land when you cut it free. Another possibility is to put the fret down onto a piece of low tack tape, sticky side up, then cut close to the part so that there's no stub. Keep in mind that another factor is that all photoetch isn't the same thickness or the same material, so you will have to adjust your approach accordingly. Hope some of this helps. Richard
  24. I'll do that as soon as possible, some other irons are in the fire right now. I'll get back!
  25. The Accurate Miniatures F-6B that I posted as a WIP sometime ago is almost ready for color so I started on the Tamiya P-51D since it's too hot most of the day to do any airbrushing. I'm using the Eduard PE set that includes the fuselage details. Photo 1 is the left fuselage half. Photo 2 is the right fuselage half. Photo 3 is the instrument panel which includes 5 pieces of PE. Photo 4 is the cockpit floor/battery rack. I've been gluing the PE in place with Ammo by MIG PVA glue except the curved piece on the left side of the cockpit where I used CA. Glued the floor end & let it dry for an hour. Then put a drop of CA on the top section & held it in place for a couple minutes. A question for folks like Gil Hodges or Richard Marmo. How do you remove the stub from PE parts that you've trimmed off the sheet? I've been clipping them off using a small Swiss Army knife scissors then sanding the stubs off with an 800 grit sanding stick. I'm interested in knowing if anybody has a better method. Some of the pieces are extremely small.
  26. Greetings Mike, So far, with regards to the banquet, my discussions with the Embassy Suites General Manager have focused appropriate seat spacing within the banquet room. This means perhaps less people per round table. However, let me stress that as of right now these are all just discussions as we are waiting to see what the exact restrictions are come the time of the convention. We'll make a final decision about 30 days out...which is less than a month from now. A "Food and Drink Minimum" is part of the contract with the hotel that we are going to attempt to meet but given the COVID-19 situation both myself and GM have agreed to make something work. No exact details on this yet...just discussions. Restrictions in-place by the state of Texas are driving our final decisions...and these restrictions are changing (i.e., opening up) almost weekly. -Len
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