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  1. Yesterday
  2. Nice work, and a great save on that side window! Those scimitar props really add a degree of "cool" to the Hawkeye! GIL
  3. As promised, Part 8 of the Kinetic E-2C 2000 with revised photos is now available for your viewing pleasure. You can ignore Part 8 and 8A. As usual, comments are not only welcome but encouraged.
  4. Hi all, Here's the latest on the E2C 2000. The canopy was masked with Montex Mini Mask (# SM 48321). Not only do they fit perfectly, you get a double set so you can mask both the inside and outside if you choose. I got mine from Sprue Brothers, but the Montex website is montex-mask.com. One advantage to Kinetic's canopy approach is that it includes a section of the fuselage. Since the canopy isn't a perfect fit...probably the result of a replacement part due to a short shot in the kit...it allows you to putty and sand any problem seams with relative ease. Incidentally, unless the Kinetic policy has changed, when you request a replacement part, they won't acknowledge the request. Just send the part when they get around to running the kit mold again. This means that your needed part will eventually show up in your mailbox anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months or more later. Remember I said the wing fold joints and nacelle/wing joints fit perfectly? Well, they do. Mostly. But when I looked close, I found a slight step in the starboard wing step joint and a similar problem with the nacelle/wing joints. This is likely the result of the kit parts fitting as tightly as they do and it's something you need to watch out for. In any event, the problem isn't severe and can be taken care of without losing much if any surface detail, which can be easily restored. The port wing joint, nacelle area just took a little sanding and no putty at all. Whether the bulged side window...which is a separate piece that has to be installed before mounting the canopy...shifted during canopy installation or I simply screwed up the initial installation, I can't say. In any event, I had to carefully cut out the window and reinstall correctly. As it turned out, at least on my kit, the window was slightly too large to fit properly so it took several test fits and very gentle trimming to get things right. The eight-blade props are built up from a pair of four-bladers. Each blade also has an engraved leading edge that needs to be painted steel. Checking references, the steel sections appear to be everything from dark steel to bright aluminum. How much of this is due to light reflection and/or viewing angle I can't say. So for model purposes I chose to go with Model Master Metalizer Non-Buffing Aluminum. In an earlier installment, i installed brass tubing in the nacelles in preparation for removable props. To complete that system, I installed a length of 3/32" (.094") tubing in the back of each prop. Length of the tubing doesn't matter, within reason, and you'll have to align the new shafts with ye olde Mk. I eyeball computer. Done right, they'll spin like a whirligig if you hold the model in front of a fan. One of the eight-blade props completely finished. The white tips are decals and are designed to fold over to create white tips both front and back. It works for the most part, but you'll probably need to do a little bit of touchup on the back with Model Master Flat White. I did. And of course manufacturers logos go on the front of each blade, positioned so that the beltline of the logo aligns with the bottom line of the steel/aluminum leading edge. The decals from the kit sheet are appropriately thin, but they take a long time to release from their backing sheet. Since there are a total of 32 decals for the two props, you should plan on a relatively extended decal session. Also, I wound up using tweezers to handle and position all of the logos and some of the tip decals. The side windows have been corrected and reinstalled. The canopy section/fuselage seam has been eliminated. Last but not least, Finally the nose cone was added. The nose cone is indexed with a locator pin. As a result, the bottom part of the seam is a perfect fit but the top seam requires a little sanding to bring things into line. With that done, all that's left is a final shot of primer, finish paint and decals. Incidentally, 'all' is not as simple as it sounds considering the large number of decals.
  5. BryanKrueger

    Kurganets 25 APC

    Thanks Oliver and Raoul. I've started dust and rain marks. First layer of dust and streaks are created by airbrushing AK Light Dust enamel and then swiping the enamel with a ratty brush just damp with thinner. Pigments have been applied to the lower hull and running gear. Additional dust effects created with oil paints. I need to bring some of the lower darker colors up the hull sides next. Wheels are not fully attached so there may be some alignment issues.
  6. Tried to get the latest installment in before a doctor's appointment. Will repost when I get back with better photos. Tried to add ten photos and had to reduce the image size which resulted in lower quality/grainy appearance. My apologies.
  7. Hi all, Here's the latest on the E2C 2000. The canopy was masked with Montex Mini Mask (# SM 48321). Not only do they fit perfectly, you get a double set so you can mask both the inside and outside if you choose. I got mine from Sprue Brothers, but the Montex website is montex-mask.com. One advantage to Kinetic's canopy approach is that it includes a section of the fuselage. Since the canopy isn't a perfect fit...probably the result of a replacement part due to a short shot in the kit...it allows you to putty and sand any problem seams with relative ease. Incidentally, unless the Kinetic policy has changed, when you request a replacement part, they won't acknowledge the request. Just send the part when they get around to running the kit mold again. This means that your needed part will eventually show up in your mailbox anywhere from a few weeks to a couple of months or more later. Remember I said the wing fold joints and nacelle/wing joints fit perfectly? Well, they do. Mostly. But when I looked close, I found a slight step in the starboard wing step joint and a similar problem with the nacelle/wing joints. This is likely the result of the kit parts fitting as tightly as they do and it's something you need to watch out for. In any event, the problem isn't severe and can be taken care of without losing much if any surface detail, which can be easily restored. The port wing joint, nacelle area just took a little sanding and no putty at all. Whether the bulged side window...which is a separate piece that has to be installed before mounting the canopy...shifted during canopy installation or I simply screwed up the initial installation, I can't say. In any event, I had to carefully cut out the window and reinstall correctly. As it turned out, at least on my kit, the window was slightly too large to fit properly so it took several test fits and very gentle trimming to get things right. The eight-blade props are built up from a pair of four-bladers. Each blade also has an engraved leading edge that needs to be painted steel. Checking references, the steel sections appear to be everything from dark steel to bright aluminum. How much of this is due to light reflection and/or viewing angle I can't say. So for model purposes I chose to go with Model Master Metalizer Non-Buffing Aluminum. In an earlier installment, i installed brass tubing in the nacelles in preparation for removable props. To complete that system, I installed a length of 3/32" tubing in the back of each prop. Length of the tubing doesn't matter, within reason, and you'll have to align the new shafts with ye olde Mk. I eyeball computer. Done right, they'll spin like a whirligig if you hold the model in front of a fan. One of the eight-blade props completely finished. The white tips are decals and are designed to fold over to create white tips both front and back. It works for the most part, but you'll probably need to do a little bit of touchup on the back with Model Master Flat White. I did. And of course manufacturers logos go on the front of each blade, positioned so that the beltline of the logo aligns with the bottom line of the steel/aluminum leading edge. The decals from the kit sheet are appropriately thin, but they take a long time to release from their backing sheet. Since there are a total of 32 decals for the two props, you should plan on a relatively extended decal session. Also, I wound up using tweezers to handle and position all of the logos and some of the tip decals. The side windows have been corrected and reinstalled. The canopy section/fuselage seam has been eliminated. Last but not least, Finally the nose cone was added. The nose cone is indexed with a locator pin. As a result, the bottom part of the seam is a perfect fit but the top seam requires a little sanding to bring things into line. With that done, all that's left is a final shot of primer, finish paint and decals. Incidentally, 'all' is not as simple as it sounds considering the large number of decals.
  8. This model is another model from deep in the stash. I remember buying the model from the Buy and Sell section of a forum. The sculptor was Chris Lynch, and looking at Boba's size, I'm guessing it's around 1/10th scale. I have no further info on it. Even doing a web search, that title gets exactly 1 hit from a guy on a Star Wars Models website who had it listed on his "wants" page. It's not from one of the movies, but maybe a comic or some book? The kit came in about 10 parts. Boba's body and the bird; Boba's head, his two arms and rifle, the two sand people heads, a gun in a holster, some bag that had no apparent place to go, and the two parts of the birds restraint. It also came with a length of cord, and a length of "pleather". The resin was mostly in good shape, but it did need a little work. I didn't think to take a pic before starting, but here we are with most of the parts attached - The bird was tackled first. With it supposedly from Tatooine, I figured it was to blend into a sandy, rocky background. So the bird was made up of browns and other neutral colors. I figured the model needed a splash of color, so blue was added to the bird's crest and around his eyes. This color choice will come in handy later. The ground work is just a dark sand and and an orange ocher Next turning my attention to Boba, I started filling in the colors that I remembered. There was a few times where I had to look up exactly what color went where. At this point I also painted in the Sand People heads with Iraqi Sand and White Aluminum for the metal parts. Around their mouth was a brown leather color and the bottom of the mouth looked really dark. I ended up painting it a German Gray. The blaster was painted with VMC Gunmetal, and then highlighted lightly in silver. The silver was also used to create the scratches around his armor. It was here I thought the bird needed a little more color, so I took the Cavalry Red I used for his gauntlets, and highlighted the birds feathers. This is where I left it for the day. A few days later I was back and it was time to finish up Boba. The first thing to do was paint the backpack. Here's where a little indecision came in. He seems to have changed his uniform between ESB and ROTJ. In ESB his back pack was mostly green (also green gauntlets), but in ROTJ the backpack was more colorful including an ocher color, a red, and even blue! So to harmonize the model; the red is the same color as the gauntlets, and I reduced the saturation of the blue by adding black, and then I lightened it by adding the gray from his jumpsuit. While this was drying, I glued in the restraints to the birds collar. When the CA on that dried, I wrapped the pleather around the collar, and then according to the line diagram that came with the kit, around the saddle horn and back to the other part of the collar. I dipped the cord in Citadel's Agrax Earthshade, glued it in loops and then just hung it around the Sand People heads. This was another model I could fiddle with forever, so instead I called this one done. Thanks for looking.
  9. Roktman

    Miss Pumpkin Witch: WIP

    Thanks! Being this one was a pretty simplistic design, there was a few touch ups and then glue the arm and hat on. Then I created a simple base from foam, static grass, Aves shaped into a pumpkin, and some lead wire for the vine. Calling this one done. Thanks for looking.
  10. Last week
  11. ghodges

    To all the gizmologist- how to wire an aircraft

    I've found that the thing that makes modeler's wiring bundles look the most realistic isn't how they're run, but adding those bundle wrap straps and end connectors. Those little details, along with some sharp painting and washes, are what really make them appear authentic to me. GIL
  12. Mark Deliduka

    Albatross D-V

    Beautiful job Gil! That is sensational! Way to go!
  13. ipmsusa2

    Repair Assistance Needed

    Hi all, I received a phone call from a 78 year old gentleman in Norwich, NY. His grandson damaged a Sopwith Camel model...knocked the top wing off...and he needs it repaired. Wingspan of the model is approximately 15" and was purchased ready built. It is not a kit. It isn't practical for him to ship it to me in Texas for repairs, so I would like to put him together with someone in the Syracuse/Norwich/Binghamton area who would be willing to do the repairs for him. Anyone interested, please reply to my email at tennexican@gmail.com and I will provide the gentleman's name and full contact information.
  14. This is for all the gizmologist out there whe randomly run wires all over an aircraft. This is how real aircraft are wired. All carefully run and orderly. Bundles properly secured and tied. The is a rewire job on a KC-135R
  15. ghodges

    Albatross D-V

    This is the Eduard weekend edition Albatross D-V kit built OOTB with the kit markings. I did this one so I could knock the "mauve scheme" off of my bucket list! I did paint the red trim on the tail instead of trying to use the kit decals there. Ceramic Wonder Wire was used for the rigging. The Eduard Albatross is typical of most all their WWI kits; well detailed as kitted and true to fidelity to scale. Where they fall down in comparison to the "older" biplane kits we grew up with (that were not so nice) is that they're harder to build. The "scale pins" on the cabanes and V struts make it difficult to get positive fit and alignment. They're engineered towards accuracy, not towards being builder friendly, especially to the biplane novice. That said, it makes for an attractive model to put on your shelf when done! Critiques, comments, and questions welcome, as always! GIL
  16. Jeeves

    P-47D centerline drop tank

    I think when it comes doen to it, in the field when a mission called for a drop tank, it wouldn't matter what they used...if something like the 200 gal was laying around, it would've probably been used in a pinch...
  17. Mark Deliduka

    The Duke's Ten Latest Models. Six Aircraft Here

    Thanks Rick! I hope so! I sure build enough!
  18. Mark Deliduka

    The Duke's Latest Aircraft

    Thanks Richard! I am real happy with this one. You gotta love the color scheme!
  19. Mark Deliduka

    P-47D centerline drop tank

    I'm the same way Gil. I don't care what others think either. While, I might listen to those well-meaning souls who kindly and with friendship will mention something out of place; I will consider it while deciding whether I'll keep it because it looks cool. Ron, I'd love to see yours with the paper belly tank. I say go for it.
  20. Moto: 1/6 or 1/8 or the ever-popular Protar 1/9 scale of modern street bikes, with a distinct preference for Indians (Roadmaster, plox!), KTM & BMW adventure bikes and Triumphs Civil: A real 1/144 CV-880 & 990. The most beautiful airliners to ever grace the skies. The Glencoe rehash is OK, but c'mon, man. Sea: A modern 1/350 N/S Savannah; a selection of modern big-name cruise ships in 1/700 - RC, MSC, Norwegian, etc.; 1/350 modern European river cruise "longboats"
  21. ghodges

    P-47D centerline drop tank

    My thoughts are that would be a cool looking arrangement that's not often seen. My reply to anyone who was stupid enough to say "those tanks were never used on the belly" would be; PROVE IT! If you're truly concerned about it, then go the safe, plain way and hang the flat belly tank that no one will question.... Yeah, my not caring what others think about how I build MY models is showing...... GIL
  22. WildBill50

    Visceral Visions Medusa (rated PG-17)

    SSSimply amazing! SSStunning. Well, you get the idea. She does NOT need scales! Great job. Bill
  23. Blackbird71

    P-47D centerline drop tank

    Hello all. I'm building the Academy P-47D 1/72 bubbletop. Doing "No Guts No Glory" from 78th FG 84 FS. Microscale sheet 72-886. Thinking of arming it with 2-500lb bombs on the wings and a paper drop tank on the centerline. On my attachment, I mean the 200 gal belly tank. I know you don't see a lot of bubbletop D's with the centerline paper tank. Does anyone think this is incorrect? thanks
  24. Tru-Color Paint was formed in 2008 by Rick Galazzo and Scott Cohen, both of whom come from extensive backgrounds in formulating paint on the commercial scale. They set out on their own to develop this paint line of solvent based paint by reformulating the old Accupaint formulation to flow better and give a more glossy appearance after drying. They currently offer over 600 colors offered with more to follow. Sets and single bottles are available and include lines for railroad, automotive, and military aircraft and armament lines. The specific set I tested was specifically for armored subjects painted olive drab from the years 1939-1956 and include the following colors in 1 oz. bottles: read more View the full article
  25. Christmas came early this year for me when I received the email that this beastie was available for review. I am incredibly thankful to Kinetic Models for providing this kit for review and to the review corps higher-ups for trusting someone brand new to the group for having faith in me to not only build this thing, but in a timely manner to boot. It is a re-kitting of the Vintage Fighter Series kit released in 2008. I won't say the ride was completely smooth...but it was a fun ride regardless. read more View the full article
  26. sprueguy

    Miss Pumpkin Witch: WIP

    Another fantastic work.....
  27. Thanks, Mike Moore, but I've already booked the rooms I need at the Day's Inn. I just wanted everyone else to understand what I was told when I called.
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