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  1. Today
  2. Welcome aboard! We hope to see your work sometime. Mark
  3. Welcome aboard! The 3D printing work is impressive! I am fascinated with all the possibilities of this technology. Mark
  4. sprueguy

    The Howling Man

    WOW! another great piece, your color choice is fantastic.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Roktman

    The Howling Man

    Today's subject is another from MoonDevil Studio. It's the Howling Man, from a 1060 episode of the Twilight Zone. From IMDB: Just looking at the sculpt you get to see how the story ends. The kit comes in the usually 2 parts, the bust and the base. The kit is typically well done and only the slightest seamline is seen across the slicked back hair. Looking at images of the actor, Robin Hughes, the first obvious thing is that it's all in B&W (Duh, it was 1960, Kev...). My first idea was to paint it up that way. But it was only a few days after JerseyFest (where I got the model) that someone else posted on the FB GK groups his version which was in B&W. So I decided to go with color. Next thing to think about was what is the coloring. Looking at the film still, it looks like the actor has no coloring makeup, and his shirt is black and his cape is alsodark with a light color stripes, and cowl. I remembered a movie memorabilia auction where Dracula's cape was up for bid. The cape as you would expect was black, but the inside was a salmon color satin! I decided that my devil will have the same. If it's good enuff for Bela, it's good enuff for the Howling Man... But first comes the primer. And then I decided to make him a red devil. It wqas at this point I decided that I would work on my OSL. Not show is I started by using my "red" paint set, and started at one end with a dark purple color. This will be my deepest shadow. I started with a flesh color which would give me the salmon color, but decided to add some pearlizing additive to make the cowl shone a bit. But the pearl flecks are in a white medium, not clear. This turned the salmon color a little beige. Hmmm do I want the pearl, or do I want the salmon color. I chose the shine so my cowl became this beige color. In retrospect I should have darkened the shadows of the cowl more as I was going, which would enhance the shine. I tried after 90% of it was done, but was afraid of ruining what I had done so far, and chickened out spraying the shadows darker. The cape was black, the shirt was German Gray, and the chain was brass, which IMHO looks more like gold and the gold paint does. The base was gray which Black Gray in the cracks, and the lettering was the same Scarlet that was the highest highlight of the face. With that I was calling this done. Thanks for looking.
  7. WOTW (3 part drama) will be airing at 9PM UK time this Sunday 17th November (immediately after His Dark Materials which is two weeks in and fantastic.) BBC has a catchup service named I player on the web that should be available to the USA. Bear in mind this catchup service only holds a programme for a week after airing. No ads on the beeb so good for a weekly download to make up the series. I will have to look up Stephen Baxter's book that ewahl recommended.......sounds good.
  8. Subscribers can look fooooooooooooooooooooooooooooorward to the next one?
  9. So glad I could help, Lawrence! I have gotten a TON of help and advice from fellow modelers. Glad I could contribute just a bit. Good luck with the model! Gary
  10. Last week
  11. the leeching continues: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/146941-issue-206-contest-issue-mailed/
  12. Holy smokes brother. From the finish on the disco ball, to the optics on top of the rotorhead, and your weathering. Awesome! I built this model about three years ago. It turned out pretty good, but not as fantastic as yours. By the way, your glass is the best i’ve ever seen on this model. Christopher
  13. Exceptional job on that Gil, especially given the type of plastic! Way to go man!
  14. Hey, Lawrence. Not sure if this is what you're after or not: https://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/the-cutty-sark-instruction-sheets/ I hope it helps! Gary
  15. I am getting closer to finishing the E-2C 2000 conversion to the E-2D. Using some high resolution photos I was able to make a decal set for the aircraft. After doing some detail painting and adding decals from the kit I added the custom decals. After the decals were applied I let the Microsol do its job. The kit decals worked great. Only issue is that the kit decals for the walkways were a little larger/longer than the spaces they go on the aircraft. The worst area was the walkways between the tails. I ended up cutting out a section in the middle of each decal so that the edges would line up correctly. The entire aircraft was then sprayed with a gloss coat to seal the decals. Next is the final assembly adding the pylon and saucer, the cable rigging, and the clear parts (wingtip lights, fuselage lights, and cockpit windows. Should have it completed next week. More photos in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-northrop-grumman-e-2d-conversion/
  16. I have a Cutty Sark kit missing the plans. I believe that it is a very old kit as I cannot locate it in the downloads section of Revel. If you have a set and can help me or maybe you have downloaded them and would be able to forward me a copy I would be forever in your dept! THE KIT # IS 0399 Thank you
  17. Great looking model. the metallic paints come across well. Clare
  18. Great job on that finish Bill. Classic Scheme. Two thumbs up. Bill
  19. Here are some more photos of the build. The model was pretty easy to paint; overall MM Acryl Army Helo Green (FS 34031) on the outside and on the inside I used Tamiya NATO Black. Other shades were also used to break up the overall colors. The inside of the engine area was MM Yellow Zinc Chromate with a mist coat of fluorescent green from the square bottle in the transmission area. Adding the Zactomodels exterior set really helped the kit also. So, here they are... I used Lite Bright pegs for the screens on the IP. I wired up the Disco Ball and the tail area. On the rotor, I placed dots of red, blue, green and yellow with a toothpick for the maintenance indicators. I also made umbilicals from the fuselage to the weapon stations. After everything was together I gave it a dry brushing with Tamiya weathering powders.
  20. Thanks, Gil. That glass was the hardest part of the build. Had to hack up some interior things to make it fit just so. Some more pics to come. I forgot how to post them...haven't finished anything in a while. I really enjoyed building this one. Bill
  21. Nice work! And kids who look at it will only see a cool model of an X-Wing... About the same time Revell moved their molding to a the facility in China, their plastic also became softer--probably more vinyl and/or regrind added to the mix. That's the main reason that if I want a vintage Monogram kit, I buy the earliest issue I can find in order to get that sublime Monogram styrene...
  22. Nice! That windshield glass is amazing, and helo glass is one of the toughest things. Congrats, and thanks for sharing! GIL
  23. Here is the Kiowa Warrior from MRC. Great build. Very wordy directions, but comprehensive. I also used the Zactomodels exterior details. I added some seat belts, a CAR-15 on the IP.
  24. Finished this one up today for our club build. This is the Revell snap-tite 1/48-ish kit, which I was overall impressed with. The kit fits VERY well, with no slop in the parts once they're in place. The cockpit is nicely detailed and the canopy crystal clear. The parts break down on lines that match paint lines, so not much in the way of seams is visible when completed. The X-wing can be open or closed. The only oddity is that the nose gear can be retracted, but there's no option but on or off the model for the main gear, which means I left them off for the "in flight" attitude on the stand. The stand is from the spares box, and NOT in the kit. The only major thing I did was rebuild the wing cannons with plastic, aluminum, and steel tubing. Even though the kit ones came cradled in a clear support box, they were still rather bent. Other than that, I painted and washed various details and put some belts on the kit seat. The only complaint I can make on the kit is the type of plastic used to mold it. It's somewhere between rubber and styrene....the mold lines are tough to scrape off (much like a car kit tire) and tubular parts cannot be simply bent back straight. They're also harder to drill through, the plastic being more "gummy" during drilling. That said, it IS workable, but doesn't react like your typical injected styrene does. The kit doesn't come with a pilot, and is meant to display on its gear. However, that makes opening the wings up problematic, as the main gear is then canted awkwardly. The kit has some nicely molded details between the wings I wanted to show, so I grabbed a stand from the spares box and put it in flight attitude. By the way...the kit has a gimmick, in that the cockpit is molded as part of a sound box/device. If you push down on the R2 it'll play cannon fire! Anyway, this was a quick build, yielding a cool looking model that allows me to have one to put in our club display at the local library next January, coinciding with the release of the new Star Wars movie around Dec/Christmas. Comments/questions/critiques welcome! GIL
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