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  2. Update: Found a couple of kits from the Ukraine that I think I can combine to create the cop that I need. Ordered from a U.S. company that is supposed to have'em in stock. But the operative word is 'supposed'. Now we'll see if I get'em in the next week or so or if they don't show up til September!
  3. Today
  4. I usually set my pressure with the trigger depressed--it gives me more of an idea what the pressure at the gun will be when I'm spraying. I used to return thinned paint to the original jar, until I had several jars solidify or turn to jelly on me after a day or so. I learned then that if I wanted to save extra paint to do so in a clean jar, that way the original won't be compromised. I've had this happen with both enamels and acrylics, the lacquers don't seem to have this issue. I use acrylics almost exclusively these days, so after each color I'll start by spraying cleaner through the airbrush until it comes out relatively clear. Then the airbrush gets field stripped (head assembly comes off, needle and nozzle get pulled)--not so much because I'm afraid one color will pollute the other, but because as the acrylic dries, it can clog the gun and create additional clogs. I wipe the parts down, reassemble the gun, and then spray airbrush cleaner through the gun again. I use Iwata's cleaner--I used to think it and needle lube were nothing but snake oil that the airbrush manufacturers sold, but once I started using them, I won't stop. Beware that using ammonia (or products containing ammonia like window cleaner) to clean an airbrush might void the warranty--I know Grex says this, and Badger says to flush it out with water after using ammonia. Ammonia erodes the plating and will oxidize the brass. Several people I know ruined their Iwata airbrushes by using WIndex--after repeated use, the nozzle froze in the body, and when they tried to remove it, it broke off at the threads. Oh, and if you use acrylics, don't use alcohol--alcohol is a drying agent and will cause the paint to dry inside the gun. Or that's what Badger says--and seeing as they've been in the airbrush business for many, many, years, I have little reason to doubt them. Once a year, I will do a full strip and clean using lacquer thinner to get any residual paint out of the nooks and crannies. At this time, I examine all seals and gaskets and replace them if they are worn. Cheers! Ralph
  5. Yesterday
  6. I would not worry about it the spray pressure depends on your viscosity and media etc.
  7. Thanks for your reply. Yes, I am not using a storage tank.
  8. Working on commissioned article that is a vignette incorporating a motorcycle cop making a traffic stop on a 24th scale farm tractor and its driver. Problem is that somehow I ended up with a 35th scale standing motorcycle cop instead of the required 24th scale. I know. Stupid, stupid. Worse, I didn't realize it was 35th until I started to position everything on a base. Yeah, REALLY stupid! So far I have been unable to find a standing motorcycle cop in 24th scale. Since figures aren't my strong suit, meaning I'm not familiar with the various figure manufacturers, here I am needing your help. If anyone can help me solve this problem, I would be more than grateful, because without the cop the vignette can't be completed or the article finished. HELP!
  9. Got a Elelgoo Mars Pro resin printer coming today.
  10. Pressure drop is normal to characteristics of inexpensive compressor, not a high flow one assuming it has no storage tank on it? Should still work fine. Good upgrade is a carbon dioxide tank or a shop compressor with tank on it. I have an old Craftsman/Sears compressor which is bulletproof and inexpensive to maintain.
  11. Thanks Gil! Four of them are already completed. Feel free to check them out if you haven't already.
  12. Probably because the rest of the internet ain't model builders! LOL! 🤣
  13. Interesting experience. I cannot answer to the air pressure thing, but I can offer a suggestion for the cleaning aspect. I too pour any remaining paint into the jar it came in. I also have two of the airbrush cleaning bottles that you can spray into to remove anything in the brush. One I use when I'm cleaning out the cup. They way I clean my cup is this: first I get a small spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle and set it to 'stream' and I fill it with Lacquer thinner. You can use any cleaning medium you wish. The small spray bottle I use can be gotten from one of those stripper kits for stripping shellac from wood surfaces. After clearing the interior of the airbrush by spraying it into one cleaning bottle; I then tip the airbrush cup over the mount of one of the cleaning bottles and spray the stream of thinner in the cup, letting it run out and into the cleaning bottle. I keep spraying until it runs clean. Then I add some more thinner/cleaning agent to the cup, cover the needle end with a paper towel and backflush the brush. I then pour out the remainder and spray the remaining interior cleaner into the other cleaning bottle. I repeat until the backflush comes clear. After that; if I still need to break it down to clean, I do. Sorry I couldn't be more help with the rest of your questions. Hopefully soon, others will be here to offer more excellent advice.
  14. Thanks Kevin! As I'm already building two other tank transporters, I should be starting that Japanese one soon. Hey Gil! Do you want me to send a couple back? I don't often use Gloss Black, so let me know.
  15. I have a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor that I bought probably 30 years ago and haven't used in maybe 15 years. Decided to break it out this week. I took it apart, cleaned it and set it up to spray water. Looks like its working fine, and now to try some paint. But first I have some questions that date back to my last sessions using the tool. I did a search for 'airbrush techniques and basics' but didn't return any relevant results. I've read that 20 psi is a good starting point for spraying pressure. I have my regulator set to 20 psi at 'idle', but I notice that the pressure drops to approx 10 psi when flowing. Is this OK? Typically my paint jobs are not very big so I've only used the open spray cup (1/4 oz.). In the past I would use a pipette to put a couple drops of solvent in the bottom of the cup, followed by paint from the bottle, and then finish with a few more drops of thinned paint from the pipette. (After taking paint from the bottle and delivering it to the spray cup, I put the 'dirty' pipette in a small bottle of thinner, draw some up and put that mixture in the cup.) Then I use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup. I figure the initial drops of solvent should be the first thing to go through the spray tip if I don't mix it completely for some reason. I would love to hear your comments on this! Of course I have thought of pre-mixing the paint, but this seems like it would waste more paint than I actually sprayed (transferring from mixing bottle to spray cup). I bought an airbrush holder; U-shaped wire thingy, but it seems no matter how I place it in the holder, between the hose fitting on the bottom of the brush and the spray cup, it won't sit like I would like it to, i.e. ready to pick up and use. I need to keep the spray cup off the brush and insert it after taking it out of the holder. Did I just buy the wrong type? The holder that came with the airbrush is sheet metal and actually works great, but it needs to be mounted flat to the work table whereas the wire one mounts to the side and holds the brush above the table. Finally, clean-up. I will usually pour any remaining paint from the spray cup back into the bottle. I have a jar with thinner ready that is large enough to immerse the spray cup and I put it in there to soak. I also have the 1 oz glass spray bottle ready with thinner and insert that into the airbrush and spray into a rag until clear. Paasche's instructions say I only need to remove the needle and clean it, so that takes care of the brush. But that leaves the following items to clean: spray cup, jar that it was soaking in, small thinner jar that got contaminated when I put the paint pipette into it, the pipette, and the 1 oz spray jar I used to clean the brush because inevitably when I remove it some color backflows into the bottle. Plus of course the mixing bottle if I used one. And this needs to be done for each color change. No wonder I haven't used it in 15 years! Am I making a bigger deal out of this than needs to be? Looking forward to your feedback.
  16. The address for the 21' Nats is: natslv2021.com The site complete and as soon as we get the word form HQ (IPMS/USA) we'll publish and launch. We estimate that will be on or around July 15th. Hotel reservations will be able to be made as soon as the site is launched. Viva Las Vegas! 🙂 Thanks Bob
  17. I am heading down the final stretch on the lighted Hellcat Nightfighter. So this week I added the drop take and added the straps with some spare photo etch parts. The aircraft was then base coated with Vallejo dark sea blue. I then installed the exhaust pipes and started on the decals. I was about halfway done with the decals when a fellow modeler informed me that the kit decals are slightly larger than what they should be. I had already installed the “21” on the side of the fuselage but did not do the tail. I then looked at the tail decal and “slightly larger” is being nice. The tail decal covers the entire tail and hangs off the back. I scanned in the tail decals and resized them to match the tail. I made my own decals for the tail and it looks way better. I finished the decals and then weathered the exhaust stains then finally top coated it. While it was drying I started on the base. The frame was white so I sprayed it hull gray. The flight deck insert was then sprayed with deck tan and then deck blue. I then painted on the dashed lines in light gray. The deck was scraped lightly with some 600 grit sand paper to give it the weathered painted wood look. The tie down strips and the arresting cable tracks were painted dark metallic gray. The arresting cables were painted gunmetal, installed, and the entire surface was weathered with black, gray, and dark brown. This was then sealed with a thin coat of matte top coat. Stay tuned as next I will be detailing the canopy and some other minor details then mounting to the base and making the name plate which will also house the battery. You can see all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f6f-5n-hellcat-nightfighter/
  18. I met the man once. Around 1973, I would occasionally go to a Star Trek club that met in the evening at San Diego State. It was teenagers and college kids, but one evening this older gent showed up and introduced himself as Franz Joseph Schnaubelt. He claimed to have made a set of drawings of the Enterprise, and was wondering if we had any ideas about who might be interested in publishing them. I was impressed at his ambition--this was back when very little hard information to make such drawings existed in the public sphere--but privately thought the guy's drawings were probably just amateur stuff. He didn't have them to show--maybe he was coming straight from a night class. When his blueprints came out a while later I was very impressed with their quality and comprehensiveness.
  19. I think we need a review of fractions. Fun Fact: The bottom number in any fraction (1/2, 1/100, 1/350, etc.) is called the denominator. Say it with me: dee-nomm-inn-ater. 1. To convert from one scale to another, the rule is: Denominator of the scale you have divided by denominator of the scale you want. So if you have a plan in 1/350 and want to convert it to 1/400, simply divide 350 by 400: 350/400 = 0.875. 2. Now, convert that to a percentage, because just about every copier uses percentage to enlarge or reduce. How do we convert to percentage? Multiply the result obtained in Step 1 by 100: 0.875 x 100 = 87.5%. If the copier you are using does not allow fractions of a per cent, then round up or down at your discretion. Study this. Learn this. There will be a quiz tomorrow. Bring a #2 pencil and your Big Chief tablet to class.
  20. Take them to your local copy shop. Just tell them what you want to do and they have the equipment to do it. Will cost you, of course, but you'll get accurate, clear prints.
  21. Nick, thanks for getting back to me on this. Bob
  22. Hey Duke! Guess what I JUST ran out of yesterday......MM gloss black enamel..... Guess I should have hung onto a couple of those "classic black" bottles....Oh well! Gil
  23. "Woof! What a lot of sanding!" You don't know the half of it Duke! Gil
  24. Taking a long shot. I ordered & (finally) received Kasl Hobbies 1/48th scale RF-5E detail set. The only problem is most of the information is in Chinese. I checked the website shown on the instructions. The website is all in Chinese with no option for an English translation. The paint call outs are for Gunze Mr. Color which I should be able to cross to Model Master & Tamiya and I think I understand the diagrams well enough that I shouldn't have any problems. It would be nice to have a translation of the instructions. Do any of you read Chinese well enough to translate the attached.
  25. WOW, that was a really nice score. Terrific choice on the models too. Looking fwd to seeing what you can do with the truck! 🙂
  26. I went back to reread your first post. I think I goofed. You are building in the smaller scale. In that case, you must reduce your 1/350 scale plan to .875 to get to a 1/400 scale plan. Again, a good copier should be able to do this as well. My most common math error- failure to accurately read the question! Nick
  27. Last week
  28. MWS

    Newbie Academy AH-1Z Build

    Thanks to all of you for the encouragement. My family wants to know how come the rest of the internet aren't as nice and positive as you guys. Thank you
  29. If I have done these calculations correctly: (1) Obviously, a 1/350 scale model will be larger than a 1/400 scale model. (2) 1/350 is .00285 - rounded off to five places. (3) 1/400 is .00250 . (4) .00285 divided by .00250 is 1.1428. So, again, if I have done this right, you would need a copier that will “ blow up” a plan in one percent increments, selecting a setting of 1.14 percent. ( I do not think copiers go to thousandths.) I have a commercial grade copier in my office that will do this but a retail copy service I am sure would have such copiers also. Nick Ignore this. See below. Sorry
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