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To be honest, I thought that in this day & age of 3D printing, there would be a CAD file somewhere....
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Review Author: Bill Kluge Casemate Publishers The Guild of Aviation Artists, which traces its origins back through several former artists organizations - the Kronfeld Aviation Art Society, the Industrial Painters Group, and the Society of Aviation Artists emerged in 1971 as the repository for the majority of Britain's aviation artistic talent, and in July of that year held its inaugural exhibition of 95 paintings entitled "Flight Through the Ages". The Guild has presented an exhibition every year since then, at times encompassing over 400 paintings from its members, now numbering over 350. The Flight Through the Ages anniversary collection showcases some 200 works of art, culled from the thousands of paintings selected to hang in the 50 years of the Guilds exhibitions, representing a variety of styles and mediums. The chapters are arranged chronologically, beginning with early aviation, balloons and airships, progressing through the First World War, aviation's Golden Age of the 1920s and 30s, World War II, the jet age, Cold War, and the new millennium. Subsequent chapters highlight commercial and civil aviation, airshows, museums, helicopters, and gliders. The last chapters showcase some of the guild member's portrait work and finally, artist Chris French illustrates a step-by-step lesson in creating an aviation painting. Nearly all the images are in color and thankfully, each is accorded a full 8 1/2 by 11 page. None are split by the book's gutter. While just about every aviation artist tries to represent their aircraft subject as accurately as their skill allows, that hardly means that this is a collection of photo-realistic renderings. Far from it. The artists depict the thrill, speed and drama of aviation realistically, graphically and impressionistically. They use oils, watercolors, gouache, acrylic, pencils, pastels, ink, and crayon, alone and in combination. Although most aircraft subjects are shown in their natural element, many are depicted surrounded by crews, maintainers, passengers, onlookers and even animals native to the environment they happen to be in. As one might expect of a British art organization, there are plenty of depictions of Spitfires, Hurricanes ,Lancasters and Lightnings. But there are also good number of Fortresses, Dakotas, 747s and F-35s. However, some of the most striking paintings are of non-military subjects - the Golden Age and commercial aircraft. Truly breathtaking (oh, if Chris French's gorgeous back cover de Havilland Comet had only been given its own page on the inside!). So what, you may ask, is the value of this book to the modeler? Inspiration, pure and simple. Much as the best model box top illustrations drew us in to modeling and put ideas in our heads of dogfights and screaming jets back in the day, this book provides a luscious ready reference of many of aviation's most beautiful creations, each in a moment in time that draws us into its story. These paintings by artists like Frank Wooton, Michael Turner, and Wilfred Hardy are inspirational in the same way as John Steele's, Jack Leynnwood's, and Roy Cross's box top art was decades ago. It puts you there and awakens the interest. And they're all in one handy place. This is a beautiful volume, and I greatly appreciate Casemate Publishers providing the review copy, and IPMS allowing me to write about it. View the full article -
Review Author: Michael Novosad AOA Decals This decal sheet provides the extensive F-4 Phantom airframe data (including panel numbers/labels) for either an F-4B or F-4J. The airframe data provided is the painted (open stencil) type of markings commonly seen in the mid/late 1960's into the early 1970's on reworked USN/USMC F-4B and F-4J Phantoms (illustration shows the F-4J but the F-4B specific markings are provided). Note that this is not the original new factory printed (full letter) type of airframe data - check subject for which type of airframe data was applied for a specific F-4. Decal Sheet Contents Two sheets of decals are included in the large zip-lock bag. The national insignia is provided on the smaller (nominal 4" by 4") sheet and the stencils and other markings are on the larger ( nominal 9 1/2" by 8") sheet. Each stencil is printed individually with minimal carrier film. Also included are three, double-sided, full color drawings to help placing all the stencil decals. Each stencil decal is numbered while the location drawings have the decal number noted. Decals include placards for the landing gear, speed brakes, speed brake wells, auxiliary air doors, wing external fuel tanks, and main and nose gear doors. Markings for all pylons, bomb adapter racks (inboard and outboard pylon types), and LAU-7 rail markings are also included. Several notes address marking differences between the B and J versions. These decals will take several sessions to place. I really like the look of stencils on my aircraft models, even though the application can be a very time-consuming process I feel the effort is well worth it, and in the end it is time well spent. I built one Academy F-4 Phantom a few years ago and the kit included some stencils. The AOA sheet has many more. Whenever I bring a model to our local club meetings that has stencils I often receive positive comments on the model's appearance. Conclusion Although the product literature shows this set to be for the Academy Phantom, I plan to use it on a Hasegawa F-4J that I acquired as a gift from a good friend a few years back. The Hasegawa decals do include some stencils, but not the scope provided by the AOA sheet. The Hasegawa kit decals also have a much more glossy appearance than the AOA set. You will need to enjoy adding decals, many decals, to your models to appreciate this set. Because of the effort involved it may not be to the liking of some, but for those of us who are willing to invest the time and effort in adding realism to the model, this is the decal set for you. Several nights of effort will be required to place all the decals and marking. This is a high quality set of decals, and will be money well spent. If purchased on-line shipping in the States is included in the cost of the decals. Very highly recommended. I wish to thank AOA Decals and IPMS USA for the opportunity to review this set of decals. View the full article
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Nice cockpit work on that F2A. Keep up the good work! Mark
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Gentleman, You may want to check what is posted. Mr Bell is still president and the information provided is very out of date. I am sure with what is going on during this pandemic other things are important. Just a heads up. RONBO.
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I do not think it is fair to expect Len and his team to predict with any certainty what public health experts cannot. Predictions change almost daily. The possible scenarios are almost limitless! Best case- the pandemic has run it’s course by July and there are no travel or gathering restrictions anywhere. Or it is still roaring along everywhere and no one can move. Or it has burned itself out on the east coast, but at peak in a city like San Marcos. Or San Marcos has been relatively spared and the last thing they want is a lot of carriers from New York State or California, for example, to fan the flames. I have no doubt that Len and his people are in a high state of anxiety about this. All each of us, potentially has to deal with is the disappointment of not having a National to go to this year. They are wrestling with trying to decide, after two long years of hard work and planning and dedication, if they will have to pull the plug on it and when. What if San Marcos allows such a gathering, but there is a travel ban from enough so called “hot spots” that attendance significantly suffers? What if our convention site is a hospital by the end of July? What if the airline industry is so broken down by this that you couldn’t get a flight, regardless of how far in advance you made a reservation? For that matter, how many of our mostly elderly members will be ill with it or too understandably worried about contracting it (if they had avoided it by the end of July) to venture from what up to that point will have been the apparent safety of their home, even if permitted to do so? What if the National is held, but for such reasons, the numbers are so low that room and banquet minimums are not achieved? What if some of us succumb to this disease? Let’s be respectful and appreciative of the San Marcos team- and patient. And, for goodness sake, do whatever you can to stay healthy! Nick
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Review Author: Michael Reeves Eduard Eduard has for a long time been releasing excellent aircraft kits in many forms- but the Profipack editions are easily my favorite ones as they usually include extras including color PE frets, masks, and sometimes bit of their Brassin products as well. This newer edition of their Mustang line contains no Brassin, but the included masks and color PE add immeasurable amounts of excellent detail to the kit build as we will soon see. What's Inside the Box The kit contents come in a nice sturdy box and includes the following well-packed bits: 1 round clear sprue with three different teardrop canopies 5 grey sprues with one containing loads of extra wing tanks, rockets, and bombs to ass to your spares box 1 PE fret with color and clear metal parts Masking set Decal sheet featuring stencils and markings for six ETO schemes Construction As usual, construction begins with the cockpit "office". The pilot seat, floor, and radio set take up step A and we continue to the sidewall assemblies. Most of the included PE is added in these first few steps between panels, seat belts, and placards. The color bits get added to panels and look great. I didn't add every single switch from the PE as some of them are a bit fiddly and my fingers are "fumblesome". After adding the rear tailwheel compartment to the fuselage sides, the two sides get put together. No real fit issues here and it all looks great with no real seams to deal with. Step E is a very instricate assembly of the main wheel gear wells. It is a multi-piece assembly that looks great but is cumbersome to build. Fifteen parts later and it gets attached to the lower wing. I took care and seated everything as well as I could. However, as I tried to add the two upper wing halves to the lower wing assembly I could not get things to settle in. Only with some clamping and praying could I get things to look right, but I have no idea what went wrong. The flap attachments were a bit challenging as well as they didn't sit flush easily. After adding the guns and ailerons, it was time to bring the wings and fuselage together. Tail assembly followed with no real issues. Back to the office with the instrument panel assembly. Plastic parts are in the kit for those who want to go that route, but I was happy to use the PE color panels. The gauges even have a raised drop of clear to simulate gauge faces. After adding the rudder pedals and the hood panel, everything drops down into place. After this is all those great fiddly bits- tailwheel assembly, radiator vents and covers, exhausts, and landing gear. Gear parts look great but in all cases, the attachment points are either very shallow or difficult to locate. I found myself guesstimating where to place the tailwheel strut as it didn't seem to fit any specific place and look right. From here, we apply masks to the clear parts and get ready for painting. I waited to attach the gear and doors and hatches until after painting so as not to knock them off. Same with the propeller, exhausts, and drop tanks- which were dutifully applied after painting and with that, construction came to an end. Painting and Weathering The six included schemes include: A.- 44-13318 flown by Lt. Colonel Thomas L. Hayes- this is the OD over gray scheme for "Frenesi" with D-Day stripes B.- 44-13606 flown by Capt. Claude J. Crenshaw- "Louisiana Heatwave"- an NMF scheme with green nose and D-Day stripes C.- 44-13859 flown by Lt. Walter Mullins--an unnamed NMF plane with nude noseart--a unique scheme of NMF with OD wing tops and patches on the fuselage D.- 44-13321 flown by Capt. John M. Simmons Jr.- a Checkertail Clan scheme called "Devastating Dottie" E.- 44-13321 flown bt Maj. George Preddy Jr- well known blue nosed scheme "Cripes A'Mighty 3rd" with D-Day stripes F.- 44-13321 flown by Maj. George Preddy Jr. - same plane with altered paint scheme--only bottom side D-Day stripes and sharkmouth wing tanks I chose scheme C because I wasn't feeling the D-Day stripes and while I love a Checkertail Clan scheme, the nude nose art just won out. That and the neat OD over NMF was different enough for me to try. I used AK Interactive Xtreme Metals line for the NMF--alternating between polished aluminum and white aluminum. For the top side OD, I used Vallejo Model Air. There are extensive charts showing the different color panels for the metal finishes, as well as another showing stencil placement (and there are a lot of stencils!). The decals look amazing but are very delicate and thin. More often than not, as I went to place them, they curled up on me. I had to place them back in the water to unfurl and then retry with success most often. Just take your time! Conclusion I thoroughly enjoyed building this kit. Not an overabundance of PE, but enough to set the build apart with excellent detail. The masks did quite well with no bleed through at all. The decals look great but needed lots of care and attention to avoid issues. The only part of the build I had trouble with was step E with the gear well assembly and their placement as the wing tops were attached to the lower wing. I haven't seen others with this issue so I am assuming that is mostly my error, but novice builders should take care to avoid the issues I had. Other than that and the tricky gear strut placement, I am pleased with the results and heartily recommend trying one of Eduard's Mustang kits out if you haven't as they are of great quality. My thanks goes out to Eduard and IPMS-USA for the review sample. View the full article
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Review Author: Jim Stepanek Academy Models This is a review of the 1/24th Academy Hyundai Santa Fe. Engine: No engine. It's curbside kit and a 2018 model year. Interior: Interior is wonderfully engraved and everything fits perfectly. There were no painting instructions so interior was left black from the kit. Body: Body was crisp and clean with no flash. I used HOK white and coated with 2 part urethane clear. Chassis: The suspension parts are very few - about 5 parts total. The exhaust is molded in the chassis leaving only a chrome muffler and exhaust tip to attach.. All the parts fit with no issues. Instructions: The instructions are several pages long and printed on glossy paper. Decals: Decals were crisp and I was able to apply them very easily. I had severe issues with final assembly. The rear had a small clip to fit into a slot on the chassis while the front had pins/sockets on the front. Using the factory attachment points caused the body to sit 1/8" above the chassis. I removed the attachment points but that gave very little area to glue the chassis to the body and I got glue where it shouldn't be and it shows. Thank you to Academy and MRC for allowing me to review this kit. View the full article
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soldering Iron recommendation sought
Mister300 replied to tomqvaxy's topic in Tools, Tips & Techniques
The Hakko has a huge line of replacement tips with specialized shapes and sizes and it heats instantly. Here is the owners manualSoldering instructions.pdf Manual has part level troubleshooting and replacement part list for everything built into the station. Not engineered to be a throwaway tool. -
Review Author: Jim Stepanek Flex-I-File This is a review of the Flex-i-File Flex Set #550 Oh man. No engine, no interior, no wheels. And you wouldn't expect those items in a sanding kit. I ran into the Flex-i-File family at the IPMS Nationals in Orlando a few years ago and was impressed with their products. So I bought a few items and have used them extensively over the years. I've included pics of the package and the package contents. Notice that the sanding sticks and sticks are color matched to a particular grit. Makes life easier. I've other sanding sticks that fall apart after being used wet. These sticks don't separate and can also be easily trimmed to another shape if needed. Need to sand the inside portion of a grille opening? Just hook one side of the supplied frame to a sanding strip, put the strip through the grille cavity, and connect the strip to the other end of the frame. Sand away. The Flex-i-File Flex Set #550 is a fantastic addition to your hobby area tools. Thank you to IPMS for allowing me to review this kit. View the full article
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Review Author: Bill O'Malley Kitty Hawk "Pave Hawk" HH-60G This the second part of the review of Kitty Hawk's 1/35 "Pave Hawk" HH-60G. This review covers the engines, exterior, and armament of the Pave Hawk kit. Background on the Pave Hawk, description of the kit, contents, and interior assembly of the kit is reviewed separately: Kitty Hawk "Pave Hawk" HH-60G, Part 1 Interior Background The HH-60G Pave Hawk's core mission is recovery of personnel under hostile conditions, including combat search and rescue. Sikorsky HH-60G Pave Hawk 26227 of the 305th Rescue Squadron based at Davis-Monthan AFB participated in "Operation Red Wings II, On 2 July 2005, near Salar Ban in Northeastern Afghanistan. This aircraft picked up "Lone Survivor" Marcus Luttrell." Wikipedia/Jetphotos. I used references provided by Werner's Wings and online sources to build the Kitty Hawk model to reflect the "Lone Survivor" 26227. Engines After building the interior of the Pave Hawk, assembly of the engines begins in step 14. The engines have nice detail but somewhat simplified without a lot of wiring or piping. One of the engine halves, part F64, he has a tab opening but no part. The actual engines have a black box at this location, but no part is provided with the kit. Also, part F57 has a square peg that looks like an additional part should be attached. Pipe parts F66 are very delicate and I managed to break both of them during assembly, so I replaced them with solder. The last step in step 14 is installation of part F58. It would be much easier to install this part after steps 15 and 16 are completed. There are many online images of the engines to help with additional detailing and painting options. Upper Fuselage Cowling "Dog House" The Upper Cowling is assembled in steps 17 through 19 and presented difficulties with part fit and sequence. Like with the main cabin interior, Kitty Hawk uses an upside-down sequence to assemble the doghouse to the underside of the cowling and then mounts everything to the fuselage. This is counter-intuitive and confuses assembly as some views are from the bottom and others from the top. I plan to also build the Blackhawk version and will build the Doghouse from the bottom up on top of the fuselage to see if that works. The bulkheads for the engine compartments are attached to the underside of the doghouse in step 17. Part C66 is missed labeled but obviously should be C56.The rear engine mounts, C12 and C13, need to be perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the chopper so the intake cowlings will fit properly later on. Step 18 presented some real difficulties in assembly. The exhausts fit together OK, but the part labelled C8 should be C11, and the part labeled as C11 should be C8. There are ejection pins on these parts that should be filled as they will be visible after assembly. The pipes D43 & D44 installed on the engines are actually wrapped with insulation so it should have a rough texture. I used some Mr. Surfacer to add a little texture. Parts E1 and E5 make up the transmission between the engines and rotor hub. I found it impossible to install these parts without cutting off the shaft connecting to the engine and installing it separately. The rotor hub is not labeled but obviously part C44. This part gets assembled hanging in space with no accurate location. The doghouse, transmission, and rotor hub should be dry fit to the top of the fuselage when these parts are glued to get them in the accurate location. This is another step that would be simplified if the doghouse would be built right side up on top of the fuselage. Intakes and Transmission Covers Step 18 also installs the front air intakes and cover for the transmission. This subassembly has a difficult fit to the doghouse and requires patching of the joints. The transmission covers on the Pave Hawk are spaced out so there is a gap to the fuselage. The exhaust ports for the fuselage, parts D48 and D52 are attached and should be dry fit to the top of the fuselage to get the correct location and minimize joints. Kitty Hawk does put these seams on panel lines which is helpful. Step 19 installs the engine covers, antennas, and lights on the top of the doghouse, and shrouds over the engine exhaust. Assembling the engine covers left some large gaps with the adjoining panels. Once the upper cowling doghouse is assembled, it is not installed on the fuselage until the very end of the assembly instructions. I thought it would be better to install it now in case some modifications need to be done for a good fit. It would also make painting of the fuselage easier to do it with the upper cowling installed. I decided to skip to step 23, assembling the fuselage halves, and then installing the doghouse now rather than later. Fuselage Assembly The fuselage halves are assembled over the interior shell in step 23. Make sure to drill out the holes noted in step 22 before assembling the fuselage halves. The fuselage has nice detail, but the rivets are recessed rather than projecting. The rivets do project on the window frames on the door panels, and panel lines are recessed. The shell of the interior on my assembly was too wide for the fuselage halves is to fit tightly together. After considerable trimming and sanding of the interior ribs I was able to get the fuselage halves together. I found it necessary to install shims/spacers on the bottom of the fuselage halves to get the parts to align. The resulting seam in the fuselage is very tight and only required minimum filling and patching. Most of the seam could be repaired just by applying liquid cement and scraping the joints smooth. Several parts are trapped between the fuselage halves in this step, including the pin for the tail rotor and the tail landing gear. An option that is also provided for the FLIR if installed on the nose of the aircraft. At this point I installed the upper cowling doghouse to the top of the fuselage. The fit was very good and only required some clamping for a nice tight joint to the fuselage. After installing the doghouse I returned to step 19 and painted and installed the exhaust shields. Step 20 assembles and installs the main rotor assembly. The parts for this assembly seem to have more flash that required cleanup. The parts fit nicely and build into an impressive assembly with nice detail. Kitty Hawk includes fittings for some of the piping, but the piping is not provided with the kit. The blades are also attached to the rotor assembly in this step. The instructions don't show an option for mounting the blades in a folded configuration for transport, however it should be possible to turn the blades and only use one of the two anchor points so the blades are folded. tep 25 installs lights and other equipment to the underside of the aircraft, along with the rear stabilizer. The nose of the aircraft is assembled in step 26 and installed in step 32. My nose did not fit very tightly and required extensive trimming of the instrument tray at the front of the aircraft. When installing this be back in step 13 it would be wise to check the fit of the nose before gluing. Windows are installed in the cabin and cockpit doors in step 27 through 30. The fit of the clear plastic parts is very good, but the sprue connections are in the notch of the frame so careful cleanup is required. Step 31 assembles the tail rotor, which fits together nicely. Kitty Hawk suggests some additional wiring with molded-on connectors. Rear chaff dispensers are assembled and installed in step 32. Check to your references to determine if the dispensers are required. This step installs the front windshield to the cab and the aircraft's nose. The gunner windows are also installed in this step and can be installed closed or in an overlapping open condition. The cockpit doors are installed in step 33 and fit very nicely. The fit is tight enough that glue wasn't necessary so the doors can be removed later to install pilot figures. The large sliding cabin door is also installed in this step and can be posed either open or closed. The main landing gear is installed and assembled in steps 34 and 35 without any problems. The wheels have nice side wall lettering detail but are not sagged for the weight of the aircraft. I sanded a flat spot on the bottom to help the wheels settle down. I also assembled the metal landing gear set from Scale Aircraft Conversions for this aircraft. The refueling boom is assembled in step 35 and there are options for the boom in extended and retracted positions. The top cover of the refueling boom is miss-labeled D41 and should be D39. A light GP23 is called out however only one is provided and was used previously. I substituted part GP22. Step 36 and 38 shows optional parts G48 and G24 but only G24 is provided with the Pave Hawk version. The ammo box for the gunner's position is installed in these steps. The front chaff dispensers are also assembled and installed in this step. Armament Step 37 assembles the GAU machine gun for the gunner positions. The last two steps of the instructions also show installation of these guns in the main cabin. The guns have good detail but the assembly is a little unclear for the brackets F19 and F20. Also, the shell ejection chute is called out to be PE10 but is actually PE3. I attempted to fold and bend the PE to shape but was not successful. The PE just doesn't bend without kinking. It would've been better to use a vinyl piece or even a molded plastic piece for the ejection chute. The machine guns in the gunner's positions are installed in step 39. The feed chute for the ammo is also called out to be a photoetch which has the same problems of kinking when trying to fold the shape. The Pave Hawk 6227 version I am building has Miniguns at both gunner positions, so I used a Live Resin set. The Kitty Hawk kit includes Miniguns on sprue F, but assembly is not shown in the instructions. Assembly instructions for the Miniguns are included with the Kitty Hawk Blackhawk version of the kit. The Kitty Hawk Miniguns have very nice detail, but need a vinyl or plastic ammo chute rather than the kit supplied photoetch. Steps 40 and 41 show assembly of the upper engine and electronics hull doghouse but I had installed these previously to facilitate painting. The last two pages of the instructions show assembly and installation of a GAU-21 machine guns on both sides of the main cabin. The illustration on page 32 shows the installation of Miniguns at the forward gutter positions but these are not detailed in the instructions. Decals Kitty Hawk provides decals for two versions of the paperwork: * HH-60G "Pave Hawk" 6465 of the 41st Rescue Squadron 'Jolly Green', an overall gray dark gull gray scheme. * HH-60G "Pave Hawk" 3689 of the 55th Rescue Squadron 'Night Hawks', a three-color green and gray camouflage scheme. The decals are thick and required several coats of setting solution for the larger decals. I also used decals from Werner Wing's excellent set for the Pave Hawk that provided decals not included with the Kitty Hawk kit. I created some custom decals for the tail unit designation and the Arizona emblem. I painted the Pave Hawk with Mission Model's acrylic paints. Dark Gull Grey was used for the basic color as I thought Gunship Grey was too dark compared to reference photos for 26227. Hairspray wear was added in several areas over Dark Aluminum. A dark wash was used to bring out surface detail and make the rivets stand out. Summary Kitty hawk has produced an excellent kit of the HH-60G Pave Hawk helicopter. The kit provides very nice detail, accurately represents the aircraft, and offers options to build several variations of the Pave Hawk. Familiarity with the aircraft or good reference photos or very helpful when building this kit. This kit is not an easy build and is better suited for more experienced builders. The instructions contain many errors and reworking some of the parts is required for a good fit. The recessed rivets on the hall or disappointing but otherwise the kit is very accurate. Substituting plastic or vinyl parts for the gun feed and ejection chutes would have been better. In summary, Kitty Hawk's kit was an enjoyable, although difficult, build that results in an accurate representation of the Pave Hawk. Thanks to Kitty Hawk for producing this excellent kit and providing the review sample to IPMS. View the full article
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As I have stated above: "If the planning committee has news regarding COVID-19 and its potential negative effects on the 2020 Convention I will post the info the main page of the convention website: www.nats2020.com." As of right now the main page of the Nats2020 web site states this: "COVID-19 Update! The convention team is still moving forward with planning for the 2020 convention. While we are well aware of all the social distancing and quarantine policies in place around the country these are temporary in nature and we are continuing with the assumption that by late July these will be restrictions will be lifted. The planning team will continue to track this issue closely. Click here for more information from the City of San Marcos." A good place to get up-to-date information from the City of San Marcos regarding government restrictions on public gatherings is: https://www.sanmarcostx.gov/279/Coronavirus-Information-and-Prevention. I have no more information (and more importantly, facts) to share except that planning continues. -Len
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I don't know, and I'm sure there many modelers out there in the same state of confusion as I. Just an official statement from either the host chapter or the E-board would be nice.
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I think I am able to call this one done. Figure is Tahk with Alpine head. Correct T41 grousers were designed in 3D cad and printed on a Photon printer. Additional images can be found here: M3 Lee Late
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John, the original post was from 2014. Chances are the photos are no longer on the web image host.
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Dave, Thanks for the update. I just had a fried print some parts on a Photon. Amazing quality but brittle. I really want one of those but no place for a proper set up. Keep us posted on your progress. Will be cool to see some printed parts from your project.
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soldering Iron recommendation sought
tomqvaxy replied to tomqvaxy's topic in Tools, Tips & Techniques
impressive endorsements for such a moderately priced unit. I like it and the American beauty model here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S20H0Q/?coliid=I1846ADLBVCWM0&colid=FEDCRO6LYELH&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it i'm not getting hobby time for a couple of months so I have time to cogitate for a bit, as well as save my pennies! thanks for all the inputs. -
soldering Iron recommendation sought
Ralph Nardone replied to tomqvaxy's topic in Tools, Tips & Techniques
+1 on the Hakko unit. I've worked corporate jet avionics for 30+ years, and most shops I've worked for either had them or upgraded to them--they are of a much better quality than a comparable Weller unit. -
Nicely done figure and I like the base very original and perfect
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Looks great and am looking forward to seeing it completed.
- Last week
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First of all, welcome to the Forums! I'm glad to see you here. I don't know what you can do given the manufacturer is long closed down. I wish you luck on your search; I'm sure someone here has one or knows where to get one.
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Great start on an older kit that was W-A-Y ahead of its time! Gil
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Impressive! I hope you've contacted Lockheed about getting paid.... Gil
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After recuperating from my surgery, I finally got to my hobby desk and the last figure I was working on was the Cary Cooper Beau Geste bust. the kit was produced by Norbert Ossner and sculpted by Alejandro Lopez Ramirez The kit is in 3 resin pieces - the bust, base, and frame for the movie poster. The movie poster printout is also added. Following the movie poster printout and a colorized photo, I added the base colors: During today's session, I put the finishing touches on Gary Cooper. For the base I put down some glue and then dusted it with Chinchilla Dust. This is stuff you can buy at a good pet store. Evidently Chinchillas don't use water so they take dust baths. This dust is incredible fine, and works well in many scales. I bought the 3lb jug, and it'll last more than a lifetime. When it's all dry I painted it with V's Dark Sand. To give a highlight I added a little Ivory to the Sand color. Then I thought it needed a little something, and made a few bullet holes with a drill bit. Filled in the divot with Vs Orange Brown, but that didn't stand out enough, so I added some black pastels to the holes. Don't know if that would ever happen, but... what the heck. From there I made the wooden frame for the movie poster looked bleached out and again added more glue and dust to make it look like sand blew onto the bottom of the frame. Then looking at the poster it seemed too new, so I mist coated it with matte clear coat to protect the ink, and then aged it with Citadel's Sepia. From there I added a few dust streaks with a pastel that matched the Dark Sand. I glued the poster to the frame, the frame to the wall and I was done. Thanks for looking.
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Sweeet
